Originally posted by StephenO
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View Post
There was no soldering on that end, only on the pigtail. I haven’t done any investigation into thr junction box other than to remove the cover to see if any obvious was out of orderMike
2017 Imagine 2800BH pushing a 2019 Ford F150 Platinum
Formerly: 2002 Rockwood Popup
Location: Massachusetts
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Originally posted by mpking View Post
When you replaced the pigtail, did you remove the pigtail entirely from the junction box, or just cut the end off the existing pigtail and put a new 7way connector on the end? (IE, have you been in the junction box before?)Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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Between Stephen and mpking I’m not real sure I responded correctly as to getting them to the correct person. Please be so kind and look over and advise what is your next recommendation. Thanks! PS: I’m thinking maybe I should remove the recently installed pigtail and cleanup my solder job, check for stray wires, etc and reinstall more carefully and see what happens, however, I don’t really know, that’s why I’m here 😃Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View PostBetween Stephen and mpking I’m not real sure I responded correctly as to getting them to the correct person. Please be so kind and look over and advise what is your next recommendation. Thanks!
Just to confirm things are working as expected for your test, maybe trying doing the test again, but with the Right Signal light. IE, insert one MM probe into Ground (white), and the other into Right Signal / Stop (brown). Just make sure you get a reading there, then you know your MM and everything is working as expected.Last edited by StephenO; 09-25-2020, 10:03 AM.2019 Imagine 2400BH
2019 F150 XLT Super Crew, EcoBoost, 6.5' box, Max tow package with 3.55 ratio
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Originally posted by StephenO View Post
Hey Schiefswret , saw your message. If the MM is reading "1", which is where is started out, that means you have no connection to the light. To explain more, when you switch the MM to Ohm / Resistance mode with the probes not touching, and you see 1 that means the unit sees resistance too high to read. If you then touch the probes together you'll likely see 0.0 or something like that, meaning you have a direct connection with essentially no resistance. What you wanted to see in that test is a reading like mpking suggested, which means you are seeing the resistance of the lights.
Just to confirm things are working as expected for your test, maybe trying doing the test again, but with the Right Signal light. IE, insert one MM probe into Ground (white), and the other into Right Signal / Stop (brown). Just make sure you get a reading there, then you know your MM and everything is working as expected.Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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Schiefswret mpking StephenO
If these tail lights are LED (which they probably are) using a meter to measure circuit resistance may not give a useful result.
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Originally posted by Cate&Rob View PostSchiefswret mpking StephenO
If these tail lights are LED (which they probably are) using a meter to measure circuit resistance may not give a useful result.
RobDave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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Schiefswret
If you are working in the junction box anyway . . . you could switch the red and brown wires (left and right turn/stop) to see if the problem follows the exchange or stays with the input.
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Originally posted by Cate&Rob View PostSchiefswret
If you are working in the junction box anyway . . . you could switch the red and brown wires (left and right turn/stop) to see if the problem follows the exchange or stays with the input.
Rob
Your thoughts on that? Also asking the other guys the same question but not real sure how to add them to my post.
I also have a new spare plug and a new complete 7 way 8ft trailer cable with junction box, FWIW
btw I sure appreciate your guys help.
the set is the old style two sided connectors and the lone plug is the new style, one sided.Last edited by Schiefswret; 09-25-2020, 10:26 AM.Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View Post
I’m thinking that this problem started after installing the new socket to the TV so maybe I should remove the wires from the attachment points, inspect for stray wires, etc and reattach.
Your thoughts on that? Also asking the other guys the same question but not real sure how to add them to my post.
I also have a new spare plug and a new complete 7 way 8ft trailer cable with junction box, FWIW
btw I sure appreciate your guys help.
the set is the old style two sided connectors and the lone plug is the new style, one sided.2019 Imagine 2400BH
2019 F150 XLT Super Crew, EcoBoost, 6.5' box, Max tow package with 3.55 ratio
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Originally posted by StephenO View Post
My vote would almost be to remove the old cord completely, all the way to the junction box, versus trying to solder on a new plug end, and install that new plug, cord and junction box you have in your picture...Just my thought, but that way you have a solid connection from the plug all the way to the junction box.Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View Post
Gotcha, that’ what I’ll (or someone) will do. I suspect that since it’s just an RandR, I could probably do it, however I’m a little gun shy because if I get in a jam I’ll probably not know how to get out. 🤪
The connections are not anything crazy to be honest. If you have done any sort of household electrical work, you should be able to do it.2019 Imagine 2400BH
2019 F150 XLT Super Crew, EcoBoost, 6.5' box, Max tow package with 3.55 ratio
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Originally posted by Schiefswret View Post
I’m thinking that this problem started after installing the new socket to the TV so maybe.......
Mike
2017 Imagine 2800BH pushing a 2019 Ford F150 Platinum
Formerly: 2002 Rockwood Popup
Location: Massachusetts
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Originally posted by StephenO View Post
I'll add to my statement about replacing the whole cord....Since the trailer brakes also run through that plug and cable, you want to make sure that connection is good and secure. If your truck in your signature is like mine, there is nothing worse than towing your trailer and the truck display says, "Trailer Disconnected" and you don't have trailer brakes anymore, ask me how I know
The connections are not anything crazy to be honest. If you have done any sort of household electrical work, you should be able to do it.
so I’ll eliminate the possibility of getting stuck. MUCH thanks to you all for your efforts to help.Dave and Sue
2020 GD 2250RK
2019 F-150 XLT, 5.0, 4WD, SB
Curt 17500 WDH, 3.55
GY Endurance, Dexter EZ Flex
SCPO(SW) USN, (Ret), HP: Tampa Bay ⚓️🇺🇸
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