Stovetop stays hot even when the burners are off

[LucyBelle]

We have a 2021 GD Transcend 245RL and we are having issues with our stove. LucyBelle is in the shop now but I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue. We have a Furrion 3 burner stove, not sure exact model as it is in the shop. LucyBelle is brand new and we only got to take her out one time and that’s when we noticed the issue. We used the stove to make breakfast that morning and left after lunch to go out. I had closed the glass top (the stove had several hours to cool before I closed the top) before we left and when we got back that evening and I was going to make dinner I noticed the top felt extremely warm. First of all there were no burners that were turned on or the oven was not on either. I lifted the cooktop and the place above the striker (front left side) was so hot it would burn you to the touch. The rest of the stove was not hot at all nor was the oven. The only remedy was to turn the propane completely off. This has baffled the service department and they aren’t sure what is going on. Just curious if anyone else has experienced this or not.

[Cate&Rob]

LucyBelle

Welcome to our owners technical forum. When you have a chance, have a look at our welcome post. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members . This will help you set up your signature and navigate the forum.

Messing with a propane problem takes some special knowledge & skills. Since your dealer is not able to solve this, I would suggest contacting Furrion directly. Their online site has a contact information page where you can fill out the specifics of your stove so that they will know what you want to talk about when they contact you. When you get this resolved, please post the solution here so that others can learn.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

STOP USING THE STOVE. I think you have a gas leak in the burner control valve.

Long shot, but it might be possible that the flame was inside the burner instead of outside.

Basically the valve is letting just enough gas through to sustain flame, but not enough to push the flame outside the burner ring. To test this theory, someone will need to "sniff" the burner when it's off. They can also test this by plugging the stove feed line and seeing if the lines hold pressure. Reconnect the stove and repeat. May have to use the stove to generate heat in the valves which leads to the sealing issue. I would say to bubble test it, but getting down into the burner may be an issue, and even then the jet size and location may hinder testing.

[openrangeowners]

Maybe the lighting control system (12V) for the stove is causing the heat? If the stove is off (including the pilot in the oven) then there will be no heat. Try removing the fuse that controls the lights and see if you still have the problem.

[Jlawles2]

openrangeowners Not in the OP that turning off the propane stopped the heating issue.

[openrangeowners]

Yep - just saw that - ignore my suggestion…

[Petrovsky]

I would agree with Joseph above. Do not use the stove until you resolve this issue as you likely have a leak and you could make it worse. Having said this you could perform some simple tests as long as you are well ventilated.

Assuming no flame from stove area as you indicated and focusing only on a potential burner issue.

You mentioned that shutting off the propane supply solves the issue, no propane no flame no heat (I too have this stove)..... I also have an exterior stove and occasionally when I shut one of the burners off, the flame seems to burn internally and then shuts off completely (i.e. the burner valve is doing its thing).

The nose is a very sensitive thing (I was a chemist and my nose is really good). Ethyl mercaptan even in very very low concentrations can be detected easily by your nose. A natural gas company or for that matter a gas appliance furnace company has gas sniffers....maybe you can get your hands on one for the following tests.

Unfortunately I would not put too much trust in the tech guys at your RV shop unless the guy you are talking to is an old timer. My RV dealer doesn't even have a 300 + ft lb torque wrench and his smaller torque wrench is broken so how can he torque to spec a hitch ball!

Downloadable Contents for Appliances (furrion.com)

IM-FHA00001.indd (accentuate.io)


Check out the schematic and note that each burner is controlled by an individual valve and has his own feed. If the burner in question is hot or the line feeding that burner is hot....the only thing that shuts it down is the gas valve to that burner.


Here is what I would do. Turn on the propane and light the non-defective burners just to ensure a propane supply. Shut off valves. Open valve to your faulty one but do not light. Shut valve as you normally would have. I have compressed air so blow that into burner assembly. Smell the burner to make sure you don't smell anything. Take some electrical tape and tape burner 7/8 around perimeter. Wait a good hour and then smell the opening. DO NOT USE ANY FLAME OR IGNITER. You should smell some propane if there is a leak but also note that you need a good flow of propane as the air orifice is fairly large in the tube (see schematic).


The idea is to concentrate the propane in the burner head as much as possible so your nose can detect the mercaptan. This is subject to you shutting the valve the same each time. If you don't smell anything it is possible that it might be leaking after the air orifice on the tube going to the burner head. This will take different approach as you will need access to the tube. Unlikely you would have a flame at the air orifice as there is too much air but then again.

I suspect you need to change the valve on that burner.

However.....to sustain a flame inside the burner you likely have a sizeable leak.


I have fixed many a barbecue in my lifetime and it is always a faulty valve excluding the igniters that always need cleaning and eventual replacement.

Note: A lot of these valves are needle valves and are awful for flame control. It is possible that there is a deformity in the needle and it is not seating properly so some gas is leaking.

On another note.....I am pretty sure that the igniters are pzio so that only leaves one thing......the electrical feed to the 12 volt blue lights but then again you did mention that shutting the propane off solves the issue. I was thinking here maybe a short but not likely given the info you provided. Just fishing.


Good luck,

Pierre

[Prospex]

Might be too little too late but ran into the same problem and found the issue, I have a cougar xlite fifth wheel ( Furion three burner stove) and found that there is a main heating duct right under the oven and they used 4" dryer pipe coming right off of the boiler, lo and behold the vent came loose and was pumping hot air directly into the cabinet and it was rising behind the stove and through the burner holes making them extremely warm to the touch. Re-attatched the heating vent and problem fixed. Don't know if the grand design has the same heating vent but this issue drove me crazy as I was worried about using the camper with the family and possibly having a propane issue.