Dometic Refrigerator keeps turning off

[mattsigel]

My Dometic refrigerator keepings turning off - the lights on the display are all off. The refrigerator is original equipment on a 2018 Imagine 2400BH. Sometimes it happens once every few days and sometimes 5 or 6 times per day. I cycle the push button to off, wait 5 second and turn it back on. The lights come back and it works. The trailer is level. Any suggestions?

[mpking]

Are you on shore power, or battery when this happens? (Or has it happened on both?)

[howson]

My Dometic refrigerator keepings turning off - the lights on the display are all off. The refrigerator is original equipment on a 2018 Imagine 2400BH. Sometimes it happens once every few days and sometimes 5 or 6 times per day. I cycle the push button to off, wait 5 second and turn it back on. The lights come back and it works. The trailer is level. Any suggestions?

What model Dometic?

No error code?

No lights at all indicates lack of 12v. Has it happened since you turned on the disconnect (your other thread)?

[Tom Scruggs]

Any luck on this? I had the problem last year. They replaced the "eyebrow" board and the converter. Worked fine until this past week when it shut off on us five times. (2019 19RLE)

[howson]

Any luck on this? I had the problem last year. They replaced the "eyebrow" board and the converter. Worked fine until this past week when it shut off on us five times. (2019 19RLE)

Hi Tom and welcome to GD's Owners' (Technical) Forum. Unfortunately MattSiegel posted the question and never returned.

Who is "they"? Dealer? Dometic?

Is there any error code associated with the shutdown or does it literally just shut off?

Have you check battery voltage level when the refrigerator turned off? According to Dometic's Diagnostic Service Manual: The operational range of the unit is a minimum of 9.6V DC to a maximum of 22V DC. The unit will automatically shut down until voltage has decreased to 18V DC. The refrigerator requires at least 9.6V DC for proper operation; however the panel lights will continue to illuminate until voltage has dropped to 4V DC or below.

Noted that was your first post, so if you want to know more about how to navigate and find information on this forum, please check out the Welcome Letter to New Members at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

Howard

[Tom Scruggs]

Hi Tom and welcome to GD's Owners' (Technical) Forum. Unfortunately MattSiegel posted the question and never returned.

Who is "they"? Dealer? Dometic?

Is there any error code associated with the shutdown or does it literally just shut off?

Have you check battery voltage level when the refrigerator turned off? According to Dometic's Diagnostic Service Manual: The operational range of the unit is a minimum of 9.6V DC to a maximum of 22V DC. The unit will automatically shut down until voltage has decreased to 18V DC. The refrigerator requires at least 9.6V DC for proper operation; however the panel lights will continue to illuminate until voltage has dropped to 4V DC or below.

Noted that was your first post, so if you want to know more about how to navigate and find information on this forum, please check out the Welcome Letter to New Members at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

Howard

Hello Howard. Thanks for responding.

My dealer was very good in getting me in right away since I had just bought it new a week earlier. After the dealer had replaced the converter last August it seemed to have fixed it until this week. No error codes, just a blank control panel and no light in the refrigerator like someone had pushed the off button. I hadn't checked the battery voltage, but since I'm able to restart the refrigerator right away by pressing the power button on the fridge (sometimes repeatedly), or pulling the 15 amp fuse and resetting it, I would guess the charge is okay. I've always been on shore power when this happens, but as a test it did happen on propane also. Speaking of the fuse, do you know if anything else should be wired to the same fuse? I noticed the stove hood exhaust fan and light are on the same circuit.

Thanks so much for the Dometic Diagnostic Service Manual. I'll try to read through it and see if I can find a solution. I'm still under warranty until July 10 so I'll be contacting my dealer again. If you have any ideas I can let them know what to look for. Thanks!

[howson]

...but as a test it did happen on propane also.

Tom,
The 12vDC used by most RV refrigerators is for the control board (and maybe cooling fans). The absorption part of the refrigerator (the section that actually cools) is what is powered by propane or 120vAC. If the 12v source is bad the refrigerator will not run on shore power or propane.

The dealer replacing the converter makes sense--if that device was failing the 12vDC (when on shore power) would be wonky.

The reference to "15A fuse"--do you mean the 15A circuit breaker? Typically the 120vAC circuits are protected by circuit breakers, the 12vDC circuits by fuses.

I'm going to assume the reference is to the 120vAC circuit, so yes, there are typically many devices on the same circuit. Below is a map I made of my camper that cross-references the breaker that supplies the power to the outlet (or component). I urge you to do the same so there's no doubt what-controls what.



The first troubleshooting step in most scenarios like yours is to verify power. That includes the voltage level. Are you familiar with how to use a multimeter?

Finally, if I can opine for a second one of the most useful upgrades a person can make to their trailer is a device that shows the trailer's voltage level in a numerical display. This can be as fancy as the Victron BMV-712 (a favorite device of many on this forum) or as simple as a USB outlet replacement with a voltage display (perfect for the kitchen). The latter won't be a perfect measurement of the battery level, but with time you'll understand what is "normal" and if it doesn't match that's there is a concern to address.

Look in the Modification Channel and in the spreadsheet there are many, many links to USB upgrades that show examples. TucsonJim has one of note. Search the forum for BMV-712 and you'll also find multiple threads on the device. There's a wide variety (of price and capability) in between.

Good luck and please follow up with what fixes your issue. Information sharing is the power of an owners' forum.

Howard

[Tom Scruggs]

Good luck and please follow up with what fixes your issue. Information sharing is the power of an owners' forum.

Sorry for the confusing on the fuse, but yes I meant the 15A fuse listed as "DC Circuit 3: 15 AMP Refer/Furnace" (sic) which perhaps points to a circuit board issue. The fuse had not blown, but by pulling it and then putting back in it may have allowed things to reset. Without pulling the fuse we sometimes can repeatedly push the on/off button and it may eventually work. I do have a multimeter and will try to see what's happening before resetting the fridge again the next time it goes out.

I do like your idea of using the floorplan diagram to mark your circuits. Sure beats my hand drawings in the past. And thanks for your other tips also.

[Jlawles2]

Tom Scruggs Tom, what year is your unit? Don't think just because the unit is 1 or 2 years old the battery is still good. You might want to pull the maintenance caps and verify fluid levels. Weak batteries cause strange issues even on shore power.

[Tom Scruggs]

Tom Scruggs Tom, what year is your unit? Don't think just because the unit is 1 or 2 years old the battery is still good. You might want to pull the maintenance caps and verify fluid levels. Weak batteries cause strange issues even on shore power.

It's a 2019 19RLE, but the problem first began last year when I bought it new (dealer stock), so the battery was only a week old then (hopefully). Battery on tender over winter with fluids checked. Currently at 12.39v. It's been in to the dealer twice already last July/August so hopefully they checked the battery. I'll see if it works more reliably with an AGM battery I have instead of their stock Interstate.

[Tom Scruggs]

Just to follow up on my problem of the refrigerator intermittently shutting off, my dealer had the camper for four days but didn't get the refrigerator to fail during that time. Without a warranty repair I had to pay the $88.48 diagnostic fee. I'm afraid I'll be stuck with the problem until it completely fails, which will probably be when it's out of warranty next month. To add to the piling on, a bearing blew on the way home from the dealer. Now we're waiting for a new axle and tent camping with the grand kids. The dealer had greased the bearings when we got it new and haven't had it for a year yet.

[mpking]

Tom Scruggs , there are two different recalls covering that particular failure. I would recommend you follow up with them / Grand Design. It should be covered.

https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-support/recalls

There is the one with insufficient grease (which sounds like your dealer rectified, since you mentioned the dealer greased it)

Then there is this one:
September 24, 2018 NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V658000
Missing Bearing Races may cause Hub to Overheat
If the bearings prematurely wear, it can cause the hub to overheat and smoke, increasing the risk of a fire.

NHTSA Campaign Number: 18V658000

Manufacturer Grand Design RV, LLC

Components SUSPENSION

Potential Number of Units Affected 997

Summary

Grand Design RV, LLC (Grand Design) is recalling certain 2019 Grand Design Reflection, Imagine and Transcend travel trailers. These axles may be missing inner bearings on the hubs, which can cause the bearing to burnout or cause the hub to overheat.

Remedy

Grand Design will notify owners, and dealers will replace the defective hubs with new hubs or replace the axles, free of charge. The recall began October 22, 2018. Owners may contact Grand Design customer service at 1-574-825-9679. Grand Design's number for this recall is 910015.

Grand Design's webpage (I'm not able to directly link to specific recalls):

NHTSA Recall Number: 18V-658

TC Recall Number: 2018-528

Date Released: 10/17/18

Units Affected: 2019 Reflection, Imagine & Transcend Fifth-Wheel & Travel Trailers With Dexter 4400# Axles

Build Dates: June 25, 2018 through August 14, 2018

VIN Range:
Reflection - 573FR2922K3409546 through 573FR3129K3409951 (non-sequential)
Imagine – 573TE3225K6612315 through 573TE3621K6613178 (non-sequential)
Transcend – 573TT3423K8801066 through 573TT3620K8801569 (non-sequential)

Summary: Dexter Axle has initiated a recall on their 4400# axles. On affected vehicles, the suspect axles could be missing the inner bearing race. As a result, the potential exists for premature bearing and/or hub failure that could lead to a loss of control resulting in a crash and personal injury.

Download Recall PDF

[Tom Scruggs]

Mike, thanks so much for the information!

[ThePowells]

I'm still trying to figure out if the bearing hub is missing a race, how they got the proper pre-load then how did it get to the dealer, or these small enough to move on a trailer?

[Jlawles2]

I found a set of instruction online that told how to inspect for the missing inner race. If you look at how the bearing cup fits the cone (the race) there is not much axial movement needed to set the rollers against the race boss. The fact that the axle survived long enough to make it to the dealer is simply amazing as there is not much contact area on the rollers to the boss.