Norcold 1210T Issues on 2021 GD 303RLS

[S&M_G]

Well, it took 3 months but we finally have our first major issue on our new trailer.

We found our Norcold 1210T refrigerator OFF, all lights on power panel off, not cooling around 1pm today.

Hoping someone has experienced this and can offer guidance.

Problem: No power to refrigerator control panel, unit not on.

Troubleshooting steps taken:
1. Check AC Breaker Panel & 15amp breaker not tripped
2. Check 12vdc Fuse panel & 15amp fuse not blown: verified w multi-meter & even swapped fuse with stereo...worked fine.
3. Check battery voltage: 13.12 volts at battery w/shore power on & converter on / 12.78vdc with converter OFF
4. Check battery voltage at back of refrigerator at circuit board: 13.11vdc converter on & 12.76vdc converter off so no voltage drop
5. Disconnected 12v wires at circuit board & measured 13.11 & 12.76 at wire female spade connectors
6. Disconnected 120vac power by unplugging at wall socket at rear of fridge
7. Removed board cover & found 5amp 12vdc fuse located on the circuit board blown
8. Replaced 5amp 12vdc fuse
9. Applied 12vdc power & within 5seconds propane system ignited, fridge power panel illuminated & fridge started cooling
10. Plugged 120vac fridge plug back into outlet and less than 5mins fridge shuts off and fridge panel is blank

Called Norcold Customer Service; they were absolutely useless and would not provide any technical assistance due to "legal liability" with troubleshooting wiring and said only a qualified technician can speak to their technical staff.

She told me to go online & search for authorized repair technicians...that was worth the 26minute hold time.
She also told me that if I remove the board or change the fuse that I "Could VOID my warranty"...100% Ridiculous service.

Called 7 Norcold Service Providers within 30miles of New Smyrna Beach FL and all are booked for 2-3 weeks...Not good!

One Technician was driving & he was super helpful & asked me to check the following:
Unplug 120vac at outlet
Remove board cover & found 5amp 12vdc fuse blown again
Replaced 5amp fuse
Inspect all wires leading to circuit board & no signs of issues
Inspect 12vdc power & ground wires & crimp connections & no signs of issues
Inspect circuit board 12vdc spade terminals & no signs of issues
Removed 5amp fuse & check power across fuse spade terminals, 12.8vdc (converter still off)
Re-apply 12vdc power & propane fires, lights on fridge illuminate & fridge starts to cool
20minutes later...fuse blows, fridge OFF (AC power was still completely disconnected from fridge)

Unfortunately he is 45miles away & booked for 4 weeks so he can't help us any further but he did email me the 1210T Service Manual, which is great but I can't risk voiding the warranty.

Every place I call says 2-3weeks before they can come out to troubleshoot. Plan to call a couple dealers tomorrow, but it will likely be longer wait with them, as we are 300+ miles away from dealer we purchased from 3 months ago.

Obviously we don't want to VOID our warranty but wondering if anyone has experienced this or similar issue and can offer guidance.
Or, are there any other methods to get a qualified tech out here? Should I call GD Cust. Service?

Unlucky for us, as we are actively camping and are about to lose a full fridge of food & most of our freezer items...our fairly small cooler is maxed out with food items & ice already!
Rest assured I'll be making space in the cooler by consuming several cold beers tonight!

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt

[ncitro]

@S&M_G I would change the board, but I am comfortable with those kind of repairs, and generally find warranties to be pretty much worthless (evidenced since you cannot get anyone out to make a warranty repair at the moment). If you have an issue with the cooling unit down the road I would think they would have to prove you messed it up by changing the fuse or the board to deny a warranty claim on it (plus they would have to be able to tell that it was replaced, and by a non authorized service rep), so you should be good there, but its your call. My experience is with Dometic not Norcold, but I think all of the sensors should be different for the electric or propane side, so if you are having issues with both I think it points to the board. I have had good luck with Dinosaur electronics boards over the factory ones. I have used them in two Dometic fridges and several Atwood water heaters. They are relatively inexpensive, and available on Amazon with easy returns, so if it does not fix it you could hold it for a spare or return it easy enough.

[RV Tech Ret]

Here is the known problem....you have a couple of cooling fans on the back - they have had a problem that when they go to turn on it blows the fuse. The problem is with a fan on start up. The fix is to replace the fans (they are wired as a set). To do this it's kind a big job because you need to push the fridge either partly or all the way out...I've done both (pushed it out enough to crawl up in the back and work in a tight space).

The fans turn on based on fin temp so that may be the reason why when you were on LP it seemed to work and then when you went to 120 VAC it didn't last long - it was just timing of the heating of the back coils. Get a few fuses and try it a few times....I have seen it happen a few times and then never repeat...

If it still does not work - hate to say but you really need an authorized Norcold tech so it's done under warranty...

[howson]

Any help is greatly appreciated.

type this into google: Norcold 1210T site:gdrvowners.com

The search engine will return about a dozen threads to read.

Please post back with the resolution.

Howard

[S&M_G]

ncitro Thanks, that makes sense on them not being able to tell who changed the fuse or board. Board is not sealed....so... I kept troubleshooting & determined its the fans.

RV Tech Ret Spot on, thank you! Found troubleshooting tree & removed wires from temp sensor on fins & jumped with 7amp fuse...5amp fuse on board blows immediately when fans attempt to turn on. As you said, exactly why it runs fine for 20mins on propane. Now I'm waiting for Norcold tech to receive parts...fridge has to come out so I hope he's skinny!!

I'm attaching the Norcold Parts List & the Service Manual in case any others have similar issues. I found them easy to read and very helpful in troubleshooting.
Also, you can get the fans from Amazon, from the Norcold Inc store cheaper and faster than from Norcold (but NOT under warranty). Link Below.

Here's the URL: https://www.amazon.com/NORCOLD-INC-6...279736&sr=8-12

[KSC_Travels]

ncitro Thanks, that makes sense on them not being able to tell who changed the fuse or board. Board is not sealed....so... I kept troubleshooting & determined its the fans.

RV Tech Ret Spot on, thank you! Found troubleshooting tree & removed wires from temp sensor on fins & jumped with 7amp fuse...5amp fuse on board blows immediately when fans attempt to turn on. As you said, exactly why it runs fine for 20mins on propane. Now I'm waiting for Norcold tech to receive parts...fridge has to come out so I hope he's skinny!!

I'm attaching the Norcold Parts List & the Service Manual in case any others have similar issues. I found them easy to read and very helpful in troubleshooting.
Also, you can get the fans from Amazon, from the Norcold Inc store cheaper and faster than from Norcold (but NOT under warranty). Link Below.

Here's the URL: https://www.amazon.com/NORCOLD-INC-6...279736&sr=8-12

Well... it happened to me! Fridge (Norcold 1210) quit while out last week (no lights, nothing). I suspected the 12V system, but the 15A panel fuse was fine and I even replaced to make sure - didn't realize there was another fuse on the fridge control board. Wasn't able to diagnose in a timely way while out (bad internet connection) so instead of spoiling all the food we returned home (only 90 minutes drive).

The next day (now at home), thanks to this thread, I was able to quickly diagnose it as a blown fuse (5A blade fuse) on the fridge control board. Suspicious that it was a cooling fan issue, but not wanting to "fix something that ain't broke", I replaced the fuse to check. The fridge came on and ran for about 40 minutes and the fuse popped again. Soooo... now pretty sure its the cooling fans!

I cut out the luan baffle behind the upper vent. Once this was removed, I had easy access to the two cooling fans and the fan wiring (happily, the fridge does not have to come out - I was dreading taking this to my dealer). After some jumpering and testing I found one of the fans non-functional (doesn't turn on at all). I disconnected and removed this fan (easy blade type connectors and two screws). Replaced the 5A fuse again and started the fridge... now runs no problem with the one fan (not as efficiently though). Running with one fan not a long term solution, but at least the problem is found and the fridge is functional now while I await the replacement fan. Replaced the baffle and secured with 4 corner brackets into the vent cutout framing to hold it in place.

Now - sourcing the replacement fan is problematic (at least here in Canada). Dealer didn't have one and couldn't (wouldn't?) even order one for me as their supplier (Norcold? - not sure) wasn't accepting orders due to shortages (hmmmm - bad batch of fans maybe?). Amazon.ca does carry them, but they were out of stock too. I did manage to find one from a vendor on Amazon.ca with a two week delivery time (and with a much higher cost!). I will be opening a warranty claim with GD on this and see if they can send me one (I now want a spare for when the other fan fails)!

Here is a curiousity question though... the failed fan is causing the 5A blade fuse to blow - indicating an overcurrent condition. I just don't know why. The fan spins freely (not binding at all), wasn't wet or particularly dirty/dusty and the wiring seems to be intact - so maybe an internal short circuit in the motor? Again - just a curiousity question.

Just thought I would post this in case others run across the same. It is a pretty easy diagnose and replacement once you know what you're looking for.

Also - if not already, add some spare 5A blade fuses to your parts (I had practically every other size from 7.5 to 30 - I mean... who carries 5A blade fuses... really? - probably all of you... LOL.

[KSC_Travels]

Here is a pic of the upper fridge vent with the baffle removed. The offending cooling fan was removed in this photo - it sits just to the left of the fan in the pic.

[Country Campers]

KSC_Travels

Ken

At least your fan is accessible. I have the Dometic 2 door fridge and the fan is in between the upper and lower outside covers and can not be touched with human hands unless the fridge is pulled. Thanks for the write up and pictures , surely will help others.

Brian