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I assume there's a pin or something that's broken internally on the Stromberg jack. How hard is this to fix--anyone done it? The manual doesn't call out anything that's obvious.
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I have no experience with this issue but if it were me, I would tear into it and see what is happening. You are right, it does look like a pin or something similar is sheared. Good luck.
THE PROBLEM:
Here’s a short video showing what I found wrong:
For those that choose not to run the video, the upper metal tube has three indents that ride in a channel on the inner tube. The exterior tube’s three indents were completely sheared off.
THE FIX:
Using what I had on hand, I used self-tapping screws whose diameter was just about perfect to the diameter of the inner tube’s channel. Once I had the hole made (using the self-tapping screw’s head) I then used a Dremel tool to cut off the bolt to the length needed. The length was critical to ensure it engaged the channel but didn’t tighten against it. (The inner tube must be able to slide up and down when the motor is engaged.)
When installing the screws, I had to install them with the upper tube turned 180 degrees as the bolt heads won’t pass through the tube’s opening in the frame. Here’s a video showing the screws installed:
Cleaned everything up and lubricated with CRC Power Lube and it works perfectly.
Posts 4-9 shows some gee-whiz pics and notes for those that may have the same Stromberg powered tongue jack.
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If you run into the same problem on the road, secure the lower portion from freewheeling (it can lower itself and impact the road!) using a bungee cord as shown in the picture below.
Note I have the leg lower than you'd have it if actually towing for clarity in this picture. In other words, raise it up as normal then attach the bungee cords.
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The three main bolts are 14mm that hold the outer tube to the trailer frame. This physical connection of the jack to the frame is also the electrical ground for the circuit. If there's 12V to the jack but it still doesn't work, it may be a corroded connection between the jack and frame.
You may also notice in this picture the stress I've put on the frame by trying to lift too much weight (truck still connected to the trailer) with the jack. Don't do that!
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I found out after-the-fact that removing the top outer shroud is not necessary. However, here's some pics of what's underneath and the hardware associated.
Remember--none of this was actually necessary for the repair I accomplished (which I learned after-the-fact). Only posting for reference purposes.
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What I was looking for here was a pin like you'd find on the top of a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engine (if you've ever had one apart you know what I mean). I didn't know about the indents or inner tube channel when I was doing this disassembly. Again, just posting pics for reference purposes.
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The 6mm bolts holding the head to the outer tube were the ones I needed to remove!
This allowed me to raise up the top of the jack (I used the motor to raise it up) so I could disconnect the pin which separated the motor section from the outer tube.
Here's a closeup of the pin and cotter pin which holds the top motor mount to the tube.
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Here's a few pics of the screw I used and the assembly process.
Driving the screws into the tube where the indent was located. (Very easy with the self-tapping screws.)
Here's a shot of the original bolt.
Here's how short I had to cut the bolt for it to work:
That's all--if you have any questions fire away!
-Howard
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Howard, I've raised my jack all the way up where once the end of travel is reached, this will put great stress on those nubs in the tube that sheared off in your case. I wrapped the inner tube with duct tape to give me a visual of the end travel of the jack to avoid the stop. This may help in those cases where some are hitting the hard stop on the jack.
Howard, I've raised my jack all the way up where once the end of travel is reached, this will put great stress on those nubs in the tube that sheared off in your case. I wrapped the inner tube with duct tape to give me a visual of the end travel of the jack to avoid the stop. This may help in those cases where some are hitting the hard stop on the jack.
On the Stromberg, the manufacturer put a white piece of tape with a warning label for exactly the purpose you outlined, Jim. I suspect you have the LCI Smart Jack?
On my jack, going above the white tape would be raising the foot really, really high up into the unit. Once the foot is roughly parallel with the bottom of the Blue Ox (kind of like the pic I clipped from the manual below) I stop. The foot is definitely high enough to not impact the ground while towing.
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Howard, I have an LCI jack before they became smart so there is no memory and such on my unit. My jack even at its high retraction point is not overly high so I hit the stop on mine a couple times. Is sounds terrible and puts an enormous load on the jack.
Met an elderly couple camping this summer who were stuck with an inoperable jack when I asked them if they heard a terrible wrenching sound just before the jack quit. They both nodded yes. Fortunately the camp host who was with me (asked for help with that new fangled jack) had some spare 30amp fuses and we solved their issue. I wrapped their jack with duct tape so they would not have another issue.
Sweet lady insisted I take a jar of canned peaches.
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