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I don't recall seeing a post on how to replace the cord on a pleated blind before, so I thought I would do a quick writeup on this super easy repair. Anyways, one of my darling children were playing with the blind in our bedroom and snapped the cord. Thankfully it was just a dual string blind, so it made the repair really easy.
Only material needed is new cord. On our pleated blind, it looked like a braided nylon cord, and thankfully our local craft store had a variety pack of different widths.
At first I thought I would need the thinnest cord, but in actuality it was the third largest, which is 1.5mm in thickness or 1/16" depending on your location
I also thought that a mason line would work here, but I didn't think the orange color would be appreciated on a black curtain by the DW. The only tool needed for this was a small blade screwdriver to open the clasps that are used to secure the string ends to the spring at the top.
First step in the repair was to disconnect the cord from the retainer clips on the trailer wall and take the blind down. In our trailer, the blind was only attached into the valance by two screws that goes through the top rail straight up into the valance. It helped having someone here to hold up one side of the blind after the first screw is removed, while trying to remove the other. Once the blind was down, it was a simple matter of removing the end caps on the top and bottom rail covers on the blind to expose the cord inside.
You can see in the photo the missing cord on the right, and the remaining good cord on the left. The string for the blind is two sections, one that enters at the bottom of the blind through the cap on the left, travels along the bottom rail and up through the pleats on the right-hand side, through the top rail where it's secured to the spring. The other segment follows a similar path, but enters on the right, and travels up through the pleats on the left and again attaches to the spring.
To remove what remained of the broken segment of string, I simply open the clasps that hold the loop in the string, which secure it to the tension spring, and pulled the string through. I then gathered all the pleats together, same idea as raising the blind open really, and fished the new cord through the holes, up to the top rail and looped it to spring, securing it with the clasps. Once secured, I spread all the pleats apart, like I am closing the blind, to determine how much length of cord I needed. I made sure to account for the length needed to travel along the bottom rail to the opposite side, and extra cord needed to tie it to the retainer clip when I go to re-install the blind.
Once the new cord was replaced, put the top and bottom rail covers back on, while poking the cords through the holes on the bottom caps. After that, it's simply a matter of re-securing the blind to the valance, along with cutting the new string to the correct length and securing both ends to the cord retainers.
Easy-peasy!
Only material needed is new cord. On our pleated blind, it looked like a braided nylon cord, and thankfully our local craft store had a variety pack of different widths.
At first I thought I would need the thinnest cord, but in actuality it was the third largest, which is 1.5mm in thickness or 1/16" depending on your location
I also thought that a mason line would work here, but I didn't think the orange color would be appreciated on a black curtain by the DW. The only tool needed for this was a small blade screwdriver to open the clasps that are used to secure the string ends to the spring at the top. First step in the repair was to disconnect the cord from the retainer clips on the trailer wall and take the blind down. In our trailer, the blind was only attached into the valance by two screws that goes through the top rail straight up into the valance. It helped having someone here to hold up one side of the blind after the first screw is removed, while trying to remove the other. Once the blind was down, it was a simple matter of removing the end caps on the top and bottom rail covers on the blind to expose the cord inside.
You can see in the photo the missing cord on the right, and the remaining good cord on the left. The string for the blind is two sections, one that enters at the bottom of the blind through the cap on the left, travels along the bottom rail and up through the pleats on the right-hand side, through the top rail where it's secured to the spring. The other segment follows a similar path, but enters on the right, and travels up through the pleats on the left and again attaches to the spring.
To remove what remained of the broken segment of string, I simply open the clasps that hold the loop in the string, which secure it to the tension spring, and pulled the string through. I then gathered all the pleats together, same idea as raising the blind open really, and fished the new cord through the holes, up to the top rail and looped it to spring, securing it with the clasps. Once secured, I spread all the pleats apart, like I am closing the blind, to determine how much length of cord I needed. I made sure to account for the length needed to travel along the bottom rail to the opposite side, and extra cord needed to tie it to the retainer clip when I go to re-install the blind.
Once the new cord was replaced, put the top and bottom rail covers back on, while poking the cords through the holes on the bottom caps. After that, it's simply a matter of re-securing the blind to the valance, along with cutting the new string to the correct length and securing both ends to the cord retainers.
Easy-peasy!