Surge Protector

[Capt Bob]

I was just looking were to hardwire mine in as well. I removed the power panel, but access was NOT that good...its a wiring mess. I was looking at removing the outside power plug and making the wiring connections there and feeding the wires forward to the area under the sink. Was there enough slack in the existing wiring to the plug, to make the necessary connections?

Well in my 22MLE there was enough room to mount the PWD-30EP0 under the sink. I removed the power outlet connection and cut the cable. Then wired the plug to the PWD input and spliced in the output to the wiring going to the power panel. OEM wire size and color (orange) is available at Lowes (in my case). I did add an extension to the plug side and of course added wire to reach from the output to where I originally cut into the factory wiring. I used Ideal "in-sure" wire connectors (model # 30-1039) to make my splices. wire gauge #10AWG. EZ to access/remove if needed and behind the sink door to shade the "dog". Please note, these are for solid gauge wire, unlike the similar style used on stranded wire at the water heater connections.

[Schiefswret]

Proud new owner of a 22MLE. I have been reading up and it appears a good surge protector is warranted. They seem very expensive but so is the TT. Any recommendations on a good one, either plug in or hard-wired. Thank you.

FWIW, I’ve had good luck with the Surge Guard brand, however, like many other RV items, different people have preferences for different brands. The only thing I feel strong about is, if your going to use one, you might as well get a high quality model. I had one a couple of years ago that interrupted what appeared to be a significant problem with the shore power post
and it appears to have saved a ton of damage to our RV as it was totaled/toasted when I plugged it in and the Campsite Managment sent out an electrician and he all but rebuilt the entire post. 😫. You will hear others that say they don’t use one at all and have never a problem, so do as you please.

[JHC]

Thanks. I did buy one and it works great.

[ENDICOTTCEB]

Well in my 22MLE there was enough room to mount the PWD-30EP0 under the sink. I removed the power outlet connection and cut the cable. Then wired the plug to the PWD input and spliced in the output to the wiring going to the power panel. OEM wire size and color (orange) is available at Lowes (in my case). I did add an extension to the plug side and of course added wire to reach from the output to where I originally cut into the factory wiring. I used Ideal "in-sure" wire connectors (model # 30-1039) to make my splices. wire gauge #10AWG. EZ to access/remove if needed and behind the sink door to shade the "dog". Please note, these are for solid gauge wire, unlike the similar style used on stranded wire at the water heater connections.

Was looking at where to install and thought under the sink too, but why did you need to cut the cable if you removed the power outlet/inlet connection? I was thinking remove the cable from the inlet and put on the PWD-30EPO outlet. Then make a pigtail from the surge protector to the inlet. Wouldn't need to cut anything and can put back as was if need be?

[Yoda]

Proud new owner of a 22MLE. I have been reading up and it appears a good surge protector is warranted. They seem very expensive but so is the TT. Any recommendations on a good one, either plug in or hard-wired. Thank you.

This is the one I have and it works well https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt30x Its caught a few problems in some older campgrounds.

[ncitro]

Just a reminder to everyone, this thread is from 2020, so keep that in mind with your responses.

[Capt Bob]

Was looking at where to install and thought under the sink too, but why did you need to cut the cable if you removed the power outlet/inlet connection? I was thinking remove the cable from the inlet and put on the PWD-30EPO outlet. Then make a pigtail from the surge protector to the inlet. Wouldn't need to cut anything and can put back as was if need be?

Just a different way to skin the same cat. Your plan makes sense, I just didn’t think like that at the time. Still works the same and it goes with the trailer when sold.

[Lonestar]

Was looking at where to install and thought under the sink too, but why did you need to cut the cable if you removed the power outlet/inlet connection? I was thinking remove the cable from the inlet and put on the PWD-30EPO outlet. Then make a pigtail from the surge protector to the inlet. Wouldn't need to cut anything and can put back as was if need be?

I would do it the way you are suggesting. By maintaining the original length of the cable, if the EMS were to ever have an issue while you were away from home, you could remove the cable from the output terminals and re-connect it to the power inlet plug. Unbelievably, they left enough cable in my trailer I was able to splice in to it and still be able to re-connect if ever needed, otherwise I'd bought a short pigtail to add on.

[Kathy&Jim_Imagine]

Right from the Progressive web site.

Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C for 30 amp RV



EMS-HW30C


Hardwired EMS-HW30C RV Surge & Electrical Protector



Electrical Management System (EMS) helps to protect your RV against voltage fluctuations, power surges and incorrectly wired shore power which can cause severe and costly damage to RV appliances and electronics. Feel secure with multi-mode surge, voltage, polarity and lost/open neutral protection. Each unit includes a digital display scrolling continuously through the power source information. A state-of-the-art microprocessor provides peace of mind, day or night, even when you're away from your RV.


Product Features:

• Over/Under Voltage Protection
• Open Ground, Open Neutral & Reverse Polarity Detection
• Accidental 240V Protection
• Miswired Pedestal Indication
• Surge Failure Indicator
• Amperage Meter Display
• Previous Error Code
• A/C Frequency Protection
• Time Delay (136 seconds)
• Adjustable Time Delay
• Thermally Protected
• Remote Display w/Scrolling Digital Display
• Field Serviceable
• UL Certified and Canadian Approved
• Lifetime Warranty

Product Specs:

Surge Protection:

3-Mode / 1,790J / 44,000A max current spike

Response time: < 1 nanosecond (10⁻⁹ second)
Ratings: 30A / 120V / 3,600W
Operating Temperatures: -40C to +105C
Data Cable: 14'
Product Dimensions: 9" W x 5" H x 5" D



Tech Specs:

Part #: EMS-HW30C
Box Dimensions: 5" W x 9½" H x 3¼" D
Boxed Weight: 4 lbs



Marketing Resources (downloadable product images, logos, flyers, etc.)



Operating and Instruction Manual (view, download, print)

[guest2]

I've seen the end results of a surge protection. No contest for me - external mount, less worry. I sleep just fine at night.

Agreed. External mount for me as well.
Rich

[guest2]

A purpose-made security cable is quite a bit more secure than a chain. A chain is easily cut with bolt cutters. Security cables are designed to thwart bolt cutters.

Rob

But succumb to battery powered grinders 🙄
Rich

[reubenray]

After RV'ing for 11 years I have never felt the need to put a lock on my surge protector.