Water Heater ModelWH6GEA

[AZMike]

I know that I'm late to this party, but I just wanted to contribute the fact that I have the same WH and I can barely hear it when it's running on gas, and plenty of hot water.

[Cooper]

Just purchased a 2021 reflection 303RLS. When the water heater is on propane it works fine.
However it sounds like a jet engine times. The flame surges and no there is no constant flame.
normally I would adjust the air shutters to balance the air and gas mixture. However I see no air shutters.
Am I missing something?
How do you adjust the air/ gas mixture?
Please advise

Coops

another issue solved. Used a hose clamp to control the air flow. Nice blue steady flame. No more surges.

[NoPeeking]

another issue solved. Used a hose clamp to control the air flow. Nice blue steady flame. No more surges.

Very clever! I will try the same when I pull mine from storage in a couple of months. I still think something is amiss, though... shouldn't have to work-around for a proper flame.

Mike

[howson]

Cooper and NoPeeking


Forgive me in advance for getting on a soapbox...may not be a big deal but having to do a workaround on a propane-fired appliance causes me to pause. Something isn't right to need that clamp.

What comes to my mind if a change in air is required to get a proper flame is there could be an issue with the propane supply. It would be prudent to ensure the two-stage regulator is maintaining 11" of WC under load, the regulator in the heater is working correctly (I *think* where the red arrow is pointing is the test port) and that the orifice (the last exit point for the gas prior to mixing with the air) is clean and the right size. It is critically important that the orifice is correct. (Do not insert anything into the orifice in an attempt to clean it.)

All of that above should be easily understood by a qualified and certified RV technician. If they don't understand or don't know how to do those checks...find someone that does. If your camper is under warranty...and it was mine...I'd insist on having the system tested and verified for proper operation.

Soapbox put away...

Howard

[NoPeeking]

Cooper and NoPeeking


Forgive me in advance for getting on a soapbox...may not be a big deal but having to do a workaround on a propane-fired appliance causes me to pause. Something isn't right to need that clamp.

What comes to my mind if a change in air is required to get a proper flame is there could be an issue with the propane supply. It would be prudent to ensure the two-stage regulator is maintaining 11" of WC under load, the regulator in the heater is working correctly (I *think* where the red arrow is pointing is the test port) and that the orifice (the last exit point for the gas prior to mixing with the air) is clean and the right size. It is critically important that the orifice is correct. (Do not insert anything into the orifice in an attempt to clean it.)

All of that above should be easily understood by a qualified and certified RV technician. If they don't understand or don't know how to do those checks...find someone that does. If your camper is under warranty...and it was mine...I'd insist on having the system tested and verified for proper operation.

Soapbox put away...

Howard

Howard, soapbox much appreciated... this forum's value is in the soapbox. In my case, I do intend to have the dealer check the system under warranty when the trailer comes from winter storage, but I want to better understand the systems I have to deal with day-to-day. I replaced the regulator (subject of recall) with the GD (parts list) FlameKing, but did not have the dealer verify the WC pressure. All my (gas) appliances function without issue, including the outside kitchen stove having a gas connection not more than ~18" from the water heater. If all appliances fire properly, could outlier gas pressure at the water heater still be related to the regulator?

Mike

[howson]

Howard, soapbox much appreciated... this forum's value is in the soapbox. In my case, I do intend to have the dealer check the system under warranty when the trailer comes from winter storage, but I want to better understand the systems I have to deal with day-to-day. I replaced the regulator (subject of recall) with the GD (parts list) FlameKing, but did not have the dealer verify the WC pressure. All my (gas) appliances function without issue, including the outside kitchen stove having a gas connection not more than ~18" from the water heater. If all appliances fire properly, could outlier gas pressure at the water heater still be related to the regulator?

Mike

Mike,
The furnace, range, and refrigerator are all supplied with propane from a distribution block that is ~132" from the source (propane cylinders). Those appliances have their own supply hoses that "T" off of the block (all the lines off the block use flex hose) of various lengths. The water heater comes off that block, too, but much further down the line as there's a 180" long 1/2" I.D. trunk line that goes into another distribution block which then transitions to a 5/16" flex line that's 66" long to the heater. (Hope you followed all that...)

For comparison, the Furnace and Range are fed from 3/8" I.D. flex lines. The Refrigerator has a 5/16" line.

What I'm trying to convey is there's a lot of variables here: monitoring the WC pressure at the output of the two-stage regulator is a good start (that's the starting point of the system), but knowing what it is at the end of that long run where the water heater is located is important, too. There could be a pinch in that flex line or any number of other issues.

Also keep in mind it's at least 11" of WC under load. As long as the pressure doesn't exceed 14" of WC at the two-stage regulator when the load is removed, a qualified (and propane-licensed technician) could adjust the two-stage regulator if the pressure at the water heater was < 11" of WC.

Bottom line: I'd want to know why a modification is required to get the flame the proper blue and, if everything was to specification, get the OEM to approve any modification to the system.

Howard

P.S. Hope this isn't too much mumbo-jumbo...

[Cooper]

Cooper and NoPeeking


Forgive me in advance for getting on a soapbox...may not be a big deal but having to do a workaround on a propane-fired appliance causes me to pause. Something isn't right to need that clamp.

What comes to my mind if a change in air is required to get a proper flame is there could be an issue with the propane supply. It would be prudent to ensure the two-stage regulator is maintaining 11" of WC under load, the regulator in the heater is working correctly (I *think* where the red arrow is pointing is the test port) and that the orifice (the last exit point for the gas prior to mixing with the air) is clean and the right size. It is critically important that the orifice is correct. (Do not insert anything into the orifice in an attempt to clean it.)

All of that above should be easily understood by a qualified and certified RV technician. If they don't understand or don't know how to do those checks...find someone that does. If your camper is under warranty...and it was mine...I'd insist on having the system tested and verified for proper operation.

Soapbox put away...

Howard

Many thanks…will have this checked out

[NoPeeking]

Mike,
The furnace, range, and refrigerator are all supplied with propane from a distribution block that is ~132" from the source (propane cylinders). Those appliances have their own supply hoses that "T" off of the block (all the lines off the block use flex hose) of various lengths. The water heater comes off that block, too, but much further down the line as there's a 180" long 1/2" I.D. trunk line that goes into another distribution block which then transitions to a 5/16" flex line that's 66" long to the heater. (Hope you followed all that...)

For comparison, the Furnace and Range are fed from 3/8" I.D. flex lines. The Refrigerator has a 5/16" line.

Yes... this makes sense, Howard. I pictured a simpler system... a common header without distribution blocks and transitions. I have been educated before finishing my morning coffee... shaping up to be a good day!

Mike