Removed warped Window Trim

[Cindy]

I had 2 of the fabric facing pieces warp, so I removed them. My fix is to use "L" brackets to reattach the facing pieces. If that's not successful I might try the 1 inch wire nails or just pull off all the side panels and cut the particle board off and just leave to 'topper' covering the roller blind. Using screws might be a better solution that the nailing brads that don't have a head. Or just forgo the side pieces....
Cindy

[boyscout]

I had 2 of the fabric facing pieces warp, so I removed them. My fix is to use "L" brackets to reattach the facing pieces. If that's not successful I might try the 1 inch wire nails or just pull off all the side panels and cut the particle board off and just leave to 'topper' covering the roller blind. Using screws might be a better solution that the nailing brads that don't have a head. Or just forgo the side pieces....
Cindy

On our 2018 310GK MOST of the trim pieces either fell off or were about to do that within the first year of modest and mostly-easy travel over highways. They were attached with a “pin nailer”, a device that shoots headless bits of very thin wire through the wood. Completely inadequate for the task, but easy for Grand Design because they don’t have to fill holes after they’ve “attached” the trim.

The first time I tried reattaching a piece of trim I used 1.5” or 2” finishing nails. It was surprisingly difficult to drive these through the hard wood trim pieces, and then they had to be inset with a punch and the holes filled and colored. I attached the rest with a proper 16 gauge finish nailer; an expensive solution if you don’t have or can’t borrow one but a heck of a lot easier to do. The small indented holes left by the finish nailer still await finishing. I know the pieces will now stay where they should be but still feel testy about having to do this work.

[Cindy]

On our 2018 310GK MOST of the trim pieces either fell off or were about to do that within the first year of modest and mostly-easy travel over highways. They were attached with a “pin nailer”, a device that shoots headless bits of very thin wire through the wood. Completely inadequate for the task, but easy for Grand Design because they don’t have to fill holes after they’ve “attached” the trim.

The first time I tried reattaching a piece of trim I used 1.5” or 2” finishing nails. It was surprisingly difficult to drive these through the hard wood trim pieces, and then they had to be inset with a punch and the holes filled and colored. I attached the rest with a proper 16 gauge finish nailer; an expensive solution if you don’t have or can’t borrow one but a heck of a lot easier to do. The small indented holes left by the finish nailer still await finishing. I know the pieces will now stay where they should be but still feel testy about having to do this work.

Hey Mark, this Spring is when I'm going to try to put the sides back on with the "L" & screws... but if it gets too frustrating & I think I can cut them off (leaving the top valance covering the roller blind) evenly (or find a handyman to assist) I'm not going to get ****** off about this... thanks again,
Cindy

[JBill9694]

On our 2018 310GK MOST of the trim pieces either fell off or were about to do that within the first year of modest and mostly-easy travel over highways. They were attached with a “pin nailer”, a device that shoots headless bits of very thin wire through the wood. Completely inadequate for the task, but easy for Grand Design because they don’t have to fill holes after they’ve “attached” the trim.

The first time I tried reattaching a piece of trim I used 1.5” or 2” finishing nails. It was surprisingly difficult to drive these through the hard wood trim pieces, and then they had to be inset with a punch and the holes filled and colored. I attached the rest with a proper 16 gauge finish nailer; an expensive solution if you don’t have or can’t borrow one but a heck of a lot easier to do. The small indented holes left by the finish nailer still await finishing. I know the pieces will now stay where they should be but still feel testy about having to do this work.

I love nailers and the new electric ones mean that you don't have to get an air compressor to operate them. If the cost verses the size of the job makes the nailer prohibitive I've had good luck pre-drilling the molding using a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail. I also like to try and find paneling nails that match or closely match the color of the wall/trim instead of countersinking, caulking, and (possibly) painting.

[Cindy]

Thanks all, appreciate your time
cindy