Should leveling be done with slides in or out?

[Jlawles2]

The biggest issue I've ever encountered in leveling a RV was parents first Motorhome. The installed the fridge out of level to the rest of the camper. When we set the camper up level by the frame, the fridge would not work properly. Check the levelness of the unit in the freezer, then compare it to the rest of the unit.

[Schiefswret]

I have seen several people talk about auto level with slides in/out. Some say they auto level with them in then they put slides out and re-auto level. I have all my heavy weight (kitchen stuff) on one slide will the trailer level stay level if I do it when slides are in? Im getting to take my first trip so I thought I would ask

Sending the slide out is one of the last, if not the last, things I do. I Haven’t had any negative experiences with this procedure.

[JeffC]

I think it is appropriate to note if you have 4 point or 6 point leveling. On our Solitude with 6 point leveling, we level with slides in and make no adjustment for the kitchen side. Never had a problem with that side sagging.

On the rare occasion when we are on a not so stable campground footing and are staying for a while, I have re-leveled once or twice. We bring the slides in for that as well just to be safe. As for auto re-hitch, I have found that to be worthless on my Pullrite Superglide as the hitch is done at a higher point than the release by about an inch.

[Guest]

I level side to side but will set the slide side about 0.25-0.5" high. Then when I extend the slides the suspension will absorb some of the mass as the rig rolls to level. Not exactly per the manual but there have been times where there was too much weight being supported by the stabilizers when I deployed them prior to deploying the slide. So I drop the stabilizers afterwards.

Rigs with small slides or multiple slides or 6 point leveling most likely would not have this issue.

Jim

[GrandDeal3]

I level side to side but will set the slide side about 0.25-0.5" high. Then when I extend the slides the suspension will absorb some of the mass as the rig rolls to level. Not exactly per the manual but there have been times where there was too much weight being supported by the stabilizers when I deployed them prior to deploying the slide. So I drop the stabilizers afterwards.

Rigs with small slides or multiple slides or 6 point leveling most likely would not have this issue.

Jim

If utilizing the Levelmate Pro or similar would you suggest "zeroing" the level with the slide out. This way with the slide in as you are leveling side to side the accommodation should be made?

[Guest]

If utilizing the Levelmate Pro or similar would you suggest "zeroing" the level with the slide out. This way with the slide in as you are leveling side to side the accommodation should be made?

I use the LevelMatePro and have it zero'd at home while being perfectly level and with the slide in. Since it can read out in 1/4 inch increments I use it to bias the slide side 1/4" - 0.5" high and before I extend the slide and lower the stabilizers . I'm cautious to go against the manual but there have been cases where I leveled and extended the stabilizers and then followed up with the slide and the extra mass either sunk the stabilizers (even with blocks on soft ground) or there was too much pressure them that resulted in the door dragging on one occasion. So I try to bias 1/4" high on the slide side if possible so when I extend the slide, the suspension will absorb some of this mass. This takes the pressure off the stabilizers once they are extended to stabilize rather than to support. The 2600RB has a large slide and my original 2017 suspension with 3500lb axles and 1750lb springs will allow the body to roll on extension of the slide. The newer 2600RB rigs with 4400 lb axles and 2200lb springs may not have this issue.

Jim