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I have discovered rotten wood on the street side of my basement storage area just inside of compartment doors. The wood is going to need replacing. I am trying to determine if this can be a DIY project. Has anyone had experience removing and replacing the basement storage floor? I have a 2016 Reflection 337 RLS.
Knowing you (which I do ) . . . I would think that this is well within your DIY capability. Replacing the entire floor might be rather complex, but cutting out the rotted area and splicing in a new piece of plywood should not be too difficult. A rather "normal" boat repair. I have done similar things many times.
I was just outside doing some minor surgery for investigative purposes. Actually the "good" wood is going to be the easiest because there is nothing on top of it. The part that is rotten is under the water hookup panel.
Looks like the only thing holding the OSB wood in place is 4 nails (1in each corner) the factory blasted right into the I Beam frame. I'll keep you posted.
Well . . . that all makes sense (unfortunately). The rot would be under where it gets wet (the water panel). You are correct that this floor is usually fastened to the aluminum structure with air driven nails. Post some pictures and myself and others may have some ideas that might help.
Actually there is no aluminum structure under this area. The left and right sides rest directly on the trailer frame (the nails are in the main I Beam). I have been able to chisel 2 of the nails and lift the curb side so I can see under it and all I can see are the tanks the underbelly material and a whole bunch of wires! I will post some pictures when I get a chance.
I think I'm going to replace all of the wood with plywood instead of OSB. Since I will need a seam, would you go perpendicular or parallel to the support cross member that can be seen in pic #2?
In response to post #7, turn the plywood so that grain of most of the plys are perpendicular to or crossing the supports. This will be the strongest orientation of the plywood.
John
2018 Momentum 395M
2018 Ram 3500 Dually
Every day is a Saturday, but with no lawn to mow.
Any plywood is going to be expensive these days . . . but if you want to make this as permanent a repair as possible, you could go with "marine grade" plywood. This will be made from better quality wood with no voids in the core layers and 100% waterproof glue. You will not likely be able to find "tongue and groove" but an overlap joint cut with a router and bonded with epoxy will be as strong as the rest of the plywood. I have seen 60" wide plywood . . . but, I have no idea if this is available in your area. https://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/product/cfp60s/
Looking at your pictures Jim, I can now see why my trailer came back to me with a Nautilus control panel and the Kantleak was gone. I am impressed with your willingness to get that deep into a repair like this.
Paul and Deb Cervone
2022 Imagine XLS 22MLE
2021 Imagine XLS 17MKE - SOLD; 2015 Reflection 337RLS - SOLD
2016 GMC Denali 3500 SRW
Any plywood is going to be expensive these days . . . but if you want to make this as permanent a repair as possible, you could go with "marine grade" plywood. This will be made from better quality wood with no voids in the core layers and 100% waterproof glue. You will not likely be able to find "tongue and groove" but an overlap joint cut with a router and bonded with epoxy will be as strong as the rest of the plywood. I have seen 60" wide plywood . . . but, I have no idea if this is available in your area. https://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/product/cfp60s/
Rob
Jim & Deb
To add to what the original Rob has said, marine grade would be the way to go. Second choice would be pressure treated, but that stuff is wet and rough to work with. You could biskit the edge to hold the seam, or use a router to tung and grove it yourself. However I just had a thought of a simple way to reinforce the seam. As you will have extra from 2-4x8 sheets, cut strips 24" wide that fit between the beams and sub laminate one edge to create a lip. In other words add a strip overlapped under one side (glued and screwed) between the beams to create a lip for the other piece. On top of the beams use a good urethane glue (stays flexible), then drill and use self tapping screws into the beam flange. I always pre-driil even when using self tapping to keep them from wallowing out a hole.
If you cant find Marine grade or pressure treated, look for solid core plywood and pre-treat with a waterproofing agent before installation - especially any cut edges.
Good luck
Just brainstorming here
Keith
2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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