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  • Originally posted by mpking View Post
    bellis Tangent question. Does that cover (to the right of the picture) slide over the control panel, and your new monitor?

    Did you construct that slide? (My 2017 doesn't appear to have it)
    I did not. I think what you are referring to is a deep cabinet by the door. Cabinet (with a door) then the control center, then the TV (entertainment center).
    2020 Imagine 2400BH
    2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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    • Originally posted by bellis View Post

      What issue are you having with yours? Do you have a thread on it?

      I haven't tried, but I do not believe my multiplus will power up on AC power...I think it has to have the 12VDC power. Would be great if it would power up either way....especially if it was in charge mode.
      The Multiplus will turn on with AC power applied to the AC IN and it will pass that AC through the output. Obviously, without a 12v source ("battery") neither the inverter or charger section will function.

      Not quite sure you'd want to power on the Multiplus without a 12v source connected...seems pointless unless the unit was being configured for another user prior to shipment or some other upgrade.

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      • Originally posted by howson View Post
        I'm not sure what's being asked...can you post a picture and clarify?
        The 7 PIN towing electrical harness. Black wire is power to the batteries? Maybe?
        2020 Imagine 2400BH
        2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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        • Originally posted by bellis View Post

          The 7 PIN towing electrical harness. Black wire is power to the batteries? Maybe?
          You're probably getting tired of me repeating myself...but the 7-pin wiring is shown on my master diagram that I've referenced numerous times in this thread. I zoomed in and uploaded an exploded view below.

          Click image for larger version

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          Why do you want to disconnect the black wire? I removed mine (as noted in my diagram) because I have the Renogy hooked up plus solar--the very small charge from the truck was not worth the potential conflict having yet another power source may have injected into my configuration.

          Why do you disconnect yours? Why wouldn't you want the truck's charge sent to your batteries?

          I apologize for all the questions but I'm confused (it's been a long, hot day working outside).

          Howard
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          • Originally posted by bellis View Post

            What issue are you having with yours? Do you have a thread on it?

            I haven't tried, but I do not believe my multiplus will power up on AC power...I think it has to have the 12VDC power. Would be great if it would power up either way....especially if it was in charge mode.
            Yes I think it’s in my thread about the Victron Venus GUI on raspberry pi. I’m on the road with it so haven’t had a chance to update it in a few days. My unit will not detect incoming power even though it is present and verified with my meter. I suspect either the internal transfer switch is defective or more likely the line in connections on the board are bad. It does not switch to charge, and in VictronConnect, it does not show any voltage present. I’m sending it back when I get back home Saturday and buying another one. I got the original from Amazon who isn’t an authorized seller. Victron does not offer any end user support and instructs you to go through your reseller, so my only option was a return. I’ve ordered a replacement from AMSolar.

            We’re boondocking for the next few days, so the only means I have to recharge is by solar and the truck charger. If I need to use the generator then I can only use the factory converter to charge, which even though it’s a far cry from the 120 amps the Victron should put out, is at least something. I’m considering a 120 amp converter to have as a backup to the Victron or to speed charging even more when on the generator, four LiFePo4 batteries could easily take that much charge current.
            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.​

            Neil Citro
            2018 Reflection 28BH Pepwave
            2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

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            • The picture isn’t focused well enough to be sure, but likely no difference. Sometimes panels are designed to restrict the number of breakers that fit, so they may have made some slots only accept 1” breakers.
              John & Kathy
              2014 Reflection 303RLS
              2014 F250 SC SB 6.2

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              • So - left the black wire to charge the batteries for now.

                Per howson 's recommendation - I flipped the self resetting circuit breaker. I simply disconnected the wires, removed it, turned it around and reinstalled it. Now, to my shock...both my power to RV (IE OEM switch that allows power to flow through this wire) and the battery master switch were turned off. When my ratchet hit the frame...I threw sparks. This was also true when I re-installed. I double checked all switches - everything was off. Is there a capacitor or something that holds power that could have caused this? After triple checking the switches I went about tightening it all the way up and sparks did not fly.

                I'm at a loss. I do not have any shorts...

                Furthermore - I question whether flipping this around (reversing it) is good enough. See the attached picture (wires in question on left). On the previous output (now on the brass input) are 2 wires that are crimped together. This is where power is coming from (from the OEM switch, the master distribution block, master battery switch and ultimately the batteries). If one of those wires is camper load, I am guessing it should be on the other side.
                Attached Files
                2020 Imagine 2400BH
                2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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                • bellis -- do you have a picture of the circuit breaker wiring as it came from the factory (OEM setup)?

                  Do you know where each of the wires come from or where they are going to? (To label the wires in the picture.)

                  As stated in post #104, I don't know the technical reasons for why, but the gold side of a self-resetting breaker is the power side and the silver is the load side. There are many references to this configuration with just a cursory google search. I could not, however, determine why. A guess...there's a mechanical construct and due to the way current flows the manufacturer wants current to flow in a specific direction.

                  Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                  2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                  • Originally posted by howson View Post
                    bellis -- do you have a picture of the circuit breaker wiring as it came from the factory (OEM setup)?

                    Do you know where each of the wires come from or where they are going to? (To label the wires in the picture.)

                    As stated in post #104, I don't know the technical reasons for why, but the gold side of a self-resetting breaker is the power side and the silver is the load side. There are many references to this configuration with just a cursory google search. I could not, however, determine why. A guess...there's a mechanical construct and due to the way current flows the manufacturer wants current to flow in a specific direction.
                    Going to have to cut the crimped end off and then it is just a matter of testing each wire to know which ones comes from the batteries (well OEM switch, distribution block, master switch, then batteries). I would then have to re-crimp new ends on both wires and install on the appropriate portion of the self-resetting circuit breaker.

                    I haven't gotten that far in life just yet! I don't have small lugs to re-crimp those connections so I will need to go buy them.
                    2020 Imagine 2400BH
                    2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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                    • Originally posted by bellis View Post

                      Going to have to cut the crimped end off and then it is just a matter of testing each wire to know which ones comes from the batteries (well OEM switch, distribution block, master switch, then batteries). I would then have to re-crimp new ends on both wires and install on the appropriate portion of the self-resetting circuit breaker.

                      I haven't gotten that far in life just yet! I don't have small lugs to re-crimp those connections so I will need to go buy them.
                      I don't suggest cutting the connectors off..just try and trace them visually. A multimeter will tell you which one has power.

                      For those following this thread, if you have a 2400BH (or similar Imagine) and if your wiring to the auto-disconnect is OEM, can you take a picture of how yours is configured? ( Guest -- Jim -- do you have anything? )
                      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                      2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                      • howson Howard,

                        Are you looking for a pic of my original frame mounted breaker or the OEM switch Pic? I have pics of the OEM wiring.

                        Hopefully without interjecting confusion, I connected both leads of my OEM switch to the output side of a new breaker. The input side was connect to the OEM switch. With battery power at the other side of the OEM switch, this resulted in the ability to completely disconnect the battery from the entire coach.
                        Since power is now reversed to the frame mounted beaker, I also reversed the wires that were connected there. The black charge lead from the TV was directly connected to a 20amp Renogy for charging while traveling.
                        So in short (pun) my frame mounted breaker is just acting as a junction block, except for the solar plug which is connected there as an input.

                        Reading quickly through these posts I can offer some advice in chasing down circuits on these rigs. Disconnect one wire at a time and simply determine what has stopped functioning. For connections such as the solar plug, a volt meter can be used to determine if power is present or lost. Don't forget the trailer break away switch which is wired (unprotected) directly to the battery.

                        Attached are two pics of the OEM wiring.

                        I was not concerned about the ID of each circuit since the frame mounted breaker was reversed and power was fed from the other end of the circuit via a new breaker in the passthrough. This way, protection to these circuits were unchanged and in some instances double protected. The OEM battery feed was removed and the heavy black wire (TV Charge) was connected to the Renogy.

                        The break away switch (small black wire at the OEM battery input) is another discussion.


                        Jim
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by Guest; 09-10-2020, 06:55 AM.

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                        • Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
                          Are you looking for a pic of my original frame mounted breaker or the OEM switch Pic?
                          original frame mounted breaker with wires labeled (hopefully!)
                          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                          2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                          • Originally posted by howson View Post

                            original frame mounted breaker with wires labeled (hopefully!)
                            howson Howard,

                            This evening when I'm off work, I'll run down the wires on my frame mounted breaker. There are two of the six that I would need to run down so this should be fairly quick.

                            Jim

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                            • Originally posted by howson View Post

                              original frame mounted breaker with wires labeled (hopefully!)
                              howson Howard,

                              Turns out there was only one wire I needed to run down and I assumed correctly on that one which was the white/pink for the solar feed. Here is the same pick where I've included numbers next to the associated wires. This pic is of the original unmodified wiring on my 2017 Imagine 2600RB.

                              1) Tongue Jack Power - Can barely be seen
                              2) OEM Battery Positive Feed
                              3) Power Feed to break away emergency brake switch
                              4) Solar plug power feed
                              5) Protected breaker output to the battery switch - somewhere connected to this circuit are the wire(s) that power CO, Propane alarms radio and memory functions
                              6) Battery Charging from the tow vehicle

                              Hope this helps.

                              Jim


                              Click image for larger version  Name:	MY17 2600RB Frame Mounted Breaker_ID.jpg.png Views:	0 Size:	1.15 MB ID:	29304
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by Guest; 09-10-2020, 06:12 PM.

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                              • Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
                                5) Protected breaker output to the battery switch - somewhere connected to this circuit are the wire(s) that power CO, Propane alarms radio and memory functions
                                You know. I'm going to challenge you guys on this statement today. I've seen it made several times.

                                I was wiring in my USB power ports today. I had the fuse for the Radio pulled for the better part of 2 hours. It still had all its radio Presets.

                                I just ran out and pulled my shorepower cord, and flipped the kill switch. The Propane alarm went off. (as in all lights went out)

                                And my CO2 and Smoke detectors both needed there batteries replaced this week.They are not hardwired.

                                In conclusion:

                                When kill switch is flipped, on the 2017 Imagine 2800BH, all power to the coach is shut off. I will confirm this when I get a Victron or similar on the battery later this month,

                                Maybe the 5th wheeler's are different.


                                Mike
                                2017 Imagine 2800BH pushing a 2019 Ford F150 Platinum

                                Formerly: 2002 Rockwood Popup
                                Location: Massachusetts

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