Gap in front bedroom door, won't latch

[Timmer]

Hello all,

A few trips ago I noticed the strike plate was loose on our front bedroom door frame. When I tightened the strike plate, the door would no longer latch. It turns out that there is a significant gap between the door and the frame. We are a bit mystified about the gap. On one hand, it is notable and both my wife and I feel we would have noticed it had it always been this way. On the other hand, the door frame appears quite square which in my mind would suggest it came that way from the factory. Any thoughts on this? How would you repair it? I could shim the strike plate or hinges but that would be unsightly and wouldn't solve the problem with the gap. It would seem that I need to pull off the trim and modify one side of the frame to reduce the frame width, and in turn potentially replace the trim with wider trim to cover any gap between the frame and the wall as the existing trim isn't very wide.

BTW, it's a 2020 Grand Design Reflection 312BHTS

Thanks for your help!

[howson]

Timmer

Maybe a "from left field" response (and probably wrong), but did it take a lot to level the unit in it's current spot? What I'm hinting at is maybe the gap wasn't noticed because it wasn't there before and there's a slight twist in the frame due to how the unit is leveled?

It would help other forum members if you'd spell out what you have. Best way is to put it in a signature line (so you don't have to repeat the info in every post). See the Welcome Letter for more info! https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

[Jlawles2]

Timmer You might want to try and loosen the striker screws. Not certain on the GD, but my previous 5er the frame was plastic and for some reason had gaps in some areas and not in others. It could be that the framing behind the striker is a bit recessed and you just pulled the door frame to the wall framing, if this is the case, you will need to find a way to shim the striker.

[Timmer]

Timmer

Maybe a "from left field" response (and probably wrong), but did it take a lot to level the unit in it's current spot? What I'm hinting at is maybe the gap wasn't noticed because it wasn't there before and there's a slight twist in the frame due to how the unit is leveled?

It would help other forum members if you'd spell out what you have. Best way is to put it in a signature line (so you don't have to repeat the info in every post). See the Welcome Letter for more info! https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

Thanks. I thought I had already edited my signature, but I guess not. Just did now. I also added the model to my original post.

The gap is happening no matter where, including my shed with a level concrete floor.

[Timmer]

Timmer You might want to try and loosen the striker screws. Not certain on the GD, but my previous 5er the frame was plastic and for some reason had gaps in some areas and not in others. It could be that the framing behind the striker is a bit recessed and you just pulled the door frame to the wall framing, if this is the case, you will need to find a way to shim the striker.

That's an interesting thought. My recollection is that the gap is consistent from top to bottom and the frame appears straight, but I will check.

[Timmer]

A couple of updates...

I measured the gap between the door and the frame at three spots. On the top the gap is 3/8", in the middle it is 5/8", and on the bottom it is 1/2"

As a temporary solution, I installed two shims under the strike plate, one on the top and bottom of the plate where the screws go into the frame. The shims are less than 1/8" on one end thickening to about 1/8" on the other end. It is now holding the door closed. It doesn't solve the gap problem obviously. You can still see through the crack to the other side of the door.

I noticed that all along that door frame on the striker plate side that the staples are sticking out. I am now guessing the door frame got bumped into hard. Perhaps by an crazy teenager. Do you think I could put a block of wood along the frame and try tapping it back into place? The problem being I could only do that on the bedroom side. On the other side of the door is the wall for the bathroom.

[Jlawles2]

Timmer Im my case on the previous 5er the top of the frame was held off by trim causing the door to stick. I had to trim the edge molding back and adjust the screws. this is how i figured out there was a gap behind the frame.

In your case, you may need to level the camper using the opposing side of the frame as reference, measure gaps, remove striker side and shim, then reinstall.