Left Turn Signal ooc

[Schiefswret]

Did you do any wiring on the Truck side of things, or is just the pigtail?

Nope, truck is 100% stock. Thank you mpking for your input!

[Schiefswret]

Schiefswret
If you are working in the junction box anyway . . . you could switch the red and brown wires (left and right turn/stop) to see if the problem follows the exchange or stays with the input.

Rob

Rob, off topic but it appears that you may have the 3.5 TT Ecoboost, have you had any trouble with the Turbos?

[mpking]

Although I think I probably could pull it off, I know a mobile RV repair guy here in town that is pretty sharp and is returning to St Pete next week and will do it for a one hour charge
so I’ll eliminate the possibility of getting stuck. MUCH thanks to you all for your efforts to help.

I think this would be your best bet (replacing the whole cord).

Back to the multimeter. The 1 reading is most likely indicating open, or that the circuit is not complete.

[Schiefswret]

I think this would be your best bet (replacing the whole cord).

Back to the multimeter. The 1 reading is most likely indicating open, or that the circuit is not complete.

Thank you mp. My only concern (previously reported during the procedure) was that I may or may not have been using the meter correctly because it always read 1 even before starting the placement of either probe and after placing both probes at the test points, it never read anything other than 1, didnt even jump back to zero or two briefly, the 1 never blinked, nothing! It acted like it was stuck on 1. I turned it off and on, reset the indicator, threw it against the wall (Maybe I didn’t do that) etc and it just stayed there like it was possessed. In any case, we will have the new cable set installed next week and hopefully be back in business. Thanks again for your efforts to help.

[Yoda]

@Schiefswret

There is one more test you can do if your up to pulling the tail lights. Its the wire continuity through the trailer (from plug to tail). At the trailer plug insert a jumper between the ground and turn signal spade. Make sure this is a good tight fit. Than at the rear light assembly use your ohm meter between the turn signal wire and ground wire. You ohm meter should peg -- at least that's what my old sears analog one does when I have a good circuit. I always test my meter by touching my probes together which give the same results. So for you meter do the probe touch test - you should see the same on the light circuit. Do the good side too. That way you can also eliminate that you just might have a bad light, and find out if the circuit is open. You might be able to get to the tail light wiring under the rear corners of the trailer without having to pull the lights.

Hope this helps
Keith

Now I need to go find my digital circuit tester and find out what it reads when doing the ohm probe touch test and look at my analog one where it actually may be reading zero when probes are touched.

[Schiefswret]

@Schiefswret

There is one more test you can do if your up to pulling the tail lights. Its the wire continuity through the trailer (from plug to tail). At the trailer plug insert a jumper between the ground and turn signal spade. Make sure this is a good tight fit. Than at the rear light assembly use your ohm meter between the turn signal wire and ground wire. You ohm meter should peg -- at least that's what my old sears analog one does when I have a good circuit. I always test my meter by touching my probes together which give the same results. So for you meter do the probe touch test - you should see the same on the light circuit. Do the good side too. That way you can also eliminate that you just might have a bad light, and find out if the circuit is open. You might be able to get to the tail light wiring under the rear corners of the trailer without having to pull the lights.

Hope this helps
Keith

Now I need to go find my digital circuit tester and find out what it reads when doing the ohm probe touch test and look at my analog one where it actually may be reading zero when probes are touched.

Thanks for the input yoga. I’m just wondering if the “juice would be worth the squeeze” since we know that the left light fixture lights up properly when I turn on the TV headlights?
your thoughts?

[Yoda]

Thanks for the input yoga. I’m just wondering if the “juice would be worth the squeeze” since we know that the left light fixture lights up properly when I turn on the TV headlights?
your thoughts?

The running light mode is different than the turn signal (there are 3 wires into the light assembly if I remember correctly) I believe you said the Flasher did not work and what about the stop feature? Turn, flasher, and stop use the same element (hope I am correct on that) With the running light working you know the ground is good - its the third wire I am wondering about. It should support the stop/turn function.

[mpking]

Thanks for the input yoga. I’m just wondering if the “juice would be worth the squeeze” since we know that the left light fixture lights up properly when I turn on the TV headlights?
your thoughts?

This comes back to there are two different circuits in the tail light. One for the brake, one for the running lights.

But I'm pretty sure we've narrowed the problem down to the pigtail that was replaced.

Yoda , he's sorta already did this test with my recommendation. (Test OHMs from the ground to the turn signal). I was having him test at the front, you were having test that the rear. I think he'd get the same result, open wire somewhere. (I think the pigtail connection is where the problem is)

[Schiefswret]

The running light mode is different than the turn signal (there are 3 wires into the light assembly if I remember correctly) I believe you said the Flasher did not work and what about the stop feature? Turn, flasher, and stop use the same element (hope I am correct on that) With the running light working you know the ground is good - its the third wire I am wondering about. It should support the stop/turn function.

Gotcha. Since I’m having the entire cable, pigtail, and junction box replaced next week I’m hoping that will do the trick. If not, I’ll keep the fact that the turn, flasher, and stop use the same element and make a mental note to bring that to the attention of the Mobile rv tech, if necessary. Thanks x2

[Yoda]

This comes back to there are two different circuits in the tail light. One for the brake, one for the running lights.

But I'm pretty sure we've narrowed the problem down to the pigtail that was replaced.

Yoda , he's sorta already did this test with my recommendation. (Test OHMs from the ground to the turn signal). I was having him test at the front, you were having test that the rear. I think he'd get the same result, open wire somewhere. (I think the pigtail connection is where the problem is)

Your probably correct - missed he tested at pigtail. It can be very frustrating tracking down wire issues. At the Colorado rally last year the GD teck spent 2 hours checking my speaker wiring inside the trailer only to tell me it was in the belly and he was not allowed to go there. Still took me hours once I got into it later to realize the GD folks that installed must have been color bind when they wired my speaker up. I found it by shorting across the speakers and testing a lot of splices where the slide wiring cam in. Funny how the problem can literally be in front of your nose.

@Schiefswret
When your mobile teck gets into it, please take a few pictures and watch what he does. Ill be undertaking changing out my cable later down the road.

Thanks
Keith

[Schiefswret]

Your probably correct - missed he tested at pigtail. It can be very frustrating tracking down wire issues. At the Colorado rally last year the GD teck spent 2 hours checking my speaker wiring inside the trailer only to tell me it was in the belly and he was not allowed to go there. Still took me hours once I got into it later to realize the GD folks that installed must have been color bind when they wired my speaker up. I found it by shorting across the speakers and testing a lot of splices where the slide wiring cam in. Funny how the problem can literally be in front of your nose.

@Schiefswret
When your mobile teck gets into it, please take a few pictures and watch what he does. Ill be undertaking changing out my cable later down the road.

Thanks
Keith

Will do. A friend of mine who seems to be able to fix just about anything always says, “it’s usually something simple” but Brain Surgery is probably simple also after 10 years of experience and performing similar procedures 5 or 10 thousand times. Thanks to all for your efforts to help.