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Please include the year, make and model of your GDRV ("2019 Reflection 315RLTS") along with the make and model of the component with the issue ("Dometic RM1350 refrigerator", "Furrion FMCM15-BL microwave", etc) in your question.
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Haier Refrigerator Install in a 2019 315RLTS

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  • #31
    Originally posted by tgodrich View Post
    Thanks for clarifying. I saw the image stating "gas lines hooked up" and it raised a red flag with the sealed vent. I am not familiar with the fridge itself. Personally I like running mine on gas as it stays cooler, plus with only 30amp RV service at some parks, I do not have to worry about overload when the AC is on, using the microwave, etc. I also do dry camping a lot and do not really want to run a generator all the time. Usually just a few hours a day to charge the batteries and run lights, etc. at night.
    Thanks for taking to time to post your concern. Thankfully it's not an issue. The gas line is for the stove--it just happens to run behind the refrigerator. No worries about carbon monoxide or anything else as Neil pointed out.

    One comment about "...worry about overload when the AC is on...". Surprisingly, the residential draws less than 1/2 the 120vAC required by the Dometic "RV" refrigerator! Read post #1 and post #22 for full details.

    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

    Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by howson View Post

      Thanks for taking to time to post your concern. Thankfully it's not an issue. The gas line is for the stove--it just happens to run behind the refrigerator. No worries about carbon monoxide or anything else as Neil pointed out.

      One comment about "...worry about overload when the AC is on...". Surprisingly, the residential draws less than 1/2 the 120vAC required by the Dometic "RV" refrigerator! Read post #1 and post #22 for full details.
      tgodrich

      Good points, keep in mind Howard is running solar as well as lithium batteries, so the plan would be minimal if any generator use to run the fridge. He was looking for a way to run the fridge on electric while traveling rather than run the propane, and I did mine due to the refrigerator not cooling properly on either gas or electric in warm weather. I can say 30 amp sites are no issue, I have run the fridge (mine uses more power than Howards) and both AC units on low on 30 amp service with no issue.

      Definitely valid concerns to keep in mind when considering the upgrade. I personally will never buy another absorption fridge after my experience. I personally just do not have confidence in the installation in a slide out for the larger units in particular. I think if they are vented through the ceiling or are the smaller units they do great, but the bigger ones are too hit and miss for me to trust food in them.
      Neil Citro
      2018 Reflection 28bh
      2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

      Comment


      • #33
        ncitro

        Thought you might find this interesting. The refrigerator ran all last night (no shore power) on the inverter and batteries. It's now 2 in the afternoon on a nice day here in NW Florida and as you can see my solar system recharged the batteries and also ran the refrigerator (as well as both interior MaxxAir fans) and other minor things in the trailer.

        For those that may not understand--the solar output has tailed off since there's no more room for the solar output in the batteries.

        Bottom line is I think there is plenty of battery capacity for the furnace (if needed) overnight if I was boondocking, which this test simulated.


        Click image for larger version  Name:	Chart 1.JPG Views:	0 Size:	56.5 KB ID:	32246


        Below is what Victron's VRM website showed me this morning (note no PV output yet as it was still dark outside). Interestingly you can see where the compressor ran in the refrigerator (note the column chart under the "73W" in the AC Loads box.


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        For comparison, here is the same screenshot as it was just now:

        Click image for larger version  Name:	Now.JPG Views:	0 Size:	43.3 KB ID:	32248

        Howard
        Last edited by howson; 10-17-2020, 06:30 PM.
        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

        Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

        Comment


        • #34
          Finishing Work Continued Day 4, Post 1 of 3
          Threshold Repair


          Back in post #8 I noted how I'd messed up the threshold. The fix was relatively simple--I drilled two pilot holes in the ends and using Robertson wood screws secured the threshold down to the trailer's floor. As normal, I coated the screws in silicone before installing. I also sealed the edges of the threshold. The screws do not interfere with the door's seal against the trailer.

          The reason I went this route is so if I need to remove the threshold in the future the screws are accessible. I'm cognizant of the water-intrusion threat, so I was quite liberal applying the sealant on the screws and edges!

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          Click image for larger version  Name:	Threshold Fix2.JPG Views:	0 Size:	148.0 KB ID:	32255
          Last edited by howson; 10-17-2020, 05:09 PM.
          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

          Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

          Comment


          • #35
            Finishing Work Continued Day 4, Post 2 of 3
            Insulating the Dometic Vents (Rework!)


            As noted in an update of post 27, I reworked the insulation on the Dometic vents that I left in place. What was happening is the seal between the removable piece and the outer frame was poor, which was evident by the amount of light that could be seen when peering around the edge of the refrigerator from inside the camper.

            What I did instead was tape up all the vents with Gorilla exterior tape. Then placed one sheet of Reflectix over top of the entire assembly, taping (sealing) the edges. Obviously I'll have to cut the Reflectix to access the refrigerator should that be necessary (or remove the entire vent frame) but that's a small trade-off.

            What's not shown (forgot to take a pic!) is I also loosely taped another layer of Reflectix to the back of the removable vent.

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            Click image for larger version  Name:	Vent 2.JPG Views:	0 Size:	378.5 KB ID:	32262

            Click image for larger version  Name:	Vent 3.JPG Views:	0 Size:	452.4 KB ID:	32263

            Not shown in the picture below, but (hopefully) it is obvious that the removable vents were installed after this picture was taken!

            Click image for larger version  Name:	Vent 4.JPG Views:	0 Size:	52.2 KB ID:	32260
            Last edited by howson; 10-17-2020, 05:14 PM.
            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

            Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

            Comment


            • #36
              Finishing Work Continued Day 4, Post 3 of 3
              Addressing Refrigerator Rocking


              The refrigerator's base won't shift position--as documented in an earlier post the feet are screwed to the floor. (Another suggestion from ncitro !) But as Neil cautioned, the top rocked--significantly--when the slide was pulled in. (It could still rock when out, but why would it when the trailer is stationary?)

              The pool noodles I'd initially tried were too flexible and allowed too much movement. So this attempt is with rubber door stops.

              First thing to know: the back of the refrigerator is significantly closer to the top of the slide than the front of the refrigerator. Obviously the slide's roof is slanted. I can't even shove my fingers between the refrigerator and the ceiling at the back!

              Click image for larger version  Name:	TIght FIt.JPG Views:	0 Size:	122.9 KB ID:	32266
              I tried wedging the door stops in from the rear (prior to installing the vents as previously documented) but I could not get them in. So they went in from the front. The stops I'd bought were too big, too, so I cut them down.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	Door Stops.JPG Views:	0 Size:	22.6 KB ID:	32267

              After pushing them in as far as I could with my fingers, I cobbled together a couple of ratchet extensions and "encouraged" (pushed, gently hammered) the wedges back as far as they would go. The refrigerator is now rock solid and doesn't move! (Might be fun trying to get those wedges out, though!) The picture below was taken before I installed the rear vent so that's why there's light in the back.

              Also note that I was deliberate and careful with my "encouragement"--didn't want to inadvertently damage the refrigerator or slide ceiling.

              No doubt there's other (and probably better) ways to accomplish the job of stop the refrigerator rocking.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	Encouragement.JPG Views:	0 Size:	75.5 KB ID:	32268

              Howard

              P.S. The only task left is the trim on the left side of the refrigerator. That's a minor job that I won't bother posting about...I'm pretty sure anyone that's read this far will know how to install trim and what it will look like. Any questions or comments--fire away. As always, if there's an issue as the refrigerator is used I'll be sure to update this thread.

              P.P.S. One more note--I also tested the propane. The stove and furnace work and with the bottles left open there were no leaks (no smell detected in the interior) over a 12 hour period. Yea!
              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

              Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

              Comment


              • #37
                Looking great! Those are outstanding power numbers. I’m assuming you saw what I did to cover the access holes. I used some pink styrofoam insulation which I was able to cut to fit the hole exactly and gave it probably a higher R value than the wall has lol. Then I screwed plexiglass panels to the outside with butyl tape between the plexiglass and the side of the trailer. Removable if need be (and I have had to a few times). I originally tried filling the inside of the covers with black spray foam and gorilla tape but it didn’t take well. Just another option for you if the reflectix does not work.
                Neil Citro
                2018 Reflection 28bh
                2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                Comment


                • #38
                  I forgot about the relay!

                  Some of you may remember I wired up a relay system to disconnect 120vAC power from the Dometic (so it would switch to propane) when shore power was lost. The purpose was to extend the run time of the batteries and the inverter. (If you want the full story, see this thread: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...er-overloading)

                  With a residential refrigerator having it running on propane is no longer an option (obviously) and I do not want the refrigerator turning off when shore power is lost (I want it to get power from the inverter and batteries), so I disconnected the relay from the circuit. Very easy to do--just moved the output wire back to the OEM circuit breaker. I left the relay in place--I've now got a "hot spare" ready to go if needed.

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                  Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                  Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Very nice! I have thought about doing something similar with the relays, I do not have the dog situation, but should the power go out while we are out and about I would want the fridge to run as long as possible (ie not have the AC running).
                    Neil Citro
                    2018 Reflection 28bh
                    2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Thanks again. Great project and well documented. We are back from our trip and I am ready to get started. I have looked at various possibilities but I think I am going to go with the Harier. I just need to settle on an inverter and auto-switch and we are good to go.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Richard View Post
                        Thanks again. Great project and well documented. We are back from our trip and I am ready to get started. I have looked at various possibilities but I think I am going to go with the Harier. I just need to settle on an inverter and auto-switch and we are good to go.
                        I cannot say enough good things about the Victron. Prior to the Victron I had a Magnum that was rock solid as well, but I wanted to move to power assist, and I already had the Victron battery monitor and solar controller so I went that route. I had an issue with my original unit, ordered from Amazon, and found out the hard way they do not provide any support themselves, you have to get support from the place you bought it. I returned mine and reordered from AMSolar, and the new unit has been flawless. The PowerAssist is a great feature and well worth it.
                        Neil Citro
                        2018 Reflection 28bh
                        2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Richard

                          Just a reminder that as of 21 Oct this is a new modification, so there are as-yet-to-be-discovered problems.

                          Yesterday was the first travel day with the new refrigerator. Power usage was outstanding--traveled with just solar and arrived with 100% battery SOC. That's never happened in the past!

                          Unfortunately there are a few problems.

                          1) Doors opened--the pool noodle "stops" didn't work. For now the doors are held closed with dual-lock tape across the outside of the doors. (Easy enough to peel off later.)

                          2) The floor of the slide is significantly bowed under the refrigerator. I'm not sure if it's because the slide is out of alignment or what the issue is. (I'll be starting a new thread on the slide and will link it here later.)

                          3) The refrigerator impacted the island--even with all the reinforcement to try and stop its movement. Something between the refrigerator and island will be needed to stop this from happening again. (Unfortunately there's a small dent in the left hand door that will now be there as long as we have this refrigerator.)

                          This is all part of the "joy" of doing an mod...even when it looks simple it's not. There's usually something that requires rework since this mod is not engineered and I'm at best a "shadetree RV hack". So proceed with caution and consider these issues before tackling your own project.

                          Howard
                          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                          Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Great work howson. I'm still compiling data on my install but so far it looks good. I am seeing better consumption numbers than published so far, 35 - 40 kWH/month vs the published 55. I haven't had a lot of chance to try it out off-grid yet but the 2 short trips we did, I was back to full charge easily the next day on our solar plant.
                            I finally was able to get my last 2 pieces of trim cut so hopefully should have that cleaned up in a couple of days.
                            -Rob-
                            -
                            Rob, Chris and fur baby Maya
                            2019 Solitude 374TH, Magnum MS2812, 400AH of Battle Born LiFePO4, 1800W Solar, Blue Sky CC's, WineGuard Trav'ler (Shaw)
                            2020 GMC Denali Duramax 4x4 DRW LB CC, Curt Q25
                            Follow us at https://rctravels.rmcd.ca/

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by howson View Post
                              Richard

                              Just a reminder that as of 21 Oct this is a new modification, so there are as-yet-to-be-discovered problems.

                              Yesterday was the first travel day with the new refrigerator. Power usage was outstanding--traveled with just solar and arrived with 100% battery SOC. That's never happened in the past!

                              Unfortunately there are a few problems.

                              1) Doors opened--the pool noodle "stops" didn't work. For now the doors are held closed with dual-lock tape across the outside of the doors. (Easy enough to peel off later.)

                              2) The floor of the slide is significantly bowed under the refrigerator. I'm not sure if it's because the slide is out of alignment or what the issue is. (I'll be starting a new thread on the slide and will link it here later.)

                              3) The refrigerator impacted the island--even with all the reinforcement to try and stop its movement. Something between the refrigerator and island will be needed to stop this from happening again. (Unfortunately there's a small dent in the left hand door that will now be there as long as we have this refrigerator.)

                              This is all part of the "joy" of doing an mod...even when it looks simple it's not. There's usually something that requires rework since this mod is not engineered and I'm at best a "shadetree RV hack". So proceed with caution and consider these issues before tackling your own project.

                              Howard
                              Great news on the power usage, not so much on the growing pains. I feel you though, we had a few with ours as well.

                              Is it possible the contact from the island is from the doors opening? Wishful thinking here but would be nice if they were the same issue.

                              The floor being bowed sounds similar to what I experienced with mine. I stick a sheet of 1/2" plywood in front of the slide as I bring it in for it to "sit on" when its in. In my particular case my fridge is at the end of the slide, and I am assuming the rollers are in from it some amount. Without the plywood, the floor of the slide would have to support that weight essentially cantilevered out from the roller. With the plywood when in the fridge sits on the plywood which is on the floor. When the slide goes out, the first thing it does is lift up a little, and moves out, so it comes right off the plywood. This is all assuming you do not have a Schwintek, in that case there would be no rollers and it would not apply.
                              Neil Citro
                              2018 Reflection 28bh
                              2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                "Real world" tracking of the temperature over a couple of days while camping. The high spikes in humidity correspond to opening the refrigerator door. This is what was seen with the Dometic, too.

                                The outstanding difference from what the norm was with the Dometic is the relatively small temp increase with the door open and the rapid recovery. Definitely not true with the Dometic. I'd see large temp spikes with long recovery periods.

                                Not exactly earth-shattering news. I doubt anyone expected anything different. But it's nice to have documented numbers.


                                Click image for larger version

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                                Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                                Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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