12V Fridge replacement for Absorption

[AZMike]

I am seriously considering replacing my absorption fridge with a 12V compressor fridge. For those of you that have done this "upgrade", how did you deal with sealing or removing the fridge vents on the outside wall and roof? I was hoping that there was a kit available to accomplish this. I know that I can probably just leave the vents as they are, but last week we had such a severe thunderstorm, with the wind driving the rain into the curb side of the trailer, that the rain was being pushed into the roof vent so forcefully that the water was running into the drawers under the fridge and onto the floor. Thoughts?

[TucsonJim]

Since my refrigerator is in a slide, I didn't have a roof vent to deal with. I just taped up the side vents to keep cold drafts out. It's nice having the vents so I can access the back of the refrigerator if it ever needs service. But most of the time, I just pull them off to show other owners the compressor.

Jim

[Lonestar]

TucsonJim

Speaking of making the change, if a person does not have any type of solar power, will a 12 volt fridge last 7-8 hours (normal travel day) on a single lead acid battery? Naturally ambient temps would have some bearing on this, but just wondering the feasibility of making a conversion if no solar power available.

It doesn't seem like it would be a problem just to modify any of the current vents to seal and make them rain proof after installing the 12 vdc fridge.

[AZMike]

Since my refrigerator is in a slide, I didn't have a roof vent to deal with. I just taped up the side vents to keep cold drafts out. It's nice having the vents so I can access the back of the refrigerator if it ever needs service. But most of the time, I just pull them off to show other owners the compressor.

Jim

The side vent isn't really a problem. Like you said Jim, it allows for easy access to the rear of the fridge, and could simply be taped to seal it. It is really the roof vent where I'm looking for a solution. I guess I can just cover the opening with black Eternabond tape or something similar.

[ncitro]

AZMike Yeah mine is in the slide as well, so I did not have the roof to deal with. I did the tape thing for a while, but eventually had a piece of black plexiglass cut and then screwed it to the wall with butyl behind it. Stuck a piece of pink rigid foam in the wall opening first to insulate it a bit. Worked great. I did not do a write up, but hijacked Howards post here and put some pictures of my first attempt at great stuff and tape, and then the plastic covers. Post five here:

https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...fridge-install

For the roof, I would take the vent off, then see if I could lay a piece of marine plywood over it (maybe with pink foam glued to the other side) screw that down to the roof and then eternabond over the whole thing.

[AZMike]

Thanks ncitro . Your black plexiglass looks good! I will be replacing the fridge over the winter, but since I live in a townhouse the trailer has to sit in storage, which makes it difficult to work on. I may just leave the wall vent and seal it on the inside. I'm not sure I want to get that involved with the roof vent with jeopardizing the 18 year warranty on the TPO roof being one of my primary concerns.

[ncitro]

Thanks ncitro . Your black plexiglass looks good! I will be replacing the fridge over the winter, but since I live in a townhouse the trailer has to sit in storage, which makes it difficult to work on. I may just leave the wall vent and seal it on the inside. I'm not sure I want to get that involved with the roof vent with jeopardizing the 18 year warranty on the TPO roof being one of my primary concerns.

I personally would not worry too much about the roof warranty. It only covers the material not the labor which is by far and away the more expensive part. I'd focus more on doing it right and sealing it the best you can.

[Country Campers]

I would just remove the cover on the roof vent, top part comes off with a couple screws, and then tape or seal the hole shut and replace the top cover leaving it as stock. I would not remove the whole vent, you may want to go back someday to the absorption model, or someone else may.

Brian

[AZMike]

I would just remove the cover on the roof vent, top part comes off with a couple screws, and then tape or seal the hole shut and replace the top cover leaving it as stock. I would not remove the whole vent, you may want to go back someday to the absorption model, or someone else may.

Brian

I like this idea. Nice and simple. Thanks.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

TucsonJim

Speaking of making the change, if a person does not have any type of solar power, will a 12 volt fridge last 7-8 hours (normal travel day) on a single lead acid battery? Naturally ambient temps would have some bearing on this, but just wondering the feasibility of making a conversion if no solar power available.

It doesn't seem like it would be a problem just to modify any of the current vents to seal and make them rain proof after installing the 12 vdc fridge.

While traveling, the tow vehicle will supply the power to the fridge.