Norcold refrigerator

[howson]

Howard.....the simple answer is yes, it could be one of the internal fans.....the fresh food fan or the freezer section fan.....but as I reported in one of my earlier posts, I have seen where several times it has been one of the three rear fans in the compartment area behind the fridge. So to me, that is the most logical place to start, since that appears to be a common "troublespot" with this frig. And in answer to your question about where does the power come from for the three rear fans.....If you follow the 12V line on the load side of the 5 amp fuse, it goes through relay "K3" (a normally open set of contacts), then down towards terminal point #9. Right before the wire ends up at terminal point #9, look closely and you will see the little black "dot", which indicates a connection point. At that connection point, the wire then goes over to Terminal point #5, which is the feed for the three outside fans. Your drawing that has been highlighted in RED, covers up that little dot or connection point and it isn't visible in the drawing that you posted. I'm looking at my schematic drawing that I have saved on the computer and it is definitely connected at that point. Hope that helps clear up where the 12V comes from off of the 5A fuse and how it gets to the three fan motors.

And I suspect the reason for the higher incident of failure rate on the external fans is because of the environment that they live in.....dirt, dust, high temperature, possibly moisture.....and the fact that they are likely the cheapest fans that could be sourced for the unit at the time it was built.

So the "Ks" are contacts! Why have I never seen this used like this before? A simple google image search shows that indeed, the "capacitor" symbol is also used as a contact symbol. Now I get it--thank you! That was driving me crazy...

I do now see that dot at the connection above wire 9--that's a small dot.

The external fan circuit *should* be easy to check--pull P1 and then measure across pin 6 (on the plug, not the board) to pin 3. Assuming the two temp switches are open ("R" and "Q"), the multimeter should read an open. Assumes the Dispenser Switch ("P") is open, too.

[howson]

The "K" relays that are shown are in fact contacts. The symbol for a capacitor is....... ----| (---- one straight line and one curved line. Contacts are ---| |---- or ---|/|--- The first symbol being a N.O. or Normally Open, and the second one is N.C. or Normally Closed. These are always represented in a "Power Off" configuration or "deenergized" if you will.

And as far as measuring across pin 6 and pin 3, I definitely would not approach it that way. That method would be taking a reading of all the fans instead of just one of them at a time.....plus all the other stuff downstream. The best way would be to check each individual fan circuit, at the fan itself, then do a comparison of the ohm values of each fan, as compared to the other fans. I suspect that the smaller fan, at the bottom will have a different ohmic value than the two larger fans at the top of the frig rear. .....so you wouldn't be able to compare it, to the two larger fans. The two larger fans should be within a .1 or so value of the other one. After that, if they compare equally, then maybe test for resistance (Ohm value) to ground and see if that is the same.

Having said all of that, my testing method and order would be determined as to whether the 5A fuse blew instantly, or whether it took some amount of time for it to blow. Instantly usually indicates a direct short to ground. A time based issue would more like indicate something going on inside the motor, causing it to pull more and more current as time elapses......maybe a bearing seizing up as it gets hot.

That's what happens when you chase paperwork for two decades instead of doing "real" work. Thanks for the update on the symbols--makes complete sense now.

Regarding how to troubleshoot the fan circuit--we'll agree to disagree.

[KamFlyer]

The "K" relays that are shown are in fact contacts. The symbol for a capacitor is....... ----| (---- one straight line and one curved line. Contacts are ---| |---- or ---|/|--- The first symbol being a N.O. or Normally Open, and the second one is N.C. or Normally Closed. These are always represented in a "Power Off" configuration or "deenergized" if you will.

Actually the ---||--- standard symbol is used everywhere to signify a non-polarized capacitor such as ceramic, mica, film, etc whereas ---|(--- is used for polarized types such as electrolytic, tantalum, etc. The ---| side being the positive side and the (--- the negative.
There are many switch symbols some of which can be seen here > https://www.rapidtables.com/electric...h_Symbols.html
-Rob-
(35 yrs in the electronics/technology industry)

[Bob P]

I have a 2020 337RLS that is blowing the 5a fuse. The fridge is a Norcold 1210 We are in FL for at least 4 more days.. It worked without issue for the past 2 weeks and woke this morning to no power to fridge. new 5a lasted 1 hour then blew again

[howson]

I have a 2020 337RLS that is blowing the 5a fuse. The fridge is a Norcold 1210 We are in FL for at least 4 more days.. It worked without issue for the past 2 weeks and woke this morning to no power to fridge. new 5a lasted 1 hour then blew again

Having done more reading (googling) Triplethreat is most likely correct with his diagnosis. The below was "stolen" from another website:

Norcold ...suggested ... the cooling fans often fail causing the {5A} fuse to blow. There are three fans behind the exterior access panels; one low and two larger fans up top. ...fuse was ... fine until the fans initiated and immediately blew the fuse. Two of the three fans will come on but one of the upper fans will not spin and needs replaced. He unplugged the bad fan so the fridge can run...

Howard

P.S. KamFlyer and Triplethreat -- thank you for your posts today. Humbling to learn how much I don't know, but that's what I like so much about these forums. I get to learn more (almost daily it seems) from some really smart individuals.

[howson]

Having done more reading (googling) Triplethreat is most likely correct with his diagnosis. The below was "stolen" from another website:

Norcold ...suggested ... the cooling fans often fail causing the {5A} fuse to blow. There are three fans behind the exterior access panels; one low and two larger fans up top. ...fuse was ... fine until the fans initiated and immediately blew the fuse. Two of the three fans will come on but one of the upper fans will not spin and needs replaced. He unplugged the bad fan so the fridge can run...

Howard

P.S. KamFlyer and Triplethreat -- thank you for your posts today. Humbling to learn how much I don't know, but that's what I like so much about these forums. I get to learn more (almost daily it seems) from some really smart individuals.

ammodude -- I'd check those fans first...(meant to tag you in the post 28...)

[ammodude]

I can't thank you guys enough for taking the time to research and work through this. I'll let you know what the results are. Hopefully as simple as a fan replacement. Bob P....let us know if you find the cause for your issue as well!

[Bob P]

I can't thank you guys enough for taking the time to research and work through this. I'll let you know what the results are. Hopefully as simple as a fan replacement. Bob P....let us know if you find the cause for your issue as well!

After talking to Norcold, they said that one of the fans is bad. I went in and disconnected one and the other is running fine. The guy that GD tech support gave me to call for mobile service was, to put it mildly, a tool. As soon as he heard it was Norcold, he went on a rant as to haw bad they suck and you can never get parts from them, yada, yada..... and said they won't pay for diagnostics and shipping. According to the warranty, they do and the guy at Norcold I spoke to said they will pay 4 hours for diagnostics and part install. Just left a bad taste if you know what I mean. I said screw it and ordered 2 new fans, (1 for spare), for what the mobile fee would have been. My time to take it somewhere is worth more than that!!! It will take all of 5 minutes to swap out.

[howson]

After talking to Norcold, they said that one of the fans is bad. I went in and disconnected one and the other is running fine. The guy that GD tech support gave me to call for mobile service was, to put it mildly, a tool. As soon as he heard it was Norcold, he went on a rant as to haw bad they suck and you can never get parts from them, yada, yada..... and said they won't pay for diagnostics and shipping. According to the warranty, they do and the guy at Norcold I spoke to said they will pay 4 hours for diagnostics and part install. Just left a bad taste if you know what I mean. I said screw it and ordered 2 new fans, (1 for spare), for what the mobile fee would have been. My time to take it somewhere is worth more than that!!! It will take all of 5 minutes to swap out.

I'd have done the exact same thing. Buy quality fans and install them with the proper crimps/heat shrink and never worry about it again (hopefully).

[ammodude]

If one of have the info for the fans handy, could you please post.

[Bob P]

If one of have the info for the fans handy, could you please post.

I ordered 2 fans from CamperID, part of CarID.2 fans + shipping were $158. Probably about what the cost would have been for mobile service. After disconnecting the one fan, the fridge has been running without issue. If you look at Norcolds site, they discontinued one fan part # and replaced with this one..... Norcold Part Number: 628685. Search around for this part # and you can find for much less that dealer or NorcoldGuy, they are almost 2x the price I paid. If you do go off the ranch to find a substitute, make sure you get one that has same amp draw and flows the same cfm. More CFM would be good, less not so much. The factory ones are spec'd at about 125 cfm each.

[Bob P]

I just have to give a complimentary shout-out to GD and Jamie J. specifically. With our fridge issues and replacing the fans myself, I figured I would reach out to them to see if they would reimburse me for the parts. Just got word today that they are sending a check out today! While I can say I expected to be reimbursed on principal, many mfg.'s would tell you too bad, you aren't a certified tech. Pleasant surprise.

[mpking]

Silly question..... Why'd Triplethreat's comments disappear? (I can see the quoted info he provided was quite good)

[TucsonJim]

Silly question..... Why'd Triplethreat's comments disappear? (I can see the quoted info he provided was quite good)

I sent you a PM regarding this topic.

Jim