Enough is Enough - Coping with added work during a repair? At whits end here!

[Yoda]

Well I thought my pantry repair was going well - until I had to stick my head into the cabinet and look up. The upper shelves I thought were in good condition are not. The side braces that are stapled through the visible wall between the pantry and TV cabinet are pulling free. So I thought - just dig out your pin nailer and fix.. I created a brace, injected some glue and forced it tight against the decorative wall and grabbed the pin nailer. I was lucky I had some short pin nails in my stock. Nothing could go wrong.......... right?

So I load the nailer and set the air at a bout 90 psi ( I have a chart I keep on nail length and proper air pressure) and do a test nail on a scrap of the wood that GD used. Well it's been at least 10 years since I last used it. I did keep it properly lubed. UGGGGG!!!!! First nail was very proud (so adjusted the debt setting), second bent and third - miss fire. so dummy me thinking it did not feed, fired again without checking . So I now have a big ugly jammed twisted mess. I need to call Porter-Cable in the morning on how to fix as manual does not cover exactly what I have and I don't want to break the gun. So right now I don't want to even look at the project - but I must get it done

So when you folks hit that wall what do you do? Right now I am trying to enjoy a big glass of wine, but its not helping. I was going to put K-Bobs on the grill but have lost interest. So right now I am derailed.

Keith

PS Moderators - please move if this is not the right place.
PSS Anyone know what will work to free up a gummed up nailer inner workings? I was thinking WD40.

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Keith,

There should be a latched "door" on the front of your pin nailer that will open to clear the jam.

Since I know you are always looking for reasons to buy new tools . . . I had a Porter Cable pin nailer for years . . . it became "unreliable" so I replaced it with a Makita (surprise surprise) . . . the Makita works really well .

Rob

[Country Campers]

Use screws where you can, nails will just pull out again at some point.

Brian

[Yoda]

Hi Keith,

There should be a latched "door" on the front of your pin nailer that will open to clear the jam.

Since I know you are always looking for reasons to buy new tools . . . I had a Porter Cable pin nailer for years . . . it became "unreliable" so I replaced it with a Makita (surprise surprise) . . . the Makita works really well .

Rob

Country Campers

Thanks Rob - that door was fully jammed - had the nail sticking out the side of the door and I could not get the latch to move. Porter Cable got me out of the pickle this morning (I was up early). Ill give the teck (Ryan ) a gold star as he stayed on the phone as I took things apart. Sorry but no pictures. I had to loosen a few screws to wedge my screwdriver in to operate the latch to open the door. I forgot to ask though what I need to do to clean up the gummed interior. It is now working OK (no damage) , but I just don't trust it until I can get it cleaned up and operating freely.

Brian
Thanks (good idea) but the screws would be visible on the outside, so I need to find something decorative with a washer head or separate decorative washer in a #6 or #8 by 3/4" in black or dark brown or dark oil rubbed bronze. Ill look in town this morning at my favorite Ace hardware, as I have an EYE Doctor appointment. I also discovered there are a couple of cabinet shops in town and a furniture repair place so will call them later. If I find the screws that is the way I will go.

Thanks for helping - I just hit the wall yesterday - been a long time.

PS Rob - is the Makita air or battery operated - curious what you have?

Keith

[Cate&Rob]

Yoda In answer to your question . . . the Makita brad nailer (that replaced my Porter Cable) is pneumatic. I also have similar pneumatic Makita staple driver and 3 1/2” framing nailer . . . all work equally well.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

Keith, I have taken apart more nail guns that I want to talk about. I suggest you grab a tube of silicone grease, some rags, and a lightweight oil.

Remove the upper head so you can remove the piston and driver. Using the light weight oil as a solvent, clean everything non metallic this way. You can use rubbing alcohol or some other solvent on the metal parts. Before you re assemble, wipe everything down with air tool oil, WD, or rubbing alcohol (prefer the latter and set in a warm place). Using copious amounts of air, blow out the body. Then using the silicone grease lube up all sliding parts and o-rings before re assembly.

I would have to look closely at the trigger as some thread in and some have a cross pin.

Worst case call PC back and ask for a complete rebuild kit with all the o-rings, bumpers and don't forget to ask if the trigger kit is separate. You may even get a new driver with the rebuild kit.

Now that you have experienced a malfunction as you describe, inspect the tip of the driver for any wear, chips, or just anything in general that looks not normal. If you find any of the mentioned, replace or you will have the same issues.

I may or may not have ran WD through a gun in the past (was in a bad bind) but that one ended up getting a complete rebuild shortly there after as many many parts were less than up to acceptable minimum spec.

I do love the Senco and other nailers, but you just cannot beat the LIFETIME WARRANTY with a dead horse on https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-P...8HPF/309991679

On edit, can not have you buy the cheap one you might try https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-P...F353/300347905 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/MAX-23-G...460.:rolleyes:

[Yoda]

Thanks Joseph. I have some replacement seals,etc that came with the nailer - also found the full instructions / service manual, etc - was buried behind the cover plastic in the case. The oil that I have been using is air gun oil as recommended by PC.
Just so you know, every time I rebuild something I have parts left over.

I think I'll take your suggestion and get the rebuild kit and ask about the trigger. Be a good winter project. Or see if there is a service center close. There is no damage that I can see.

I also may have found some decorative screws locally. They come with a washer a cap attaches to, Meanwhile I can get 80% of the work done. I am taking it slow and checking my measurements a lot.

Keith

[Jlawles2]

For your pantry debockle, I strongly suggest you back up and punt a bit.

Starting at the bottom, cut 6 pcs of wood (ply or solid) 3/4" thick or so about 3" wide. Length needs to be the floor to bottom of shelf length. Install 1 pc at each corner of the shelf gluing to the side wall, and tacking with the pin nailer. If there is an angled piece on the floor at the back wall just put the piece there. Split the difference between the front and rear supports using the last 2 pcs. After installing the bottom shelf, pin the shelf to the top of the new wood. Repeat for the bottom to next up and repeat again until you reach the top shelf. You can also toe nail the supports to the shelf where you cannot shoot down through the shelf for added support while the glue dries. You do not gain adjust ability but you will get a pantry that will survive the rolling Richter scale 4 earthquake. It's also not elegant, but at some point effective exceeds elegance when it comes to dealing with issues while on the road.

You can use a router (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-3...01FC/202757224 picked the most expensive just for you) to ease the edges of the new wood with either a round over or a chamfer bit (https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-3...4114/202563343 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-1...0104/204073447) which will help minimize the potential for damage to the edges.

[Yoda]

For your pantry debockle, I strongly suggest you back up and punt a bit.

Starting at the bottom, cut 6 pcs of wood (ply or solid) 3/4" thick or so about 3" wide. Length needs to be the floor to bottom of shelf length. Install 1 pc at each corner of the shelf gluing to the side wall, and tacking with the pin nailer. If there is an angled piece on the floor at the back wall just put the piece there. Split the difference between the front and rear supports using the last 2 pcs. After installing the bottom shelf, pin the shelf to the top of the new wood. Repeat for the bottom to next up and repeat again until you reach the top shelf. You can also toe nail the supports to the shelf where you cannot shoot down through the shelf for added support while the glue dries. You do not gain adjust ability but you will get a pantry that will survive the rolling Richter scale 4 earthquake. It's also not elegant, but at some point effective exceeds elegance when it comes to dealing with issues while on the road.

You can use a router (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-3...01FC/202757224 picked the most expensive just for you) to ease the edges of the new wood with either a round over or a chamfer bit (https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-3...4114/202563343 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-1...0104/204073447) which will help minimize the potential for damage to the edges.

Thanks for the ideas.

Now as far as a new router - I have two already. One large one mounted in a router table and a medium sized PC plunge type. But goo try

[Cate&Rob]

For rounding edges, Makita makes a great “one handed” 18V router. https://www.makitatools.com/products...lters=99999_71

Rob

[Yoda]

For rounding edges, Makita makes a great “one handed” 18V router. https://www.makitatools.com/products...lters=99999_71

Rob

LOL - You guys have got to stop this SWMBO just caught me looking at it

[Jlawles2]

Everyone knows you need a backup for each.

I have a https://www.portercable.com/product/...kit?tid=576206 (might be the previous model, but same power and bases) that I know will hold up for a while. Both of the custom shops I worked in had one. Can't tell you how many hours I put on each of those.

[ncitro]

I have a full size plunge unit in a table as well, but a few years ago got a Dewalt cordless trim router like Robs. Its great and I use it far more than the big one.

https://www.dewalt.com/product/dwp61...compact-router