Installing a weBoost antenna system

[BillinTexas]

I am going to install a weBoost system in our 221RB. I would like the cable from the outdoor antenna to come down through the roof using the appropriate device and come down to through the cabinet behind the TV. I would plug the booster in behind the tv and hang the indoor antenna from the bottom of the TV cabinet. How do I determine where the wires from the Windgard etc come down the wall? I will put the outdoor antenna on the ladder and run the cable down to the entry point of the roof covered by Eternabond tape. I would like to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks.

[pauldridge]

If you're going to have the antenna on the ladder, why not do as I have: Run a separate antenna cable from the actual antenna to a through-bulkhead fitting (readily available) on the side of your RV. The bulkhead fitting will come with sealing washers, and you can get a screw on cap to protect the contacts when antenna is not in use.







Then, a second cable from the inside of the bulkhead fitting to your actual booster unit near the TV. For my 17MKE, that meant positioning the bulkhead fitting to go inside an interior cabinet and then internally to your ultimate destination. The interior cable is essentially permanent, but the exterior cable is removed for on-the-road. The BIG advantage of this arrangement is that you avoid having to drill into the leak-prone roof covering, something I'd shy away from.

[BillinTexas]

If you're going to have the antenna on the ladder, why not do as I have: Run a separate antenna cable from the actual antenna to a through-bulkhead fitting (readily available) on the side of your RV. The bulkhead fitting will come with sealing washers, and you can get a screw on cap to protect the contacts when antenna is not in use.







Then, a second cable from the inside of the bulkhead fitting to your actual booster unit near the TV. For my 17MKE, that meant positioning the bulkhead fitting to go inside an interior cabinet and then internally to your ultimate destination. The interior cable is essentially permanent, but the exterior cable is removed for on-the-road. The BIG advantage of this arrangement is that you avoid having to drill into the leak-prone roof covering, something I'd shy away from.

Paul, this has my interest but for some reason the pics are the small boxes instead of actual photos. Likely my end. I'll look again later.

[BillinTexas]

Unfortunately, the photos areN'T showing.

Can someone tell me if it is difficult to run through the roof trusses? I would like to run the coax cable from the rear to the TV mount area which I would estimate to be approximately 8 ft.

[ncitro]

Unfortunately, the photos are showing.

Can someone tell me if it is difficult to run through the roof trusses? I would like to run the coax cable from the rear to the TV mount area which I would estimate to be approximately 8 ft.

I've fished a few cables through the roof trusses and it's been a short distance and frustrating each time. I ran my Weboost down the ladder and into a rear compartment and then into the outdoor kitchen. When I need to use it I bring my mobile router or to the kitchen and connect it there. That said I rarely use it, since I switched to a Peplink with an external antenna, the Weboost has only outperformed the roof mounted MIMO antenna twice (in about a year). I keep it because I had it before, and I always check it in low signal areas, but since you lose all MIMO when using the booster it generally does not work better.

[tmolnar]

Bill & Cindy

I found the way to get to the area behind the TV was to pull my cable into the area behind the radio from the TV. I eventually discovered that to mount the unit behind the TV was not worth the effort since I could not move on from the glass door cabinet to the back of the unit. I mounted my unit under the sink on the inside sidewall of the sink cabinet. DC was available because the distribution panel is next door on the left under the drawers. I then pulled my antenna cable, (working my way back to the rear of the unit) from this cabinet thru behind the cabinets in the back, (remove the fake back panels), behind the furnace, behind the vanity, under the decorative shelves left of the vanity in the bathroom, into the space under the shower pan. Then I went out next to the power inlet in the back of the unit. Then, I ran the coax cable up the ladder but in the back of the tube. I tie wrapped the cable at every step above and below with black tie wraps. I mounted the antenna as recommended by the MFR on the ladder as high as possible. The indoor antenna sits on the cabinet left of the bed and the cable exits the sink cabinet by the louvers of the furnace vent. This is easier, (not easy) then dissembling any paneling or running it outside the unit. Your other choice is removing the underbelly protection and pulling the cable as GDRV would have. Been there, it's not fun but doable in a weekend. My amplifier works perfectly, and I been able to video conference on my cellphone in god's country, Amish country in central Ohio to be exact.

[BillinTexas]

Bill & Cindy

I found the way to get to the area behind the TV was to pull my cable into the area behind the radio from the TV. I eventually discovered that to mount the unit behind the TV was not worth the effort since I could not move on from the glass door cabinet to the back of the unit. I mounted my unit under the sink on the inside sidewall of the sink cabinet. DC was available because the distribution panel is next door on the left under the drawers. I then pulled my antenna cable, (working my way back to the rear of the unit) from this cabinet thru behind the cabinets in the back, (remove the fake back panels), behind the furnace, behind the vanity, under the decorative shelves left of the vanity in the bathroom, into the space under the shower pan. Then I went out next to the power inlet in the back of the unit. Then, I ran the coax cable up the ladder but in the back of the tube. I tie wrapped the cable at every step above and below with black tie wraps. I mounted the antenna as recommended by the MFR on the ladder as high as possible. The indoor antenna sits on the cabinet left of the bed and the cable exits the sink cabinet by the louvers of the furnace vent. This is easier, (not easy) then dissembling any paneling or running it outside the unit. Your other choice is removing the underbelly protection and pulling the cable as GDRV would have. Been there, it's not fun but doable in a weekend. My amplifier works perfectly, and I been able to video conference on my cellphone in god's country, Amish country in central Ohio to be exact.

I appreciate your comments. It sounds like a different scenario from what I am looking at. I have thought of removing the control panel to access the area behind the TV but I have only one storage area and it is forward. My TV is approximately 8 ft from the rear as mentioned earlier. I would really like to be able to feed the cable from the back to this area. It would be the cleanest install for me. Our next trip will determine if I keep the unit so it will not be a full-blown installation until our return.

[ncitro]

I appreciate your comments. It sounds like a different scenario from what I am looking at. I have thought of removing the control panel to access the area behind the TV but I have only one storage area and it is forward. My TV is approximately 8 ft from the rear as mentioned earlier. I would really like to be able to feed the cable from the back to this area. It would be the cleanest install for me. Our next trip will determine if I keep the unit so it will not be a full-blown installation until our return.

I fished through the trusses once to install a fan in my bunkroom skylight, again to pull my Peplink antenna cables from the AC unit sideways to the chase above my TV, and lastly to run a cat 5 forward for an additional internal WiFi antenna. I am fairly experienced in pulling wire, and would say while not easy it was not impossible. There are fiberglass batts or rolls up there, and the trusses are hollow to fish through, but you have to either jump the fish over the supports the ceiling is attached to, or duck it under the ones the roof sits on. I used a fiberglass rigid fish and this worked best. My hardest was the run up to the bedroom for the additional WiFi antenna, I tried to jump forward from light to light and just could not get it, the curve of the roof just made it too difficult. Finally I punched into the racetrack duct, and popped out of it at the other end. Sealed up where I penetrated the duct and called it a day (those ducts are just thin styrofoam, easy to puncture and run cable through). I mounted my Peplink antenna on the living room AC shroud and ran the cables down into the inside portion of the AC unit and then over to the wall chase that all the cabling goes through. I put my Weboost antenna on the ladder, so it was easier to run the cables down the ladder and into the kitchen, and since I rarely use it I left it there.

[BillinTexas]

Thanks for the further insight, Neil.

I have two sections of 2" aluminum flagpole that I would like to mount the antenna to and attach the sections to the ladder. Would anyone know of or have suggestions of a way to accomplish this? Some type of double clamp maybe? I know the ladder is much smaller in diameter so it may be tricky. I would like to be able to raise and lower the mast from the ground and also rotate the mast as this is a directional antenna. My plan is to lock the mast down on the lower clamp and use the upper strictly as support.

[ncitro]

Thanks for the further insight, Neil.

I have two sections of 2" aluminum flagpole that I would like to mount the antenna to and attach the sections to the ladder. Would anyone know of or have suggestions of a way to accomplish this? Some type of double clamp maybe? I know the ladder is much smaller in diameter so it may be tricky. I would like to be able to raise and lower the mast from the ground and also rotate the mast as this is a directional antenna. My plan is to lock the mast down on the lower clamp and use the upper strictly as support.

Not much help there, I went with the Omni directional trucker antenna so I could use it while driving. It clamped directly to the ladder. I have a weather station on a 1.25 inch pipe that I used hose clamps to attach to the ladder. That would not give you the ability to aim it from the ground though.

[BillinTexas]

Changing gears on running the cable. I plan to use a marine bulkhead pass-through for the cable out the back wall. I'm now thinking since the water heater is on the passenger back corner, going through there and going to the underbelly to the fresh tank. Does anyone know if it's possible to access the water pump near the freshwater tank? If so I can bring it up there. I will be testing the system beginning next week and do a permanent install after returning for this trip if everything works according to plan.

[BillinTexas]

I have a few things left to do but only a couple before our upcoming trip. I wasn't sure exactly what hardware to use until a visit to a couple of the big box stores. Here are the pics and if anyone sees something that would concern them, speak up. I do have these four items that will be attended to including the couple mentioned above. I will make comments on the pics that need it.

• replace long screw in mast clamp with nut and bolt.
• drill drain holes at the bottom
• need to devise a brace for the mast at the top of the ladder
• mask off and touch up paint.

Once I determine it will work as planned, I will run the cable inside the ceiling cavity. I'll have a month to get that done before our next trip.

pics
Treated 2x4 with the cap screwed to it for base
4"x7"x3/8' u bolts
top of PVC with semi-circles to keep from turning once signal acquired
plumbing dept bracing
will be plenty above the roof