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  • Dometic 1350 fridge cooling issue

    I’ve been having problems, since we got the trailer over a year ago, getting the temp cold enough in the fridge. Lots of discussion on “another” forum about possible remedies, including adding additional cooling fans, moving the thermistor, etc. The thermistor is attached to the ceiling in the fridge, so there is no ability to move it up or down on the cooling fins, as some have suggested. Differing opinions of whether disconnecting the thermistor will cause constant cooling (thus showing that the unit is able to produce proper cooling) to unplugging the thermistor causing an entire shut-down, as the unit might see it as a fault.

    I have the unit set at the highest number setting (5) and it hardly gets below 40 in the fridge and 10 in the freezer. There is no separate setting available for the freezer. This is more than frustrating, as it was just to the dealer for this issue. They replaced all fan mounts (one was broken another was cracked) and put better sealing around the top-most baffle. I’m at a loss as to how to cool this sucker down. Tonight I’ve pulled the thermistor out of it’s mount and wrapped a dry wash cloth around it to see if will cool any better with the thermistor somewhat insulated, possibly causing the unit to run longer.

    Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
    Tom and Janice (also known as Richter on the “Other” forum)

    First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
    Now a 2019 Reflection 303RLS, second air, double glass, table and chairs
    2019 F350 Lariat 4x4 Crewcab with lots of goodies
    Andersen aluminum with the puck system holding it all together
    Cranberry Twp. PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh

  • #2
    Tom in PGH
    Hi Tom and Janice

    The latest update from Grand Design (and Dometic) is to remove the vertical baffle that covers part of the upper outside opening. There has been mixed feedback from owners as to whether or not this modification creates an improvement in fridge temperatures.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
    2015 Reflection 303RLS
    2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
    Bayham, Ontario, Canada

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Tom in PGH View Post
      I’ve been having problems, since we got the trailer over a year ago, getting the temp cold enough in the fridge. Lots of discussion on “another” forum about possible remedies, including adding additional cooling fans, moving the thermistor, etc. The thermistor is attached to the ceiling in the fridge, so there is no ability to move it up or down on the cooling fins, as some have suggested. Differing opinions of whether disconnecting the thermistor will cause constant cooling (thus showing that the unit is able to produce proper cooling) to unplugging the thermistor causing an entire shut-down, as the unit might see it as a fault.

      I have the unit set at the highest number setting (5) and it hardly gets below 40 in the fridge and 10 in the freezer. There is no separate setting available for the freezer. This is more than frustrating, as it was just to the dealer for this issue. They replaced all fan mounts (one was broken another was cracked) and put better sealing around the top-most baffle. I’m at a loss as to how to cool this sucker down. Tonight I’ve pulled the thermistor out of it’s mount and wrapped a dry wash cloth around it to see if will cool any better with the thermistor somewhat insulated, possibly causing the unit to run longer.

      Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
      In line with what Rob noted, a few suggested threads:

      https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ntenance-video

      https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...p-with-cooling

      The second link is a long, comprehensive discussion on the topic. If your refrigerator is installed like mine, post 48 in that second thread has a video showing how to remove the baffle.

      Finally, I added extra fans in my 1350 as well as a temperature monitor/safety shutdown device called "Fridge Defend". Details here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...a-2019-315rlts

      That should keep you reading for a while! Please post back with further questions or what you did that finally fixed the problem.

      Howard



      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

      2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by howson View Post

        In line with what Rob noted, a few suggested threads:

        https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ntenance-video

        https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...p-with-cooling

        The second link is a long, comprehensive discussion on the topic. If your refrigerator is installed like mine, post 48 in that second thread has a video showing how to remove the baffle.

        Finally, I added extra fans in my 1350 as well as a temperature monitor/safety shutdown device called "Fridge Defend". Details here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...a-2019-315rlts

        That should keep you reading for a while! Please post back with further questions or what you did that finally fixed the problem.

        Howard


        Thanks. I followed your earlier thread, as you were doing it. I’m aware that some have taken out the plywood baffle and that some have attempted to put it back, as less air is directed to the fins, which seems to be the primary source of the cooling effect. True, it allows for additional air movement, but if it doesn’t move the air across the cooling fins, it may not do much good. I was trying to go from the simplest fix first, then move toward actual larger-scale modifications.

        Insulating the thermistor seems to be a potential solution, as the temp inside is 37 in the fridge and 8 in the freezer this morning. I have two wireless thermometers so that I don’t have to keep opening the doors to check the progress. It’s supposed to be hot and humid here today, so I’ll see how it holds up in higher temps.
        Tom and Janice (also known as Richter on the “Other” forum)

        First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
        Now a 2019 Reflection 303RLS, second air, double glass, table and chairs
        2019 F350 Lariat 4x4 Crewcab with lots of goodies
        Andersen aluminum with the puck system holding it all together
        Cranberry Twp. PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Tom in PGH View Post

          Thanks. I followed your earlier thread, as you were doing it. I’m aware that some have taken out the plywood baffle and that some have attempted to put it back, as less air is directed to the fins, which seems to be the primary source of the cooling effect. True, it allows for additional air movement, but if it doesn’t move the air across the cooling fins, it may not do much good. I was trying to go from the simplest fix first, then move toward actual larger-scale modifications.

          Insulating the thermistor seems to be a potential solution, as the temp inside is 37 in the fridge and 8 in the freezer this morning. I have two wireless thermometers so that I don’t have to keep opening the doors to check the progress. It’s supposed to be hot and humid here today, so I’ll see how it holds up in higher temps.
          I feel your pain. I fought and fought with mine and on two separate occasions the temp spiked up into the 50s. Did not matter baffle or no baffle (mine came with sheet metal rather than plywood for some reason), I repacked the cavity with fiberglass, electric or propane. Only thing I can say for sure is it was all over the place. I had Dometic look at it at the rally, just no luck. I eventually lost faith in it enough that I pulled the thing out and put a residential in. Best decision I ever made. A fraction of the cost, easily twice the space, and no more worrying. Not an option for everyone I know, but I just do not have the confidence in the larger absorption refrigerators especially when installed in slide outs.
          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

          Neil Citro
          2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
          2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

          Comment


          • #6
            I have a 202 mk2670. I removed my upper baffle before ever reading these threads just thinking it would help airflow. So, I haven't monitored my temps, but food has been staying cold. My fridge is just a 2 door, top and bottom, model 2682 6 cu ft. While looking at the upper vent I noticed the upper sheet metal baffle wasn't touching the top of the fridge, and it due to it's design, actually seems like it goes to far back. It seems the curvature should be closer to the fins. The way it is now, hot air is allowed to go back on top of the fridge to far. When I looked behind the upper baffle, there was also no insulation on top of the freezer/fridge and was all just dead space behind the baffle. So I may add insulation behind the top baffle.
            Attached Files
            2020 Imagine MK2670
            2020 Chevy Silverado 2500 Gas 6.6L

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Tom in PGH View Post

              True, it allows for additional air movement, but if it doesn’t move the air across the cooling fins, it may not do much good.
              Hi Tom,

              Just to be clear . . . as an engineer with considerable years of experience with heat exchangers, allowing air to bypass the cooling fins is not what should be done. I (personally) do not agree with the GDRV/Dometic recommendation to remove the upper opening baffle that directs air though the heat exchanger fins.

              We "volunteer" moderators do get to (respectfully) disagree with the perspectives of the manufacturers .

              Rob

              Cate & Rob
              (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
              2015 Reflection 303RLS
              2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
              Bayham, Ontario, Canada

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post

                Hi Tom,

                Just to be clear . . . as an engineer with considerable years of experience with heat exchangers, allowing air to bypass the cooling fins is not what should be done. I (personally) do not agree with the GDRV/Dometic recommendation to remove the upper opening baffle that directs air though the heat exchanger fins.

                We "volunteer" moderators do get to (respectfully) disagree with the perspectives of the manufacturers .

                Rob
                Kind of confirms my non-engineer, layman thoughts. Just looking at it, with the baffle installed, screams to me, “The baffle forces the air up and through the cooling fins”. If the designer/builder went to the trouble of putting the plywood baffle there, it must have been for a reason. I do understand the upper metal baffle needing to also be in place, in order to keep hot air from accumulating at the top of the unit. However that fix, done by the dealership last week, only had minimal impact.

                It was just over 90 degrees here today, so I tried a couple of different things. I left the rag on the thermistor, so that I could try one thing at a time. Mimicking the “additional fan” idea, I took off both the upper and lower vent covers on the fridge. I wanted to make as large an opening, top and bottom, for airflow, without the vent covers causing any restriction. The baffles are still in place, so all airflow is directed through the cooling fins. Then, using a ladder, I put a box fan directly in front of the upper vent, so that it would suck up as much air as possible. I thought that if that improved temps, it might be worth looking into additional small fans, either pushing from the bottom or sucking from the top.

                The additional airflow did not make any difference on temps in either the fridge or freezer compartment. I took down the fan and put the vent covers back on, and the temps stayed the same. All of this was over the course of the day, so that I allowed about 6-7 hours in each mode. Not even one degree of difference between the fan over the exhaust vent at the top of the fridge, turned on high, and the fan removed and the vent cover reinstalled.

                The only thing that seemed to make a difference was taking the thermistor out of it’s holder and wrapping the dry washcloth around it, as a layer of insulation. I think that caused the fridge to remain on longer that it normally would, thus the lower temps.

                Tomorrow I’m planning on taking the cloth off the thermistor and putting it back into it’s holder on the ceiling of the fridge to see what happens. I predict that it will lose some of the chill, and the overall temps will gradually return to the higher/unacceptable range, but we’ll see.
                Tom and Janice (also known as Richter on the “Other” forum)

                First came the 18' Comfort bumper-pull, was great for 20 years.
                Now a 2019 Reflection 303RLS, second air, double glass, table and chairs
                2019 F350 Lariat 4x4 Crewcab with lots of goodies
                Andersen aluminum with the puck system holding it all together
                Cranberry Twp. PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh

                Comment


                • #9
                  I had much success in 3 different rv refrigerators over the years that seemed to not be cooling to potential. One I took out and rolled it over end over end (single door) and 2 others I used the thermistor replacement by "snip the tip". Look them up.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Has anyone tried JC Refrigeration in Shipshewana, In. I've tried everything posted and online to get our RM 1350 to work to no avail.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      For what it’s worth, as I think I may be one of the only forum members who had trouble with a 1350 and removed it, I have done a bit of an unintentional experiment. With my fridge no matter what I did I could not get it to hold temperature in the heat. I tried additional fans, adjusting the baffle, more insulation, all to no avail. I replaced mine with a residential, and it’s been about a year. I decided to put mine up for sale, figuring someone might want it for parts or something. Suspecting the fridge itself was fine (such as it is), but wanting to be able to demonstrate it cooled I connected it to a 12v power supply and plugged it in at my shop. I can confirm that sitting by itself in my shop with plenty of airspace all around it maintains temp at 33 on level 5 with no issue. I’d definitely say my problem was in the installation of the fridge.
                      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                      Neil Citro
                      2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
                      2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        There is a conversion kit to convert your RV frig from an absorption unit to a 12-volt DC compressor. Here are a couple of links:

                        https://www.rv-partsplus.com/blogs/t...pproach-part-1

                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yte1V3CkDrw

                        Rob
                        Rob & Laura
                        U.S. Army Retired (Rob)
                        2012 F350 DRW CC Lariat PS 6.7, PullRite OE 18K
                        2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS and disc brakes, solar, BB LiFePO4, DP windows
                        (Previously in a 2016 Reflection 337RLS)
                        Full time since 08/2015

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          MissyB I would suggest contacting our support team to see if there is any assistance they can offer with getting you squared away, or a service shop suggestion.

                          Please call them at 574-825-9679

                          Thanks!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ncitro View Post
                            I connected it to a 12v power supply and plugged it in at my shop. I can confirm that sitting by itself in my shop with plenty of airspace all around it maintains temp at 33 on level 5 with no issue. I’d definitely say my problem was in the installation of the fridge.
                            This is very telling.
                            Jim and Ginnie
                            2024 Solitude 310GK
                            GDRV Technical Forum Moderator
                            GDRV Rally Support Coordinator

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by TucsonJim View Post

                              This is very telling.
                              Yeah I agree. I was honestly not sure what to expect when I fired it up, but it seems perfectly content to cool. It’s been two weeks now with no issue.
                              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                              Neil Citro
                              2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
                              2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                              Comment

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