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  • #31
    look for this on amazon. Bussmann CBC-50HB Circuit Breaker (Type I Heavy Duty Automotive with Stud Terminals and Bracket - 50 A), 1 Pack

    2020 F-250 Lariat 2WD SuperCrew 6.7L, Blue Ox SwayPro hitch w/ 1000lb bars
    2020 Imagine 2600RD w/ Road Armor + wet bolt suspension, Yakima Longhaul Bike Rack, MicroAir EasyStart 364 for AC, Lion Energy 105 amp Lithiium Ion X2
    Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ
    FMCA # 489460

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Running from Gnats View Post
      look for this on amazon. Bussmann CBC-50HB Circuit Breaker (Type I Heavy Duty Automotive with Stud Terminals and Bracket - 50 A), 1 Pack
      Thank you Running from Gnats .

      Is the original breaker 50A? I'm already protected at the battery with a 80 amp re-settable breaker but wanted to match what GDRV has for the original 8 AWG circuit.

      Jim
      Last edited by Guest; 05-30-2020, 05:22 PM.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
        Almost finished with my install and am staining the new docking station side panel.

        Would the moderators know what the amperage rating is for the original frame mounted breaker for the OEM battery connection? I need to match this and install one on the two 8 AWG wires which are now both on one side of the docking station battery switch.

        Jim
        Jim,
        If you mean the one's I have circled, on my 315RLTS they are all 30A breakers. The one with the "M" was added by MORryde for the disc brake system. It's a 40A breaker.

        Howard

        Click image for larger version

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        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

        2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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        • #34
          Guest

          gbkims (Gene) shows 30A on his schematic, too.

          Click image for larger version

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          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

          2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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          • #35
            Originally posted by howson View Post
            Guest

            gbkims (Gene) shows 30A on his schematic, too.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	Gene.JPG Views:	0 Size:	77.1 KB ID:	20088
            Thank you Howard and Gene,

            I will install the waterproof 30 amp breaker I have in the docking station.

            FYI, the Minwax black translucent stain I used looks like it will be a reasonable match for the new side panel.

            Jim

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            • #36
              My old dwg was approximately how I thought Howard's TT was wired when he started his electrical mod. I see now form other rigs, that the cable from the disconnect usually runs 1st to the AC-DC panel and then back to the WFCO converter.

              The Imagine and Transcend TTs I've seen picts of look to have the 30A CB on the frame.
              This pict is of a 2020 Transcend 31RLS that was missing the battery cables. It's got a nice little 30 label on the CB.
              Click image for larger version

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              Last edited by gbkims; 05-30-2020, 11:20 PM.
              Gene and Kim
              2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
              2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD

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              • #37
                Gene,

                On my Imagine, the battery connected to this breaker (in addition to other wires) and from there the 8 AWG wire terminated at the disconnect. Then on to the WFCO.

                I am reconnecting both these wires in the docking station to a breaker and then to the positive busbar. The main battery feed will connect to one side of the disconnect and the other post will connect to the positive busbar. This will allow for operation of the new PD160ALV to run the rig while on AC and to keep my battery disconnected at a lower SOC for storage.

                Looking at your diagram it looks like my Imagine may have a 50 amp breaker where all the wires on your diagram that attach to both your breakers are connected to a single breaker on my rig (minus stabilizers which I do not have). Since my WFCO was also running on this circuit I'm thinking it may have been 50 amps. I'll call GDRV to verify.

                Jim
                Last edited by Guest; 05-31-2020, 10:30 AM.

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                • #38
                  Install is done except for the breaker install and the battery hold down.

                  Most would not know the converter/charger and DC DC charger are mounted in the newly expanded docking station. Check out where I mounted the BMV712 Smart. Disregard the crooked AC outlet.....not my doing.

                  Jim

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
                    Install is done except for the breaker install and the battery hold down.

                    Most would not know the converter/charger and DC DC charger are mounted in the newly expanded docking station. Check out where I mounted the BMV712 Smart. Disregard the crooked AC outlet.....not my doing.

                    Jim
                    Nice clean install Jim!
                    I'm able to read the embossed description on that frame mounted circuit breaker on my trailer. I'm attaching a picture. That little bugger made me stop and really scratch my head. Isn't it a self resetting circuit breaker? What puzzled me was why the 7 pin charge wire and the converter charge wire were both on the load (silver post) side of it. But this is my first time to do something like this so i'm open to learning something new.
                    Tommy
                    Attached Files
                    Tom and Kathy
                    2017 2600RB
                    2011 Ford F150 ecoboost

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by bellis View Post

                      1. It looks like you used copper lugs. Did you vaseline or lube them? Are you in a low humidity environment? Debating Tinned copper lugs or just copper lugs.
                      2. Should I use the battery switch in the docking station or only use my own?
                      3. I think in my drawing I have left out positive power to the smartshunt?

                      Attached is a rough document/plan still working on it. All feedback is welcome and appreciated. Even if it is just to tell me what you did or let me see how someone else views it differently.
                      Hi Bellis, congratulations on your new travel trailer!
                      I'm not expert here, but I like DIY projects and this is my first time to do something like this. But I'm glad to help you if I can. To answer your questions:
                      1) I used tinned. They did not cost much more. No lube just the crimped joint. I bought the Tempco crimper TH0012 (Howard's tip) and it worked well for me. I also bought my cable, terminal ends and heat shrink from Tempco. At first thru Amazon, then after Fedex lost my order I ordered off their website for the same price and free ground USPS shipping.

                      2) I spent the extra for the Blue Sea switches . They look like good quality to me, but I've had no prior experience with them.

                      3) I bought the BMV 712 but I guess it's just a matter of personal preference. You might rather use your phone exclusively.

                      I installed my EMS HW30C behind the breaker panel and there was room for it there. My breaker panel is at the floor level at the bottom of the entertainment center cabinets. I like having it's display and it is at eye level to my right as I enter the door. Another thing about that EMS remote is that it has a bypass switch that might be useful.
                      Tommy
                      Tom and Kathy
                      2017 2600RB
                      2011 Ford F150 ecoboost

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
                        Install is done except for the breaker install and the battery hold down.

                        Most would not know the converter/charger and DC DC charger are mounted in the newly expanded docking station. Check out where I mounted the BMV712 Smart. Disregard the crooked AC outlet.....not my doing.

                        Jim
                        Beautiful install Jim. I may have to steal your idea of expanding the docking station. Looks great.
                        2020 Imagine 2400BH
                        2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

                        Our Mods

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by tmrgn99 View Post

                          Nice clean install Jim!
                          I'm able to read the embossed description on that frame mounted circuit breaker on my trailer. I'm attaching a picture. That little bugger made me stop and really scratch my head. Isn't it a self resetting circuit breaker? What puzzled me was why the 7 pin charge wire and the converter charge wire were both on the load (silver post) side of it. But this is my first time to do something like this so I'm open to learning something new.
                          Tommy
                          Tom,

                          I had seen this same connection on my rig. This is a resettable breaker where their intention is to fuse these circuits at their source. The 7 pin is fused at the front of the truck (now directly to DC DC) and the WFCO 12V side (now inactive at AC breaker) should be fused at the distribution panel. The frame mounted breaker is there to protect in the other direction from the RV battery when its in use. What also puzzled me are the two other wires that were connected to the battery side of this breaker which means they must be fused elsewhere. I believe these two circuits are for the solar port and the emergency brake pin. I've left this breaker in place where its now primarily used as a junction block since I am now back feeding this circuit from the positive busbar (with new breaker) in the docking station. Thank you for the confirmation on the breaker size.

                          One item of importance: With this design, the battery switch must be on while trailering to feed the emergency brake break away switch.

                          What also puzzles me is how the 55 amp WFCO converter was supposed to function through the frame mounted 30 amp resettable breaker even though its on the load side.

                          I should also add I've never seem more than 10 amps from the WFCO while charging my old lead acid battery where the 25ft of 8 AWG wire was inadequate for efficient charging IMO. This was the main reason for locating the lithium battery and chargers in the docking station on 4AWG welding cable.

                          Also you will see the AC plug hanging from above the docking station where this is the plug for the converter charger which is designed to run from a GFCI outlet. This allows me the flexibility to power this unit from the outlet on the front of the docking station. Should the lithium battery fail far from home, I can simply unplug this charger, install a deep cycle battery and turn on the original WFCO converter charger.

                          Jim
                          Last edited by Guest; 06-01-2020, 12:46 PM.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post

                            Thank you Running from Gnats .

                            Is the original breaker 50A? I'm already protected at the battery with a 80 amp re-settable breaker but wanted to match what GDRV has for the original 8 AWG circuit.

                            Jim
                            That should be a match. The converter output on my 2600 is 55 amp max and I've never had an issue.
                            2020 F-250 Lariat 2WD SuperCrew 6.7L, Blue Ox SwayPro hitch w/ 1000lb bars
                            2020 Imagine 2600RD w/ Road Armor + wet bolt suspension, Yakima Longhaul Bike Rack, MicroAir EasyStart 364 for AC, Lion Energy 105 amp Lithiium Ion X2
                            Amateur Radio Call N9XGZ
                            FMCA # 489460

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Running from Gnats this is a head scratcher where GDRV just confirmed the frame mounted breaker is a 30 amp unit where this also correlates to Tom's pic of his breaker. Now for the electrical guys out there. How is the WFCO supposed to be able to pass 55 amps to the battery through the load side of the breaker to charge the original lead acid battery?

                              The simple answer is it doesn't. But it would be nice to understand if this is a combination of wire size and length and what the lead acid battery will accept?

                              I believe this affirms that it would be a bad idea to replace the original battery with a lithium and use the existing wiring and WFCO to charge it.

                              Jim
                              Last edited by Guest; 06-01-2020, 03:21 PM.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
                                Running from Gnats this is a head scratcher where GDRV just confirmed the frame mounted breaker is a 30 amp unit where this also correlates to Tom's pic of his breaker. Now for the electrical guys out there. How is the WFCO supposed to be able to pass 55 amps to the battery through the load side of the breaker to charge the original lead acid battery?

                                The simple answer is it doesn't. But it would be nice to understand if this is a combination of wire size and length and what the lead acid battery will accept?

                                I believe this affirms that it would be a bad idea to replace the original battery with a lithium and use the existing wiring and WFCO to charge it.

                                Jim
                                On possibility--the WFCO's job is to do more than "just" charge the battery. It also powers the 12v systems in the trailer (slides, furnace, etc) when shore power is connected. 55 amps is the highest it will output under ideal conditions to the entire trailer to the distribution panel.

                                Besides, it's it better to charge a wet-cell slowly? (I'm not a battery expert, but that's what I think I know. A lithium, in contrast, is happy to take [almost] every amp you can throw at it.)

                                Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                                2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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