There is a thread about replacing incandescent taillights with LED lights, https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...s-2019-315rlts. The 2018 310GK already comes with LED taillights, but I wasn't satisfied with them. So I decided to go ahead and replace them. I thought about using a pair of light bars, mounted vertically high up, as additions to the current ones, but since the walls are foam filled I decided against that and simply replaced them in place.
I used the Bargman 47-84-610 36 LED units, which despite warnings in the above referenced thread, I got from eTrailer. They happened to come through undamaged. Yea!
Like Cate&Rob, my mounting screws were rusty indicating poor sealing. I've observed this in many places on this trailer. All the screws I put back in are individually siliconed. Rather than using silicone around the perimeter, though, I have used butyl tape to seal the unit overall. It is messy, but I like the way it seals.
This is a much larger unit, so no, the screw holes don't line up. No biggie.
I never noticed it, but the tail light on the left is higher up than the one on the right by an inch on our trailer. The license plate light and fixture seems to optically offset it so it is not objectionable. I wanted to make them the same height, but then the right light would not cover the wiring hole completely. So they will still be an inch off. Oh, well.
The thread about incandescents correctly makes the point that the wiring should be pulled out so the new light is wired directly into the trailer's wiring. I don't know if this is specific to my rig or all 310s, but there was absolutely no slack in the wiring. So I had to clip the wires off close to the old lights and splice into the remnants. Not to my liking, but it works. And if you need to tie into the lamp wiring instead of the trailer wiring, the colors don't match. White to white, red to black, and black to green. But as the incandescent thread notes, meter the wiring yourself. Every RV is electrically unique, and there is no guarantee that the colors in the rig match what you would expect.
So was it worth replacing LED with (more) LED? I think so, but you decide for yourself. Below during the day with the brake on.
I used the Bargman 47-84-610 36 LED units, which despite warnings in the above referenced thread, I got from eTrailer. They happened to come through undamaged. Yea!
Like Cate&Rob, my mounting screws were rusty indicating poor sealing. I've observed this in many places on this trailer. All the screws I put back in are individually siliconed. Rather than using silicone around the perimeter, though, I have used butyl tape to seal the unit overall. It is messy, but I like the way it seals.
This is a much larger unit, so no, the screw holes don't line up. No biggie.
I never noticed it, but the tail light on the left is higher up than the one on the right by an inch on our trailer. The license plate light and fixture seems to optically offset it so it is not objectionable. I wanted to make them the same height, but then the right light would not cover the wiring hole completely. So they will still be an inch off. Oh, well.
The thread about incandescents correctly makes the point that the wiring should be pulled out so the new light is wired directly into the trailer's wiring. I don't know if this is specific to my rig or all 310s, but there was absolutely no slack in the wiring. So I had to clip the wires off close to the old lights and splice into the remnants. Not to my liking, but it works. And if you need to tie into the lamp wiring instead of the trailer wiring, the colors don't match. White to white, red to black, and black to green. But as the incandescent thread notes, meter the wiring yourself. Every RV is electrically unique, and there is no guarantee that the colors in the rig match what you would expect.
So was it worth replacing LED with (more) LED? I think so, but you decide for yourself. Below during the day with the brake on.
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