Haier Refrigerator Install in a 2019 315RLTS

[howson]

howson Howard, Could you have built a pair of brackets that went from the top and bottom hinges to the walls to secure the fridge in place?

There's little more than a panel for the interior wall. There's so little room getting hardware installed (and then uninstalled if it needed to come out) would be a challenge. Since reinforcing the floor and reinstalling the 'frig there's been no movement.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'd go with a smaller refrigerator if doing this again so I'd have more options to secure it in place. The DW would vociferously disagree about a smaller 'frig--she is thrilled with the large residential.

One of these days I'll figure out how to keep the doors closed without using dual-lock tape, but for now it works fine.

[howson]

A copy of this post and bellis response (and further power consumption charts) are here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...er-consumption

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Inspired by bellis ' recent post showing power consumption and since the DW and I are preparing for a trip, the refrigerator was turned on so she could start packing. Nothing else in the camper is being used to any degree, so the graph below shows a good overview of what the Haier consumes over a 24 hour period. This is almost a worst case scenario since the air conditioner is not running, therefore the interior of the camper is quite warm during the day. The offset could be the lack of opening and closing the refrigerator doors. The point is...without strict controls it would be hard to measure the numbers below against another unit for a comparison, I think I still think it's interesting.



Given a single 100aH Battle Born battery can generate 1.2kWh of power, that means to run the refrigerator for 24 hours without a recharge from any source will take ~2.5 batteries. (3.1kWh / 1.2kWh = 2.5 )

[Ascrone]

Howard, I had a couple questions about your install since I'm getting ready to do this in 312BHTS. Do you have any concerns/issues with not having any clearance at the top since you added the extra plywood? Looking at the install instruction for the Haier it shows needing 1" clearance at the top and 2" in the back. Could you install an extra roller by drilling a couple of small holes in the floor of the slide? Not that it would be the best solution but it looks like the rollers sit on the RV floor and have a couple of screws holding them down. Then maybe fill the holes. Maybe not the best way to install but might best pulling the slide out.

Also, I found this on Amazon that will lock the doors: Amazon.com: Fridge Fixer (HRQ16 Series) : Appliances

Alan

[ncitro]

Howard, I had a couple questions about your install since I'm getting ready to do this in 312BHTS. Do you have any concerns/issues with not having any clearance at the top since you added the extra plywood? Looking at the install instruction for the Haier it shows needing 1" clearance at the top and 2" in the back. Could you install an extra roller by drilling a couple of small holes in the floor of the slide? Not that it would be the best solution but it looks like the rollers sit on the RV floor and have a couple of screws holding them down. Then maybe fill the holes. Maybe not the best way to install but might best pulling the slide out.

Also, I found this on Amazon that will lock the doors: Amazon.com: Fridge Fixer (HRQ16 Series) : Appliances

Alan

Cant help with the Hair specific question, but I can tell you we got a Fridge Fixer for our GE we installed and its great. Way easier than messing with the bungees I used to use. They are model specific, so be sure to check.

[howson]

Ascrone -- thanks for the link to the Fridge Fixer for the Haier. I didn't know they existed. The creator is quite proud of them...but based on the reviews it appears they work well so I've got them on order.

Your concern about the clearances in the manual is valid. My installation does not meet the manufacturer's criteria.

To date the refrigerator is working great--no complaints. I even ran it for a week on batteries (recharged by solar) as the trailer sat in an unpowered storage lot (fridge was full of food). Even though the trailer got very hot sitting in the Florida sun in a field the refrigerator worked flawlessly.

Not sure about adding rollers to the floor as suggested. Might be possible, but it's a one-and-done if it doesn't work. :(

I've pondered the problem but haven't addressed the bowing floor (yet). The bow is unsightly so I wouldn't do the install (again) without having a plan to address the problem. Maybe I'll learn how to hyper-extend the slide and take care of it that way. The stove and oven are coming out anyway (have a project in mind) and if I pull out the refrigerator that slide will be as light as it will ever be. (I have more ideas than time...)

Another option to all these issues is installing a smaller compressor-driven fridge that fits in the space that was occupied by the Dometic. In other words, a refrigerator that will sit on top of the existing platform. The fridge will be a smaller unit (obviously) but the smaller size will eliminate the clearance issue and the floor issue. A smaller refrigerator will drive cabinet work (to make it look like a clean install) but it shouldn't be too hard.

For example, there are 12v models by Everchill that are now on the market that go up to 17 cu ft! I don't have any first-hand experience with them, but a 12V compressor-driven RV-specific fridge is tempting.
I am not recommending the Everchill, just pointing out there are other options to consider.

Good luck with your choice and installation. I hope you'll take the time to document your installation in your own thread--as you can see it helps other owners when info is shared (the point of an owners forum).

Howard

P.S. Welcome to the forum!

[howson]

It's been more than a year since the original install of the Haier. Now, thanks to Second Chance and Ascrone (for their Fridge Fixer posts), it looks a lot better.

For the last year my DW has lived with dual-lock tape holding the doors closed during travel. Unsightly but effective.


Now with the Fridge Fixer installed, it looks so much nicer. The gadget works perfectly. It even has felt backing on the lock so it glides into the latch easily without scratching the refrigerator--nice touch!



When the refrigerator is in use one part of the fixer is still in place but doesn't appear to interfere.



I've only had it installed one day, but very pleased with the excellent instructions, ease of installation, and look/feel of the add-on. The website for Fridge Fixer is here: https://www.recubed.solutions/

Howard

P.S. Rob's original thread is here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...dential-fridge
Alan's excellent documentation on his install is here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...fridge-install

[David Sheehan]

Howard I am new to this posting stuff and to the forum but I have a questions on this fridge mod. Great explanation and pictures help a bunch.
I have a 2018 315RLTS and need to do this fridge install.
Why did you have to remove the threshold on the door, wasn't there enough room to lift the new fridge in top first aimed at the island resting the bottom of the fridge on a chunk of carpet or moving blanket then stand it upright?
If the new Haier fridge is supposed to be 32 7/8 wide why did you need to take the trim off both sides?
My next question is regarding the slide rollers, I have Identified the rollers on the Grand design parts page as a Lippert L 32 roller, 1.06 high (I think). The slide might not have to come out to install the roller. If you look at the side of the slide roof you will see that the roof is sloped down quite a bit. If you open the slide about 6 inches and remove the hardware the adjusts the slide "up and down" from the front mount you should be able to lift the slide enough to install the roller. I plan on finding how far in the rollers are mounted and then drill up from the bottom, slide the roller and bolts in-between the slide floor and the floor. It should be simple to tighten the bolts on the roller lower the slide to its original location / reattach the mounting hardware to the slide arms. What do you think?

[howson]

Why did you have to remove the threshold on the door, wasn't there enough room to lift the new fridge in top first aimed at the island resting the bottom of the fridge on a chunk of carpet or moving blanket then stand it upright?

No, there wasn't enough vertical space without removing the threshold.

If the new Haier fridge is supposed to be 32 7/8 wide why did you need to take the trim off both sides?

Hmmm...I don't remember, David.

My next question is regarding the slide rollers, I have Identified the rollers on the Grand design parts page as a Lippert L 32 roller, 1.06 high (I think). The slide might not have to come out to install the roller. If you look at the side of the slide roof you will see that the roof is sloped down quite a bit. If you open the slide about 6 inches and remove the hardware the adjusts the slide "up and down" from the front mount you should be able to lift the slide enough to install the roller. I plan on finding how far in the rollers are mounted and then drill up from the bottom, slide the roller and bolts in-between the slide floor and the floor. It should be simple to tighten the bolts on the roller lower the slide to its original location / reattach the mounting hardware to the slide arms. What do you think?

My DW loves the Haier. It's been fantastic in every sense of the word. However, if I had a mulligan and could do it over, I'd choose a refrigerator that fit in the space with the threshold left in the space as built by GD. Why? Because most likely a modification to support the floor would not be needed (in other words no need for more rollers to support the floor).

What I'd choose today would ideally a 12v model to minimize the loss incurred (even though it's minimal) through the inverter. Actually, whether a 12VDC or 120VAC is not of critical importance--the size and the french doors (so the right side can be accessed with the slide closed) are the most important considerations (for us).

I hope that helps. Oh--and welcome to the forum! If you've read my posts, you know about the welcome letter, so please give it a read and set up your signature line. I look forward to reading your future posts.

Howard

[Skiba]

I have been following this post and installed a Haier for ourselves. As mentioned it was a bear to get inside and I thought I really screwed up with the size refrigerator I ordered. It's in and how happy we are with it's performance so far. Today the outside temp is in the 80's and it is maintaining just fine. We have 2,000 watts on the roof and 600ah of batteries and we are gaining. The Norcold would be running with 50 degree temps and the amp draw around 25amps. With the Kill A Watt the highest i have seen was .58 amps, and that was while it was in the cooling cycle as i had it shut down to install the Fridge Fixer. impressive results! Thank you so much for starting this post.

[howson]

Skiba -- you're welcome! My DW won't ever go back to an "RV" (absorption-technology) refrigerator.

[howson]

sparkyparks This is the thread I think you're looking for (asked via PM).