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  • #31
    Originally posted by ckreef View Post
    Sometime in the near future I'm going to do the same thing for the driver's side so I can install a dimmer knob to my front cap LED's.
    Nice work and documentation--thanks for posting.

    For controlled depth with a dremel tool, the Cutting Kit attachment shown below is another option (in addition to the cutoff wheel mentioned). Use the Cutting Kit with some sort of guide (wood, ruler, etc) and it is easy to get a straight line. (It's just a mini-router attachment for the Dremel.)

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Dremel 2.JPG
Views:	378
Size:	85.3 KB
ID:	18981


    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

    2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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    • #32
      Originally posted by ckreef View Post
      This tread is just wrong as it applies to the original question . The front storage board is paneling attached to a wooden frame using finishing nails and pin Staples. Although I believe it would be possible to take it off in one complete piece, removing it in sections should be much easier. Here is what I did:

      I wanted to get behind that panel on the passenger side so I could install a TST tpms relay/extender to the front marker light.

      I located the first vertical stud away from the side wall. About 24". I popped a vertical line 1/2 way across the stud. I then used a dremel tool with cutoff wheel to cut through the paneling but not into the stud. I used a box cutter to make the final cut near the floor. Using a small and large pry bar I carefully pried the trim pieces and paneling off the studs. It wasn't hard you just need to do it gently so you don't bust the paneling.

      Click image for larger version Name:	fsremove1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	139.6 KB ID:	18975

      You then need to push from the backside to get the finishing nails and pin staples out of the paneling. I installed my relay/extender then reattached the piece of paneling using stainless steel screws. Now when I turn on my truck/trailer lights when towing the relay/extender comes on. I can also reach over the top and get to the relay/extender in-line fuse without removing the screws/paneling

      Click image for larger version Name:	fsremove2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	116.9 KB ID:	18976

      They say the paneling is structural. Although the wooden frame looks to be structural. the paneling at most would be structural for a doll house. The paneling might be used to stabilize the frame but it was fairly easy to pry loose. After reinstalling it with a few stainless steel screws, if you attempted to pry it loose you would rip the paneling apart.


      Sometime in the near future I'm going to do the same thing for the driver's side so I can install a dimmer knob to my front cap LED's.



      On my 2600RB, all these wires run from this area through a loom overhead in the passthrough and back into the docking station then through the floor. I also need to access my marker light circuit and will access it in the docking station. The dremel idea is really nice where they also have a tool similar to this for cutting holes as well. Works great for speakers.

      Jim

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      • #33
        Originally posted by ckreef View Post
        This tread is just wrong as it applies to the original question . The front storage board is paneling attached to a wooden frame using finishing nails and pin Staples. Although I believe it would be possible to take it off in one complete piece, removing it in sections should be much easier. Here is what I did:

        I wanted to get behind that panel on the passenger side so I could install a TST tpms relay/extender to the front marker light.

        I located the first vertical stud away from the side wall. About 24". I popped a vertical line 1/2 way across the stud. I then used a dremel tool with cutoff wheel to cut through the paneling but not into the stud. I used a box cutter to make the final cut near the floor. Using a small and large pry bar I carefully pried the trim pieces and paneling off the studs. It wasn't hard you just need to do it gently so you don't bust the paneling.

        Click image for larger version Name:	fsremove1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	139.6 KB ID:	18975

        You then need to push from the backside to get the finishing nails and pin staples out of the paneling. I installed my relay/extender then reattached the piece of paneling using stainless steel screws. Now when I turn on my truck/trailer lights when towing the relay/extender comes on. I can also reach over the top and get to the relay/extender in-line fuse without removing the screws/paneling

        Click image for larger version Name:	fsremove2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	116.9 KB ID:	18976

        They say the paneling is structural. Although the wooden frame looks to be structural. the paneling at most would be structural for a doll house. The paneling might be used to stabilize the frame but it was fairly easy to pry loose. After reinstalling it with a few stainless steel screws, if you attempted to pry it loose you would rip the paneling apart.


        Sometime in the near future I'm going to do the same thing for the driver's side so I can install a dimmer knob to my front cap LED's.



        I really want to thank you for your write up. It confirms what I hoped could be done to access that area. Also you gave me the great idea for placing and powering a TPMS extender. Also it give me a chance to look at moving my house batteries into the basement area. I'm still looking for the fuse that's supposed to be inline and this will give me a chance to try to track it down.

        Now to empty out enough of the basement to work in.

        As for a dimmer for the front cap LED's, you might find this video useful. I've put in a dimmer as shown in the video. I've since found there is a direct replacement switch with a dimmer slide built in.

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPX_...ature=youtu.be
        2020 F-250 Lariat 2WD SuperCrew 6.7L, Blue Ox SwayPro hitch w/ 1000lb bars
        2020 Imagine 2600RD w/ Road Armor + wet bolt suspension, Yakima Longhaul Bike Rack, MicroAir EasyStart 364 for AC, Lion Energy 105 amp Lithiium Ion X2
        Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ
        FMCA # 489460

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by howson View Post

          Nice work and documentation--thanks for posting.

          For controlled depth with a dremel tool, the Cutting Kit attachment shown below is another option (in addition to the cutoff wheel mentioned). Use the Cutting Kit with some sort of guide (wood, ruler, etc) and it is easy to get a straight line. (It's just a mini-router attachment for the Dremel.)

          Click image for larger version

Name:	Dremel 2.JPG
Views:	378
Size:	85.3 KB
ID:	18981

          Howard,

          Now you have me waiting for the cutting kit attachment so I can finally get behind the board. Appreciate the tip.
          2020 F-250 Lariat 2WD SuperCrew 6.7L, Blue Ox SwayPro hitch w/ 1000lb bars
          2020 Imagine 2600RD w/ Road Armor + wet bolt suspension, Yakima Longhaul Bike Rack, MicroAir EasyStart 364 for AC, Lion Energy 105 amp Lithiium Ion X2
          Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ
          FMCA # 489460

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by Running from Gnats View Post

            Howard,

            Now you have me waiting for the cutting kit attachment so I can finally get behind the board. Appreciate the tip.
            The cut off wheel mentioned by ckreef is a very think saw blade type wheel. This will make a very thin cut and not remove a lot of material. This blade will not be able to be used with the kit that howson has linked to. The blade , if used with this kit , will run parallel to the surface you are trying to cut. The router bits pictured with this kit will have to be used to make the cut. These bits will be 1/8" diameter and will remove a slot of material that is 1/8" wide. You will have to slide the panels together to make up this gap. Using a blade type thinner cutting tool will allow for a smaller gap and less noticeable. I is in the front storage and either way should not be a problem but if it was on the interior a smaller cut would be more desirable.

            Brian
            Brian & Michelle
            2018 Reflection 29RS
            2022 Chevy 3500HD

            Comment


            • #36
              I don't have the dremel router accessory, but do use the 575 right angle attachment for close cut off wheel work.

              edit: For wood I mostly use an oscillating tool with saw blade, like Milwaukee M12 2426-20.
              Last edited by gbkims; 05-21-2020, 05:17 PM.
              Gene and Kim
              2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
              2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by ckreef View Post
                This tread is just wrong as it applies to the original question . The front storage board is paneling attached to a wooden frame using finishing nails and pin Staples. Although I believe it would be possible to take it off in one complete piece, removing it in sections should be much easier. Here is what I did:

                I wanted to get behind that panel on the passenger side so I could install a TST tpms relay/extender to the front marker light.

                I located the first vertical stud away from the side wall. About 24". I popped a vertical line 1/2 way across the stud. I then used a dremel tool with cutoff wheel to cut through the paneling but not into the stud. I used a box cutter to make the final cut near the floor. Using a small and large pry bar I carefully pried the trim pieces and paneling off the studs. It wasn't hard you just need to do it gently so you don't bust the paneling.

                Click image for larger version Name:	fsremove1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	139.6 KB ID:	18975

                You then need to push from the backside to get the finishing nails and pin staples out of the paneling. I installed my relay/extender then reattached the piece of paneling using stainless steel screws. Now when I turn on my truck/trailer lights when towing the relay/extender comes on. I can also reach over the top and get to the relay/extender in-line fuse without removing the screws/paneling

                Click image for larger version Name:	fsremove2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	116.9 KB ID:	18976

                They say the paneling is structural. Although the wooden frame looks to be structural. the paneling at most would be structural for a doll house. The paneling might be used to stabilize the frame but it was fairly easy to pry loose. After reinstalling it with a few stainless steel screws, if you attempted to pry it loose you would rip the paneling apart.


                Sometime in the near future I'm going to do the same thing for the driver's side so I can install a dimmer knob to my front cap LED's.



                I followed what you did to access behind the panel and, while it took a bit of time working in 90+ heat and burning thru several Dremel wood cutting disks, I was able to remove that section and hook up my TPMS booster. Now I don't have to access the batteries to make the hookup before every trip. Reattached with 1 inch wood screws. I also used the trim strip which had been against the outer wall (next to the slam door) to cover the groove cut into the panel.

                One thing I ran into and other might want to be aware of is GD glued a fair portion of the contact areas of the panel with the framing behind it. I was able to make the vertical cut and start to press the board free. However about 1/2 down, the board hung. I was able to put a little more pressure and used a body trim tool to get the board to pop. I did loose a very thin veneer from the back of the panel where the glue attached to the plywood, but no real issues, strength wise.

                Thanks for the information on how to get that access. BTW, how did the install of the dimmer for the cap LEDs go?
                2020 F-250 Lariat 2WD SuperCrew 6.7L, Blue Ox SwayPro hitch w/ 1000lb bars
                2020 Imagine 2600RD w/ Road Armor + wet bolt suspension, Yakima Longhaul Bike Rack, MicroAir EasyStart 364 for AC, Lion Energy 105 amp Lithiium Ion X2
                Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ
                FMCA # 489460

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Running from Gnats View Post

                  I followed what you did to access behind the panel and, while it took a bit of time working in 90+ heat and burning thru several Dremel wood cutting disks, I was able to remove that section and hook up my TPMS booster. Now I don't have to access the batteries to make the hookup before every trip. Reattached with 1 inch wood screws. I also used the trim strip which had been against the outer wall (next to the slam door) to cover the groove cut into the panel.

                  One thing I ran into and other might want to be aware of is GD glued a fair portion of the contact areas of the panel with the framing behind it. I was able to make the vertical cut and start to press the board free. However about 1/2 down, the board hung. I was able to put a little more pressure and used a body trim tool to get the board to pop. I did loose a very thin veneer from the back of the panel where the glue attached to the plywood, but no real issues, strength wise.

                  Thanks for the information on how to get that access. BTW, how did the install of the dimmer for the cap LEDs go?

                  Good idea using the trim piece to cover the cut line.

                  I haven't got the dimmer yet but that project will be coming soon. I actually have 4 dimmers I want to install.
                  Front cap
                  Main lights
                  Awning lights
                  Install some blue LED lights on my stairs with a dimmer switch installed in the control panel.

                  I'm getting my brain together and will probably order parts for all that next weekend. Will post all this once I get it done.
                  Charles and Susan
                  2021 Ram 3500 6.4 Hemi, 4x4 CCSB
                  Andersen Hitch
                  2021 Reflection 337rls

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by ckreef View Post


                    Good idea using the trim piece to cover the cut line.

                    I haven't got the dimmer yet but that project will be coming soon. I actually have 4 dimmers I want to install.
                    Front cap
                    Main lights
                    Awning lights
                    Install some blue LED lights on my stairs with a dimmer switch installed in the control panel.

                    I'm getting my brain together and will probably order parts for all that next weekend. Will post all this once I get it done.
                    I added dimmers to the main lighting and awning (control panel), bedroom overhead (switch with slider), front cap and the overhead bathroom lights. In the bathroom, I've installed a 10 speed Maxxfan w/remote, which I had wired and replaced the two switches with a switch/dimmer combination. The only lights not on dimmers are over the dining table and the theatre seats.
                    2020 F-250 Lariat 2WD SuperCrew 6.7L, Blue Ox SwayPro hitch w/ 1000lb bars
                    2020 Imagine 2600RD w/ Road Armor + wet bolt suspension, Yakima Longhaul Bike Rack, MicroAir EasyStart 364 for AC, Lion Energy 105 amp Lithiium Ion X2
                    Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ
                    FMCA # 489460

                    Comment

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