Bowed awning and striped back channel screws repair

[Yoda]

Thank you Keith,

I've seen where GDRV are using rivets in making these repairs as well.

Jim

I have never liked rivets for this.
One you don't know if they expanded correctly
Two if they pull out you have a huge hole
Three - it you ever need to remove - what a pain to drill out!

With a screw you know if it pulled tight - same for plus nut. And easy to remove if you need to replace something.
Just my 02
Keith

[Guest]

I have never liked rivets for this.
One you don't know if they expanded correctly
Two if they pull out you have a huge hole
Three - it you ever need to remove - what a pain to drill out!

With a screw you know if it pulled tight - same for plus nut. And easy to remove if you need to replace something.
Just my 02
Keith

Agree this is a quick fix. There are spinner type rivets as well but drilling out the steel shank would be frustrating. The best way I can think to remove a rivet is to grind off the head and push it into the wall.

Jim

[howson]

Yoda

Resurrecting an old thread (but one well worth reading).

As you know, I'm researching how to reinstall my awning. ( For any readers not aware see the saga documented in https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...ults-it-s-ugly .) After reading this thread I have a few questions. I hope you can remember back to when you did this!

1) Have the PlusNuts held up over the long term?

2) I can't quite figure out why there were new holes drilled in your sidewall--was that to align the awning or add more screws (to hold it more securely)?

3) Given that my awning was working fine, is it as simple as inserting the plusnuts into the existing holes in my camper's sidewall, seal with the butyl, and reinstall the awning? (I realize the gutter must be up first, and I'll have to slide the material into the gutter prior to securing the awning to the camper.)

4) Do you still recommend the S10P320 Plusnut as documented in post 13?

5) Is there a reasonably strong alternative to the steel Plusnut component? (Not crazy about putting a steel component in the wall.)

6) Why was epoxy required in some holes--was that for holes no longer used or was it required prior to the Plusnut installation? (A little fuzzy on what was used where and why.)

And thanks again for taking the time to post the excellent documentation in this thread--very helpful as I prepare to basically do the same work.

Howard

P.S. While this post is addressed to Keith, I'd welcome inputs from other knowledgeable forum members!

[howson]

Yoda -- continuing to research and found another of your threads here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...ws-on-exterior

colan also recommends Plusnuts or a "rivet nut". (Not 100% sure what that is.)

I also just spotted Cate&Rob process in post 7 of that thread. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...=4561#post4561 I again am a bit confused on your process--did you enlarge / fill with epoxy / etc as outlined in Rob's post or just install the Plusnut? I also just read where Rob mentioned to use a stainless version for the exact reason I am concerned about. (Post 16.)

Lots of info in that thread, but thought I'd keep the conversation in this one or it will get confusing.

[Yoda]

Yoda

Resurrecting an old thread (but one well worth reading).

As you know, I'm researching how to reinstall my awning. ( For any readers not aware see the saga documented in https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...ults-it-s-ugly .) After reading this thread I have a few questions. I hope you can remember back to when you did this!

1) Have the PlusNuts held up over the long term?

2) I can't quite figure out why there were new holes drilled in your sidewall--was that to align the awning or add more screws (to hold it more securely)?

3) Given that my awning was working fine, is it as simple as inserting the plusnuts into the existing holes in my camper's sidewall, seal with the butyl, and reinstall the awning? (I realize the gutter must be up first, and I'll have to slide the material into the gutter prior to securing the awning to the camper.)

4) Do you still recommend the S10P320 Plusnut as documented in post 13?

5) Is there a reasonably strong alternative to the steel Plusnut component? (Not crazy about putting a steel component in the wall.)

6) Why was epoxy required in some holes--was that for holes no longer used or was it required prior to the Plusnut installation? (A little fuzzy on what was used where and why.)

And thanks again for taking the time to post the excellent documentation in this thread--very helpful as I prepare to basically do the same work.

Howard

P.S. While this post is addressed to Keith, I'd welcome inputs from other knowledgeable forum members!

Howard
Everything is holding well. I have tighten each hex screw over time a smidge as the butyl compresses. The new holes were drilled for new new fasten per the manufacturer instructions. GD only used about 3/4 of the holes they should have. Look up the awning instructions, and check what GD did. I only used the plus nuts on the striped holes. The rest I used the stainless steel screws one size larger than original. I hope I remembered everything. One tip - when installing the plus nuts be sure you have pressure pushing it in the hole when installing and do it slowly - don't rush.

Let me know if you have other questions
Keith

[Yoda]

Yoda -- continuing to research and found another of your threads here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...ws-on-exterior

colan also recommends Plusnuts or a "rivet nut". (Not 100% sure what that is.)

I also just spotted Cate&Rob process in post 7 of that thread. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...=4561#post4561 I again am a bit confused on your process--did you enlarge / fill with epoxy / etc as outlined in Rob's post or just install the Plusnut? I also just read where Rob mentioned to use a stainless version for the exact reason I am concerned about. (Post 16.)

Lots of info in that thread, but thought I'd keep the conversation in this one or it will get confusing.

A rivet nut is basically the same as a plus nut - you just use a heavy duty rivet gun to install. Just verify the length of the rivet needed for the wall thickness. I tried several way to repair the striped screws, including the epoxy and filler in the original hole as Rob recomended. I discovered the epoxy plug spun when installing the screw/bolt. The only time I enlarged the hole was to install the plus nut, and I used a drill bit a fraction smaller than recommend as I did not have the correct size. The plus nut was a hard fit, but using a palm slap it inserted. I also drill the holes for the new screws undersized. I thought it was better for the screw to cut the threads in the backing plate. This worked well.

Again ask away if questions. You can always experiment on one hole like I did - just don't oversize it. - don't ask on that one

Keith

[Jbandtbone]

Yoda

Resurrecting an old thread (but one well worth reading).

As you know, I'm researching how to reinstall my awning. ( For any readers not aware see the saga documented in https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...ults-it-s-ugly .) After reading this thread I have a few questions. I hope you can remember back to when you did this!

1) Have the PlusNuts held up over the long term?

2) I can't quite figure out why there were new holes drilled in your sidewall--was that to align the awning or add more screws (to hold it more securely)?

3) Given that my awning was working fine, is it as simple as inserting the plusnuts into the existing holes in my camper's sidewall, seal with the butyl, and reinstall the awning? (I realize the gutter must be up first, and I'll have to slide the material into the gutter prior to securing the awning to the camper.)

4) Do you still recommend the S10P320 Plusnut as documented in post 13?

5) Is there a reasonably strong alternative to the steel Plusnut component? (Not crazy about putting a steel component in the wall.)

6) Why was epoxy required in some holes--was that for holes no longer used or was it required prior to the Plusnut installation? (A little fuzzy on what was used where and why.)

And thanks again for taking the time to post the excellent documentation in this thread--very helpful as I prepare to basically do the same work.

Howard

P.S. While this post is addressed to Keith, I'd welcome inputs from other knowledgeable forum members!

Howard,
To answer some of your questions as far as my repairs from January 21. and after our 6 mo. trip out west and back over 12000 miles on Lillie Mae.
1) Plusnuts have held up very good as Keith mentioned minor tightening.
2) I did not add new fasteners as per the Awning manufactures installation instructions. Just repaired the striped ones from GD original installation process at the factory. The awnings rolled up better but, because of old worn/stretched out fabric and striped holes at the rollers, still needs some work.
3) I used the same Stainless steel plusnut inserts that, Keith used. But I used a 3/4 " S10-320 flange head machine screw, instead of 1", scared of running out of room. And I used the 17/64" drill bit and used a little sand paper on the inserts sharp edges to get a really good snug fit in most of the holes.
4&5) yes no sign of corrosion on the flange heads, haven't removed any to look for signs of moisture intrusion as of yet.
6) I did not use any epoxy to fill any of the bad holes for two reasons 1) still have to repair holes at the top where roller brackets on both awnings have rusted out holes from factory installed water protection that did not work. and 2) The areas that I repaired. I placed butyl rubber tape over the entire side area and the back of the awning brackets to seal out the moisture.

And now I'm going up to look at the gutters that you are posting about and see if this will work up there also. I thanks for the warning awning fabric / gutter attaching together.

John B.

After looking at the gutters and luckily since Lillie Mae is a 303rls, neither awning canvas is attached to the actual gutter. The front one is attached to similar gutter material w/ the bead slot. Also pic note the original material use to seal the fasteners. Very porous! looking to fix and remove. But I will have to say that under the flimsy covering over the fasteners and temp. staples showed no signs of moisture intrusion, no rust even on staples.