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  • #16
    Originally posted by ncitro View Post

    No voltage there means the problem is not in your fridge. Either the fuse in the main panel is blown ( you said you checked this), or you’ve got a wiring problem. Bad splice, or a broken wire. Not sure what rig you have, but if your fridge is in the slide, I would start underneath the slide. There’s sometimes a plug under there that maybe came loose?
    Thanks, the fuse controlling the heater and fridge was blown. I replaced it and the heater works but the fridge is still out. I am thinking that whatever happened with the fridge blew the fuse.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by philwa55 View Post

      Thanks, the fuse controlling the heater and fridge was blown. I replaced it and the heater works but the fridge is still out. I am thinking that whatever happened with the fridge blew the fuse.
      Do you have voltage at the terminal strip now? If so, the recheck the fuses on the board. Turn the fridge on again and see if the main fuse blows again.
      2018 Reflection 28bh
      2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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      • #18
        Originally posted by philwa55 View Post

        Thanks, the fuse controlling the heater and fridge was blown. I replaced it and the heater works but the fridge is still out. I am thinking that whatever happened with the fridge blew the fuse.
        The heater is a 120V circuit controlled by the 12V control board through relays. I am trying to understand what you mean by "the heater works, but the fridge is still out".
        Perncitro Neil's question, do you now have 12V at the back of fridge connections shown earlier?

        Rob
        Cate & Rob
        (with Border Collies Molly & Angel and their kitty Gracie)
        2015 Reflection 303RLS
        2014 Ecoboost F150 with Heavy Duty Payload Package
        Whitby, Ontario, Canada

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        • #19
          There is a 15amp fuse in the circuit breaker box for the heater and fridge. I replaced that and now the heater works and I am getting 12.7 volts at the strip but still no lights or power to the fridge. I checked the 3 and 5 amp fuses again and they are fine but there is no voltage going across the 5 amp fuse.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post

            The heater is a 120V circuit controlled by the 12V control board through relays. I am trying to understand what you mean by "the heater works, but the fridge is still out".
            Perncitro Neil's question, do you now have 12V at the back of fridge connections shown earlier?

            Rob
            Yes, there is 12volts at the connections

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            • #21
              Originally posted by philwa55 View Post
              There is a 15amp fuse in the circuit breaker box for the heater and fridge. I replaced that and now the heater works and I am getting 12.7 volts at the strip but still no lights or power to the fridge. I checked the 3 and 5 amp fuses again and they are fine but there is no voltage going across the 5 amp fuse.
              What about at the red wire ("3" on the schematic) where +12V enters the main board? If there's not 12V between that point and chassis ground, then is it at the terminal block (start of the circuit)? If it's at the terminal block but not at the fuses, then it's being lost somewhere between the terminal block and fuse, most likely at the Thermal Fuse or thermofuse (U and F).
              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

              Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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              • #22
                Originally posted by philwa55 View Post
                There is a 15amp fuse in the circuit breaker box for the heater and fridge. I replaced that and now the heater works and I am getting 12.7 volts at the strip but still no lights or power to the fridge. I checked the 3 and 5 amp fuses again and they are fine but there is no voltage going across the 5 amp fuse.
                If you have voltage going to this 5 amp fuse but not going thru it then you have a bad fuse. It may look ok but replacing may solve the problem.

                Brian
                Brian & Michelle
                2018 Reflection 29RS Oct.17 build date, EMS-HW50C , Lippert Remote
                2015 Chevy 3500HD CC LB Duramax , Reese Elite 18K

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                • #23
                  Replaced all the fuses just to be safe, no luck. I traced as many connections as I could and they all had power. Finally gave up and called GD. They said that they would pay for everything but the mobile service fee. Have a tech coming out tomorrow. Thanks for all the help everyone 👍

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by philwa55 View Post
                    Replaced all the fuses just to be safe, no luck. I traced as many connections as I could and they all had power. Finally gave up and called GD. They said that they would pay for everything but the mobile service fee. Have a tech coming out tomorrow. Thanks for all the help everyone 👍
                    Please let us know what the serviceperson finds!
                    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                    Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by howson View Post

                      Please let us know what the serviceperson finds!
                      Okay, you got it!

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                      • #26
                        The tech said that the switch in the eyebrow had failed. No easy fix. Dometic told him that I had to take it to a qualified service center in order not to void my warranty. I know that Grand Design is not at fault but it is somewhat frustrating considering the trailer is only six months old.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by philwa55 View Post
                          The tech said that the switch in the eyebrow had failed. No easy fix. Dometic told him that I had to take it to a qualified service center in order not to void my warranty. I know that Grand Design is not at fault but it is somewhat frustrating considering the trailer is only six months old.
                          I assume eyebrow there is a typo, but regardless I’m surprised a Grand Design would send a mobile tech that isn’t authorized. I’ve never heard of any parts in the fridge that we’re not field serviceable.
                          2018 Reflection 28bh
                          2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by philwa55 View Post
                            The tech said that the switch in the eyebrow had failed...
                            Not sure what that means. Can you elaborate? Where is this switch on the refrigerator?

                            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                            Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by ncitro View Post

                              I assume eyebrow there is a typo, but regardless I’m surprised a Grand Design would send a mobile tech that isn’t authorized. I’ve never heard of any parts in the fridge that we’re not field serviceable.
                              Today, 11:39 AM
                              The eyebrow is the set of switches (on, off ) inside the freezer compartment. Because we are camping out in the middle of nowhere GD didn’t have a local tech so they told to get whoever I could find and they would reimburse me. The guy I found was knowledgeable but was not on Dometics list of authorized service personnel so they would not send him the part. They told me to take it to an authorized service center to avoid losing my warranty. The frustrating thing is that it is a simple snap out snap in part but every service center I called had at least a two week wait before they could even look at it.

                              philwa55--I deleted the duplicates for ease of reading this thread. Hope you don't mind. -Howard
                              Last edited by howson; 05-23-2020, 01:40 PM.

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                              • #30
                                I would call Dometic and explain the situation to them , maybe they will authorize sending the new part to you. Worth a shot if you have not done so already.

                                Brian
                                Brian & Michelle
                                2018 Reflection 29RS Oct.17 build date, EMS-HW50C , Lippert Remote
                                2015 Chevy 3500HD CC LB Duramax , Reese Elite 18K

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