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  • Major lighting upgrade for Imagine 2600RB

    Yesterday, 5/8/20, my wife made a Facebook post on the GD Owners Facebook page about some recent work we’ve done on our Imagine and there were lots of questions. So, I did a quick write up of the lighting upgrade we recently did. When we upgraded our 5-year-old Salem travel trailer to a new 2020 Imaging 2600RB last November, we were very pleasantly surprised to find how bright the main cabin LED ceiling lights were. No more struggling with dim low voltage week incandescent bulbs trying to work on some small project at the dinette table!! It then became clear on our first shakedown camping trip that although the bright light was fantastic when working on something it was a little too much when seeking a relaxing laid back atmosphere. That set in motion a four-phase trailer wide lighting project. The thinking was to use some lighting and electrical components I had not worked with before and to do it in a way so that each phase was a test of components and learning experience for me to build on for each consecutive phase. I have a working knowledge of both electronics and lighting from my profession as a foundation. The goals of the four phases was to create the ability to dim some of the ceiling lights, add white lighting inside some of the cabinets throughout the camper, add better work lighting over the sink and galley counter and then add some controllable accent/decorative color around the interior of the camper. All of these lights are on 12v DC circuits. In researching what components to use and working out the basic design plan it became clear some of the elements could be controlled with simple on/off switches, but some needed to be remotely controlled because a physical switch was impractical.
    Just a word of caution, always check any circuit you are working on with a meter or voltage probe to clearly identify if it is AC/hot, neutral or ground, DC/12v+ or ground and always work on any circuit with the voltage supply confirmed to be turned off.


    Phase 1
    Phase one was to test the Mi.Light remote control system I had settled on. The Imagine 2600RB has one slide out on the driver side that holds the dinette and a pair of theater recliners. In the ceiling of the slide out there is a decorative lighting fixture over the dinette and an overhead light over the theater seats each with on/off switches at the light fixtures but powered by the same 12v supply. The goal was to add a dimmer to both sets of lights. I decided to add a remote control dimmer in the 12v supply in front of the first light in the chain. This dims both lights at the same time. We reasoned that both sets of lights would rarely be used at the same time so no need to have one bright and one dim and there was still an on/off switch at each light. The first fixture in the circuit was the dome light over the theater chairs. I chose a Mi.Light LS2 Smart Light 5 in 1 wireless controller, Fig. 1 (link below), as the control device and a Mi.Light LG089 remote, Fig. 2 (link below). The LS2 is a controller commonly used in LED strip lighting to control multi-color LED strip lighting. Depending on how it is configured it can control from one color up to 5 colors (RGB+CCT or red, green, blue, warm white, cool white). This was important because I planned to use multi-color LED strips for phase 4 and I wanted to use one type of controller and one remote to operate the entire system. I opened up the ceiling above the dome light over the theater chairs just enough to slide the LS2 into the ceiling and wired the LS2 so the input comes from the 12v DC circuit panel and the output feeds the dome light and the run that continues on to the light above the dinette. The LS2 was configured to drive a single color (the white dome light and dinette light) and programmed to zone 1 on the remote. It can now be dimmed by use of the remote while the individual light fixtures can be turned on and off at their local switches.

    Figure 1-LS2 controller
    See figure 1 at the bottom of the post


    Figure 2-Mi.Light 8 zone wireless remote
    See figure 2 at the bottom of the post

    Phase 2
    Phase 2 was in two parts focused on adding the ability to dim the 6 ceiling light fixtures in the main cabin and 4 ceiling light fixtures in the bedroom and each location had to be dealt with differently. First the bedroom. The bedroom lights were controlled by a wall switch made by American Technology Components, Inc. and was a basic SPST on/off switch that opened or closed a contact on the 12+ side of the circuit. I found that ATC makes a switch that looks identical to my original switch but added a dimmer slider next to the switch, AH-SLD1-5-HS001 (link below). At the time it was available through Amazon but it no longer seems to be there. The switch can be purchased through ATC on their site. The link below is to their catalog site. There is a trick to using this switch since it is a pulse width modulated (PWM) dimmer and requires a reference ground for the switch to work. The switch has three wires, 12+ for supply voltage, load (to the positive side of your light fixture) and a ground. In my instance the ground side of the bedroom light circuit takes a different path than the 12+ supply so I had to locate an alternate ground that was accessible through the wall. Note the slide dimmer to the right of the switch in fig 3.

    Figure 3-ATC slide dimmer switch
    See figure 3 at the bottom of the post​​​​​​​

    ​​​​​​​

    The second part of phase 2 was to add dimming to the 6 main cabin ceiling lights. These lights were controlled by a rocker switch on the convenience panel. I was doing some searches here on the technical side of the GD Owners Forum and found this thread, https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...-awning-lights. Also, a big “shout out” to howson, one of the forum moderators, for supplying a lot of information on where to get some of the parts for this part of the project. On that forum thread you will find details on where to order the special 3D printed plate needed to mount the dimmer into one of the small rocker switch mounting holes on the Convenience Panel. I used the PWM rotary dimmer mentioned in the awning light thread along with the 3D printed plate. In my case, I wanted to keep the rocker switch to easily turn the cabin lights on and off without changing the dimmer setting. I wired the switches in series so the 12+ DC supply first goes through the original rocker switch then to the 12+DC supply side of the dimmer switch that is then connected to the load side of the lights. This dimmer switch has three wires which can make it a little confusing but the directions with the switch show a way to wire it with only a 12+DC and load (the lights) so just follow the directions and you should be fine. I then used one of the open small rocker switch openings right below my main cabin rocker switch to insert the 3D printed plate by snapping it into the open hole then mounted the rotary rocker switch to the 3D printed plate. It is very important when ordering the rotary dimmer that you get the long shaft version so it fits properly with the 3D printed plate. Also, I’m not using it this way but this rotary switch does rotate to turn all the way off so it can be used as an on/off/dimmer switch. I won’t add any pictures here since there are several pictures on the awning light thread and the installation in my case was exactly the same, and yes… I did install a second rotary dimmer to dim our awning lights at the same time. Amazon link to the rotary switch is below.

    To be continued
    Attached Files
    Last edited by DavidC; 05-09-2020, 08:56 PM.
    David & Kari +2 Dogs (Cream & Winston)
    2020 2600RB (Bill Plemmons in Rural Hall, NC)
    2017 Ford F-150 5.0L

  • #2
    Phase 3
    Phase 3 was to add light to our large cabinets in the main cabin and overhead cabinets in the bedroom and was the initial test in working with LED strip lights. I’ll include a list and links of the components below. Unfortunately I was not able to find exactly what I was looking for in all my LED strip light needs from a US vendor so ended up ordering everything from China but because of the size of my order, ordering everything for Phase 3 and 4 at the same time, I got free shipping. One of the main goals with these lights beyond just adding the lights was to install them in a way that they could not be seen and what could be seen looked like it was factory installed. To that end I chose a 4mm wide high brightness LED strip and 6mm wide aluminum channel with an opaque lens cover. Also, in my humble opinion, I was concerned about the voltage range of the 12volt system in the real-world RV environment that easily goes as high as 14+ volts when the charger is charging the batteries. In my opinion, these 12v DC strip lights are designed to work on a steady fixed 12v DC power supply and occasionally supplying them with 14+ volts DC could stress the LEDs and cause them to fail prematurely. I was putting a lot of time and money into this installation and didn’t want to have to do it again so in all the circuits driving any of the LED strip lights I included a DC to DC BUCK converter (link below). This is a nifty little low voltage device that allows you to regulate the output voltage to a maximum limit regardless how the input voltage varies. Meaning, it can be set so that the output voltage never rises above 12v DC even when the input voltage rises above 14v DC and it does it without using resistors that would add an extra currant draw on batteries. This was important for us since we occasionally boondock and I wanted this to work well when running only off of batteries. There is one downside since you can’t make electricity from nothing. The input voltage must be at least 1.5 volts above the output voltage. If the input voltage drops below the set point on the output, the output voltage begins to drop consistent with the drop of input voltage. In other words, if the set point is 12v and the input voltage drops to 12v then the resulting output voltage will drop to 10.5v according to the converter spec. In real world I found it to only be a difference of less than 1v. This really isn’t much of a problem for the LEDs, they don’t mind slightly low voltage but definitely don’t like higher voltages and turning the voltage down only dims the LED a very small amount and puts less of a load on the batteries. In our installation I chose to solder the wire connections on the LED strips for a couple reasons. First, I was installing the strip lights in aluminum channel then covering that with a lens and I didn’t want to have to get back into the LED strips to fix loose connections in the future. Second, I knew with our preference to get off the beaten path to find out of the way camp sites the trailer was going to get bounced around a lot and I didn’t want the bouncing to knock connections loose. That made wiring up the LED strips somewhat difficult but, in the end, I think it will prove worthwhile. I’ve spent a lot of time in my profession soldering on small electrical wires and connectors, so I felt confident about dealing with the small 4mm LED strip. The trick was a very fine (pencil thin) and clean soldering tip on a quality temperature-controlled soldering station and very fine solder. This is the station I used. Fig. 4. The pictures after that are of the installation.

    Figure 4-Soldering Station
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    Figure 5-Solder connections
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    Figure 6-LED strip wired in aluminum channel
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    Figure 7-LED strip with lens cover
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    Figure 8-LED strip installed with clips
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    Figure 9-Finished Product
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    Last edited by DavidC; 05-09-2020, 08:28 PM.
    David & Kari +2 Dogs (Cream & Winston)
    2020 2600RB (Bill Plemmons in Rural Hall, NC)
    2017 Ford F-150 5.0L

    Comment


    • #3
      Wiring for the cabinet in the main cabin was done through the void behind the Convenience Panel. I used a small rocker switch in an empty rocker switch hole tapping into the 12v DC supply for the Convenience Panel and added a ground into the ground buss wire available behind the Convenience Panel. The 12+ DC from the switch and the ground were wired to the input side of the BUCK converter, the + and - output of the converter were direct to the LED strips. Link to the rocker switch is below.

      Figure 10-Wiring the BUCK converter
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      Figure 11-Setting limit on BUCK converter
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      I also installed the same sort of circuit in the overhead storage above the bed. In this case I used the same wall switch as was originally used in the bedroom ceiling lights and matched all the other wall light switches throughout the camper. I used the 12v DC wiring for the USB outlet just below the closet along with a BUCK converter and ran the wire up the inside of the closet to a switch on each side of the bed to turn on\off the LED strip lighting on the matching side of the overhead.

      Figure 12-Bedroom Overhead
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      Phase 4
      Phase 4 had two elements. The first was to add work light over the sink and galley counter to replace the single dome light in the corner that just was not enough to cover the entire counter and sink. That light was planned to be on/off controlled by a matching wall switch added in a small open spot next to the edge of the sink back splash. Secondary to the work light was to include the option to control a little color lighting for atmosphere lighting as part of that work light fixture. Element two was to add additional controlled color lighting above the cabinet over the sink, in a open storage cubby above the microwave, behind the TV in the TV cubby and under the bathroom medicine cabinet. The plan was to exclusively use the wireless remote control mentioned in Phase 1 to control each of those elements. That drove the choice of using a 5 color LED strip light system, RGB+CCT or Red, Green, Blue, Warm White, Cool White. My wife wanted to be able to use the light over the sink and counter as a work light for cooking which necessitated the use of a medium white color temperature but we also wanted to use that light in a softer setting mood but still white to see by needing a warm white. Lastly, we wanted to be able to have the counter light match the other color lighting above the sink cabinet, small storage cubby above the microwave, TV cubby and under the bathroom medicine cabinet so the same LED strip lighting was used in all 5 places. Each location, with the exception of above the cabinet over the sink and the small storage cubby above the microwave which share the same circuit, have their own controller so each location can be a different color, different dim level and different on/off state if desired. Each of the 4 controllers for RGB+CCT was programmed to different zones on the remote. I opted to use the metal clips provided by the vendor to install the aluminum channel instead of double sided tape to make a more permanent install. The one difference between all the locations is that the light over the sink and counter is normally left at a medium white color temperature using the LED remote and can be turned on and off by a wall switch next to the sink and so is available as a work light at any time. Again, just like the cabinet lighting in Phase 3 each circuit is protected with a DC to DC BUCK converter set to keep the voltage going to the LED strips just a fraction below 12v. All wiring is run through wall voids or inside blind spots in cabinets. In the next series of pictures, the first is the new wall switch that was cut into the wall for the over counter lighting. The rest are wiring and install of the RGB+CCT light strips in aluminum channel and lens covers and finally some views of the final result at work.

      Click image for larger version

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      Last edited by DavidC; 05-09-2020, 08:35 PM.
      David & Kari +2 Dogs (Cream & Winston)
      2020 2600RB (Bill Plemmons in Rural Hall, NC)
      2017 Ford F-150 5.0L

      Comment


      • #4
        DavidC

        Great write up and thanks for sharing. Unfortunately the pictures are not showing up. Could you please check to see if there is a problem with how you posted these. You can edit the posts and remove the pictures and re-attach new ones.

        Brian
        Brian & Michelle
        2018 Reflection 29RS
        2022 Chevy 3500HD

        Comment


        • #5
          DavidC -- I echo my friend Country Campers comments and will add a "Wow"! That was a very comprehensive write-up.

          The list of parts is very helpful, too. I know the effort your posts take to assemble, so thanks for taking the time to contribute to the GD Owner's Forum.

          ​​​​​​​Brian or I can help with the pics if you can't figure it out.
          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

          2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

          Comment


          • #6
            The rest of the pictures and parts list
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            Mi.Light LS2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            Mi.Light LG089 remote https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            American Technology Components dimmer switch
            https://www.atcomp.com/product/ah-sld1-5-hs001/

            American Technology Components standard SPST on/off wall switch
            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            12v Rotary long shaft dimmer switch
            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            DC to DC BUCK Converter
            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            Lighted Rocker Switch
            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            4mm White only LED strip Natural White non-waterproof
            https://www.superlightingled.com/dc1...ting-p-89.html

            6mm wide Recessed Extruded Aluminum Channel
            https://www.superlightingled.com/hlb...hts-p-466.html

            RGB+CCT LED Strip light
            https://www.superlightingled.com/sin...eel-p-886.html

            12mm wide aluminum channel
            https://www.superlightingled.com/hlb...hts-p-467.html
            David & Kari +2 Dogs (Cream & Winston)
            2020 2600RB (Bill Plemmons in Rural Hall, NC)
            2017 Ford F-150 5.0L

            Comment


            • #7
              Final pictures
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              Bathroom under medicine cabinet
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              David & Kari +2 Dogs (Cream & Winston)
              2020 2600RB (Bill Plemmons in Rural Hall, NC)
              2017 Ford F-150 5.0L

              Comment


              • #8
                Wow, we just picked up our new 2020 2600RB yesterday...true! We love it so far and will be heading out on a small trip next week. I am impressed by your knowledge and ability to put your project together and grateful for your instruction regarding how you did it. Now I am securely on the horns of a dilemma...should I show my wife your post with all the amazing features and worry that I will be expected to do something similar (I was thinking that I would just tape some blue cellophane over the dinette lights to enhance the dining experience) or should I hide it and have her continue to think I am a wizard for figuring out how to fold the dinette table...sigh. Seriously though, I am impressed and thank you for sharing!
                2019 F150 Lariat (5.0, 3.73 7000 GVWR, Tow)
                2020 2600RB

                Comment


                • #9
                  Excellent work and an excellent post!

                  Jim

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    RickinCalgary I understand your conundrum! LOL One thing I can say is that the dimmer on the wall of the bedroom for the bedroom overhead lights, dimmer in the Convenience Panel for the main cabin overhead lights and the dimmer for the awning have proven to be the most valuable outside of the extra light over the sink and counter and I found those dimmers to be pretty easy to install, especially the dimmers on the Convenience Panel. The Convenience Panel dimmers were basically swapping out an existing component for a matching part. If you checked out the link to the awning dimmer thread in my first post, you can order the dimmer from Amazon and the 3D plate along with all the connectors that work great from Marty Robinson hybris1@yahoo.com. Marty was very easy to work with, easy to pay on PayPal and if I understand correctly another GD Owner. Installing those panel dimmers doesn't require doing any permanent alteration that can't be changed back to factory in a matter of minutes. I used male spade connectors to crimp on the dimmer wires so the existing female connectors didn't have to be changed, just snapped on. I did use some small pieces of shrink tube to electrically isolate all the connectors but electical tape would work as well. The wall dimmer in the bedroom in my case, required a slight increase in the size of the hole in the wall of maybe 3/16", great excuse to buy an oscillating cutting tool, but it is a permanent change and requires a little care. The wiring is very easy especially in your case with the 2600RB. I was able to fish a length of black 14 AWG wire up the wall void from the CO detector, below the bedroom switch, facing into the main cabin to get the reference ground the dimmer needed. The rest was pulling connectors off the original switch and putting them on the new dimmer. Some Black 14AWG wire, wire cutters, wire crimp tool and a matching couple of crimp connectors, all available at Lowes or Home Depot if you don't already have them, and a way to adjust the hole opening a little is all you need.

                    One lesson I learned the hard way in working with the spade connectors on the backside of the Convenience Panel is that all the female connectors used by GD have a small locking spring the locks into the male spades so you have to pop that spring up before trying to pull the connectors apart so you don't pull the connector off the wire. The spring is a great feature to keep the connectors from working lose but it was a "gotcha" I was not expecting the first time.

                    I'd be happy to help you through any of the things I did since I've done it on exactly the same camper. I think howson has also done the upgrade as well and might be willing to offer some insight albeit a different camper but the Convenience Panels are very similar.
                    David & Kari +2 Dogs (Cream & Winston)
                    2020 2600RB (Bill Plemmons in Rural Hall, NC)
                    2017 Ford F-150 5.0L

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      David...You are a good man! Thanks for the explanation and support. We are thinking of bugging out for a few days next week and that will be our maiden voyage and a chance to try out all the baseline lighting. My guess is that the dimmers will be an early upgrade. I REALLY appreciate your advice and will keep you posted. I am going onto Amazon shortly and will check out those dimmer switches. Cheers from Calgary, Canada....it snowed here yesterday. Hope the weather is better for you and yours in NC?
                      2019 F150 Lariat (5.0, 3.73 7000 GVWR, Tow)
                      2020 2600RB

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well done! Such a great write up. Love the upgrades.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Looking at installing a dimmer on the front V lights on our reflection. The existing switch is in the garage mounted in a 3/4" hole. Would this type of switch work?

                          ​​​​​​https://www.amazon.com/Ulincos-Stepl...4&sr=8-16&th=1

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by jh2pizza View Post
                            Looking at installing a dimmer on the front V lights on our reflection. The existing switch is in the garage mounted in a 3/4" hole. Would this type of switch work?

                            ​​​​​​https://www.amazon.com/Ulincos-Stepl...4&sr=8-16&th=1
                            Take a look at this video. It's the mods I made for dimmers in my 2020 Imagine. For the front LED V lights, that part starts at 7:22. Easy to do, took me about 5 minutes to complete. Parts list is included in authors notes.

                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l507C35p_G0
                            2020 F-250 Lariat 2WD SuperCrew 6.7L, Blue Ox SwayPro hitch w/ 1000lb bars
                            2020 Imagine 2600RD w/ Road Armor + wet bolt suspension, Yakima Longhaul Bike Rack, MicroAir EasyStart 364 for AC, Lion Energy 105 amp Lithiium Ion X2
                            Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ
                            FMCA # 489460

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by jh2pizza View Post
                              Looking at installing a dimmer on the front V lights on our reflection. The existing switch is in the garage mounted in a 3/4" hole. Would this type of switch work?

                              ​​​​​​https://www.amazon.com/Ulincos-Stepl...4&sr=8-16&th=1

                              jh2pizza,
                              Running from Gnats did a great video showing both the dimmers in the main cabin and the pass through for the "V" lights and his solution for the "V" light dimmer is excellent, very easy and well tested by many GD owners. The dimmers for the cabin and awning are essentially exactly what I did with the exception that I left the original rocker switch for the cabin lights in place and added the dimmer in an open slot on the panel "down stream" or in series from the rocker switch. That allows me to leave the dimmer level at a set level and just turn the lights on and off with the rocker switch. As far as the "V" light, you could also use the the ATC dimmer switch/slider I used in out bedroom.

                              American Technology Components dimmer switch
                              https://www.atcomp.com/product/ah-sld1-5-hs001/

                              It's essentially the same on/off switch as already in the pass through for the "V" light but with the addition of a slider to the right of the on/off switch to set a dimming level. Two caveats using the ATC switch. 1-You will most likely need to enlarge the hole in the panel just slightly wider, maybe 1/8", to get it to fit. 2-You will need to find a ground to provide a 0 volt reference for the switch to operate correctly. It is likely you could use a screw into the aluminum frame but you would want to test it first before enlarging the switch opening. You also might get lucky and find an actual ground wire near by you could tap into. You would just have to look around to see what would work best for you. I've not added a dimmer to the "V" light yet but it is something I've been thinking about.

                              Marty Robinson hybris1@yahoo.com is the place to get both the replacement snap in plates and large switch adapter plate that Running from Gnats showed. You can find details on what Marty has to offer and prices if you follow the thread in this link, https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...-awning-lights. There is a post by howson in that thread that details what is available from Marty.
                              David & Kari +2 Dogs (Cream & Winston)
                              2020 2600RB (Bill Plemmons in Rural Hall, NC)
                              2017 Ford F-150 5.0L

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