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  • Basement Storage Floor Replacement

    I have discovered rotten wood on the street side of my basement storage area just inside of compartment doors. The wood is going to need replacing. I am trying to determine if this can be a DIY project. Has anyone had experience removing and replacing the basement storage floor? I have a 2016 Reflection 337 RLS.

    Jim
    Jim&Deb
    2016 Reflection 337 RLS
    2015 GMC Denali 3500HD Duramax, 4wd, Crew Cab 6'6" box, SRW

  • #2
    Jim & Deb amp;
    Hi Jim,

    Knowing you (which I do ) . . . I would think that this is well within your DIY capability. Replacing the entire floor might be rather complex, but cutting out the rotted area and splicing in a new piece of plywood should not be too difficult. A rather "normal" boat repair. I have done similar things many times.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
    2015 Reflection 303RLS
    2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
    Bayham, Ontario, Canada

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Rob,

      I was just outside doing some minor surgery for investigative purposes. Actually the "good" wood is going to be the easiest because there is nothing on top of it. The part that is rotten is under the water hookup panel.

      Looks like the only thing holding the OSB wood in place is 4 nails (1in each corner) the factory blasted right into the I Beam frame. I'll keep you posted.

      Jim
      Jim&Deb
      2016 Reflection 337 RLS
      2015 GMC Denali 3500HD Duramax, 4wd, Crew Cab 6'6" box, SRW

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Jim,

        Well . . . that all makes sense (unfortunately). The rot would be under where it gets wet (the water panel). You are correct that this floor is usually fastened to the aluminum structure with air driven nails. Post some pictures and myself and others may have some ideas that might help.

        Rob
        Cate & Rob
        (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
        2015 Reflection 303RLS
        2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
        Bayham, Ontario, Canada

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey Rob,

          Actually there is no aluminum structure under this area. The left and right sides rest directly on the trailer frame (the nails are in the main I Beam). I have been able to chisel 2 of the nails and lift the curb side so I can see under it and all I can see are the tanks the underbelly material and a whole bunch of wires! I will post some pictures when I get a chance.
          Jim&Deb
          2016 Reflection 337 RLS
          2015 GMC Denali 3500HD Duramax, 4wd, Crew Cab 6'6" box, SRW

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, It was quite a mess! Got it all apart. Now time to find the new parts.

            Jim

            Jim&Deb
            2016 Reflection 337 RLS
            2015 GMC Denali 3500HD Duramax, 4wd, Crew Cab 6'6" box, SRW

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Rob,

              I think I'm going to replace all of the wood with plywood instead of OSB. Since I will need a seam, would you go perpendicular or parallel to the support cross member that can be seen in pic #2?

              Jim
              Jim&Deb
              2016 Reflection 337 RLS
              2015 GMC Denali 3500HD Duramax, 4wd, Crew Cab 6'6" box, SRW

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi Jim,

                If your plan is to replace "all" of the OSB . . . which looks rather easy from your pictures. Where/why would you need a "seam"?

                Rob
                Cate & Rob
                (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                2015 Reflection 303RLS
                2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                Comment


                • #9
                  The area is 57 inches x 83 inches
                  Jim&Deb
                  2016 Reflection 337 RLS
                  2015 GMC Denali 3500HD Duramax, 4wd, Crew Cab 6'6" box, SRW

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jim & Deb View Post
                    The area is 57 inches x 83 inches
                    Well . . . That would explain the need for a seam . . .

                    Rob

                    Cate & Rob
                    (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                    2015 Reflection 303RLS
                    2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                    Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tongue and groove plywood and glue the joint with epoxy? I would probably run the joint crosswise so the sheets span both frame rails.

                      Rob
                      Cate & Rob
                      (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                      2015 Reflection 303RLS
                      2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                      Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        In response to post #7, turn the plywood so that grain of most of the plys are perpendicular to or crossing the supports. This will be the strongest orientation of the plywood.
                        John
                        2018 Momentum 395M
                        2018 Ram 3500 Dually
                        Every day is a Saturday, but with no lawn to mow.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Jim & Deb amp;
                          Hi Jim,

                          Any plywood is going to be expensive these days . . . but if you want to make this as permanent a repair as possible, you could go with "marine grade" plywood. This will be made from better quality wood with no voids in the core layers and 100% waterproof glue. You will not likely be able to find "tongue and groove" but an overlap joint cut with a router and bonded with epoxy will be as strong as the rest of the plywood. I have seen 60" wide plywood . . . but, I have no idea if this is available in your area. https://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/product/cfp60s/

                          Rob
                          Cate & Rob
                          (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                          2015 Reflection 303RLS
                          2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                          Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Looking at your pictures Jim, I can now see why my trailer came back to me with a Nautilus control panel and the Kantleak was gone. I am impressed with your willingness to get that deep into a repair like this.
                            Paul and Deb Cervone
                            2022 Imagine XLS 22MLE
                            2021 Imagine XLS 17MKE - SOLD; 2015 Reflection 337RLS - SOLD
                            2016 GMC Denali 3500 SRW

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
                              Jim & Deb amp;
                              Hi Jim,

                              Any plywood is going to be expensive these days . . . but if you want to make this as permanent a repair as possible, you could go with "marine grade" plywood. This will be made from better quality wood with no voids in the core layers and 100% waterproof glue. You will not likely be able to find "tongue and groove" but an overlap joint cut with a router and bonded with epoxy will be as strong as the rest of the plywood. I have seen 60" wide plywood . . . but, I have no idea if this is available in your area. https://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/product/cfp60s/

                              Rob
                              Jim & Deb
                              To add to what the original Rob has said, marine grade would be the way to go. Second choice would be pressure treated, but that stuff is wet and rough to work with. You could biskit the edge to hold the seam, or use a router to tung and grove it yourself. However I just had a thought of a simple way to reinforce the seam. As you will have extra from 2-4x8 sheets, cut strips 24" wide that fit between the beams and sub laminate one edge to create a lip. In other words add a strip overlapped under one side (glued and screwed) between the beams to create a lip for the other piece. On top of the beams use a good urethane glue (stays flexible), then drill and use self tapping screws into the beam flange. I always pre-driil even when using self tapping to keep them from wallowing out a hole.

                              If you cant find Marine grade or pressure treated, look for solid core plywood and pre-treat with a waterproofing agent before installation - especially any cut edges.

                              Good luck
                              Just brainstorming here
                              Keith
                              2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

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