Solera Slide Topper Install - '19 315RLTS

[howson]

Got the first of the three slide toppers installed today. (Happy New Year!) A few notes worth passing on.

First and foremost, a shout out to "Adventure Rig" for their video from 2018. Their work gave me a few ideas that I incorporated into my install. I'll elaborate below. Adventure Rig's video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkvDE-aSh6Y

The bedroom slide on my '19 315RLTS requires a 90" topper. I decided to use Adventure Rig's idea of installing the rail upside down so the screws are hidden under the fabric. Butyl tape was utilized on the back of the rail. The top edge and all the screws were sealed with RVProFlex to guard against water penetration.

As shown in the picture below, my long level created the perfect gap between the closed slide and the minimum 3" gap recommended for the rail. Using the level made it relatively easy to install the rail. As also mentioned in Adventure Rig's video, I measured at least a dozen times before installing the rail's screws.

I kept the height of the rail at the minimum 3" so the least amount of material is exposed when the slide is in. That translates to (hopefully) less potential for damage while towing. There is plenty of clearance between the top of the slide flange and the material with the attachments installed in what the instructions call the "regular" position.



For the rail install, happily I hit something substantial with the leftmost and rightmost screws. All the other screws are into the exterior luan material. I couldn't apply any torque at all after the screws were seated (easy to sense by feel).

Hard to explain, but the hardware for the Solera I received is different from every installation video I can find online. I try to explain in the video below--I hope it makes sense. The new hardware configuration makes installation of the tube easy. Removing the snap rings, though, could be more "finger friendly". (Ouch!)

One item Adventure Rig did that I passed on was applying sealant to the back of the slide attachment plates. I used RVProFlex sealant on all the screw threads to seal the holes and that (IMHO) is sufficient.

I had one "oops" when I used an impact driver on the self-tapping screws provided to secure the arm tubes to the attachment plate. One hit from the driver after the bolt seated and the head popped off. I drilled it out and replaced it with a spare that (thankfully) was in the bag. (The red arrow in the pic below shows the extra bolt.) A stronger bolt, though, would be preferable. Bottom line--be very judicious when using any power tools on this project! I used my drill with the clutch set very light. I hand-seated all of the hardware.



What I didn't capture and is hard to explain is how the material (I suspect) bunched together while sliding it through the rail. I used a liberal amount of silicone lubricant, but I still had an issue.

The material that attaches to the slides through the rail (attached to the camper, not the slide) is itself wrapped around a small black tube, That combination is slipped through the the "C" channel of the rail. What I suspect happened is the material bunched together as it didn't stay fixed to the interior tube. (See? Hard to describe.) It's kind of like trying to put a second jacket on top of one you're already wearing--the sleeves bunch up. (Does that help?) I ended up with slight creases in the material that I couldn't quite get out. Wasn't worth the effort to uninstall and rework the material, but I'll be more aware of the issue when I install the kitchen and dinette slide toppers.





If there's anything else I discover during the install of the other two toppers I'll add to this thread. Otherwise, if you have any questions fire away.

-Howard

[Superduty]

Howard,
What are the black rectangular small stripes for on your slides?

Slide awning looks nice.

[howson]

Howard,
What are the black rectangular small stripes for on your slides?

Slide awning looks nice.

The black strips "grab" the wiper seals going in or out to ensure they flip.

[Superduty]

Hum. That explains it. I need to do it also. The lower slides I can grab by hand and adjust, but the Upper Slide isn’t as easy (303 5er).

Thanks

[howson]

Hum. That explains it. I need to do it also. The lower slides I can grab by hand and adjust, but the Upper Slide isn’t as easy (303 5er).

Thanks

Here's a full explanation of what I did: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...=8712#post8712

[howson]

Here's the manual for the Solera topper referenced in the first post: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0002641.pdf

[Taurus2415]

How do you apply slide seal conditioner to the top seal with the topper installed? Can it be temporarily removed to apply the conditioner and then put back?

[howson]

How do you apply slide seal conditioner to the top seal with the topper installed? Can it be temporarily removed to apply the conditioner and then put back?

I'm not going to try and remove the topper to condition the seal. IMO that has more potential for damage than not conditioning the seals.

Honestly, with the lack of exposure to the sun I don't expect to have to condition the top seal that's under the topper. I've never conditioned the inner wiper seals on my camper (they are an exact mirror of the outside seals) and they are fine.

It will be interesting to read what others do that have toppers. I hope they chime in.

[Country Campers]

I have slide toppers and do not using any type of conditioner on any of the slide seals. We had our previous TT for 9 years and it also had a topper and I never conditioned any of those seals with no ill effects. If I recall it is not recommended to use any type of conditioner on the seals , just keep them clean.

Brian

[howson]

Got the kitchen slide done today. I had a neighbor come over and help as the DW's task was to pull the fabric by the leading edge to avoid the bunching issue experienced with the bedroom slide. Very pleased with the results. The topper is 156" long. Note how the hardware just fit between the upper refrigerator vent and the slide flange. (*whew*)

[howson]

So now the problem.

The dinette slide's awning hardware is mounted where I need to put the slide topper hardware.

What I'm contemplating attempting is moving the awning arms down (as depicted by the arrow). I'll try to explain my thought process below--I'd definitely appreciate any comments or ideas I'm not considering.



1) I know from a sidewall drawing provided by GD for my 315RLTS that there is are external EGS (electro-galvinized steel) backer plates from the top to the bottom under both awning arms on the slide. Since the EGS is available from top to bottom, moving the arm down shouldn't be a problem as far as re-securing it. I'll install the slide topper, then reinstall the awning arms as far up as possible without touching the slide topper. (The topper is stationary and as thick as it will be when the slide is in.)

2) I don't anticipate having to move the awning fabric (it's "C" channel) or the LED light and electrical associated with the light. That channel is far enough inboard that I should be able to get the slide topper hardware into position. (I may have to shave off a bit of the awning channel, but it looks doable.) I do need to double-check the electrical associated with the awning as I believe it is near the door and didn't look when I was taking the pictures in this post. (It just dawned on me.)



There's also plenty of room for the arms to move down at the bottom edge.



3) The additional benefit of moving down the arms without moving the fabric is it will eliminate the channel currently created by how the arms and fabric are installed. There's a "V" that catches all kinds of foreign objects that don't slide off when the awning is extended. The fabric will face down instead of up with the change. The pic below is as the awning is currently installed.



Any thoughts?

-Howard

P.S. If anyone has contact info for a user who on a different forum went by the name "Wire Wrat" (he lives, or did live, in Fort Walton Beach) please pass on his info to me or let him know I'd like to talk with him. I seem to remember that he has a 315RLTS and has slide toppers.

Also, the pic below is from a 337RLS (very similar floorplan to my 315RLTS but is a 5vr) that didn't have the same problem I am having. The configuration shows a close approximation of what I'm contemplating doing to my trailer. (It's confounding how many different configurations you'll find on our trailers!)

[howson]

tdsmith0715 (Doug)--if you see this thread I'd sure like to know how you and Gloria mounted your slide topper on the dinette slide!

[Cate&Rob]

howson
I have been following this thread. Your installations look better than the ones done by my dealer at time of purchase. You have better slope to the fabric and it appears to have less sag.

WRT "conditioning" the seals. Based on advice from LCI techs (several years ago), I have never done this. According to this advice, the rubber in the seals has lubrication incorporated into the material. He demonstrated that the seals feel "soapy" to the touch. His advice was that any coating (even talcum powder) would leach this natural lubrication out of the seals. I have followed this advice and my 5 year old seals still seem fine. To be fair . . . I have subsequently heard other LCI reps advise to use both 303 or talcum powder. There are obviously a lot of different "official" perspectives on this .

Rob

[howson]

howson
I have been following this thread. Your installations look better than the ones done by my dealer at time of purchase. You have better slope to the fabric and it appears to have less sag.

WRT "conditioning" the seals. Based on advice from LCI techs (several years ago), I have never done this. According to this advice, the rubber in the seals has lubrication incorporated into the material. He demonstrated that the seals feel "soapy" to the touch. His advice was that any coating (even talcum powder) would leach this natural lubrication out of the seals. I have followed this advice and my 5 year old seals still seem fine. To be fair . . . I have subsequently heard other LCI reps advise to use both 303 or talcum powder. There are obviously a lot of different "official" perspectives on this .

Rob

Thanks--a compliment from you means a lot (to me).


I'd greatly appreciate your input regarding what I wrote in post #11. The dinette slide is going to be a challenge.

[Cate&Rob]

I'd greatly appreciate your input regarding what I wrote in post #11. The dinette slide is going to be a challenge.

Hi Howard,

I don't have an awning on my dinette slide. The (dealer installed) topper appears to be positioned on the slide flange trim just as you have done on the first installation. My toppers are much flatter than yours. In part because the slope of the roof limits how high the body rail can be above the slide and the orientation of the roller "hex" seems to have the roller positioned higher. The big problem on a 303 is getting the dinette topper to clear the awning arm. (Will you have this potential interference to consider ?) I have about 1/4" of clearance with both retracted, but the awning does not come out at exactly 90 to the wall, so the awning arm "kisses" the end of the topper as it goes past.

Rob