Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bowed awning and striped back channel screws repair

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Bowed awning and striped back channel screws repair

    Winds were calm today so I got a start on repairing my bowed awning. First you will find the information on the bowed awning here. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/grand-d...close-properly

    My first job was to repair the striped screws I found. GD used self tapping screws, while Dometic recommended #14 sheet metal screws. I am attaching the Dometic installation manual.
    installation_manual_64707.pdf
    I extended the awning part way so I could support the base using a ladder as screws were removed. I did one side at a time. I used S10P320 Plusnut-Flat Head 10-32 steel and the L845-1032 insulation tool from these folks. https://www.libertyeng.com/

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0162s.jpg Views:	1 Size:	105.2 KB ID:	5416
    Ladder supporting awning with back channel pulled away from the trailer. All 4 lower screws were striped and replaced with Plusnuts. Other side was the same

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0163s.jpg Views:	1 Size:	57.0 KB ID:	5417
    Stripped holes - I clean these up with a razor blade before installing the plusnuts. The smear you see is the old butyl tape. GD had used black foam sealers and gray butyl tape a various locations. Notice the seal did not go around or below the holes.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0164s.jpg Views:	1 Size:	65.3 KB ID:	5418

    Tool installing the plusnuts. On the back side the nuts deform creating a star pattern behind the backing material. The way the tool works is there is a threaded rod inserted into the plusnut, It is held tight to the trailer and while holding the hex key you use a crescent wrench to turn the nut that is against the brass colored spindle. As you turn the nut the rod is backed out causing the plusnut to expand. The first few turns are a bit tough, but the it eases up until it his home, then becomes very difficult to turn anymore. At that point you stop and then just turn the whole tool out of the plusnut.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Yoda; 10-17-2019, 11:01 AM.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

  • #2
    I also used black butyl rubber tape between the backing channel and the trailer to seal the new nut holes.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0166s.jpg
Views:	1374
Size:	118.2 KB
ID:	5420
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0165s.jpg
Views:	1332
Size:	140.5 KB
ID:	5421

    This tape is 2" wide and found on amazon

    Tomorrow I will start on placing the new screws to take the bow out of the awning.
    The winds picked up so I had to stop. So far the plus nuts repairs are holding very well. I can securely tighten then down.

    I should mention that the plusnuts take a 10-32 bolt, I got 1" 10-32 flat head stainless steel bolts and washers from Fastenall.

    More to come

    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

    Comment


    • #3
      Excellent documentation, Yoda . Thanks for taking the time to share this process with us.
      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

      2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

      Comment


      • #4
        OK - Day two
        Tools you will need
        9/64 and 17/64 drill bits (metal drilling)
        Painters tape and sharp marking pen
        Door shims or plastic wedges
        Butyl tape - for sealing holes.
        #14 Stainless steel screws
        Smallest most compact drill possible - so you don't need to disconnect strut - more on this later
        Good steady ladder
        NO WIND

        Previously I had installed the Plusnuts - now on to the new holes. First I used 2 existing holes just below the strut mounting point to the back channel. For the pilot hole I chose to go with the smallest drill bit where the #14 screws would bight. The reason behind this is as they worked into the hole they would deform and roll the thin metal backing providing for better grip. CAUTION - you do not need much pressure on the drill to get through the siding and metal backing plate - go slow and pulse the drill.
        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0167s.jpg Views:	0 Size:	35.5 KB ID:	5488
        Existing holes below strut

        I then measured from the holes below the strut to the top of the backing channel to determine where to place the next two sets of screws. Based on the bow I chose to go 3" above the notch and 4" below the notch. I did not place any screws at the notch as I was not sure of the clearance as the strut connection nests in at the point. I used painters tape inside the channel and marked the locations. I used the existing screw holes for the distance off the channel side, used a paint stick as a template. I also used a spring loaded punch to create divots for the pilot drill to start.
        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0169s.jpg Views:	0 Size:	50.1 KB ID:	5489
        Pilot holes 9/64 drill bit.

        OK I need to back up a bit. Unfortunately I don't have a small drill that takes standard bits. In the above picture is a strut that was in the way, so I removed the top connection by pulling the star washer and driving the pin out - now how bad can that bee - Right?

        DANGER do not do as I did here, below is why. Do not remove the strut pin until you have the lower arm locked very firmly in place. This lower arm is holding the roller tube.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0170s.jpg Views:	0 Size:	51.8 KB ID:	5490
        I did not shim under the connection to start and should have. It was a huge pain to get back in place until I shimmed it down and slid it back. Now on the right side arm is plastic channel covering the motor wiring. I removed the top cover piece and slid the lower back and moved the wiring to the side so it was not pinched. I then slid the strut out of the way to finish drilling.

        Drilling - please use use extra care.

        When doing the 9/64 pilot hole I went through both the back channel and the trailer side, The back channel is very soft as is the initial trailer siding, then you will hit the paper thin steel plate. It takes just a bit more effort. I recommend pulsing the drill as you drill so as not to plunge too deep. I then drilled out the holes on the backing channel to 17/64 for the screws to fit through. This is the size of the existing holes.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0171s.jpg Views:	0 Size:	71.4 KB ID:	5491
        First side done. In the picture is the locking handle/knob I mention that needs to be very tight on the lower strut before removing the strut pin.

        Tip - after drilling the holes I inserted the #14 screw part way - to per-thread the hole and then removed the screws and moved on to the butyl tape install. to get the butyl tape in, all screws below must be backed off. I then used two door shims to move the backing channel away far enough to place a pre-cut piece of butyl tape in place. once there pull the shims and everything should be good. Install the screws and gently pull them tight. Do this several times so the butyl tape can seal and compress.
        Last edited by Yoda; 10-18-2019, 04:59 PM.
        2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

        Comment


        • #5
          Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0175s.jpg Views:	0 Size:	59.5 KB ID:	5495
          The bow is gone on the right side. Surprisingly once this side was correct the left (door side) is closing further in.


          Now to back up a bit - how did I get the strut back in place. You can pull it far enough to one side to get shim material under the head and then slide it back in place. It took a small hammer gently banging on the shims to get it back in position. Once close I used a drift punch to get it lined up and re inserted the pin. I then reinstalled the star retaining washer after truing it up. I used a deep socket the the pin would just fit in to drive the star washer back in place. Sounds easy, but it was a big pain in the behind - thus my recommendation to find a drill that will work with the strut in place. Also it is critical to have the lower arm locked so it wont move, so tighten down the locking handle as far as you can to prevent the drum from moving in.

          Now on to the left arm
          Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0174s.jpg Views:	0 Size:	84.3 KB ID:	5496

          I was able to get the tape in, measurements made and holed drilled. Then the afternoon wind picked up and I had to get the awning in, which meant getting the strut back in place. The wind made it very difficult and I had the lower arm brace try and move in which made things worse. The flapping awning overcame the locking force. I was able to get my shims in place and finally got it back in position and closed before any damage. Now all I need is a calm morning to shim it out, get the butyl seals in place and tighten everything up.

          The last step will be repairing several stripped screws at the top bracket. However I cant get the plusnuts in as I cant pull the bracket away far enough. so I plan to epoxy some hardwood plugs in and then re drill the pilot holes.

          To be continued

          Any questions so far?
          Keith
          Last edited by Yoda; 10-18-2019, 07:15 PM.
          2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

          Comment


          • #6
            Day 3
            Not the warmest morning at 45 degrees, but winds were calm.
            BTW - not to self - get a better step ladder rated for my weight - old one get jittery when I am up high.

            As I previously got the holes drilled, I needed to install the butyl tape and get things screwed together.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0176s.jpg Views:	107 Size:	51.1 KB ID:	5514
            Using wood shims I was able to space the back channel far enough off the wall to insert the butyl tape. To get the channel to come away the lower 4 screws (plusnuts) were removed. However a word of caution is the channel will now move sideways a bit so be sure you lined up with the butyl tape, otherwise is is very difficult to re align the channel With the awning out there is a significant load at this point so be sure to have a set of shims as close to the strut connection point as you can.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0179s.jpg Views:	22 Size:	52.8 KB ID:	5515
            All butyl tape in place and screws installed and snugged up. I will need to go back later and do a bit of screw tightness adjustment as at this cool temperature the butyl tape does not flatten out as much as it can. Need a couple of good 80 degree days in the sun for it to fully set.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0181s.jpg Views:	22 Size:	58.1 KB ID:	5516

            Bow is gone !!!!!!!!!

            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0180s.jpg Views:	22 Size:	65.4 KB ID:	5517
            And awning closes correctly.
            Last edited by Yoda; 10-22-2019, 06:53 PM.
            2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

            Comment


            • #7
              Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0138s.jpg
Views:	1399
Size:	64.8 KB
ID:	5519Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0180s.jpg
Views:	1352
Size:	65.4 KB
ID:	5520
              Before and after pictures of the fix.

              My last step - once I have a new ladder will be to tackle fixing the striped screws in the top bracket. Given how it is installed and the fabric rail so close, I cant move it away far enough for the plusnust.

              So for now I am a happy camper
              Keith
              2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

              Comment


              • #8
                OK I had a chance to get one of the striped screws in the awning head works fixed today. Sorry for no pictures, but it was straight forward. The hole was 1/4"+dia (#14 stripped screw) by about 1 1/2 inch deep. I followed Rob's idea (with a twist) and used pick tool I had to remove some foam from behind the metal backing place - probably not more than 1/4 inch wider and went back a bit too to create a void behind the backing plate (think large marble void). Cate&Rob

                I had on hand several fluted hardwood dowels from my wood working projects and found one that fit loosely so epoxy would just get around the sides.I trimmed it to about 1 1/4 inch long so it fit flush with the trailer wall. I pre-drilled it with the 9/64 drill bit (held in vice) all the way through. lengthwise. I then inserted an eye screw on one end so I had a handle to insert it easier.

                Next step was mixing the fast setting epoxy (6 minutes) with some filler and filling the back of the void completely using a syringe. I had to do the mixing twice as a learning curve ( Note to self - go potty before mixing ) I then slipped the fluted dowel in place holding on to the eye screw. Epoxy did seep out around the dowel as I wanted. I wiped this up and used some butyl material to plug the outer hole in the bracket and gave it and hour to set. I was very close to the set time, so I was able to make sure the dowel was centered before plugging the hole.

                After the hour I removed the butyl plug and the eye screw and found the dowel stayed centered in the hole and was filled with epoxy. I then pre-drilled again(9/64) but only about 1/2 " in this time as the epoxy had filled into the center of the dowel. Then I just replaced the #14 galvanized self taping screw with a 1" hex head #14 stainless steel one. It tightened up well with no signs of stripping. Wind picked up again so I had to stop for the day. The rest should go faster. On the next one I am going to skip the dowel and go with just the thicken epoxy and see how it goes.

                BTW new ladder is nice. Heavy duty Werner fiberglass 6' on sale at my HD. Top has lots of places to put stuff. Makes work a lot easier - no wobble.
                2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Yoda View Post
                  On the next one I am going to skip the dowel and go with just the thicken epoxy and see how it goes.
                  Hi Keith,

                  Good to see that this project is progressing in the right direction . Great pictures and details . . . thanks !!

                  Make sure that the epoxy is well cured, particularly in cooler weather, before installing fasteners. Although it "sets" in a few minutes, full strength is not reached until maybe a day later.

                  Sometimes, coarse thread sheet metal screws will chip/crack the epoxy . . . depending on how much of what kind of filler you use. Also, removing/replacing/tightening these screws can cause them to work loose.

                  Another alternative is to drill and tap the epoxy plug for a coarse thread bolt or machine screw . . . such as 1/4-20 for this project. This will be just as strong and makes it much easier to tighten or remove the fastener if need be.

                  Rob

                  Cate & Rob
                  (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                  2015 Reflection 303RLS
                  2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                  Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                  Comment


                  • Yoda
                    Yoda commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks for the tip on the 1/4 20. As I have a tapping set I will give that a try. After and hour the epoxy was very hard - it chipped when drilling verses stringing out as I have had happen in the past when it is not cured. I agree on the cool weather slowing the cure. High in the 50 for the next few days, then supposed to hit 65 on Saturday. Ill start early. If I prep everything right it should go pretty fast. This time I will try and post a few pictures.

                • #10
                  Hi Keith,

                  It is interesting that I am working on some “boat repairs” that closely parallel what you are doing . . . as I read these posts. Some more “tips”. Surround the hole with “shipping tape”. Epoxy won’t stick to this. After you fill the hole, put a strip of this same tape across the hole. This will hold the epoxy in place until it cures. When you pull the top layer and the surrounding layers of tape, the remaining epoxy will be just in the hole and flush with the surrounding wall.

                  Rob
                  Cate & Rob
                  (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                  2015 Reflection 303RLS
                  2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                  Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                  Comment


                  • Yoda
                    Yoda commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Great tip - Thanks One dumb question - by shipping tape do you mean the brown reinforced paper stuff Amazon uses, or the clear plastic stuff? I know I will go to my corner now and put my pointy hat on.

                • #11
                  Originally posted by Yoda View Post
                  Great tip - Thanks One dumb question - by shipping tape do you mean the brown reinforced paper stuff Amazon uses, or the clear plastic stuff? I know I will go to my corner now and put my pointy hat on.
                  Hi Keith . . . the clear plastic stuff .

                  Rob
                  Cate & Rob
                  (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                  2015 Reflection 303RLS
                  2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                  Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    Originally posted by Yoda View Post
                    My first job was to repair the striped screws I found. I used S10P320 Plusnut-Flat Head 10-32 steel and the L845-1032 insulation tool from these folks.

                    Tool installing the plusnuts. On the back side the nuts deform creating a star pattern behind the backing material. The way the tool works is there is a threaded rod inserted into the plusnut, It is held tight to the trailer and while holding the hex key you use a crescent wrench to turn the nut that is against the brass colored spindle. As you turn the nut the rod is backed out causing the plusnut to expand. The first few turns are a bit tough, but the it eases up until it his home, then becomes very difficult to turn anymore. At that point you stop and then just turn the whole tool out of the plusnut.
                    Keith,
                    I am doing some research on the plusnut- flat head and I've got a quick question. Which Grip Range did you use for the Plusnut?
                    John and Teresa
                    "19" 2500 HD GMC Sierra Duramax SLT.
                    "17" 303RLS

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      Originally posted by Jbandtbone View Post

                      Keith,
                      I am doing some research on the plusnut- flat head and I've got a quick question. Which Grip Range did you use for the Plusnut?
                      Here you go:

                      Grip Range: .175-.320, Hole Size: .273-.278

                      Its in the description for the plusnut I specified above. S10P320
                      https://www.libertyeng.com/specialty...llhoff/s10p320

                      Easy to miss in the description. They did pull tight. BTW - I chose that size to not create too big a hole. I first considered 1/4" size, but the hole needed gets close to 1/2".

                      Hope this helps
                      Keith
                      2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        Originally posted by Yoda View Post

                        Here you go:

                        Grip Range: .175-.320, Hole Size: .273-.278

                        Its in the description for the plusnut I specified above. S10P320
                        https://www.libertyeng.com/specialty...llhoff/s10p320

                        Easy to miss in the description. They did pull tight. BTW - I chose that size to not create too big a hole. I first considered 1/4" size, but the hole needed gets close to 1/2".

                        Hope this helps
                        Keith

                        Yes it was easy to miss. I saw when I went back a second time. Thanks
                        John and Teresa
                        "19" 2500 HD GMC Sierra Duramax SLT.
                        "17" 303RLS

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          Keith and Rob,
                          I've finally got around to starting the repairs that have been mention in this thread. But first I would like to ask if there is any structural wall plans for my 303rls available for download. My # is in my profile. I was looking for the structural bracing behind the outside layer but the awning arm support was attracting the magnet to much to get a good feeling about what is there. I've gone over all of my fasteners on both of the awnings and most have been striped at installation and/or missed the support behind it in MO. So I want to ask is there a easy way to remove the FRTA from the arm assemblies without removing it from the awning rail? Just curious because after I practiced on the door holder, which was held on by two small screws and two rivets, of course the screws had pulled out and had rusted before and just a matter of time before the bottom rivets pulled out. The need for more room to install the plus-nuts and safety from winds. Didn't take a before picture should have, but if you enlarge you can see how the outside surface is cracked around the bottom two prior to installation. Still going to water proof it better. Any other suggestions would be welcomed on this endeavor.
                          John and Teresa
                          "19" 2500 HD GMC Sierra Duramax SLT.
                          "17" 303RLS

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X