Wago Connectors - Use on Electric Brake Wiring OK?

[Sandridge4]

Yoda I had to cut the brake wires on mine when I was replacing the freshwater tank and hadn’t planned on it so in a pinch I used this style of connector for the brake wires. So far they seem to be working well.
https://a.co/d/hOUqSvb

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Thanks Brian, but it is a mid line connection for 3 wires to the first brake axle, 1 in, 1 out, and one to axle. I checked the 10 butt connector I have and they wont accommodate the 3 #14 wires twisted together, in fact just two in one end is not a good fit either. I am trying to replace the 3M scotch connector in post #1

First of all, you don't twist t before inserting in a butt connector... second... get a bigger butt connector so they fit.

[TedS]

Use a three leg crimp terminal. Or bolt three ring terminals together.

[Yoda]

First of all, you don't twist t before inserting in a butt connector... second... get a bigger butt connector so they fit.

Thanks Scott
Problem here is finding a local source of a butt connectors to take 3-#14 wires. the 10 awg I have is too tight. Napa has #8 awg and #6 awg in stock. However I do have a good set of plain ferrules that should work and my big hex crimp die set and I think I can get enough slack in the line to do it on the ground - then heat shrink tubing with silicone afterward. Heck with it on the ground I might be able to add a dab of solder to the very end once the ferrule is crimped - or is that overkill?

Keith

[Yoda]

Use a three leg crimp terminal. Or bolt three ring terminals together.

Ted - how do you insulate the center from contacting anything - tape it up?
Thanks
Keith

[COReflection]

OK one last thing before the axles go in. I did a search but found nothing definite for this application. But you all know my search ability.
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...nnectors/page2 Good general opinions.
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ace-dead/page2 Post #29 had an issues with one
There are others withe a tidbit mentioning the Wago


On various GD brand forums I keep seeing failures of the 3M - Scotch knife compression connectors, so I want to replace them on my unit.

This is what I am talking about
Inside the connector the wires are splice together whit what I call a knife splicer the cuts the insulation and makes contacts with the wires, in many cases cutting a few or many wires.. I have had theses fail on various circuits like the speaker wire runs.

In the past I have used crimp bulb connectors like these https://www.amazon.com/Closed-Crimp-...hvpos=&hvnetw= g&hvrand=5882874536078160121&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvq mt =&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029145&h vt argid=pla-1201542502452&psc=1 They are available in heat shrink versions, but I have also covered with heat shrink tubing.

I also have been using Wago connectors lately https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GR8V4SV...t_details&th=1 I think GD is now suing them too. However they are not waterproof. But do they need to be above the coroplast, or do I need to get the WAGO Gelbox https://www.wago.com/us/discover-wir...lbox-from-wago



So any opinions on using the Wago on the electric brake wiring? I still need to trace it out looking for any chafing through the forward bulkhead. I have found some minor chafing on the red cover elsewhere

Thanks in advance for your thoughts
Keith

When I started out in the automotive industry and then momentarily drifted towards moving into the airplane repair industry....we were taught to never trust any type of Scotch-Lock, or knife-type crimp connector. In fact, when I worked for GM and at many dealerships---those were the first things we were taught to remove. It was only a matter of "when" not "if" those connections would fail especially if they were exposed to any type of moisture. Now, nearly 40 years later---in my car restoration shop...I am still removing them and replacing with soldering and glue filled shrink tubing. This is the method that I was taught as the best! I already had these types of connections fail on the new car hauler trailer that I bought just a few years ago and I live in CO where it's super dry. I immediately removed them all to solder and shrink wrap the electric brake connections and any connections that used butt connectors up near the tongue. I would highly recommend removing them and using the soldering method before the connections fail. It's one more peace of mind thing that can be done to ensure you don't have any electrical issues. I have diagnosed and repaired hundreds of electrical issues on automobiles and campers over the years and try to prevent them if at all possible, by using the best practices. Recently I had a 78 Pontiac Trans Am in my shop where the previous hack mechanic had sold the owner a new harness for his car....only to take the new harness and butcher it up with about 100 Scotch-Lock connectors rather than doing things correctly. I told the owner the only course of action was to remove the "new" harness, replace and start over if he wanted my name on the repair. Pricks and cut insulation in wires that can be exposed to moisture and other issues is a recipe for disaster! I'm sure there are lots of You Tube videos on how to solder/shrink wrap correctly and effectively.

Dave

[TedS]

Ted - how do you insulate the center from contacting anything - tape it up?
Thanks
Keith

Sure. Or ziptie it and/or the wires so it doesn't move and make contact.

[Cate&Rob]

Yoda

You can get “step down” heat shrink connectors that make inserting two wires into one end and one wire into the other end, a better fit.
https://www.grote.com/electrical-con...tt-connectors/

Rob

[AlexPeterson]

Yoda

Soldering upside down can be challenging... I got beat up here for preferring good wire nuts to the Wago connectors a year or so ago, but I'd still trust a properly installed wire nut 10x over the Wago style (I don't like the tiny contact area nor the ease of movement of the wire). The wire should be stripped about a half inch, a little more if a red size nut is used. Make sure the ends of the three wires are well aligned and install the wire nut using mostly turning, with very little pushing. Pre-twisting the stranded wire a little by hand prior to installing the nut is helpful. Turn it as tight as you can, which will extend the twist out of the nut a ways. Since it will be in the elements, fill up the open end of the nut with a dielectric grease, and orient the open end of the wire nut towards down. I don't know the size of those wires, but most likely a yellow or red one is what you need. Ideal is a good brand of wire nut, dunno about all the others out there.

[JBill9694]

Not traveling earthquake rated, but how about looking at waterproof electrical connectors for sprinkler systems? Most of these are gel-filled wire nuts, but some do have a locking lid.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Using ring terminals and bolting them together with a small 10-32 machine screw is an option. Then cut the extra length of the screw off after it's tightened up and then tape. It's the way I'd go. The added benefit of reasonably easy disassembly in future if required without cutting wires.

Edit...whoops..I see Ted already suggested this.

[Yoda]

Yoda

You can get “step down” heat shrink connectors that make inserting two wires into one end and one wire into the other end, a better fit.
https://www.grote.com/electrical-con...tt-connectors/

Rob

Thanks Rob
My problem is if I order what size do I need????????. I can find no charts that show say 3#14 together - use #x bulb. or two #12 and a #14. or even 2#14. Worst case is 3#10 wires for my new 12v power plug project where I am running new wires in the underbelly and using existing floor penetrations to get to the cabinets.

Now the irony here is I went to find my Wago 3 position connectors that I carefully put away to test heat shrink tubing on , and I cant find them I wanted to see how it would seal up and if I could remove somewhat easily if needed. I thought I might practice soldering too and so other ideas, before I get under and start cutting thing out

I have counted roughly 50 of the Scotch connectors, some used as simple wire terminators - many on the tank sensor wiring, speaker wiring, trailer running and brake/turn signals and other wires I have not identified yet. I'll get a few pictures - very scary. For most I can use closed end (bulb) connectors with heat shrink tubing or heat shrink bulb connectors if I can find them . I also came up with a way to protect wiring runs through the cross member openings - hollow oversized pool noodles.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and help

Keith

PS the reason you cant get the Wago gel boxes here (US) yet is they are having them UL certified. Should be available by the end of the year. I can get them, but $18 each (need 2) and $40 shipping Made me wonder if I could just cast them in silicone block using a mold?

[TedS]

Use a busbar. Many options to make a multi-wire connection.

[Yoda]

Solution has been found

https://www.jttproducts.com/in-line-...rimp-seal.aspx
https://www.wiringdepot.com/in-line-...rimp-seal.aspx
Robs Cate&Rob link https://www.grote.com/electrical-con...ctors/83-2625/ I was having trouble understanding the sizing. Pricing for theses seems a bit higher too.

I called Wiring Depot and verified what sizes I needed for various options and future projects.They answered the phone and knew exactly what I was trying to do. The also have the heat shrink bulb connectors, but nothing lage enough for most of what I was trying to do. A bit pricey, but I know they will work, The are sized for 2 wires on one side with one on the other side so for my 12V DC plugs in the trailer I need the 2272F here https://www.jttproducts.com/in-line-...rimp-seal.aspx as 2 #10 will fit in the 8awg side. For my brakes I need the 2271F as two #14 will fit the 10 awg side with one #14 out to the axles as original was wired - replaces scotch lock. At least I hope I have this correct.

Thoughts?

Keith

On edit - found the Grote on Zoro Still looking for the best deal, but need to order soon.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Wow...never seen those before. Nice!
Previously I have folded over wire on the side with smaller wire to make regular butt connectors work.