Molex recall repair my way - I still don't like it

[Yoda]

Here is Johns link

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Ass...9497680&sr=8-1

Its a spring loaded connection fitting. Not sure if it would be any better in the long run that the knife splice molex, I still like Rob's Cate&Rob twist lock extension cord end fittings.
I think he used something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Elec...498046&sr=8-27
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KH4T7T...dDbGljaz10cnVl
on edit - found a 30 amp version

https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-Pr..._t5_B075DF5DRT

I wish I knew what brands were good. Lots of choices out there

Bottom line folks years ago I learned not to use the knife splice connections. Yes they were easy to tap into lines, but they cut strands along with the insulation and over time the vibration wear would cut the taped line. The also create current hot spots as the are not in full contact with all the strands - do a search on them - lots of information out there.

2nd edit
I also found this interesting read. It appear butt connectors can be used to connect solid to stranded wire.
http://www.electricalbasics.com/blog...al-Connections

[Jbandtbone]

Here is Johns link

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Ass...9497680&sr=8-1

Its a spring loaded connection fitting. Not sure if it would be any better in the long run that the knife splice molex, I still like Rob's Cate&Rob twist lock extension cord end fittings.
I think he used something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Elec...498046&sr=8-27
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KH4T7T...dDbGljaz10cnVl
on edit - found a 30 amp version

https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-Pr..._t5_B075DF5DRT

I wish I knew what brands were good. Lots of choices out there

Bottom line folks years ago I learned not to use the knife splice connections. Yes they were easy to tap into lines, but they cut strands along with the insulation and over time the vibration wear would cut the taped line. The also create current hot spots as the are not in full contact with all the strands - do a search on them - lots of information out there.

2nd edit
I also found this interesting read. It appear butt connectors can be used to connect solid to stranded wire.
http://www.electricalbasics.com/blog...al-Connections

Keith,

Well I went ahead and took the belly part way down, only broke one self taper, found four of the Molex connectors. The connectors looked good, nothing loose. And I will have to agree with you the plugs or the butt splices would work as good if not better. Correct me if I'm being a stupid retired Civil inspector but: "These connectors were used to reduce the movement of the romex wires! Well after I got done zip tying them up to the supports, I had the my better half close the slides while looking into the cavity. None of the excess wire moves what so ever. So is it some code/standard that they a connector at this location or is it the speed at which they can install them? Because obviously the gentlemen fabricating these RVs don't give a hoot where they run the wires or how tight they tighten/torque any fasteners." We will be talking again soon when I start my repair of the stripped out fasteners for my awnings. Already been looking at your repair procedures. I also used a bigger washer on the self tapers when reinstalling them, so the material wouldn't rip through the original washer area, because of over tightening/torquing.

[Yoda]

Keith,

Well I went ahead and took the belly part way down, only broke one self taper, found four of the Molex connectors. The connectors looked good, nothing loose. And I will have to agree with you the plugs or the butt splices would work as good if not better. Correct me if I'm being a stupid retired Civil inspector but: "These connectors were used to reduce the movement of the romex wires! Well after I got done zip tying them up to the supports, I had the my better half close the slides while looking into the cavity. None of the excess wire moves what so ever. So is it some code/standard that they a connector at this location or is it the speed at which they can install them? Because obviously the gentlemen fabricating these RVs don't give a hoot where they run the wires or how tight they tighten/torque any fasteners." We will be talking again soon when I start my repair of the stripped out fasteners for my awnings. Already been looking at your repair procedures. I also used a bigger washer on the self tapers when reinstalling them, so the material wouldn't rip through the original washer area, because of over tightening/torquing.

Please be sure to get it inspected so GD is satisfied. Give then a call if you don't want to use your dealer.

[Jbandtbone]

Please be sure to get it inspected so GD is satisfied. Give then a call if you don't want to use your dealer.

I'm hoping the Central Florida GDO Rally in April is still on. I'm hoping to have them look at it there to sign off on hopefully. But I also want to show them the peeling coatings on the frame from not being sand blasted prior to coating,aggressive rusting in some areas, some questionable welds on the frame, suspension brackets,etc. Bought it slightly used in June 2019, owner said only used five times. Three years old and coating peeling off in sheets under the chloroplast (belly fabric) when removing the tapers just to peek inside. As you know it doesn't take that much time to do it right the first time. Thanks again.

[TucsonJim]

I'm hoping the Central Florida GDO Rally in April is still on. I'm hoping to have them look at it there to sign off on hopefully. But I also want to show them the peeling coatings on the frame from not being sand blasted prior to coating,aggressive rusting in some areas, some questionable welds on the frame, suspension brackets,etc. Bought it slightly used in June 2019, owner said only used five times. Three years old and coating peeling off in sheets under the chloroplast (belly fabric) when removing the tapers just to peek inside. As you know it doesn't take that much time to do it right the first time. Thanks again.

My 2014 Reflection FW was delivered in April. It was apparently driven over salted roads due to an ice storm at that time. I had a heck of a time dealing with rust until another forum member told me about Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It comes in a liquid or aerosol can and is worth every penny. It actually neutralizes rust and turns the area into a primed surface which is ready to paint. I normally don't believe in "miracle" goops and gunks, but this stuff really works. Once I treated an area, I never had another issue.

Jim

[Jbandtbone]

My 2014 Reflection FW was delivered in April. It was apparently driven over salted roads due to an ice storm at that time. I had a heck of a time dealing with rust until another forum member told me about Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It comes in a liquid or aerosol can and is worth every penny. It actually neutralizes rust and turns the area into a primed surface which is ready to paint. I normally don't believe in "miracle" goops and gunks, but this stuff really works. Once I treated an area, I never had another issue.

Jim

Well I know it doesn't help living Florida, but the salt air should not have done this in three years. If I was pulling a boat behind it and using it to launch it in the ocean or a brackish river I could understand that. I've been using CRC Instant Cold Galvanize and Z.R.C. Cold Galvanizing Compound on the chips and nicks around the pin. Thank you I'll look into it. I spent 12 yrs as a civil coatings inspector on Nuclear Power plants in the 80's. They used a CZ-11 from Carboline on the steel hangers and just tack welded prior to installing them into the reactor bldg. The hangers would sit by Biscayne Bay east of Homestead for months no rust where they weren't welded yet.

[TucsonJim]

So I said to myself. "Jim - Why don't you go out and take a peek inside the underbelly and do a quick fix for the recall?". So I answered myself and said "Sure - It should only take a couple of minutes". Then I said "Stop talking to yourself".

Dang it! I should not have peeked. I thought my buddies in the factory would treat me like a king and build mine with with extra special care because I'm their number one customer. Oops - Wrong...
I'm going to post a few photos of what I ran into. And since this was just a peek into one area, I'm sure the rest of the underbelly needs just as much work. I showed the photos to my bride and she agreed that we both need to dress up in our work clothes, drop the whole underbelly and do a complete clean up of the wiring and plumbing. We'll get started next week when our temps are supposed to drop into the 70's (finally).


Pic 1 - In order to drop the underbelly, we need to remove the stabilizers, rear receiver, rear trim strip, and gas lines. And while we're at it, I'm going to clean up that ugly brown blob of foam.

Pic 2 - I found these three coax connections with loose fittings. This explains snow on our TV signals. What was even more interesting was that they appear to have been braided with the 120VAC wiring. I'll have to get this all untwisted.

Pic 3 - Two of the three Molex connectors were assembled with the outer sleeve cut back too far and not inserted into the connector. As you can see, the sharp edge on the connector has cut the sleeve on the wiring. I'll change these connectors to twist locks. Dang - now I need a manicure.

Pic 4 - It's kind of hard to see here due to limited visibility until I get the belly dropped. But lots of wires are in close proximity to the slide out tracks. This would most likely never present a problem, but I'll eliminate any possibility of a snag when I get access.

Let the games begin!

Jim

[howson]

Let the games begin!

Looks a lot like what I found on mine, Jim. Every single coax connector was loose. Probably the worst culprit was the turn/brake light wiring. To get it unraveled I had to disconnect the wires at the junction box near the tongue, pull them all the way back to the bumper, and then route them back to the front junction box.

Don't forget to take a look at the speaker wires, too, as I found a incorrectly wired connectors. (As you probably know, speakers will still work wired like this but the audio will be out of phase which makes the sound "thin".)

[TucsonJim]

Looks a lot like what I found on mine, Jim. Every single coax connector was loose. Probably the worst culprit was the turn/brake light wiring. To get it unraveled I had to disconnect the wires at the junction box near the tongue, pull them all the way back to the bumper, and then route them back to the front junction box.

Don't forget to take a look at the speaker wires, too, as I found a incorrectly wired connectors. (As you probably know, speakers will still work wired like this but the audio will be out of phase which makes the sound "thin".)

And I figure as long as we have it all dropped, we'll replace any braided hose we encounter with PEX. And of course inspect all the furnace ducts and repair as needed.

Jim

[Calbar]

And I figure as long as we have it all dropped, we'll replace any braided hose we encounter with PEX. And of course inspect all the furnace ducts and repair as needed.

Jim

I just had the tech come out and fix my molex recall since they didn't do it right the first time. I peeked in mine to and much the same as what you have in there Jim. My trailer is put to bed for the winter now. If I am still retired in the spring I may decide to tackle this too.

Rob

[Yoda]

Let the games begin!

Jim I am worried about you. Talking and actually answering yourself. I would saw Man Up (been there done that). You need therapy my friend. The Force is guiding me to guide you to the light. You need to safely visit Lowe's, Home Depot, Amazon, EBAY, and any other tool place know in the universe and to supply yourself with everything you might need, wanted, wished for, or ever thought of needing. With Covid we need to hunker down and fix everything known to man. IN addition stock up on TP, munchies, and the liquid libation of choice, Be sure to get plenty if Ice, Tyleol, Band Aids, duct tape, zip ties, bailing wire and twine. Having 911 on speed dial might be prudent too.

I'm am sure you have AAADD. CRS.and Tinker syndrome. It appears your lacking in Brain stimulus and need something to do which can be very very dangerous in these times. Be sure you enlist the help of a tinker buddy - someone who cares about you and would not want you to become the subject of laughter. However laughter is a cure for all of the above.

Good luck opening the belly of the beast. May the Force be with you my friend. Stay safe

Keith


PS My sister lives near you and will not be happy if things get below 70. My thoughts - let it snow

[TucsonJim]

Jim I am worried about you. Talking and actually answering yourself. I would saw Man Up (been there done that). You need therapy my friend. The Force is guiding me to guide you to the light. You need to safely visit Lowe's, Home Depot, Amazon, EBAY, and any other tool place know in the universe and to supply yourself with everything you might need, wanted, wished for, or ever thought of needing. With Covid we need to hunker down and fix everything known to man. IN addition stock up on TP, munchies, and the liquid libation of choice, Be sure to get plenty if Ice, Tyleol, Band Aids, duct tape, zip ties, bailing wire and twine. Having 911 on speed dial might be prudent too.

I'm am sure you have AAADD. CRS.and Tinker syndrome. It appears your lacking in Brain stimulus and need something to do which can be very very dangerous in these times. Be sure you enlist the help of a tinker buddy - someone who cares about you and would not want you to become the subject of laughter. However laughter is a cure for all of the above.

Good luck opening the belly of the beast. May the Force be with you my friend. Stay safe

Keith


PS My sister lives near you and will not be happy if things get below 70. My thoughts - let it snow

Well, the beast is open. What a mess. I'm going to tackle it in four stages.

1. AC (Molex) wiring.
2. DC wiring
3. Soft Hose swap to PEX
4. Furnace duct work.

The AC wiring is now complete. My first step was to open the Molex connectors to see if I could repair the wiring job that left exposed wires. No luck. When trying to reassemble the connectors, one of the latches snapped off, so it was useless. So I cussed myself out for breaking it and started a search for how I wanted to replace it. I think they are a mediocre connector and didn't want to replace them with the same thing. I discussed replacement with Jerry M. from GDRV, and he suggested twist lock connectors inside of a watertight box. I didn't really like that solution either. You have to screw the wires to the twist lock plug, then connect the two plugs together and try to stuff it in a box. So I did some research and found the waterproof junction boxes that are in the link below. They have screw terminals onto a small buss bar. This eliminates a secondary twist fitting. The boxes I used are rated for 450VAC, and 24 amps.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed some plywood to the frame supports, installed the boxes, completed the wiring, and cleaned up the wire runs. Here's some photos.



This drives me crazy. It's a short drive.....

Starboard Side

Starboard side with covers in place

Port Side

Now on to the DC wiring... Oh yeah, one final thought. I'm not 24 years old anymore. I wonder what aches and pains my 66 year old body will have tomorrow morning? I think I made 386.2 trips up and down while gathering tools and supplies to do this job. I need to self medicate with a cold IPA.

Jim

[Calbar]

Well, the beast is open. What a mess. I'm going to tackle it in four stages.

1. AC (Molex) wiring.
2. DC wiring
3. Soft Hose swap to PEX
4. Furnace duct work.

The AC wiring is now complete. My first step was to open the Molex connectors to see if I could repair the wiring job that left exposed wires. No luck. When trying to reassemble the connectors, one of the latches snapped off, so it was useless. So I cussed myself out for breaking it and started a search for how I wanted to replace it. I think they are a mediocre connector and didn't want to replace them with the same thing. I discussed replacement with Jerry M. from GDRV, and he suggested twist lock connectors inside of a watertight box. I didn't really like that solution either. You have to screw the wires to the twist lock plug, then connect the two plugs together and try to stuff it in a box. So I did some research and found the waterproof junction boxes that are in the link below. They have screw terminals onto a small buss bar. This eliminates a secondary twist fitting. The boxes I used are rated for 450VAC, and 24 amps.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed some plywood to the frame supports, installed the boxes, completed the wiring, and cleaned up the wire runs. Here's some photos.

This drives me crazy. It's a short drive.....

Now on to the DC wiring... Oh yeah, one final thought. I'm not 24 years old anymore. I wonder what aches and pains my 66 year old body will have tomorrow morning? I think I made 386.2 trips up and down while gathering tools and supplies to do this job. I need to self medicate with a cold IPA.

Jim

Nice work Jim,

I dread the thought of opening mine up someday to find the same rats nest, heat duct and soft pipe issues. Maybe in the spring if I am still semi-retired or should I say forced retirement.

Rob

[Country Campers]

Jim

Thanks for the link to the boxes. This is what I will get for mine. I am patiently waiting for you to finish so I will know what and how to do mine.

Brian

[TucsonJim]

Jim

Thanks for the link to the boxes. This is what I will get for mine. I am patiently waiting for you to finish so I will know what and how to do mine.

Brian

Those boxes work fine, but they are not the easiest to work with. They didn't provide the torque value for the wire screws, so I did it by "feel" and then did a pull test to make sure the wires were snug. In addition, there is not a lot of room to work with when you insert the wires, so you need to be careful with stripping the insulation so you don't under/over penetrate with the wires. But if you take your time, you should have a pretty robust connection.

I sent a couple of photos to Jerry and Brad to see if this will meet the recall requirements. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Jim