Bedroom Sliding Door

[mgsmithnj]

Thanks Jlawles2. I was doing some more research last night and found these Pop-Toggles as a recommended solution for RV walls, mainly interior walls. I think the exterior walls have foam insulation that might block inserting something like this, but my use-case is for an interior wall. I see your point about the floor too. It sounds similar to the exterior walls. There is a gap that in theory I can screw/bolt into - as long as it doesn't go through the 2nd sheet of plywood. Not sure I'm going to install any of these into the floor though. I'd prefer to mount to the wall just to be safe.

[Rabbit]

I have an Imagine 3100RD and installed a plug in the wall behind the bedroom barn door. The wall has at least 1-1/2” open space inside. I’ve had excellent results mounting heavier items on this type wall construction (a wall mount fan for example) using the type hollow wall/door anchors that are metal with a screw that draws up the back of the anchor into a four prongs that spread and press against the back of the wall plywood. Similar to:Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973264901 Extra Short Hollow Wall Anchors, 1/8-Inch, 18-Piece https://a.co/d/bbwBJUD I’ve also used them successfully on outside walls. Try to find Stanley brand. Avoid cheap brands online as they often fail to install correctly. Look for a length for 1/8” to about 1/2” thickness, often called hollow door anchors. These are metal, not plastic and incorporate a threaded machine screw. Very strong.

The advantage of this type anchor it’s strength. It will not pull out.

[Jlawles2]

Depending on where you put the bracket will determine if you will need an expanding wall anchor. If it's into one of the "studs" then wall anchors should not be needed. If it's an interior portion of the wall (confirm by tapping and listening for the hollow sound), then wall anchors will be needed.

As mentioned, being within 1-1/2" - 2" of the end of a wall will most likely be into a "stud". If there is a stripped hole, either glue wood match sticks (cut off the combustible portion), tooth picks, or some other form of filler into the existing hole, then when dry insert the new screw. You can even try upping the size of the screw if possible (others have had good luck with this).

[kengquist]

I have a Solitude S-Class 3740BH with a similar issue. We bought it used and the sliding doors don’t seem to have a way to secure them, if there is it is not apparent. Maybe something broke off somewhere.
anyone with any info on securing those closet doors would be appreciated. Pictures would be very much appreciated as well.

I just ran across your comment and it doesn't look like anyone has responded. I have the 3740BH as well. That model has a couple of different configurations of the closet doors, but the way they're secured should be similar if not the same. Ours has a sliding door in the middle. They are secured on both sides on the upper corners. There are black hooks attached to the upper corners of the door and there are small bungees that attach and hold the doors in place. You may not see the bungees so feel up over the top of the corners of the door. If you have the residential fridge, those doors are secured in a very similar way with the hooks and bungees. I wish I had a pic for you but I don't.

[Toots313]

Toots313
circusuno
or any other owner--anyone have some pictures for mgsmithnj ?

Not sure exactly how they attached it but it works.

[The_Duke]

I just used another screw (albeit a beefier one) drilled through a wine bottle cork and put it next to the original in the ceiling. The cork acts as a nice bumper.

[Lonestar]

I just used another screw (albeit a beefier one) drilled through a wine bottle cork and put it next to the original in the ceiling. The cork acts as a nice bumper.

I did the same with a piece of 1" diameter wood dowel, cut to length to go inside the track. I would advise anyone with this type door to do this as a preemptive measure. When the screw breaks it's going to let the door do some damage before you detect the break.