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  • Originally posted by mpking View Post

    You know. I'm going to challenge you guys on this statement today. I've seen it made several times.

    I was wiring in my USB power ports today. I had the fuse for the Radio pulled for the better part of 2 hours. It still had all its radio Presets.

    I just ran out and pulled my shorepower cord, and flipped the kill switch. The Propane alarm went off. (as in all lights went out)

    And my CO2 and Smoke detectors both needed there batteries replaced this week.They are not hardwired.

    In conclusion:

    When kill switch is flipped, on the 2017 Imagine 2800BH, all power to the coach is shut off. I will confirm this when I get a Victron or similar on the battery later this month,

    Maybe the 5th wheeler's are different.

    mpking I originally made this assumption as well when I purchased my Imagine but I was incorrect. The radio presets were erased each time I disconnected the AC and the battery switch but the CO alarm was on at all times. Look at the CO alarm for the green light that is illuminated when power is fed to this device. While each rig may be wired differently its best to sort out the wires where it may indeed be true that your killing all power to the rig via the battery switch.
    I could have traced this junction down where I had performed a rough check on the protected battery feed from the breaker which ran across the rig just behind the passthrough and to the switch. See pic.

    Correction: Propane alarm at the floor.

    Jim
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Guest; 09-11-2020, 06:01 AM.

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    • Originally posted by MidwestCamper View Post
      Look at the CO alarm for the green light that is illuminated when power is fed to this device. While each rig may be wired differently ...
      That's what I meant by the Propane alarm. It is the unit with the constant green light, mounted on the wall by the bathroom door. My CO (Carbon Monoxide alarm) appears to be a battery operated unit. It's not hardwired.

      When I pull shorepower, and kill the battery switch, the light on the Propane detector goes out. I'd post a photo, but it'd be pitch black now.

      I think the summary is, each rig, even in the same model line, might be wired differently. We've seen enough variance to prove that out.
      Mike
      2017 Imagine 2800BH pushing a 2019 Ford F150 Platinum

      Formerly: 2002 Rockwood Popup
      Location: Massachusetts

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      • So - let me back up and if nothing else for my own benefit (thinking out loud) describe what I have done as it is relevant to the self-resetting circuit breaker.

        1. I did not install my batteries on the tongue and I did not use that wire (it's still hanging there and visibly traceable).
        2. My batteries are in the pass through, flow through a distribution block, then a fuse, then the master switch, then another distribution block.
        3. The above final distribution block has the multiplus, solar charge controller, cerbo, AND I removed a wire from the OEM switch and wired it directly to the distribution block. This is the feed that goes to the self resetting circuit breaker.
        4. I then wired the distribution block to the OEM switch and the other side is the rest of the camper's 12V.
        5. The wire that is going to the self resetting circuit breaker (now flipped to the brass side) is a dual wire, both crimped to one lug.
        6. Everything else on the self-resetting circuit breaker is pretty easy to visually trace at least to the next step (a couple of small black wires are going to the box just above where the 7 pin wire comes in).

        When I flip my OEM switch off all lights, the slide, the radio?, the fridge (DC/propane part), carbon monoxide detector(?), sky fans, USB ports(?), all are out. When the master battery switch is on....the tongue jack, trailer brake, tongue light and old battery wires on the tongue are all live.

        Is the other wire possibly the solar? I haven't torn that panel off to get to the port on the side for solar wiring.

        I'm still wrapping my head around the sparks though....flipping the self-resetting circuit breaker has made no (As of yet) noticeable change in function. Hopefully it is providing protection (but it would only be protecting my unused battery cable, the tongue jack, the tongue jack light, and the trailer brake.

        Should I have everything running through that self-resetting circuit breaker before the rest of the trailer? I'm not now....everything works.
        2020 Imagine 2400BH
        2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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        • bellis ,

          It looks like your rig is wired different than mine. For the solar port I checked this by installing a volt meter into the terminals and while disconnecting the white/pink wire from the frame mounted breaker, I witnessed the voltage drop. This wire was connected to the battery feed side where there may be a fuse behind the plug? Another forum member was looking for this and I do not think he found a dedicated fuse. So it may be best to install a fuse at the solar panel if using the solar plug. My tongue jack was/is connected to the frame mounted breaker but it was on the battery side with its own in-line fuse. On my OEM wiring, the frame mounted breaker was protecting the entire rig while on battery power through wire #5 on my pic.
          I realized I had a very small draw on the OEM battery when I purchased a clamp on current meter and checked the main battery feed with the switch open.

          Jim

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          • Originally posted by bellis View Post
            I did not install my batteries on the tongue and I did not use that wire (it's still hanging there and visibly traceable).
            I don't want to make any assumptions, so the first statement means the original battery wire is not connected where the battery was (at one end) and also not connected to the circuit breaker (at the other end). The OEM provided battery wire is not connected to anything at either end.

            Is that right?

            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

            2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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            • Originally posted by howson View Post

              I don't want to make any assumptions, so the first statement means the original battery wire is not connected where the battery was (at one end) and also not connected to the circuit breaker (at the other end). The OEM provided battery wire is not connected to anything at either end.

              Is that right?
              Eh - let me clarify....clarity matters so thanks for asking.

              Original factory battery wire is taped up on the tongue. No battery and nothing connected on this end. The other side is connected to the self-resetting circuit breaker (now flipped). I could just remove the wire. It's not doing anything; but I don't exactly need the wire either....never know if it may come in handy when out.

              So it is connected to the self resetting circuit breaker on the frame. But it doesn't need to be.
              2020 Imagine 2400BH
              2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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              • bellis

                I have to "see" things in order for them to make sense to me, so I've attempted to convert the verbiage from post 124 and Guest's very helpful pictures (thanks, Jim!) into one combined image. Below is that attempt (it is very basic).


                Click image for larger version  Name:	Bellis.JPG Views:	0 Size:	144.4 KB ID:	29469

                As noted by Jim, there is definitely a difference in the wiring to the circuit breaker (yours on the left, Jim's on the right). There's a second red wire on the silver terminal where on Jim's there's only one (plus the black wire, which is the emergency brake switch). We can not assume the wires serve the same purpose on both campers, so please verify by tracing each wire or a method that proves what it does.

                The issue not discussed (yet) is how the negative side of the battery is configured. (The diagram is only showing the positive side of the 12v system.)

                Is any of this helpful or too much?

                Howard
                Last edited by howson; 09-11-2020, 03:37 PM.
                Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                • See labeled pic.

                  EDIT = wow you posted fast....taking a look.
                  Attached Files
                  2020 Imagine 2400BH
                  2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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                  • Originally posted by howson View Post
                    bellis

                    I have to "see" things in order for them to make sense to me, so I've attempted to convert the verbiage from post 124 and Guest's very helpful pictures (thanks, Jim!) into one combined image. Below is that attempt (it is very basic).


                    Click image for larger version Name:	Bellis.JPG Views:	0 Size:	144.4 KB ID:	29469

                    As noted by Jim, there is definitely a difference between the two wiring to the circuit breaker (yours on the left, Jim's on the right). There's a second red wire on the silver terminal where on Jim's there's only one (plus the black wire, which is the emergency brake switch). We can not assume the wires serve the same purpose on both campers, so please verify by tracing each wire or a method that proves what it does.

                    The issue not discussed (yet) is how the negative side of the battery is configured. (The diagram is only showing the positive side of the 12v system.)

                    Is any of this helpful or too much?

                    Howard
                    No very helpful - so let me elaborate on the screenshot I just posted above. The 2 red wires on the right (I flipped the self resetting circuit breaker so that is no longer the hot side) go to factory (not in use) battery spot on the tongue AND the brake/jack/jack light. Easy to trace.

                    There is a black wire on each side that goes into the box that has the 7 PIN connections from the truck. One should be to charge the batteries from the truck. Not sure what the other is for...haven't wrapped my head around that one.

                    The red wire coming in on the left is 2 wires that are combined into a single lug. This has me thrown for a loop because up where the Factory battery switch is....I am pretty sure this is one cable. Granted there used to be a single cable on both sides of the switch; but each cable is only 1 cable.

                    In terms of the negative side.....I am visual too so it may help me to dig through my diagrams and pics. But, here is a quick run down.

                    Batteries -> Distribution Block -> Smart Shunt -> Distribution block -> Multiple items (Ground to frame, Multiplus ground to ground terminal on frame as well, Multiplus negative terminal, cerbo GX, and MPPT, I think that is it)
                    2020 Imagine 2400BH
                    2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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                    • Originally posted by bellis View Post
                      There is a black wire on each side that goes into the box that has the 7 PIN connections from the truck. One should be to charge the batteries from the truck. Not sure what the other is for...haven't wrapped my head around that one.
                      The other small black wire may connect to the Brakes wire in the junction box as part of the Breakaway Switch circuit.
                      This is how my 5er's junction box is wired. It'll be a little different for a TT.
                      Trailer 7-Way Junction Box & Plug 2020-09-08.pdf

                      Gene and Kim
                      2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
                      2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD

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                      • I agree with Gene above, the small black wire that goes into the 7 pin junction box should travel to the emergency break away switch on the trailer tongue.

                        The 2 red wires on the left , one will go to the battery switch the other will go to power distribution panel that will provide battery power for certain items inside , propane detector for one , these items will always have power not matter the position of the battery switch.

                        Brian
                        Brian & Michelle
                        2018 Reflection 29RS
                        2022 Chevy 3500HD

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                        • Guys,

                          It looks like the two red wires on the left (copper side) would be the battery positive input and the feed for the tongue jack.
                          The black wire on the left (copper side) is the break away brake switch
                          The wires on the right (silver side) are the TV charge wire and another positive output side of the breaker that I do not have. It should be easy to disconnect this wire to see what functions are eliminated.

                          If done correctly, the battery positive feed should be as close to the battery as possible and why I'm thinking the copper side is directly from the battery.

                          Or is this picture AFTER the breaker reversal?

                          Jim
                          Last edited by Guest; 09-12-2020, 08:02 PM.

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                          • It has been too long since I updated this thread. My apologies to all of you who are following!

                            Cerbo GX + Touch 50

                            Troubles with Touch 50 screen. Touch was not working properly, resolution was way off and not usable.
                            I removed the HDMI wire from the Cerbo to the GX Touch 50 (I had 2 female to female adapters, a good long cord....that ended up not long enough...then a shorter cord. I only did this because I ordered a good braided cable and the female to female adapter thinking it would cover it. I ran a few feet short. I ended up ordering a longer, heavy, braided HDMI cable that was female on one end for the GX Touch 50 and male on the other for the Cerbo GX. I think I ordered a 20' previously thinking it would be enough with the slack from the Touch 50 HDMI cable. I left the 2 braided USB cables as is for power.

                            Good HDMI cable:
                            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                            The Touch 50 is now working properly near the door of the camper while the Cerbo GX is in the far side of the pass through storage by electrical/water center.

                            Solar Panels
                            One of the reasons for the delay, it took a lot of effort to get someone who could help on the solar side. I was trying to hold out for residential panels, but they just won't fit. I have since ordered solar panels, combiner box, additional cable to run from combiner box to solar charge controller, PV cable, large struts to mount hardware on, adjustable mounting hardware, sealant and more. This is not installed....and I hope to put together a post on it soon.....if nothing else to outline what I have....install will hopefully begin soon.

                            Another big challenge is trying to figure out where to best run the wire from the combiner box down into the camper and ultimately the pass through. I may look at the wall between the bedroom and the kitchen. Advice would be very much appreciated here.
                            2020 Imagine 2400BH
                            2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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                            • Originally posted by bellis View Post
                              It has been too long since I updated this thread. My apologies to all of you who are following!
                              Another big challenge is trying to figure out where to best run the wire from the combiner box down into the camper and ultimately the pass through. I may look at the wall between the bedroom and the kitchen. Advice would be very much appreciated here.
                              Look to see if there is a vent stack for the kitchen sink that goes to the roof. Maybe not as the might have used an air admittance valve there. Anyway on my unit the dealer ran my wires beside the vent stack and down. When I add my additional panels I plan to use the same route. Probably not much help for you.

                              I also saw an install somewhere where someone came down behind the front cap and into the pass through. The penetration box looked to be about 6" back from the cap seam and they went forward through the truss to the cap. He had pulled the front wall in the pass through to get access to the cap area before doing this and pulled the trim ring on the vent above the bed to see if he could go forward.

                              Hope this helps
                              Keith

                              2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

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                              • Originally posted by Yoda View Post

                                Look to see if there is a vent stack for the kitchen sink that goes to the roof. Maybe not as the might have used an air admittance valve there. Anyway on my unit the dealer ran my wires beside the vent stack and down. When I add my additional panels I plan to use the same route. Probably not much help for you.

                                I also saw an install somewhere where someone came down behind the front cap and into the pass through. The penetration box looked to be about 6" back from the cap seam and they went forward through the truss to the cap. He had pulled the front wall in the pass through to get access to the cap area before doing this and pulled the trim ring on the vent above the bed to see if he could go forward.

                                Hope this helps
                                Keith
                                That does help. Will look for the vent...the kitchen sink is right there.

                                I had also thought about trying to fish through the front cap. I know it is insulated, assume I would have to drill down just behind the front cap. I plan on removing the wall in the pass through towards the front cap anyway to re-wire the solar input on the side. I do not plan on using it, but I would like to wire that in and eliminate the wiring it has now (if nothing else take a look). While I have no intent to use it now, would like to do it as part of the project in case we want to add a portable panel and additional solar charge controller.

                                Do you have a picture of your roof where the vent stack and combiner box are?

                                Thanks for the advice!
                                2020 Imagine 2400BH
                                2017 Ford F350 Platinum FX4/4x4 SuperCrew 6.7L V8 Diesel 9' Bed SRW, Leveled + Airbags

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