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  • howson
    replied
    Originally posted by ammodude View Post
    ...they can't touch it for 6-8 weeks.
    Thinking about this a bit more...the goal here is to get the refrigerator fixed, not to become expert troubleshooters on a Norcold refrigerator. The dealer's response that it could be 6-8 weeks to look at a non-functioning refrigerator is unacceptable (IMO).

    The other factor in play here is even if we can isolate exactly what is wrong, Norcold may not ship a replacement part. Some component OEMs will only ship to "authorized repair centers" or personnel.

    What I recommend you do is call GD Customer Service (see the forum's home page with phone # on the "business card") and explain to them what's going on. Have your VIN handy as they will require it.

    Ask if GD knows of a Norcold-authorized mobile repair service. (In San Antonio--there has to be one!) GD *should* authorize a warranty service call by the mobile repair service, though you may have to pay a "service fee" that GD will not cover. (The service fee is the cost of the repair person coming to you vs you taking the rig to them.) The actual labor and parts, if required, won't cost anything.

    Hope you get this resolved quickly.

    Howard



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  • howson
    replied
    Originally posted by ammodude View Post
    Great input guys....thanks so much! Hopefully I can figure this out. Called the dealer and they can't touch it for 6-8 weeks.
    It looks like you can disconnect P4 on the Power Board to isolate two of the fans.

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  • ammodude
    replied
    Great input guys....thanks so much! Hopefully I can figure this out. Called the dealer and they can't touch it for 6-8 weeks.

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  • howson
    replied
    Originally posted by Triplethreat

    Ammodude........many times that 5A fuse will blow because of an issue with one or more of the cooling fans on the back side of the frig....There are two up high, and a tiny one down low.....and all three of them are fed, through circuitry, from the 5A fuse. That would be the first place I would look.
    Great input--mine was purely speculation. Do the fans have connectors on them or are they hard-wired?

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  • ammodude
    replied
    Thanks Chief! I'm a retired senior but still in the ammo business (Randolph) for six more months.... Thanks for the instructions. I'll work through them this weekend. IYAAYAS!!!

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  • howson
    replied
    I don't know the answer, but can speculate based on what I see in the manual. (Pic below)

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    First, I assume there's a short in the 12v power wire (since the fuse blows immediately) or there's a serious problem in either the Power Board or Display Board.

    MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF before proceeding!

    Check for continuity (assuming you have a multimeter) from pin 6 on the power board to pin 1. If there's zero resistance that's a bad thing...that's a short. What you should read is infinite resistance (an "open").

    If there's a short, either the wire from the Power Board to the Display Board is pinched or shorted to ground somewhere or there's a problem on the Display Board. If you can find P1 on the Display Board, disconnect it and check continuity again. If there's still a short--it's likely in the wire. If it changed to an open, the fault is probably in the Display Board.

    If the initial meter reading was an open, install a new fuse (POWER OFF!) and check for continuity again from pin 6 to pin 1. If there's a short now, I suspect the Power Board is bad.

    I was Avionics, so very tempted to tease you a bit about the Ammodude! forum name, but I'll resist until you know it's all tongue-in-cheek. (I'm a retired USAF Maintenance CMSgt.)

    iyaayas!

    Howard

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  • ammodude
    replied
    Yes....it's a 2118

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  • howson
    replied
    Originally posted by ammodude View Post
    Any resolution to the fuse issue in this thread? I currently have the same problem. The 5-amp fuse in the power control box is blowing. I just happed to be looking at the fridge when it happened last time and I saw just for a second, an error code flickered "LO DC". The battery was at 13.5V. Not sure which occurred first, the LO DC or the fuse blowing.....assuming the fuse....what's causing it?

    2020 GD Solitude 310GK
    2018 Ford F350 DRW
    I know this thread is referencing the Norcold 2118--is that also the 'frig in your Solitude?

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  • ammodude
    replied
    Any resolution to the fuse issue in this thread? I currently have the same problem. The 5-amp fuse in the power control box is blowing. I just happed to be looking at the fridge when it happened last time and I saw just for a second, an error code flickered "LO DC". The battery was at 13.5V. Not sure which occurred first, the LO DC or the fuse blowing.....assuming the fuse....what's causing it?

    2020 GD Solitude 310GK
    2018 Ford F350 DRW

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  • howson
    replied
    Originally posted by Donnie View Post
    I am having the same issue with my 2020 Grand Reflection blowing the 5 amp fuse on the circuit board as well, been waiting on a tech for 3 days.
    Donnie--what model Reflection do you have? The more information you provide the better forum members can provide feedback.

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  • Donnie
    replied
    I am having the same issue with my 2020 Grand Reflection blowing the 5 amp fuse on the circuit board as well, been waiting on a tech for 3 days.

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  • colan
    replied
    To add to Rob’s question in what operation mode: gas, electric or both?

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  • Cate&Rob
    replied
    Is this the fuse on the fridge circuit board or the fuse in the main 12V panel ?

    Rob

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  • jfrf0816
    started a topic Norcold refrigerator

    Norcold refrigerator

    We have a 2020 GD reflection.
    The refrigerator has started blowing fuse often.
    The dealer replaced the limit switch but did not fix the problem. Any advice?
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