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As documented numerous times by multiple individuals--what a rat's nest above the coroplast.
One very obvious item was the nearly 10' of extra speaker wire for each of the 4 outputs. In addition I found two of the outputs had crossed wires at the junction under the kitchen slide. This is not "dangerous"--what it does it put the audio "out-of-phase". (I'm not an audiophile but there's a lot of related information on the internet if you're curious.)
Below is a shot dramatically showing all the extra wire. (I had pulled it all to the back. While bad it wasn't quite as bad looking when I first pulled down the coroplast!)
Sorry 'bout the ugly fingers in the pics!
I cut out all of the OEM connectors, shortened the speaker wires to a reasonable, manageable length and then re-connected them using quality heat shrink butt splices.
I'd like it to look better, but it's now much less prone to chafe or catch on the slideouts. I was tempted to shorten the AC lines, too, but after close inspection of the Molex connectors (they all looked perfect) I decided to leave well enough alone. That's why there's such a long loop of wire tied up in the back. There's a LOT of extra 120vAC wire (the soft black line that goes out to the slide).
I could document for multiple paragraphs all the stuff I had to do, but I'll just write that in the end I decided to only tackle those items where there was a possibility of the wire getting caught in the slide mechanism or may chafe over time. From the front of the camper (literally--I disconnected the 7-pin harness and re-ran the wires from the BACK of the camper forward!) to the rear I zip tied, added split loom coil (which I secured together with gorilla tape). Wish I could have used heat shrink to make the loom look better but that was not possible.
An item I'd like to highlight: the two through-frame slide motor electrical connections. I don't have a "before" shot but the motors are connected to power and ground with wire nuts. On the dining slide the wires were loose. In both cases the amount of bare wire secured by the nut was quite small. I replaced the nuts with quality heat-shrink butt splices and then put an extra layer of heat shrink on top. Then I secured the wires so there's very little chance they will get caught in the mechanism.
If you have to drop the coroplast in the rear for any reason and you have electrical, through-frame slide(s), give those wire nuts a close look.
Howard
One very obvious item was the nearly 10' of extra speaker wire for each of the 4 outputs. In addition I found two of the outputs had crossed wires at the junction under the kitchen slide. This is not "dangerous"--what it does it put the audio "out-of-phase". (I'm not an audiophile but there's a lot of related information on the internet if you're curious.)
Below is a shot dramatically showing all the extra wire. (I had pulled it all to the back. While bad it wasn't quite as bad looking when I first pulled down the coroplast!)
Sorry 'bout the ugly fingers in the pics!
I cut out all of the OEM connectors, shortened the speaker wires to a reasonable, manageable length and then re-connected them using quality heat shrink butt splices.
I'd like it to look better, but it's now much less prone to chafe or catch on the slideouts. I was tempted to shorten the AC lines, too, but after close inspection of the Molex connectors (they all looked perfect) I decided to leave well enough alone. That's why there's such a long loop of wire tied up in the back. There's a LOT of extra 120vAC wire (the soft black line that goes out to the slide).
I could document for multiple paragraphs all the stuff I had to do, but I'll just write that in the end I decided to only tackle those items where there was a possibility of the wire getting caught in the slide mechanism or may chafe over time. From the front of the camper (literally--I disconnected the 7-pin harness and re-ran the wires from the BACK of the camper forward!) to the rear I zip tied, added split loom coil (which I secured together with gorilla tape). Wish I could have used heat shrink to make the loom look better but that was not possible.
An item I'd like to highlight: the two through-frame slide motor electrical connections. I don't have a "before" shot but the motors are connected to power and ground with wire nuts. On the dining slide the wires were loose. In both cases the amount of bare wire secured by the nut was quite small. I replaced the nuts with quality heat-shrink butt splices and then put an extra layer of heat shrink on top. Then I secured the wires so there's very little chance they will get caught in the mechanism.
If you have to drop the coroplast in the rear for any reason and you have electrical, through-frame slide(s), give those wire nuts a close look.
Howard
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