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Fridge fix when not cooling (Norcold 1210)

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  • Fridge fix when not cooling (Norcold 1210)

    This last trip out our fridge wouldn't cool before we left. 1 month out of warranty as well. Packed the food in a cooler and headed to the CG. Sitting around the campfire I was reading a little about issues on our Norcold 1210. Most seem to come down to three issues
    1. The sensor/board that is visible behind the fridge through the access panel. I believe it's an overheat trip which can be reset with a strong magnet. It's prone to getting water in it and causing it to trip as well. If tripped, there should be a red light/led visible. (overheat / high limit board)
    2. The Thermistor which is the piece that goes on the fins to regulate the temperature tends to fail.
    3. The 12V (or 120v) fuse in the panel blows and needs to be replaced.
    There is also a troubleshoot mode to actually find out what might be wrong. Link to the PDF: https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...68C_022707.pdf This is for 1200 & 120X models, however, the error codes are identical for the 1210 which is the most recent version. Oddly enough, the manual for the 1210 does NOT have this information listed!

    Page 49-51 of the manual indicates which LED on the display number relates to which fault is on the fridge. There are multiple pages of fault codes so you can scroll and check each page. I would highly suggest printing this manual out and keeping it in the camper. The literature I got with my camper was not nearly this detailed and pretty useless.

    In my case, page 5 fault, #1 was illuminated indicating Thermistor failure. I also checked page 3, which is the actual fin temperature. Mine was 0, further indicating there was no communication with the probe. At the very least it should had been reading room temperature.

    A little more googling pointed to people being able to unplug it and basically hot wire the fridge. The fridge light is on this connector so you will lose the light inside the fridge as well. I unplugged it, set the fridge to 9 and went to bed. I woke up and the fridge was down to 30 degrees! It proceeded to drop in temperature so I lowered it to cold setting #6 and it settled right at 35 degrees.

    I ordered a new thermistor for $20 and waiting for for it to come in. In the mean time I am a little annoyed at the fact they removed instructions on how to diagnose issues, basically forcing you to go to a dealer where they can up-sell you on a repair, or possibly a whole new fridge. The good news is you can bypass this thermistor should yours fail so your food doesn't all spoil.

    I don't know if this is common knowledge or not, but I did not know about it and information was extremely scarce on the subject.

    EDITS 9/29/21. ABOVE IN BOLD FONT with comments below..
    I went to turn the fridge on for a trip this weekend....nothing. No power no nothing. I unscrewed the back of the main board and the 12volt fuse was popped. This appears to be somewhat common. When I searched "Norcold 1210 issue" this is the first post that came up in google so I thought it would be helpful to add this new problem to this original post.

    EDIT 9/30/21
    Fuse blew again. Did some more googling and some people said it was the fans on the cooling fins go out and cause the fuse to blow. I poked my head in the top access panel and I see 2 computer fans. They were not running despite having 12 volts going to them. There's a red and black wire going out of the control board and up the lower access panel to the fans. GD put a blocker in so the fans would vent over the fins. As a result I can't get my hands in there to replace. I will have to cut the board out and splice it back in to change the fans. For now I just unplugged the fans and will see if the fuse holds. I think I have some extra fans laying around to get me through the weekend. It should be somewhat cool so I am not that concerned if I can't get them replaced.

    We did fall camping without fans plugged in and the fuse did not pop. The fridge maintained temperature as well.

    EDIT 6/22/22
    I finally got around to replacing the fans. Didn't need them for fall camping. I also removed the board blocking the fans. I read some posts that GD put them in all the campers and some didn't need then. The fridge is staying cold in 100 degree temps so I'd say it's all working as it should. It appears the fans only run when getting power through the sensor on the fins. That's the red wire on the right of the fins. It must close the switch when reaching a certain temperature. When the switch closes it provides the 12V to the fans. The fans I got are pretty loud so I could hear them cycle on and off.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by RoyB; 06-24-2022, 08:52 AM.
    2020 GD 320G
    2021 Ram 3500 H.O. SRW.

  • #2
    Wow - This is great information and I really appreciate you sharing the solution. This is a frequent issue and your post will hopefully help people in the future.

    Note: I edited the title by adding in the model number to make future searches a little easier.

    Jim
    Jim and Ginnie
    2024 Solitude 310GK
    GDRV Technical Forum Moderator
    GDRV Rally Support Coordinator

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    • #3
      Excellent post RoyB!
      2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins w Aisin and 9 cup holders
      Not to brag or anything about my finances, but my bank calls me about every day to tell me my balance is OUTSTANDING!

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      • #4
        Glad to help. I've been on other websites, so it's good to have multiple resources. This forum seems a bit more tech focused so I thought this would be useful for people. I managed to put the above together based on reading other brand of campers forums, as well as watching a couple different youtube videos. Oddly enough, no one had all the info from start to finish in one place.

        While I have a 1210, I believe the procedure would work for the 1200 series as well.

        EDIT: After changing this part, the fridge has been happily chugging along for a couple days now. At level 6 it was right at 34 degrees. Now with the sensor it's sitting at 28 degrees. Easy and cheap fix!
        Last edited by RoyB; 11-25-2020, 12:17 PM.
        2020 GD 320G
        2021 Ram 3500 H.O. SRW.

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        • #5
          Just stumbled on this... also if you suspect a bad thermistor, un plug the 4way connector near the interior light. Doing this forces the Norcold 1210 to go into max cooling mode. Unfortunately it didn't fix mine and the entire cooling unit is going to need replacing.

          Jim
          Jim&Deb
          2016 Reflection 337 RLS
          2015 GMC Denali 3500HD Duramax, 4wd, Crew Cab 6'6" box, SRW

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          • #6
            Same problem on our first trip after picking up a slightly used 2020 Reflection 300RBTS. No error codes, but I did find the 121x manual online here:
            Norcold-Service-1210 (rvrefrigeratorrepair.com)

            Got home, tried it again worked perfectly. The only thing I can think of is at the RV park the trailer wasn't perfectly level side to side. I know there is a limit to how far off it can be but didn't think at the time that it was that bad.
            2020 Reflection 300RBTS
            2017 Toyota Tundra Crew Cab

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            • #7
              Originally posted by cfmelville View Post
              Same problem on our first trip after picking up a slightly used 2020 Reflection 300RBTS. No error codes, but I did find the 121x manual online here:
              Norcold-Service-1210 (rvrefrigeratorrepair.com)

              Got home, tried it again worked perfectly. The only thing I can think of is at the RV park the trailer wasn't perfectly level side to side. I know there is a limit to how far off it can be but didn't think at the time that it was that bad.
              Sometimes shaking the ammonia in the cooling unit to break up a clog (traveling does this!) makes a non-working unit functional again. It's been documented on numerous occasions.

              I noted that was your first post, and you figured out the signature line (awesome) but just in case....Welcome Letter to New Members at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

              Howard
              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

              2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by howson View Post

                Sometimes shaking the ammonia in the cooling unit to break up a clog (traveling does this!) makes a non-working unit functional again. It's been documented on numerous occasions.


                Howard
                Several years back I had to take my grandfather's 1976 Vacationeer Class C around the block one time to get it working again. Couple of bumps and it worked like a charm!

                Curtis, Christine, Cole, and Charlotte
                2007 Chevrolet Silverado Duramax LBZ, CCLB
                2020 Momentum 351M
                2004 Essex Vortex

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                • #9
                  Dad pulled the refer out of the original motor home (1982 model) when it fell apart on the Alaska trip. He was going to rebuild it (wood work failed when we were moving it to set it on the frame) but never finished. He brought the dual power fridge into the house plugging it in to keep it working. Used it as a beverage cooler for years. About 1-2 times a year he would empty it out and turn the unit upside down for a couple of days (unplugged) then turn back over and wait a day or two. That thing lasted over 20 years. I don't think any modern unit would do that. That thing was 100% manual control with turn nobs for power vs gas and push buttons for the gas burner (my fingers still hurt thinking about holding the pilot button when lighting it on windy days).
                  Joseph
                  Tow
                  Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
                  Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
                  South of Houston Texas

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                  • #10
                    Jlawles2, sounds like a Dometic RM2193. You can still buy them: https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/ca/pro...m-2193-_-30914

                    Things are persnickety little devils. Mine would only cool down to 40F, never below. They are too short to have a proper draft, so they don't evacuate the heat properly.
                    Mike
                    2017 Imagine 2800BH pushing a 2019 Ford F150 Platinum

                    Formerly: 2002 Rockwood Popup
                    Location: Massachusetts

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                    • #11
                      mpking I don't think that was the model. This one ran on Propane, 120v, and supposedly 12v. The controls were at under the door behind 2 smoke colored slides. Dad removed the slide b/x you could not see the flame indicator (literally a fiber optic line that would reflect the blue of the flame) with the slide open as it covered the indicator. This ref used no power when on gas. Even swapping from elect to gas was done manually by a turn knob behind the slide.

                      We never had the 12v work properly as the heating element was 120v and would not get hot enough. When it finally died the ammonia system ended up leaking out. I know that thing was 20 years old. If you screwed up the settings, it would freeze solid (might have done that by accident a time or two). I think we had to change the knob 1 number between gas and elect otherwise it would freeze.
                      Joseph
                      Tow
                      Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
                      Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
                      South of Houston Texas

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I had a new issue today with the fridge so I updated the original post. The 12v fuse behind the control board was blown.
                        2020 GD 320G
                        2021 Ram 3500 H.O. SRW.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          My 1210 Norcold also has a bad fan and am going to replace it with 2 120mm X 38MM fans and leave the good one. Based on your experience, do you think there is enough room to add a 3rd fan? How do they attach the fans to the back of the frig, do you think it will require a special bracket to attach all 3? Thanks.

                          https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...K758WMXQ&psc=1

                          Tim
                          2020 Reflection 320MKS, Sidewinder Hitch
                          2003 2500HD Silverado Duramax, Sumo springs, Hawk Brake Pads

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Indy Tim View Post
                            My 1210 Norcold also has a bad fan and am going to replace it with 2 120mm X 38MM fans and leave the good one. Based on your experience, do you think there is enough room to add a 3rd fan? How do they attach the fans to the back of the frig, do you think it will require a special bracket to attach all 3? Thanks.

                            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...K758WMXQ&psc=1
                            Are you addressing a specific individual with your query? If so, please use the quote or tag function so that forum member gets a notification. (All of this is referenced in the Welcome Letter.) Thanks!

                            Howard
                            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                            2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Indy Tim, no there is not enough room to easily add a third due to wiring and space limitations. Maybe if you pulled the refrigerator out, but that was too much work for me. Confirmed that both of my fans went bad (internal short on one, internal open on the other). I replaced them with $15 units from Amazon. https://a.co/d/6Ycd1LD.

                              If the 5A fuse is blowing on the control board, this may be an easy check in troubleshooting. The thermistor in the fin will also have 13v on the side coming from the board. Ground to the screw holding the corrugated wire shroud and then place your positive DMM lead on each contact of the thermistor. One side will be 13v and the other side will gradually see a voltage increase as the fins warm.

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