Furrion 16cu side by side

[ajgreg1112]

Maiden voyage w 311bhs. Couldn’t get refrigerator or freezer to cool. Read manual no luck kept chiming every minute or so but it’s fully shut. We are on shore power but battery monitor reading 31%. Possibly user error!

[howson]

ajgreg1112 -- check the battery disconnect (the big red key in the passthru). If the key will remove or is turned the battery is not being charged by the converter. (A "converter" is a device that changes the 120vAC shore power to 12vDC.)


Also--welcome to the forum! Check out the Welcome Letter to New Members when you get a chance. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

Howard

[howson]

ajgreg1112 -- unfortunately, as you read in the manual, the beeping is because the refrigerator thinks the door is open or was left open >1 minute. This could be related to the battery issue, but the refrigerator has a "Low Voltage" mode, too.

Please be cautious about the temperature of any food in the refrigerator while you're figuring out what's wrong. This thread (started by fellow moderator TucsonJim is something you may want to read: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...d-temperatures

Howard

[ncitro]

ajgreg1112 of it thinks the door is open as Howard suggests look for the door sensors. Should be pins or some kind of switch the door presses on when you close it to tell the fridge the door is shut. You could also stick a camera in there and close the door and see if the light goes out.

[JBill9694]

Couple of more things to check:

Check that the seals are compressed with the doors closed. Easiest way is close the doors with a piece of paper inserted between the seal and the door (Many people use a dollar bill for the test but just about any piece of paper will do). When closed the door seal should grip the paper. Check several locations.

If there is a baffle between the doors make sure it swings all the way over when the door is shut. Close the half of the door with the baffle attached to it and manually pull on the baffle to make sure it has swung to the shut position.

If either or both of these checks fail, then the door(s) are out of plumb/square and will need to be shimmed to correct.

[cwhettinger]

We are on shore power but battery monitor reading 31%. Possibly user error!

We just bought our 311BHS last weekend and I have the same indications on the battery monitor, did you figure out this part of your original question? Any help appreciated.

[howson]

We just bought our 311BHS last weekend and I have the same indications on the battery monitor, did you figure out this part of your original question? Any help appreciated.

May seem like unrelated questions but there's a reason for them:

1) Are you on Shore Power?
2) If you ARE connected to shore power, turn the Battery Disconnect key to the OFF position (key comes out). Do the lights in the ceiling of the camper still work? (Put the key back in and turn the disconnect back ON when finished testing.)
3) If NOT connected to shore power...that could be the problem! (Draining the battery.)

Howard

P.S. Welcome to the forum!

[cwhettinger]

1) Are you on Shore Power?

No, I am not on shore power currently. I have been intermittently plugging in the 7 pin of my truck to try and figure out what the display is telling me, but otherwise operating off of a 165watt solar panel with a 12v lead acid deep cycle battery.

2) If you ARE connected to shore power, turn the Battery Disconnect key to the OFF position (key comes out). Do the lights in the ceiling of the camper still work? (Put the key back in and turn the disconnect back ON when finished testing.)

I am not connected to shore power. The battery disconnect in the off position stops lights from illuminating. With the battery disconnect in the off position, the fridge still runs. (This was what started my confusion about the electrical tbh)

3) If NOT connected to shore power...that could be the problem! (Draining the battery.)

I am wanting to understand - if the % is indicating 33% power, is that saying the battery is below 50% and thus causing damage to the lead acid? I had it on a trickle charger overnight and it remained in the high 30's when it got plugged back in today. The battery is brand new as of saturday (4/22 manufacture date).

P.S. Welcome to the forum!

Thank you! I am so excited to have this RV and get adventuring with my family.

[howson]

cwhettinger -- the solar panel is not keeping up with the demand put on the battery. Yes, I think the battery is getting quite low and should be recharged as soon as possible via shore power or a generator (using the camper's built-in converter). Do you have access to either source of 120vAC?

[howson]

cwhettinger -- also sorry about the slow responses--working on a project in the back yard and checking in occasionally.

[howson]

The battery disconnect in the off position stops lights from illuminating. With the battery disconnect in the off position, the fridge still runs. (This was what started my confusion about the electrical tbh)

The name "Battery Disconnect" is a misnomer. It does not completely disconnect the battery from the RV. As you now know, the refrigerator is wired directly to the battery and is protected by a fuse. Without a way to keep the battery charged the refrigerator will take your battery down to nothing (and yes, that will ruin a lead acid).

[cwhettinger]

also sorry about the slow responses--working on a project in the back yard and checking in occasionally.

Don't apologize! You've been incredibly helpful. I know these are newbie questions so it is just a blessing to have experienced guidance.

cwhettinger -- the solar panel is not keeping up with the demand put on the battery. Yes, I think the battery is getting quite low and should be recharged as soon as possible via shore power or a generator (using the camper's built-in converter). Do you have access to either source of 120vAC?

This is exactly what I was fearing - Do you think a trickle charger (12v 2amp) would be enough to charge it given the draw of the fridge or do i need to remove the fridge fuse (or disconnect the battery entirely) to charge it up?

The name "Battery Disconnect" is a misnomer. It does not completely disconnect the battery from the RV. As you now know, the refrigerator is wired directly to the battery and is protected by a fuse. Without a way to keep the battery charged the refrigerator will take your battery down to nothing (and yes, that will ruin a lead acid).

Makes a lot of sense. The discharged condition is what I'm trying to avoid. So you are saying the 33% is "charge" meaning it is critical at this point? I can basically view that % indicator as if it is above 50% im at a healthy battery level?

[howson]

This is exactly what I was fearing - Do you think a trickle charger (12v 2amp) would be enough to charge it given the draw of the fridge or do i need to remove the fridge fuse (or disconnect the battery entirely) to charge it up?

If there's nothing in the refrigerator, isn't there a way to turn it off? (There should be a control in the door.) I wouldn't disconnect the battery if you're going to be in the trailer--it's my understanding that certain safety items in the trailer (LP detector most notably) run off 12v.

I don't think a 2 amp trickle charger is gonna do it. Batteries charge using a BULK - ABSORPTION - FLOAT profile. AMSolar's engineer explains it well in the video posted at the end.

Out of curiosity...how will the 2 amp trickle charger be powered? If you can get power to a trickle charger, better to buy an adapter and plug in your camper to that power source. Just be very careful with your power management so the camper doesn't blow the source circuit breaker (assumption is a 15A/120VaC home circuit or something similar).

Makes a lot of sense. The discharged condition is what I'm trying to avoid. So you are saying the 33% is "charge" meaning it is critical at this point? I can basically view that % indicator as if it is above 50% im at a healthy battery level?

Yes -- if the meter is accurate 33% is a critically low state. Some action is required ASAP.

-Howard Four Stages of Battery Charging for Your RV, Skoolie or Van (Garret Towne, AMSolar Engineer)

[On The Fly]

It does not sound like this problem was ever resolved ? The 16 cu foot Furrion draws almost 160 amps per day. The side by side refrigerator will have no problem draining two dealer installed lead acid batteries in a single day. The destruction of your batteries will occur even with the mandatory 165w solar package. If you perform a search on this site you will see several posts concerning this refrigerator, and ways to correct this design issue.

[cwhettinger]

If there's nothing in the refrigerator, isn't there a way to turn it off?

I called grand design - the only way to disconnect the fridge is to remove it from the enclosure/cabinet of the slide and get to a fuse that is behind the unit. Other than that, you have to remove the battery connection as the disconnect doesn't apply to the fridge.

Out of curiosity...how will the 2 amp trickle charger be powered? If you can get power to a trickle charger, better to buy an adapter and plug in your camper to that power source. Just be very careful with your power management so the camper doesn't blow the source circuit breaker (assumption is a 15A/120VaC home circuit or something similar).

I currently have a battery minder brand unit connected to a normal 110v outlet on the side of a building. Are you suggesting to get a 50amp->110 adapter and use that cable to trickle charge it through the camper's electrical system? Is 110v enough to do so?

Thanks again for the help, sorry for the delay in responding.