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  • #16
    Originally posted by bellis View Post

    Howard: Apologies....I did not realize that this site qualifies as social media. I guess I think of social media as Facebook, Twitter, etc.
    Not a problem. Trust me, if they let us we'd have a library established so everyone could get what they want. Our hosts have said "no" so that's that.
    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

    2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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    • #17
      Howard,

      Is this electrical diagram what we refer to and an electrical plan? For those that were looking for the maker light wire in the Imagine, its the lone green wire in the docking station. In fact all the wiring for front lights and solar charger are in the docking station. I verified what I needed with the current meter. My chargers and the BMV712 work fantastic where I now need to button the entire thing up. Curbside pickup is painful but this it's what I've been doing here.

      Jim

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      • #18
        Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
        Howard,

        Is this electrical diagram what we refer to and an electrical plan? For those that were looking for the maker light wire in the Imagine, its the lone green wire in the docking station. In fact all the wiring for front lights and solar charger are in the docking station. I verified what I needed with the current meter. My chargers and the BMV712 work fantastic where I now need to button the entire thing up. Curbside pickup is painful but this it's what I've been doing here.

        Jim
        Yes, it was the plan. It's all good, the posting of the diagrams wasn't intentionally nefarious.

        Great feeling when you power up the first time and it all works, isn't it? A lot of work, but definitely worth the effort IMHO.
        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

        2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by howson View Post

          Yes, it was the plan. It's all good, the posting of the diagrams wasn't intentionally nefarious.

          Great feeling when you power up the first time and it all works, isn't it? A lot of work, but definitely worth the effort IMHO.
          Howard,

          It is fantastic to see it all working after much thought in how I was going to do this. But there is an unforeseen issue. My darn Schwintek slide is broken. Oddly enough, it worked as expected when I winterized it last fall and the first battery connection this spring, and it was acting up. My confidence in this system is waning.

          GDRV looked at the slide when they replaced the left wall and mentioned it needed a wire repair. I ordered a new style motor and a new harness and will pin out the current harness. If there are other issues related to the slide/wall/install, I will need to get back with GDRV.

          The BMV712 is do darn nice!

          Jim

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post

            Howard,

            It is fantastic to see it all working after much thought in how I was going to do this. But there is an unforeseen issue. My darn Schwintek slide is broken. Oddly enough, it worked as expected when I winterized it last fall and the first battery connection this spring, and it was acting up. My confidence in this system is waning.

            GDRV looked at the slide when they replaced the left wall and mentioned it needed a wire repair. I ordered a new style motor and a new harness and will pin out the current harness. If there are other issues related to the slide/wall/install, I will need to get back with GDRV.

            The BMV712 is do darn nice!

            Jim
            Jim - I've replaced an Schwintek slide motor for another owner in the past. If you get stuck, give a shout out!

            Jim
            Jim and Ginnie
            2024 Solitude 310GK
            GDRV Technical Forum Moderator
            GDRV Rally Support Coordinator

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            • #21
              Originally posted by TucsonJim View Post

              Jim - I've replaced an Schwintek slide motor for another owner in the past. If you get stuck, give a shout out!

              Jim
              Jim,

              Thank you. Fortunately I was able to finesse the slide all the way out with the override function, since rain is in the forecast. Nice too that the motor release screw is now exposed.

              Would you know if these motors are brushless?

              I'm still struggling to understand how it worked at the end of last season and on the first battery connect, it struggled. It also struggled after the wall replacement. I will always have a spare motor in the rig with a spare harness.

              Jim
              Last edited by Guest; 05-27-2020, 07:36 PM.

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              • #22
                So, after many hours of reading, watching, emailing and phone calls here is a quick update. Picking up the unit on the 12th. My plan may have changed to the following:

                1. (3) Battleborn batteries (SKU=BB10012),
                2. (1) Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 VE Bus*,
                3. (1) Cerbo GX*,
                4. (1) GX Touch 50*,
                4. (1) Smartshunt*,
                5. (1) SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 (size could change once I figure out how many solar panels),
                6. (1) Microair Easy Start 364, and
                7. (1) Progressive Industries LCHW30.
                8. I have given up the search for a triple battery mount. Current plan is to build something out of wood or metal or both. I tend to think I could go vertical (as in 1 battery on top of another) in the pass-through with all 3 batteries (pending measurement), but not sure about weight distribution.

                *Due to COVID and there are some brand new products listed above, I am not sure Battleborn will be able to get me a Multiplus-ii, the Cerbo GX, the GX Touch 50, or the Smartshunt for the next 14 weeks (rough ETA). That is a little painful. They do have the Multiplus listed above available, but I know it is on it's way out. While I could possibly live without the cerbo gx and touch 50 for a while, not having the inverter/charger cause installation challenges. Also, not having the smartshunt makes me question whether I should get the BMV712 because it is available. It is not what I want and it is more expensive.

                Originally posted by bellis View Post
                7. Possibly a Surge protector - Progressive Industries HW30C or LCHW30. I sent them an email to ask what the difference is between the 2 units.
                I was worried I was missing something so I contacted Progressive Industries. The difference is that the LCHW30 does not have the mountable screen, it is built in. It also does not have a bypass and it is ~$50 cheaper.

                First installation steps given the above.
                1. Install the EMS. I may put this in passthrough storage as well. Perhaps a small metal electrical box bypassing the charger under the entertainment center and run a new wire back to this location? I reviewed the diagrams that Grand Design sent, but it does not say that is exactly how the wire is run, but until I can look at it in person I will just have to guess as to what I need to run and what size this wire should be.
                2. Install the Microair Easy Start 364.

                Additional challenges:
                Upon pickup/delivery of my unit, I am taking it straight to my farm (about 15 minutes from the house). At the farm I am awaiting a concrete pour and the building of a garage, but the farm will not have power for the next 12 months. As such, I will have to look at the instructions on the Microair Easy Start 364. To finish the install requires power. I am not sure my generator will qualify as shore power for the install (it may not be big enough). I will find out.

                Latest questions howson / Guest / @tmrgn99 or anyone:

                1. It looks like you used copper lugs. Did you vaseline or lube them? Are you in a low humidity environment? Debating Tinned copper lugs or just copper lugs.
                2. Should I use the battery switch in the docking station or only use my own?
                3. I think in my drawing I have left out positive power to the smartshunt?

                Attached is a rough document/plan still working on it. All feedback is welcome and appreciated. Even if it is just to tell me what you did or let me see how someone else views it differently.
                Attached Files
                2020 Imagine 2400BH
                2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

                Our Mods

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                • #23
                  .

                  Latest questions howson / Guest / @tmrgn99 or anyone:

                  1. It looks like you used copper lugs. Did you vaseline or lube them? Are you in a low humidity environment? Debating Tinned copper lugs or just copper lugs.
                  2. Should I use the battery switch in the docking station or only use my own?
                  3. I think in my drawing I have left out positive power to the smartshunt?

                  1) I used what I could get my hands on. I did not use anything in the joint where I crimped to achieve a solid cold weld. Buy a good quality crimping tool for this task. I ended up with copper for my 4AWG cables and Tinned Copper for the 8 AWG. Wire was welding cable for the 4 AWG and Tinned Marine grade copper for the 8 AWG. This is overkill for my current 60 amp load and short runs but its set up to install a small inverter to operate the TV/Antenna/DVD for the future.

                  2) I am using the battery switch in the docking station, where I've replaced this with a marine grade unit and recall its good for 125amps. This switch kills the entire rig where the only draw on the battery is from the Victron monitor.

                  3) I've not had a chance to look over the drawing in detail but I believe the smart shunt would be similar to my Victron BMV712 Smart where the shunt is on the negative side where there are no additional circuits between the shunt and the negative battery post.

                  Jim

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by bellis View Post
                    The difference is that the LCHW30 does not have the mountable screen, it is built in. It also does not have a bypass and it is ~$50 cheaper.
                    The screen (just above the distribution panel, which when the main door is open is at eye level) is one of very first things we look at after connecting power. If it doesn't show "E0", we know there's something wrong and stop setting up until the problem is resolved. I won't stay at a site with bad power.

                    Originally posted by bellis View Post
                    First installation steps given the above.
                    1. Install the EMS. I may put this in passthrough storage as well. Perhaps a small metal electrical box bypassing the charger under the entertainment center and run a new wire back to this location? I reviewed the diagrams that Grand Design sent, but it does not say that is exactly how the wire is run, but until I can look at it in person I will just have to guess as to what I need to run and what size this wire should be.
                    If you can install the EMS near the distribution panel, that (IMO) is a better location. Very little additional wiring needed to tie it in as it will go between the main circuit breakers in the panel and the original wiring.

                    Originally posted by bellis View Post
                    2. Install the Microair Easy Start 364.

                    Additional challenges:
                    Upon pickup/delivery of my unit, I am taking it straight to my farm (about 15 minutes from the house). At the farm I am awaiting a concrete pour and the building of a garage, but the farm will not have power for the next 12 months. As such, I will have to look at the instructions on the Microair Easy Start 364. To finish the install requires power. I am not sure my generator will qualify as shore power for the install (it may not be big enough). I will find out.
                    You might want to install the Easy Start where there's shore power so it "learns" correctly. Moochdock at a neighbor or friends house for an afternoon.

                    Originally posted by bellis View Post
                    Latest questions howson / Guest / @tmrgn99 or anyone:

                    1. It looks like you used copper lugs. Did you vaseline or lube them? Are you in a low humidity environment? Debating Tinned copper lugs or just copper lugs.
                    Copper. No lubrication or anything else.

                    Originally posted by bellis View Post
                    2. Should I use the battery switch in the docking station or only use my own?
                    I dislike the OEM battery disconnect as it is too easy to inadvertently turn it off. For the minimal investment, replace it with a Blue Sea switch while you're doing all this work. I eliminated the entire OEM wiring and switch, recreating the way it worked but with new wires and the aforementioned Blue Sea switch. (It's "Shutoff 2" in my schematic.)[/QUOTE]

                    Originally posted by bellis View Post
                    3. I think in my drawing I have left out positive power to the smartshunt?

                    Attached is a rough document/plan still working on it. All feedback is welcome and appreciated. Even if it is just to tell me what you did or let me see how someone else views it differently.
                    I'll have to give this a look in the morning when I'm not so tired...sorry!

                    Hopefully gbkims will have a few minutes to give it a look, too. He is exceptionally thorough and knowledgeable. (If he makes a recommendation, give it serious consideration.)

                    Howard
                    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                    2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by howson View Post
                      The screen (just above the distribution panel, which when the main door is open is at eye level) is one of very first things we look at after connecting power. If it doesn't show "E0", we know there's something wrong and stop setting up until the problem is resolved. I won't stay at a site with bad power.

                      If you can install the EMS near the distribution panel, that (IMO) is a better location. Very little additional wiring needed to tie it in as it will go between the main circuit breakers in the panel and the original wiring.
                      I will have to look closer when it arrives. I saw that you had done this and was glad to see you reiterate this. I think I could look at the display when setting up in the pass through, but am wondering if that will make wiring more challenging. My layout is different than yours (link for floor plan/360 view), so I think I would have to find a way to run the display wire and drill a hole in the cabinet to mount. The distribution panel/breaker/fuse box on mine is covered in cabinet doors located under the TV on the right as you walk in. It seems like it would be easier to place the EMS there, until trying to figure out what to do with the display. I am guessing that the shore power goes directly to distribution panel and powers all AC items through the breaker box from there, then the DC charger wire goes from that location to the batteries. If I put it in the pass through, I may need to run a wire from there to the pass-through? But, I probably will have to run a couple of wires anyway? Maybe the existing wire would work to power the DC side of things, but I will need an AC power wire from the multiplus to that area and another from that area back to the multiplus for shore power. (I think)? I am not sure what size those wires need to be. On the out side of the EMS, should it be split and one leg run to the breaker box and one to the multiplus or should the EMS go only to the multiplus and all power be routed through the multiplus?

                      Originally posted by howson View Post
                      You might want to install the Easy Start where there's shore power so it "learns" correctly. Moochdock at a neighbor or friends house for an afternoon.
                      That made me think about that harder (thank you)....was considering going to a local campground to do this (or using a generator), but then I remembered my church added 50A and 30A hookups to one of our buildings off the parking lot a few years ago. I may be able to go there for a couple hours and install. Would be awful to plan my first weekend camping at a campground and then the AC not work...

                      Originally posted by howson View Post
                      Copper. No lubrication or anything else.
                      Do you have any corrosion issues?

                      Originally posted by howson View Post
                      I dislike the OEM battery disconnect as it is too easy to inadvertently turn it off. For the minimal investment, replace it with a Blue Sea switch while you're doing all this work. I eliminated the entire OEM wiring and switch, recreating the way it worked but with new wires and the aforementioned Blue Sea switch. (It's "Shutoff 2" in my schematic.)
                      Is the blue sea switch better? It costs 3x as much as the one I had in my tentative plans. I put 2 in my plan (which is still developing) so that I could maybe put a solar charger/controller in there. I uploaded a PDF to the previous post.
                      Blue Sea Switch
                      Battery Switch

                      Thanks again all....really appreciate you weighing in.
                      2020 Imagine 2400BH
                      2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

                      Our Mods

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by bellis View Post
                        1. It looks like you used copper lugs. Did you vaseline or lube them? Are you in a low humidity environment? Debating Tinned copper lugs or just copper lugs
                        Tinned lugs are what I'd use. Good for frame mounted where exposed to water. Sometimes in humid weather, open up passthru and can get a bit of moisture condensation on metal parts.
                        Temco tinned vs bare copper only a few cents more for tinned.
                        https://temcoindustrial.com/shop/acc...ring-terminals.

                        Gene and Kim
                        2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
                        2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by bellis View Post
                          I am guessing that the shore power goes directly to distribution panel and powers all AC items through the breaker box from there, then the DC charger wire goes from that location to the batteries.

                          Your converter is likely mounted very close to the distribution panel so yes, a wire will run from there to the batteries (through the self-resetting circuit breakers). I completely removed the converter in my trailer since the Victron is both an inverter and converter/charger.

                          If I put it in the pass through, I may need to run a wire from there to the pass-through? But, I probably will have to run a couple of wires anyway? Maybe the existing wire would work to power the DC side of things, but I will need an AC power wire from the multiplus to that area and another from that area back to the multiplus for shore power. (I think)? I am not sure what size those wires need to be. On the out side of the EMS, should it be split and one leg run to the breaker box and one to the multiplus or should the EMS go only to the multiplus and all power be routed through the multiplus?

                          Without getting in the weeds in the response, as a general rule if you have a choice keep the 12vDC wires short and save the long runs for the 120vAC lines. The schematic I posted has all the wires sizes I used listed. For your specific application I will defer to AMSolar's guidance.

                          Do you have any corrosion issues?

                          No

                          Is the blue sea switch better?

                          I don't have any experience with the switch you've chosen. AMSolar sold me the Blue Sea, so that's what I installed. They use top-notch equipment and the two I have work perfectly (though they aren't necessarily the easiest to mount).
                          Replies directly in the quote above...

                          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                          2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by bellis View Post
                            Attached is a rough document/plan still working on it.
                            The SmartShunt is wired backwards in v1 of the drawing.

                            This is the correct way (from https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...rtShunt-EN.pdf):

                            Click image for larger version

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                            No opinion on the circuit breaker--AMSolar did not recommend one but they may have changed. Consult Garret and see what he has to say.

                            A "gotcha" that you may not realize is that with the wiring as configured the inverter must be on for AC to pass to the trailer, even when hooked up to shore power. With my configuration I lose 1/2 the trailer when I turn off the Victron for any reason. There may be a way around this (a setting?) but I haven't researched or figured it out yet. The guys on the Facebook page may know.

                            Howard
                            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                            2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              howson Howard. the original battery switch has been re-designed where the previous version did not have a detent in the ON position. So it would inadvertently turn off since it was a ramp design with no end detent. This happened to me when I noticed my rear camera kept turning off while trailering. I have not had a chance to wire this to the marker lights.

                              Jim

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                              • #30
                                Almost finished with my install and am staining the new docking station side panel.

                                Would the moderators know what the amperage rating is for the original frame mounted breaker for the OEM battery connection? I need to match this and install one on the two 8 AWG wires which are now both on one side of the docking station battery switch.

                                Jim

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