Flex Mend Will Not Stick to my Solitude Under Belly - Not Coroplast

[paul_maia]

My Solitude came off the line in early February. We spent 3.5 hours on the PDI, but I didn't crawl under her and look up or we would have seen the mess. Looks like GD cut two holes (about 1 foot square) in the belly material to access the areas around the hydraulic tracks on the dining table slide. One hole was under the forward slide track and the other hole was in the section just aft of the rear track. They could reach through the support and access the area around the rear track.

Looks like a chunk of insulation was removed (or pushed around to get it away from the track) and the holes taped up with "Flex Mend". I found the tape on the ground when I went to grease the suspension, just a couple of days ago.

One hole was closer to the wheels. In the rain (which I guess they encountered on the delivery to Louisiana), it splashed water up into the belly and saturated the insulation. I removed the wet insulation and repacked the area with new insulation (through the hole).

Figuring that they just did a poor tape job, I re-taped it with some 6" Flex Mend... applying more than adequate pressure to get it to stick.



It looked real good for about 8 hours. As you can see, it is peeling off. And if pressed back again, falls instantly. The back of the tape (where it fell) is no longer sticky, when touched.



This closeup shows little whiskers all over it. That fuzz is likely the reason the tape doesn't stick.



Here is an edge view.


Any ideas on what tape to use now?

Paul

[Country Campers]

Paul

That seems to be a new type of underbelly covering that I have not seen before. I would suggest that you call Grand Design Customer Service and explain the situation , have you vin ready and also send them the pictures that you have posted here and get there remedy for fixing this. I am not sure why there would be holes cut in those areas , the may have had a slide issue or jack issue that needed attention. I hope they will have a fix for you. The underbelly seems "hairy" as you have described and I am not sure what will stick to it. Please keep us posted on the outcome and if you need further assistance.

Brian

[Jlawles2]

I wonder if you can anchor a plastic strip to the good stuff with fender washers and screws leaving an overhang in the hole. Then the patch could be screwed to the plastic overhanging the hole.

[ncitro]

My Solitude came off the line in early February. We spent 3.5 hours on the PDI, but I didn't crawl under her and look up or we would have seen the mess. Looks like GD cut two holes (about 1 foot square) in the belly material to access the areas around the hydraulic tracks on the dining table slide. One hole was under the forward slide track and the other hole was in the section just aft of the rear track. They could reach through the support and access the area around the rear track.

Looks like a chunk of insulation was removed (or pushed around to get it away from the track) and the holes taped up with "Flex Mend". I found the tape on the ground when I went to grease the suspension, just a couple of days ago.

One hole was closer to the wheels. In the rain (which I guess they encountered on the delivery to Louisiana), it splashed water up into the belly and saturated the insulation. I removed the wet insulation and repacked the area with new insulation (through the hole).

Figuring that they just did a poor tape job, I re-taped it with some 6" Flex Mend... applying more than adequate pressure to get it to stick.



It looked real good for about 8 hours. As you can see, it is peeling off. And if pressed back again, falls instantly. The back of the tape (where it fell) is no longer sticky, when touched.



This closeup shows little whiskers all over it. That fuzz is likely the reason the tape doesn't stick.



Here is an edge view.


Any ideas on what tape to use now?

Paul

Over the years I’ve made a free cuts in mine and used the below linked tape with great success over thousands of miles. I have the older style, but it might be worth a try.

4x25 Mobile Home Polyethylene Underbelly Repair Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V974DKG...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[Jlawles2]

The problem with the new stuff they are using is its almost felt feeling in texture. Unless the tape has a gooey layer like roof patching, its likely to only stick for a short time.

[flyfshrockies]

Our 2021 2600RB has the new type of underbelly covering. I would be quite interested in a product that would stick also. You never know what could happen and it would be nice to have a product that would stick should a repair be needed.

Dave

[paul_maia]

I have an email (with pictures) into GD. We will see what comes of it.

[paul_maia]

Ok, so I got a reply from GD on the tape to use on this new underbelly,

The GD employee said I needed to use EternaBond tape. The underside of my Solitude is black, yours too, heck all of them are black... So, you guessed it, GD sent a roll of 3" off-white EternaBond tape. No instructions, no hints... Thanks GD.

I wouldn't put white tape on the black belly bottom. For a top-of-the-line 5th wheel, GD should NOT have sent white, but they did. I will save the white tape for any needed roof repairs. I ordered a roll of 4" black EternaBond tape.
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is an EtrnaBond primer that should be used on less than ideal material. I think this new belly material qualifies. The Primer lists itself as an "Adhesive and Surface Conditioner".
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-OP...18Z570D3Y91SEJ

Once I got everything needed for the repair, I did some testing. I didn't have any of this belly material to play with, so I used some wood and some rough cardboard for testing. The instructions for the primer say to apply the tape when the primer surface is tacky. Since we are working over our head, I waited a little longer to allow it to dry a little past the Tacky point. What I found, is if you put the tape in the Primer while any of it is still wet (puddled), the tape will not stick very well in that area. This is roof repair tape, so this would likely be fine on the roof, where gravity is on your side.

What I found from the testing, is that the smoother the surface, the better it stuck.

This belly material seems to be a layer of a Coroplast-like material with a reflective layer on the inside and this fuzzy layer on the exposed side.

The 2 holes they cut in the belly material are 3 sided flaps.There were 2 metal beams behind one flap and the other had one beam. These beams helped support the flap during the repair. I had previously prepared the holes by using some 18 gauge nails, pushed into the edge of the Coroplast part of the belly material. I alternated the nails on one side, then the other, to kind-of lock flap closed and the the edges together. Then I used a narrow bead of black RTV sealant to seal the seam. The silicone dried for a day before any tape was applied. The previous tape left glue residue on the surface.

The bead of silicone is why I didn't think 3" would be wide enough. If you seal the seam with silicone, make the silicone bead as narrow/flush as you can. The tape DOES NOT stick to Silicone.

Here is what i did:

- I used an 80-grit sanding sponge and one of those 1/4" thick sanding pads. I used these back and forth to get as much of the fuzz and glue residue off of the surface as I could. I only sanded where the 4" tape was going to go. I used a 2-foot shop fan to blow the dust away from me while working.
When this is done, it looked like all of the fuzz was gone, but many are still there. I couldn't see the fuzz until I sprayed the primer... too late to sand it some more. I sanded each about 10 minutes. Maybe I should have sanded it even longer?

- I measured/cut each piece of tape (3 for each hole). Peeling the backing from the tape is a challenge, so I used a pointed razor-blade-knife to get under the clear backing and peeled back about 2-inches of one corner. The tape adhesive is VERY sticky (like a sticky mouse trap), so make sure it lays flat. If two parts of the adhesive get together, it may be a challenge to separate.

- I sprayed the sanded areas with the primer. I sprayed several light coats, like painting with a rattle can. I used enough to get it into the surface. Make sure to leave no puddles of glue. If you end up with a glue puddle, you should wait for the puddles to dry before applying the tape.

- BEFORE applying the tape and while the primer is still a little tacky, I used my finger to lightly pass over the surface to get the remaining whiskers to lay flat in the primer. I waited until the adhesive was mostly dry.

- I peeled off the tape backing and started applying the tape from one end of the seam, pressing the tape into the adhesive. I did the sides of the flap first and then the end last.

- I used my fingernail to slide back and forth over the tape surface, to press the tape firmly into the belly material/adhesive. I paid close attention to make sure that the tape edge was securely applied.

It has been a day and it looks just like it did when i finished it. I checked the edges to make sure the tape was firmly affixed. It looks like this may be a winner.

Now, what to do with the 6" x 180' roll of Belly Repair tape I kept from the previous RV.
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Shiel...0313217&sr=8-2

[Cate&Rob]

paul_maia
Hi Paul

Thanks for the detailed "R&D" report. This will be very valuable for others who will inevitably be making this same repair. This is exactly how this owners technical forum is supposed to work! .

Rob