All (4) wheels off the ground after auto-level

[hduring]

Some of these comments have jogged my memory to ask if the unit was nose high when you started the auto level process? This is important, and also if the unit is off level side to side it may impact the nose high attitude.

Brian

The info throughout this theme is interesting. We’ve put blocks under the front jacks to ensure they lower at about the same length, and this helped us a lot. We ensure we are as level as possible side-to-side. We generally manually go down 4 or 5 holes and then electronically download our front jacks. Brian’s comment about nose high though has us questioning what exactly that means - we disconnect from truck and then put the front jacks down, so does this mean we should retract the front jacks a little before we autolevel? How should the nose be before we autolevel? Thanks.

[Country Campers]

The info throughout this theme is interesting. We’ve put blocks under the front jacks to ensure they lower at about the same length, and this helped us a lot. We ensure we are as level as possible side-to-side. We generally manually go down 4 or 5 holes and then electronically download our front jacks. Brian’s comment about nose high though has us questioning what exactly that means - we disconnect from truck and then put the front jacks down, so does this mean we should retract the front jacks a little before we autolevel? How should the nose be before we autolevel? Thanks.

I believe that this is in the manual but not sure. I have found on my unit , and others have experienced the similar, that the nose or front of the trailer needs to be high , above level, for auto level to work properly. The first sequence in auto level is to drop the front of the RV until it is close to level front to back. If the nose of the RV is already below level it will keep lowering the front, retracting the front jacks, and not see level until the jacks are fully retracted resulting in a fault. The dilemma with this is the use of auto hitch height. The only way auto hitch height is abled is when you unhook from the tow vehicle and the nose is above level and then you start the auto level process. The auto level function sets the auto hitch height at what ever point the auto level sequence is started. I have not ever used the auto hitch height because while camping I have hit the auto level button after a day or 2 to tighten up the jacks as some settling will occur while camping. Doing this resets the auto hitch height and to the new spot where auto level was started.

A little confusing but hopefully this answers the question.

Brian

[TedS]

Ted, I noticed the same issue, so I try to place a block under the effected side to try to take up all the slack space and get both landing feet to bottom out as close together as possible. The one time I didn't do this, I happened to have a low battery fault and had to "retract all" to clear the fault - and when I did one of the front jacks came off the ground and left the front of the trailer supported by only one jack. I did NOT like that!

My process is to drop the inner legs to be about equidistant from the ground so that the extending legs contact nearly the same time.

[Hogdrv]

Kinda along the same lines, before lowering the front landing gear my dealer said to drop the inside legs to show 10 or more holes before lowering the the outside gear, but my manual says no more than 6 holes showing what does everyone else do?

Jim

[TedS]

It depends on the site. If the site nearly level, maybe 6 - 8 holes. If the site is usually not level, place inner legs same distance from the ground; number of holes depends on how much extension is needed(guess) to get to level without an out of stroke error.

[Country Campers]

Six holes is recommended because of stability of the RV, if more holes are showing the RV may "rock" a little bit more. I try to stay around 6 holes.

Brian

[Jlawles2]

I think I run 7 holes. Depends on the site normally, However I do run a set of home made blocks https://gdrvowners.com/tools-parts-o...k-needed/page3 Post #31 and the front are 1 board taller. These help me minimize the stick out of the stabilizer greatly increasing stability.

[rigmaroll]

Reflection manual on-line indicates to start with a level or mostly level (?) surface, then use quick release pins to manually lower inner legs to within 4-5" of ground before extending the rest of the way under power. Instructions to us from GD dealer last September were the other way around - first extend under power about 6" then drop the rest of the way to ground - or as close as can with holes 1" apart. [Doing that we have typically ended up with 7-9 complete holes showing] Then autolevel. Order perhaps less important than not ending up with longer/less stable legs than needed to achieve level rig & also keep significant rig weight borne by wheels (I typically check that can't turn them by hand once autolevel complete). Probably difficult to define how much initial out of level the system should be able to handle with all the variables involved. Hitch height function is nice but almost always need to fine tune anyway. Perhaps someone from GD can advise if autolevel should only be started with rig front slightly high. FYI panel displays (& presumably measures accurately) to one tenth of a degree = about 1.7mm rise/fall per 1m run.

Follow-up to incident that started this thread: Regarding the related suspension issue, happy to report that a slow roll of the 'other' wheels/axle over a 2.5" speedbump (made of levelling blocks) did indeed correct the issue - linkages flipped back the way they should be.

[Jlawles2]

Good to hear the links flipped. I've done it both ways, and lifting the opposing seems to be the least "violent" method of the 2. Neither is "friendly" and both will send you to the bathroom the first time you are under there with a jack (stabilizers extended), or close to it when it happens. I've had to do it 3 times now and only the last time did I find the other axle method.