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OEM 12V Wiring

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  • OEM 12V Wiring

    bellis and Gakster are two members that have recently asked about the OEM 12V wiring. The diagram below is an attempt to show how my 2019 315RLTS was configured by the factory not how it currently is configured.

    --break--

    UPDATE: See post 2 as I think I answered my own question!

    gbkims (Gene) or anyone else that cares to chime in:

    There's one part of the wiring (to be completely transparent) that I do not understand. Why is the red and white wire to the Schwintek (bedroom slide) controller on the load (output) of the 30A circuit breaker (#3 in the diagram)? Why not just on a post with the black wire going to the Power Distribution Panel? A second 30A circuit breaker in a series circuit doesn't add any protection--right? Seems redundant and unnecessary to me...

    Howard

    Click image for larger version  Name:	12V Circuit OEM using Symbols (Large).jpg Views:	4 Size:	70.0 KB ID:	22930
    Last edited by howson; 06-29-2020, 10:18 AM.
    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

    Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

  • #2
    Originally posted by howson View Post
    Why is the red and white wire to the Schwintek (bedroom slide) controller on the load (output) of the 30A circuit breaker (#3 in the diagram)? Why not just on a post with the black wire going to the Power Distribution Panel?
    gbkims -- I think I just figured it out--after posting, of course.

    The OEM Shutoff can be disconnected (no power from the battery) but with the shore power cord plugged in and the WFCO Converter powered, 12V will come from the Power Distribution Panel to the Schwintek Bedroom Slide Controller. That second circuit breaker is there to protect that circuit.

    Now why couldn't I figure that out before posting the question? <sigh>
    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

    Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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    • #3
      Howard. On my second breaker, they simply used it as a terminal block. They only connected the shut-off switch wires to one side of the breaker.

      Click image for larger version

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      The moderators for this site are not GDRV employees, but we do own GDRV products.

      Jim and Ginnie
      2017 Reflection 297RSTS

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TucsonJim View Post
        Howard. On my second breaker, they simply used it as a terminal block. They only connected the shut-off switch wires to one side of the breaker.
        I *think* that's because the 297RSTS doesn't have a Schwintek bedroom slide.
        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

        Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

        Comment


        • #5
          Here's my system as it is currently configured today. It never ceases to amaze me how when viewed from a different perspective I can "see" something I didn't notice before.

          Click image for larger version

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          There are few issues that jump out at me:

          1) I do not know (and can't explain) why I have CB1 and CB2 in series. This appears redundant and unnecessary. I only need one 30A breaker (either CB1 or CB2), not both. Any thoughts/opinions/comments?

          2) I have no idea where that third blue and white wire materialized from that is attached to the load side of CB2. The wire was not there when I did my inverter project (picture in post 1 is a "before" shot) but mysteriously the wire appeared at some point. All I know is it is not connected to anything. It was Cate&Rob in another thread that mentioned this wire was likely for the OEM brakes. During the recent work I did under the coroplast, I did find a red wire pair that was severed near the suspension that ran forward and was also severed (not connected to anything) just before where the coroplast starts. I removed it.

          3) MidwestCamper 's concern regarding the unprotected emergency brake actuator line also jumps out at me. What confuses me is when I looked at the OEM's installation instructions, they do not show any protection on the wire going to the switch, either. https://www.tekonsha.com/support/ins...on/N2010-P.pdf

          Jim--your thoughts?

          Click image for larger version

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          Howard
          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

          Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by howson View Post

            1) I do not know (and can't explain) why I have CB1 and CB2 in series. This appears redundant and unnecessary. I only need one 30A breaker (either CB1 or CB2), not both. Any thoughts/opinions/comments?

            Howard
            So which of the Red & Black wires went straight to the OEM battery?
            Click image for larger version

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            Gene and Kim
            2015 Grand Design Reflection 317RST
            2017 RAM 3500 CC, LB, 4x2, 6.7L CTD

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            • #7
              howson
              Hi Howard,

              There are two power feeds to the hydraulic brake actuator. One from the truck battery through terminal 4 of the umbilical cord and one from the trailer battery. The terminal 4 power is modulated by the signal from umbilical terminal 2 but terminal 2 does not provide the 20+ amps required to power up the hydraulic pump. The power from the trailer battery is controlled through the break-away switch and is not modulated.

              Power from the trailer battery typically has no fuse or circuit breaker . . . their logic being that this circuit is only powered up in an emergency. I argued (in a previous thread) that there are lots of opportunities (some of them malicious) for the break-away circuit to be energized for an extended length of time and an auto reset CB should be there in case of this. I added a CB to this circuit in my installation.

              Did the extra wires "appear" when MORryde installed your EoH brake system?

              Rob
              Cate & Rob
              (with Border Collies Molly & Angel and their kitty Gracie)
              2015 Reflection 303RLS
              2014 Ecoboost F150 with Heavy Duty Payload Package
              Whitby, Ontario, Canada

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by gbkims View Post

                So which of the Red & Black wires went straight to the OEM battery?
                Click image for larger version

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                That's a "before" picture, exactly like the one in post 1 of this thread, Gene. Far right, bottom red wire went to the battery (power side of the breaker). The top (load side) went to the OEM cutoff input. The output of the OEM cutoff is the large black wire, bottom left (power side of the breaker). The black wire on the same post (going to the left, or pointing to 9 o'clock) is the Power Distribution Panel connection.

                I've rewired this area as what I showed in post 5 convinced me it wasn't right. After some thought I changed it. I've have the new update posted shortly.
                Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                Comment


                • #9
                  Reconfiguring this area was not on the agenda today, but once I got started I couldn't stop. I (hope) some of this is helpful to the individuals currently trying to figure out their OEM wiring and how to incorporate it into their inverter project. Note that the OEM wiring configuration is for an (early) 2019 315RLTS. Yours probably is different.

                  Below is how I reconfigured the wiring. I've put the original OEM and current configuration side-by-side so it is (hopefully) easy to see how the current version mimics the OEM setup.

                  I also added the WFCO Converter to the OEM wiring based on the earlier posts (so it is clear why that third CB is in the OEM wiring for my 315RLTS).

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	12v DC Wiring Diagram v4 with OEM for comparison.jpg Views:	0 Size:	161.0 KB ID:	22975

                  Here is just the latest version (larger so easier to see?).

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	12V Circuit Configuration using Symbols v4 (Large).jpg Views:	0 Size:	76.9 KB ID:	22976

                  Howard
                  Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                  Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
                    howsonDid the extra wires "appear" when MORryde installed your EoH brake system?
                    Yes! I found a picture I took of the wiring before I left the MORryde facility and that "extra" wire is there! What's really strange is they didn't connect the wire to anything. The wire was "live" and tucked inside the wire bundles. Until today I hadn't looked at my earlier pictures (from the inverter project) and these side-by-side to notice the difference.

                    Crazy.

                    To anyone who may see this--it is a very good idea to take a LOT of pictures before and after you or anyone else works on your trailer.

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                    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                    Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      howson Howard,

                      Just got back where we motored out to Middle Bass island on lake Erie and spend the day there so I'm just catching up.

                      The document you posted looks like a standard break away switch circuit. With a Curt or other brand of stand alone charger, battery and switch, it would be acceptable to power the charger through a breaker since this would only power the charger and the brake side of the switch would still be unprotected since it looks like the industry favors this approach. I think a stand alone system answers all the problems in moving the battery away from its original location. For the double breaker situation, I do not see a need to do this.

                      Jim
                      Last edited by MidwestCamper; 06-29-2020, 08:25 PM.
                      2017 Imagine 2600RB
                      2015 GMC Sierra 4x4

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        howson Enough already!! I'm going to have to drop my coloroplast for my septic modification and if you keep this up, I may never get it back up.
                        Jerry and Kelly Powell, with Halo, Nash, and Reid
                        Pilot (Zebulon), NC
                        2020 Solitude 390RK-R

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          In the interest of just wanting to hurry up and see what would happen when I mimicked my new battery bank integrated, I unhooked the old battery positive with a cable from my positive bus bar and I unhooked my old battery negative to chassis ground and ran another chassis ground from my load side of shunt to a closer location to my battery bank.

                          Will that work temporarily till I digest this new thread? That's what prompted my other thread was wondering what everyone did with that whole mess when hooking up from basement.

                          I was just all excited after finally pulling the trigger and testing my inverter, solar and battery monitor. Wanted to see the changes live when I flipped on lights and other dc devices.

                          Attached is pic underneath and pic of my temp setup

                          Thanks guys. I love reading all of you that leave detailed posts with pics and links. I am one of those people that isn't satisfied knowing just how to hook it up, I want to know why you do it so I can grasp the whole concept.

                          2018 grand design imagine 2600rb. Putting a small solar setup together and hope to add more batteries and panels in future.
                          Going to put in 200 watts on roof and possibly use the furrion port for portable panel. I have (2) 6v agm 225a batteries. 3000w inverter (not charger) I have a WFCO WF-8955 power center. Goal is to wire into panel so I can use any outlet. I have a standalone ATS. I also have BMV 712 battery monitor.

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                          • #14
                            howson Where is today's update?? Now I'm taking almost a week off from work so I can try to get caught up on everything. I'll just have to see how badly it scares me when I drop the bottom.
                            Jerry and Kelly Powell, with Halo, Nash, and Reid
                            Pilot (Zebulon), NC
                            2020 Solitude 390RK-R

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ThePowells View Post
                              howson Where is today's update?? Now I'm taking almost a week off from work so I can try to get caught up on everything. I'll just have to see how badly it scares me when I drop the bottom.
                              I'm done! I took the camper on a 120 test tow (to the CAT scale, of course) and nothing fell off, flapped in the wind, etc. Even used the potty and all the plumbing worked. Super pleased with how everything (from the wiring fix in this thread to all the other updates documented elsewhere as part of the "Down Under Project") turned out.

                              Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                              Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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