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Changing out Refrigerator on 2017 2600RB

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  • ncitro
    replied
    Originally posted by KEEHALLMAN View Post

    ncitro - I went to Google and entered:

    site:gdrvowners refrigerator

    but got no results. Tried other search criteria also with no results. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
    You need site:gdrvowners.com refrigerator

    pretty sure that should do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • MidwestCamper
    replied
    Originally posted by Strider View Post

    As a retired engineer I have already planned on upgrading the wiring which will be easy since the power distribution panel is just below the fridge and there are spare fuses available. I am planning on doing this next year and I want to have everything ready for the switch out. I will provide some feedback after I do the swap.

    Thanks to all with their inputs.

    Chris
    Welcome to the retired engineer club. There are plenty of us here as well as many other talented folks from a variety of backgrounds.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • KEEHALLMAN
    replied
    Originally posted by ncitro View Post

    Welcome to the forum, there's several threads discussing this,some of us have done 120v fridges and recently some have done the 12v. The search feature on the forum isn't the greatest, I recommend using Google to search this site. In the search bar type site:gdrvowners a space and then your search criteria. I find this works well. Specifically I was just having a discussion with someone earlier this week about the wire size needed and where to get the supply from.
    ncitro - I went to Google and entered:

    site:gdrvowners refrigerator

    but got no results. Tried other search criteria also with no results. Any ideas? Thanks in advance

    Leave a comment:


  • Strider
    replied
    Originally posted by acoleman43 View Post

    I replaced our Norcold 2-way with a Norcold 12v fridge. I left the vents open, but will probably close them up eventually to help with insulation when trying to heat/cool the trailer - although the lower vent opening really helped with installation (getting the fridge level).

    A couple things to consider if you haven't already done so:
    -DC wiring for the 2 way fridge was not sufficient for the 12v fridge. I added a 10 awg wire to the new 12v fridge. Carefully consider proper wire size.
    -Do you want to connect the 12v fridge to the main distribution panel, or do you want to connect it directly to the batteries? If connecting to batteries, consider adding a shut-off and fuse.
    -I had to do some cabinetry work to install. the Norcold 12v fridge doesn't have a "trim package" to trim out around the fridge....I had to make my own trim.

    Hope this helps
    As a retired engineer I have already planned on upgrading the wiring which will be easy since the power distribution panel is just below the fridge and there are spare fuses available. I am planning on doing this next year and I want to have everything ready for the switch out. I will provide some feedback after I do the swap.

    Thanks to all with their inputs.

    Chris

    Leave a comment:


  • acoleman43
    replied
    Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post

    Can you provide us with the cost of the 12V fridge and the required current? And a Pic?

    Thank you,

    Jim
    Cost for Norcold N8DC including taxes and shipping was $1,457.49. Bought it from The Norcold Guy in October 2021. Typical amp draw is 7-9 amps for us. Can be as low as 4 or 5 amps in night mode. Wire run is about 20' to the main distribution panel (I wanted to use the fuse in the distribution panel for convenience and I do keep DC power on when traveling).

    Trailer is in for warranty work right now so I'll try to remember to get a pic in a week or 2.

    Leave a comment:


  • ncitro
    replied
    Originally posted by Strider View Post
    Thanks All,

    I verified that I have a Norcold 6 cubic foot. Looks like I may have some cabinetry work to do. A question that I do have is the gas fridges vent through the roof do you just leave it as is or do you have to seal the roof?

    Chris
    Mine was in a slide so I had two wall vents and no roof vent but I'd close them all off. If I remember right when you remove the fridge those vents basically open the living space to outside air and bugs. Post 5 here details the covers I had made :



    https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...l-fridge-model

    Leave a comment:


  • MidwestCamper
    replied
    Originally posted by acoleman43 View Post

    I replaced our Norcold 2-way with a Norcold 12v fridge. I left the vents open, but will probably close them up eventually to help with insulation when trying to heat/cool the trailer - although the lower vent opening really helped with installation (getting the fridge level).

    A couple things to consider if you haven't already done so:
    -DC wiring for the 2 way fridge was not sufficient for the 12v fridge. I added a 10 awg wire to the new 12v fridge. Carefully consider proper wire size.
    -Do you want to connect the 12v fridge to the main distribution panel, or do you want to connect it directly to the batteries? If connecting to batteries, consider adding a shut-off and fuse.
    -I had to do some cabinetry work to install. the Norcold 12v fridge doesn't have a "trim package" to trim out around the fridge....I had to make my own trim.

    Hope this helps
    Can you provide us with the cost of the 12V fridge and the required current? And a Pic?

    Thank you,

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • acoleman43
    replied
    Originally posted by Strider View Post
    Thanks All,

    I verified that I have a Norcold 6 cubic foot. Looks like I may have some cabinetry work to do. A question that I do have is the gas fridges vent through the roof do you just leave it as is or do you have to seal the roof?

    Chris
    I replaced our Norcold 2-way with a Norcold 12v fridge. I left the vents open, but will probably close them up eventually to help with insulation when trying to heat/cool the trailer - although the lower vent opening really helped with installation (getting the fridge level).

    A couple things to consider if you haven't already done so:
    -DC wiring for the 2 way fridge was not sufficient for the 12v fridge. I added a 10 awg wire to the new 12v fridge. Carefully consider proper wire size.
    -Do you want to connect the 12v fridge to the main distribution panel, or do you want to connect it directly to the batteries? If connecting to batteries, consider adding a shut-off and fuse.
    -I had to do some cabinetry work to install. the Norcold 12v fridge doesn't have a "trim package" to trim out around the fridge....I had to make my own trim.

    Hope this helps

    Leave a comment:


  • howson
    replied
    Originally posted by Strider View Post
    Thanks All,

    I verified that I have a Norcold 6 cubic foot. Looks like I may have some cabinetry work to do. A question that I do have is the gas fridges vent through the roof do you just leave it as is or do you have to seal the roof?

    Chris
    Chris,
    Given the replacement is a compressor-driven refrigerator, I'd close off the side and roof vents associated with the Norcold (absorption) refrigerator. No reason to leave the openings (critter entrance, unwanted heat/cold loss, etc).

    Howard

    Leave a comment:


  • Strider
    replied
    Thanks All,

    I verified that I have a Norcold 6 cubic foot. Looks like I may have some cabinetry work to do. A question that I do have is the gas fridges vent through the roof do you just leave it as is or do you have to seal the roof?

    Chris

    Leave a comment:


  • TucsonJim
    replied
    Welcome to the forum. I switched to a 10 cubic foot Norcold DC reefer about three years ago. It's still running strong and I'm happy with the change.

    Jim.

    Leave a comment:


  • Country Campers
    replied
    Welcome,

    I believe that you have the Dometic 8 cu ft fridge now. I replaced ours with the Furrion 10 cu ft 12 v dc fridge and have been happy with it. The process was a little work but a really easy pull out the old and slide in the new. I built a small stand the height of which matches the bottom of the fridge and just slid the old one out onto the stand and removed from the RV, reversed process for the new one. Depending on the space inside you may have to remove the doors but I think in your model you will not have to. I did do an install write up here and will try to find later.

    Brian

    Leave a comment:


  • ncitro
    replied
    Originally posted by Strider View Post
    Good Morning,
    I am looking for recommendations and any installation issues with changing out my old gas fridge with a 12 v compressor fridge. I have been RVing for over 20 years and I am tired of the long cool down and marginal performance of gas fridges. I will probably do the work myself since I have a long history of auto/RV repair experience. Please do not discuss the pros and cons of the switch-out as I have made up my mind.
    Thanks
    Welcome to the forum, there's several threads discussing this,some of us have done 120v fridges and recently some have done the 12v. The search feature on the forum isn't the greatest, I recommend using Google to search this site. In the search bar type site:gdrvowners a space and then your search criteria. I find this works well. Specifically I was just having a discussion with someone earlier this week about the wire size needed and where to get the supply from.

    Leave a comment:


  • Strider
    started a topic Changing out Refrigerator on 2017 2600RB

    Changing out Refrigerator on 2017 2600RB

    Good Morning,
    I am looking for recommendations and any installation issues with changing out my old gas fridge with a 12 v compressor fridge. I have been RVing for over 20 years and I am tired of the long cool down and marginal performance of gas fridges. I will probably do the work myself since I have a long history of auto/RV repair experience. Please do not discuss the pros and cons of the switch-out as I have made up my mind.
    Thanks
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