Coroplast - Reinstallation Notes

[howson]

Many of the regular readers of this forum know I removed the coroplast weeks ago to execute a multitude of maintenance and upgrades on my 315RLTS. Those projects are complete, so it was time to reinstall.

First...a mea culpa. The coroplast was so hard to remove due to the mods I'd already added to the trailer and with the MORryde suspension I ended up cutting the coroplast into four sections. I knew when I did it I'd have to figure out how to reinstall (or replace it).



What I ended up doing is using lattice dividers and caps to join the coroplast together. The pieces are exactly the correct dimension for the coroplast.



This is a decent shot of how well the divider fits:



It's quite the wrestllng match getting that divider into position, though, I found the caps easier to install, and if I was doing it again I'd have a piece of aluminum that spans the two caps so I could screw them together.

If that's not clear, the caps would be installed on each side of the coroplast so the closed end of the caps are touching. Then an aluminum piece that can be screwed into both caps from underside to tie them together.

Since I didn't have that aluminum piece, I used "permanent" Gorilla tape to seal two caps together. So two of the coroplast joints I cut are reassembled using a lattice divider and the front cut (seam) is joined with lattice caps and tape.

The picture below is the front (cap) seam after being sealed with tape.




Due to the many upgrades and changes there were multiple holes to fill in the coroplast. Cleaning the coroplast with alcohol and ensuring it was dry seemed to allow the "permanent" gorilla tape to stick quite well. The most heavily taped area is around the new drain.


Still some minor work to do on the back edge (where it was originally stapled to the trailer) but otherwise all the projects are complete. I hope to do a "test tow" tomorrow afternoon. Will probably go to the CAT scale and back.

Howard

[Cate&Rob]

Nicely done Howard . . . a clever solution!

Rob

[Superduty]

[QUOTE=Cate&Rob;n22728]Nicely done Howard . . . a clever solution!

Rob

I agree on the Lattice, cleaver solution. I just might pick up a few, since Howard has this on my mine also, for cleaning up the mess under the coroplas.

More important. Howard, what’s under the car cover?

[steve&renee]

...

If that's not clear, the caps would be installed on each side of the coroplast so the closed end of the caps are touching. Then an aluminum piece that can be screwed into both caps from underside to tie them together.

...

Since I didn't have that aluminum piece, I used "permanent" Gorilla tape to seal two caps together. So two of the coroplast joints I cut are reassembled using a lattice divider and the front cut (seam) is joined with lattice caps and tape.

...

Still some minor work to do on the back edge (where it was originally stapled to the trailer) but otherwise all the projects are complete.

Questions questions questions:

1. Did you do the job by yourself (one handed), or did you need Fran's help? Results look great -- no sagging. What would you say was the key to that success?

2. I think you're saying that you've decided that if you did it again, you'd use only caps, not dividers. Yes? If no, I'm not at all clear when you use a cap and when you use a divider. Please clarify.

3. On my rig, the coroplast is screwed into the the longitudinal frame members. Was yours attached that way, and is it still? If so, I assume you couldn't use the original screw holes, so you must have had to take great care to avoid gas lines, etc. Screwing new holes into the frame must have been a bear. Pilot holes?

4. "Permanent" Gorilla tape. How long to you guess before the seams have to be re-taped? I'd give it two years, tops.

Fantastic job. Congrats!

-Steve

[howson]

1. Did you do the job by yourself (one handed), or did you need Fran's help? Results look great -- no sagging. What would you say was the key to that success?

There is some sagging/bulging in some areas--the coroplast is not "perfect" but certainly acceptable and will fulfill it's function.

I had Fran help with one section as the hydraulic brake lines were unsecured. As I was tugging and wrestling to get the piece into position I didn't want to accidentally damage those lines, so her job was to watch them and yell "STOP!" if the the coroplast snagged on them.

Key to success? Does the colorful language I learned riding in the back of a USAF maintenance truck with a bunch of maintainers count as a "key"?

On a serious not (as with most things in my life) I've never been the sharpest knife in the drawer but I'll keep sawing away until whatever I'm trying to cut gets done...in other words persistence and the willingness to make a mistake, undo/fix the mistake, and try again.

2. I think you're saying that you've decided that if you did it again, you'd use only caps, not dividers. Yes? If no, I'm not at all clear when you use a cap and when you use a divider.

Yes, I'd use the caps. The divider worked great but what a royal pain to get it into position.

"A picture is worth a thousand words"--so hopefully the below explains how I'd do it now (no tape). Note the below is untested/unproven, so anyone that tries it will be the beta tester!

3. On my rig, the coroplast is screwed into the the longitudinal frame members. Was yours attached that way, and is it still? If so, I assume you couldn't use the original screw holes, so you must have had to take great care to avoid gas lines, etc. Screwing new holes into the frame must have been a bear. Pilot holes?

Yes, yes, and no--I used the original holes. For the few places I added screws, the self-tapping screws work great as long as you're willing to have white-hot metal shavings rain down on you as they are cutting into the frame rail. (Ouch!)

4. "Permanent" Gorilla tape. How long to you guess before the seams have to be re-taped? I'd give it two years, tops.

No disagreement from me. If I don't have to pull down the coroplast for any reason for two years I'll be more than happy to apply new tape at that time. It's just one more thing to inspect, just like the roof, tires, etc.

[howson]

More important. Howard, what’s under the car cover?

My '17 Ford Superduty DRW. The pine trees behind my house are awful, so I cover the truck to protect it. The Florida sun is rough on vehicles, too. (The truck is rarely driven except when we're out in the camper.)

[Superduty]

My '17 Ford Superduty DRW. The pine trees behind my house are awful, so I cover the truck to protect it. The Florida sun is rough on vehicles, too. (The truck is rarely driven except when we're out in the camper.)

Well, my eyes behold. Now that you said that, I can see the truck.
Here, I thought you had another toy.

[Randall Lee]

The dealer cut a U shape hole in the corplast and taped it shut, lasted about 200 miles. Redid it with with a tape made for patching corplast it lasted about 500 miles before pulling loose.Next try was alum flat stock 2" wide glued and sheet metal screws on the up side of corpast then started at the back of the cut and screwed the flap to the alum and taped over the cut.
Still holding 6000 miles later.Like the idea of the lattice splice. Good job.

[ncitro]

howson

I may have missed this but how did the very back go with the staples? I pulled mine down and did a little work, but the majority is going to have to wait for another time. I reattached a few of the screws to get it up so I could move the rig around a little for a few other projects, but my back is out now so finishing it is on hold. I am hoping my air stapler will work for reattaching the back.

[howson]

howson

I may have missed this but how did the very back go with the staples? I pulled mine down and did a little work, but the majority is going to have to wait for another time. I reattached a few of the screws to get it up so I could move the rig around a little for a few other projects, but my back is out now so finishing it is on hold. I am hoping my air stapler will work for reattaching the back.

I didn't staple it back in place. I cut off a very short piece (lengthwise) so there is a slight gap between the back trim and the end of the coroplast. I taped this area up, too.

It survived the first 118 mile "test tow" with no issues, but Randall Lee 's cautionary tale is sobering.

As always, if I experience unintended or negative results over time I'll update this thread.

Howard

Note: The honey wagon is not hung that low when towing!

[ncitro]

I didn't staple it back in place. I cut off a very short piece (lengthwise) so there is a slight gap between the back trim and the end of the coroplast. I taped this area up, too.

It survived the first 118 mile "test tow" with no issues, but Randall Lee 's cautionary tale is sobering.

As always, if I experience unintended or negative results over time I'll update this thread.

Howard

Note: The honey wagon is not hung that low when towing!

Good thoughts thank you. In toying with trying to hang my grey tote underneath, in front of the spare, but I think it might be too tall. I’m leery about the ladder carrying it.

[steve&renee]

...

It's quite the wrestllng match getting that divider into position, though, I found the caps easier to install, and if I was doing it again I'd have a piece of aluminum that spans the two caps so I could screw them together.

If that's not clear, the caps would be installed on each side of the coroplast so the closed end of the caps are touching. Then an aluminum piece that can be screwed into both caps from underside to tie them together.

Since I didn't have that aluminum piece. . .

...

Ah ha! I found 3/16" x 2" x 8' aluminum bars at a local metal distributor that offers a Will Call service. No shipping charges! The bar is thicker than the junk you can buy from the big box stores, and around 30% cheaper. I'm tickled.

The remaining question I have is at what point should I attempt to join the cut coroplast seam with the caps and aluminum bar. I assume I should start at the coroplast end furthest from the cut seam, lifting the coroplast and inserting the self-tapping screws into existing holes, working my way forward toward the cut seam. Once I've got the bulk of the coroplast raised up and fastened all the way up to the seam, I insert a cap on one side of the seam and fasten the aluminum bar to that cap, then insert a cap onto the other side of the seam, use my third hand to hold the two caps together, and use my left foot to fasten the aluminum bar to the remaining cap. Is that about right?

Sounds so easy a caveman could probably do it, so I should be fine.

-Steve

[howson]

Ah ha! I found 3/16" x 2" x 8' aluminum bars at a local metal distributor that offers a Will Call service. No shipping charges! The bar is thicker than the junk you can buy from the big box stores, and around 30% cheaper. I'm tickled.

The remaining question I have is at what point should I attempt to join the cut coroplast seam with the caps and aluminum bar. I assume I should start at the coroplast end furthest from the cut seam, lifting the coroplast and inserting the self-tapping screws into existing holes, working my way forward toward the cut seam. Once I've got the bulk of the coroplast raised up and fastened all the way up to the seam, I insert a cap on one side of the seam and fasten the aluminum bar to that cap, then insert a cap onto the other side of the seam, use my third hand to hold the two caps together, and use my left foot to fasten the aluminum bar to the remaining cap. Is that about right?

Sounds so easy a caveman could probably do it, so I should be fine.

-Steve

Steve,
Funny you should ask this question as I've got my coroplast torn apart (again) to fix the kitchen gray valve (again). I had a heck of a time getting the "H" channel holding the two pieces of coroplast together out so I could peak up to find the issue with the gray valve. On a side note but applicable, the (exterior, extra heavy duty) Gorilla Tape held up perfectly without any evidence of weakening or pulling away from the camper. Once I had all the tape off it still took some effort, though, to get that "H" channel out.

Since I have the "H" and the tape held up so well, I'll be putting it back together the same way it came apart once I finish repairing the dump valve.

Please post back (on this thread) with how it goes with securing the two "caps" with the aluminum. (I sure hope it works!)

Howard