Dometic 4-Door 1350 Fridge Modifications to Help with Cooling

[ncitro]

The humidity returned here in SW Florida 2 nights ago, the 23rd. The temperature wasn't too bad, around 80 in the day and dropped to around mid 60's overnight. This was too much for our refer as once again we saw temps in the refer around 50 and even overnight the refer only got down to 47! The humidity broke yesterday and we had outside temp of upper 50's overnight. This morning our refer temp was 34, perfect. So I am definitely seeing a correlation between high humidity and poor refer performance.

What fins are grand design referring to being 1 inch from the wall? The black fins at the top of the refer as in my picture below? There is no wall there, just the removable black cover. There is insulation above the refer and it looks like on one side but definitely nothing on the left side when looking from outside. There is also no baffle above these black fins to deflect the air flow out to the outside. However the insulation on top of the refer would prevent the hot air from getting there. How often are the fans supposed to run?

I have put a P trap in my drain line and water is draining fine from there.

I agrre with TZee that this is very frustrating. I bought a brand new trailer we are full timing in and have no other option to keep food cold and keep from going bad or make us sick. If we need modifications to ensure our refer performs as it should, then I sincerely hope that Grand Design will make it right for us. I am not comfortable doing any mods and then voiding warranty or making things worse. I am confident that Grand Design's exceptional customer service will come through. Every time I look at the refer temp I get stressed afraid of what I might see!

thanks for all the help everyone.

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I feel your pain. We struggled with ours for two years, had it looked at at the rally by Grand Design and Dometic. Finally this spring on my way back from Florida I'd had enough. I removed the RV fridge and installed a residential unit. We're just back from a four month trip out west to California and back down to Florida and it performed flawlessly. Easily twice the usable space of the Dometic and it actually cools my food.

It's my form belief that the bigger RV absorption fridges just can't keep up in the hot weather, especially when in a slide.

[Mark&Colleen]

Did Grand Design assist with the cost? Did you install an inverter to keep it running during travel? If so did you add some more battery capacity! We only have 1 battery in our Solitude S Class. I was frankly very surprised this rig only came with only one battery.

A residential fridge sounds very appealing as we most likely will always be on shore power. I dread this summer back home when we get those weeks of hot high humid days!

[ncitro]

Did Grand Design assist with the cost? Did you install an inverter to keep it running during travel? If so did you add some more battery capacity! We only have 1 battery in our Solitude S Class. I was frankly very surprised this rig only came with only one battery.

A residential fridge sounds very appealing as we most likely will always be on shore power. I dread this summer back home when we get those weeks of hot high humid days!

No we did not ask for any help from Grand Design, the last time they looked at it they claimed it was working as designed.

I already had already installed an inverter system and additional batteries in my rig, so that was not a concern, however if you're not planning to do dry camping your inverter needs would be pretty minimal to run the fridge. Add a second battery or better yet switch your current one out to two golf cart batteries and you'll be in business.

I'm really happy with the decision, it holds a ton of food, and I was to the point where I was constantly worrying I'd need to throw the food away I'd just bought.

[Yattr]

I too have had a less than desirable cooling from the 4 door Norcold. This summer the thermistor failed. The first replacement wasn't to spec either and returned. With the next replacement thermistor, I also replaced the control board and it hasn't worked this well ever! I had to keep lowering the setting because the lower section was freezing.

Hope the Dometic 4 door in our new 367BHS works better than the Norcold has until now. It is currently winterized until May at 7000'.

[Mark&Colleen]

I am at a standstill at what to do next. Fridge seals are all good via the paper test. We haven't overloaded the fridge and keep space around the sides for circulation. I have the p trap in the drain line.

What fins are grand design referring to being 1 inch from the wall? The black fins at the top? There is no wall there, just the removable black cover. I have the metal baffle mounted on the wall as per my previous post. There is insulation above the refer and it looks like on one side but definitely nothing on the left side when looking from outside. There is also no baffle above these black fins to deflect the air flow out to the outside. However the insulation on top of the refer would prevent the hot air from accumulating there.

Do do I need a baffle to deflect the hot air outside?

i assume I should have insulation along the side of the refer where it is missing?

Refer is perfoming ok right now as the humidity has gone. Past experience tells me that when humidity returns I'll see refer temps in the 50's.

I'll also order one of these temp/humidity trackers to monitor what is going on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...c=1&pldnSite=1

[Cate&Rob]

What fins are grand design referring to being 1 inch from the wall? The black fins at the top? There is no wall there, just the removable black cover. I have the metal baffle mounted on the wall as per my previous post.

Hi Mark,

The 1" spacing refers to the distance from the back of the fridge to the wall. This would be from the back of the pipes/fans/brackets . . . whatever sticks out the furthest.

Can you remove the metal baffle from the outside? These are often installed to the wall from the inside . . . meaning that you have to pull the fridge to get at the screws/staples . . . or pry the baffle plate away from the wall from the outside.

It would be great information to record whats going on before and after removing the baffle in question. This would be true data to prove whether the baffle plate is helping or hurting.

Rob

[Mark&Colleen]

From what I can determine, I have 1.5 inch spacing from the fridge to the wall. So it would seem I require the baffle? the baffle does not go all the way to the bottom. I can't see how I can remove it from the outside. I don't have a comfort level pulling the fridge, especially since there are propane hoses involved and I am under warranty.

I also probably need insulation where it is missing and maybe a baffle at the very top to deflect air outside?

Is it it possible for grand design to send a mobile tech out or should I be checking something else?

Thanks Rob.

[howson]

I am at a standstill at what to do next. Fridge seals are all good via the paper test. We haven't overloaded the fridge and keep space around the sides for circulation. I have the p trap in the drain line.

What fins are grand design referring to being 1 inch from the wall? The black fins at the top? There is no wall there, just the removable black cover. I have the metal baffle mounted on the wall as per my previous post. There is insulation above the refer and it looks like on one side but definitely nothing on the left side when looking from outside. There is also no baffle above these black fins to deflect the air flow out to the outside. However the insulation on top of the refer would prevent the hot air from accumulating there.

Do do I need a baffle to deflect the hot air outside?

i assume I should have insulation along the side of the refer where it is missing?

Refer is perfoming ok right now as the humidity has gone. Past experience tells me that when humidity returns I'll see refer temps in the 50's.

I'll also order one of these temp/humidity trackers to monitor what is going on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...c=1&pldnSite=1

I recommend patience for just a bit longer, Mark.

Grand Design management, GDRV-Megan and GDRV-Emily are well aware of the request for documentation on which owners, and how those owners, should proceed if they have the baffle that "shouldn't" be there.

[Mark&Colleen]

Ok that's great Howard, I'll stand by. I have full confidence in grand design and the amazing support on this forum!

we are loving the Solitude life in SW Florida!!

[JGPicard]

I added fans where the air is coming in. It helps it.. Here the link of my addition. https://www.titan-cd.com/en/product/...KW-Series.html

[Mark&Colleen]

Just an update for the grand design folks. Humidity has returned, low overnight was 69, humidity is 91%. Fridge temp this am is 51. We did load some groceries yesterday but it has had all night to recover.

when we loaded the groceries in the afternoon the fridge was at 37. Outside air temp yesterday was in low 80's.

Thanks Mark

[Pondview78]

From the beginning (new 2019) we had problems with our 4 door fridge in the 2019 303RLS. Initially there was a defect that continually trips a thermal switch shutting the unit down. Te dealer consulted with Domestic and related the cooling unit. We continued mohave problems with it cooling and the longer to ran the worse it got up to the point it all but quit cooling. We were passing through Middebury and talked with a customer service manager who referred us to a RV refrigeration specialist in Shipshewanna. They found when the dealer reinstalled the fridge the top baffle above the fridge had dropped down and wrapped itself back behind the cooling unit rendering the top vent completely closed off, resulting in the cooling unit overheating. They immediately removed the "paneling" baffle and replaced it with a sheet metal baffle. I did not see the configuration he installed but he stated the paneling baffle was not inadequate. Turned out the cooling unit had cooked itself and the cooling nit needed to be replaced again, fortunately Dometic warrantied it. The repair tech advised me that Dometic supported the baffle change and would have authorized the replacement anyway. Based on what the repair tech told me and as I understood, there needs to be a baffle just not the paneling type and configuration from the manufacturer.

The fridge has worked great since and often need to lower the setting depending on outside air temps. Not saying the baffle should be removed or replaced. Just wanted to share our experience.

[Mark&Colleen]

This is great information, thanks for sharing! Would you be able to post a picture of the baffle you have at the top of the fridge?

Humidity has gone here here and my fridge is back to 37. My cooling returns to normal during low humidity. I may have a different issue. My guess is an airflow problem. When humidity rises, I don't have the airflow across the fins to compensate. Of course just a guess from a layman!

Mark

[Cate&Rob]

This is great information, thanks for sharing! Would you be able to post a picture of the baffle you have at the top of the fridge?

Humidity has gone here here and my fridge is back to 37. My cooling returns to normal during low humidity. I may have a different issue. My guess is an airflow problem. When humidity rises, I don't have the airflow across the fins to compensate. Of course just a guess from a layman!

Mark

Hi Mark,

Have you had any feedback directly from Dometic as to why humidity has such a dramatic effect on your fridge performance? I have not heard of anyone else making this connection . . . you may be on to something here.

GDRV-Megan . . . do you have a contact at Dometic who could get into this directly with Mark? With Mark being in southern Florida, maybe we can use his fridge as the test case to find a resolution for this problem before the rest of the continent faces this again next summer.

Rob

[Mark&Colleen]

Hi Rob, I haven't contacted anyone other than this forum so far. I'll wait for direction from Grand Design on this. I don't want to do anything that would jeopardize the warranty.

Thanks!