Adding Gateway to Winegard 360+

[JAK]

I'm considering buying a Gateway as I have a 360+ in my 2020 31MB Reflection, prewired for it. I took off the cap in the ceiling to find the signal wires as well as a two foot wire loop that I don't dare pull any harder on, wrapped around itself inside the ceiling, both ends traveling somewhere. It's at least a 16/2, maybe 14/2, yellow and white. Is this intended for splicing into for the Gateway? If so, what am I tapping into? is it a power line to the antenna? if so, does the TV antenna switch control the power? and if not, where is the switch? Is Yellow negative like the newer marine wiring? If anybody knows any of this and is willing to share, thanks in advance... -Joe

[howson]

I'm considering buying a Gateway as I have a 360+ in my 2020 31MB Reflection, prewired for it. I took off the cap in the ceiling to find the signal wires as well as a two foot wire loop that I don't dare pull any harder on, wrapped around itself inside the ceiling, both ends traveling somewhere. It's at least a 16/2, maybe 14/2, yellow and white. Is this intended for splicing into for the Gateway? If so, what am I tapping into? is it a power line to the antenna? if so, does the TV antenna switch control the power? and if not, where is the switch? Is Yellow negative like the newer marine wiring? If anybody knows any of this and is willing to share, thanks in advance... -Joe

The rocker switch will come with the Gateway (in the box). I attached the install manual to this post.

Power does not come from the Winegard 360+. That wiring is provided by the OEM. Is the circuit live? (Test with a multimeter.) If it's not, is there an empty fuse slot labeled for the Gateway in the Power Center? If you can't figure out how those wires are powered, call GD Customer Service (and follow up here to tell us what you found out).

For a thread documenting my install, check out: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...ion-in-315rlts

Also noted this was your first post, so when you get a chance please read the Welcome Letter to New Members https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

Howard

[JAK]

Thanks Howard, If anybody's interested, here's what I've found out so far... I have not tested the wire, as I don't want to open it up if I don't use it, and it appears to be a circuit in use, not a dedicated wire. There is no empty fuse slot, nor anything labeled. My dealer was useless as far as knowledge on the subject, GD had a little info, though not much. Apparently they've had enough calls to attempt to figure this out, but they still don't have all the info one would expect. They say the yellow and white is the power wire for the gateway, the yellow being hot, the white ground. That's all they have. More detail on what I see: The wire appears to be going somewhere as it does not dead end at the cover plate, so I assume one should tap into it, keeping the rest of the circuit live. GD could not tell me what switch activated the circuit, or even if there was one... which seems a little bizarre to me. If anybody's figured that out yet, please let me know. We do have one rocker switch opposite the entry door on the outside of the mid-bunk room of which I have not identified the purpose. It is also wired yellow and white... maybe, though seems like an odd place, though comparably convenient for a wire run. If anybody knows what that is for? That's all I've e got so far.

[howson]

Thanks Howard, If anybody's interested, here's what I've found out so far... I have not tested the wire, as I don't want to open it up if I don't use it, and it appears to be a circuit in use, not a dedicated wire. There is no empty fuse slot, nor anything labeled. My dealer was useless as far as knowledge on the subject, GD had a little info, though not much. Apparently they've had enough calls to attempt to figure this out, but they still don't have all the info one would expect. They say the yellow and white is the power wire for the gateway, the yellow being hot, the white ground. That's all they have. More detail on what I see: The wire appears to be going somewhere as it does not dead end at the cover plate, so I assume one should tap into it, keeping the rest of the circuit live. GD could not tell me what switch activated the circuit, or even if there was one... which seems a little bizarre to me. If anybody's figured that out yet, please let me know. We do have one rocker switch opposite the entry door on the outside of the mid-bunk room of which I have not identified the purpose. It is also wired yellow and white... maybe, though seems like an odd place, though comparably convenient for a wire run. If anybody knows what that is for? That's all I've e got so far.

I'll see if I can get more info for you...might take a few days.

[howson]

JAK -- I need you to enter your VIN into your profile before I can inquire through my sources...if you'd like me to pursue it populate the VIN and let me know it's done, OK?

Howard

[JAK]

Okay, Howard. I think I have that info up. I appreciate the help. I'm usually going about 15 different directions these days, so sorry about not having that info sooner. -Joe

[howson]

JAK -- by any chance do you have a name of the person you talked with at Grand Design? There's no record of a call in your Customer Service file (unusual). Not doubting that there was a call--it's a crazy time in the CS world (they are all working from home) but my contact wants to follow-up if documentation is getting missed.

For your question, I'm close to having an answer. To fill in all the gaps, can you take a picture of that wire in the ceiling? Is it literally a loop (comes in and goes out with no break) or is it a wire with an end? (This is why a good pic will help me to understand.)

Howard

[JAK]

I can get a pic tomorrow if it helps. I'll try to describe it better now. It was literally a loop with an overhand knot (very loose) tied above the ceiling, with the end of the loop zip tied, along with the three antenna wires, to the cover plate. I couldn't tell for sure what was happening with the wire inside the ceiling until I undid the "knot". It appears side of the loop leads forward, the other aft. Hope that helps a little.

The customer service person was a lady, but I did not get her name. It sure sounded like she'd had this question before, though maybe just record of others asking...

Thanks for your help!

[howson]

I can get a pic tomorrow if it helps. I'll try to describe it better now. It was literally a loop with an overhand knot (very loose) tied above the ceiling, with the end of the loop zip tied, along with the three antenna wires, to the cover plate. I couldn't tell for sure what was happening with the wire inside the ceiling until I undid the "knot". It appears side of the loop leads forward, the other aft. Hope that helps a little.

The customer service person was a lady, but I did not get her name. It sure sounded like she'd had this question before, though maybe just record of others asking...

Thanks for your help!

Joe,
OK, that makes sense. I don't need a pic. What I get from your words is the circuit is complete (no loose end) as wired currently. What that means is the line is "hot". What I know is the 12v in the wire feeds the air conditioner controls and powered vents. I can't tell (by the Electrical Plan) if the circuit is protected by a fuse in the Power Distribution Panel. Hopefully I'll have more for you soon.

At minimum, removing all 12v power from the trailer (by disconnecting the negative from the battery) is the safest approach for now. To wire in power to the Gateway, cutting the wire and then splicing in switch/fuse/Gateway will be required. The circuit must be completely reconnected so everything else works.

Are you familiar with working with electricity? This is a relatively easy process but can be confounding to those not familiar with the concepts. (No offense--just need to clarify how much info I need to convey.)

Howard

[JAK]

Gotcha. Thanks so much. I'm familiar with electrical, especially DC, as I wire most of the boats I build, but things are done a bit differently, with a lot more precautions, as corrosion is more likely and the consequences of fire on a boat at sea can be a bit more severe. It's made me careful enough not to want to tap into a circuit I know nothing about. I have no problem with doing the work involved safely, once I'm comfortable with what else is going on. There may be a 15 amp fuse for the circuit you're talking about labeled REAR OH, maybe OH stands for overhead? That's what we call a ceiling on a boat... All the fuses in the panel are larger than the 3 amps they call for on the Gateway, so I would definitely put an inline fuse in. I have to decide whether I want the Gateway switch in the ceiling as I don't think I can fish a wire anywhere else, unless maybe to where that wire runs after I cut it... if I knew where it ran. It's unfortunate there is no schematic available specifically for this model. If I knew where the wire ran and everything it powered along the way, perhaps I could find a more convenient spot. Also, knowing if there is another switch inline would be useful. If you do find out any more info, please let me know. Also, if your connections know what that switch is for that sits below the heating/cooling controls as you walk through the door... I keep wondering if it has something to do with that circuit, and maybe I could fish a wire from there. Thanks for all your help, Howard! Merry Christmas!

[howson]

Gotcha. Thanks so much. I'm familiar with electrical, especially DC, as I wire most of the boats I build, but things are done a bit differently, with a lot more precautions, as corrosion is more likely and the consequences of fire on a boat at sea can be a bit more severe. It's made me careful enough not to want to tap into a circuit I know nothing about. I have no problem with doing the work involved safely, once I'm comfortable with what else is going on. There may be a 15 amp fuse for the circuit you're talking about labeled REAR OH, maybe OH stands for overhead? That's what we call a ceiling on a boat... All the fuses in the panel are larger than the 3 amps they call for on the Gateway, so I would definitely put an inline fuse in. I have to decide whether I want the Gateway switch in the ceiling as I don't think I can fish a wire anywhere else, unless maybe to where that wire runs after I cut it... if I knew where it ran. It's unfortunate there is no schematic available specifically for this model. If I knew where the wire ran and everything it powered along the way, perhaps I could find a more convenient spot. Also, knowing if there is another switch inline would be useful. If you do find out any more info, please let me know. Also, if your connections know what that switch is for that sits below the heating/cooling controls as you walk through the door... I keep wondering if it has something to do with that circuit, and maybe I could fish a wire from there. Thanks for all your help, Howard! Merry Christmas!

Even my source doesn't know for sure what fuse controls the overhead circuit. They *think* it is either DC circuit 3 or 4--only way to know is to test with a multimeter (and then pulling the fuse to see if the circuit "dies") once the wire in the ceiling is opened up, or cut, to splice in the Gateway. Not terribly important, though, because an additional inline 3A fuse is a good idea to protect the Gateway's small wires.

Based on your floorplan the ceiling looks like the most obvious option for the Gateway switch. The closet may be possible, but if installed there the switch could be easy to inadvertently bumped while removing or hanging clothes.

I going to take a guess at the mystery entrance switch--try the fireplace with the switch in both positions. Does the fireplace not work when "off"? (If you hear the fireplace BEEP when moving the switch that's an indicator, too.) If not that--some exterior lighting? (Steps? Nose? LED "party" lights?)

If none of those are right we'll get it figured out.

Howard

P.S. If you do end up installing the Gateway, please document your install as it will help other owners with units similar to the 31MB. And Merry Christmas to you and yours, too!

[Wardniff]

Hi, I’m a newbie to the forum, but I did install a gateway to my 337rls reflection 2021.
When I removed the winegard plate on the ceiling of the unit, there was 3 small BNC connectors and a power wire (orange and white). On mine the power wire feeds the lights in the hall and bath. They are hot all the time (not switched). The gw1000 kit gives you a rocker switch which must be used if you want to turn off the power to the gw1000 (highly recommend using it).
I did NOT want to fish wires from the unit down a wall to install the switch plate so I installed the rocker switch in the gateway unit (gw1000). I have closed a photo of the finished install. You follow the instructions included with the gateway but mount the switch in the gateway instead of a wall. I used a utility knife to cut the hole for the switch.
My findings on my RV:
there is no switched power going up to the air 360+
you will need to add an in-line fuse at the rocker switch if you don’t want the fuse (15amps) for the bath lights to be the only protection. This is optional but recommended
I don’t use the air360 for tv reception so I can’t speak to the signal quality on that. I needed WIFI signal gain and this did a great job
my unit is a 4 season and the foil wrap on the insulation would not let me connect to WIFI inside the camper. It was a strong signal outside

[howson]

Hi, I’m a newbie to the forum, but I did install a gateway to my 337rls reflection 2021.
When I removed the winegard plate on the ceiling of the unit, there was 3 small BNC connectors and a power wire (orange and white). On mine the power wire feeds the lights in the hall and bath. They are hot all the time (not switched). The gw1000 kit gives you a rocker switch which must be used if you want to turn off the power to the gw1000 (highly recommend using it).
I did NOT want to fish wires from the unit down a wall to install the switch plate so I installed the rocker switch in the gateway unit (gw1000). I have closed a photo of the finished install. You follow the instructions included with the gateway but mount the switch in the gateway instead of a wall. I used a utility knife to cut the hole for the switch.
My findings on my RV:
there is no switched power going up to the air 360+
you will need to add an in-line fuse at the rocker switch if you don’t want the fuse (15amps) for the bath lights to be the only protection. This is optional but recommended
I don’t use the air360 for tv reception so I can’t speak to the signal quality on that. I needed WIFI signal gain and this did a great job
my unit is a 4 season and the foil wrap on the insulation would not let me connect to WIFI inside the camper. It was a strong signal outside

Nice job on mounting the switch!

Since that was your first post please take a moment to check out the Welcome Letter to New Members I hope you find it helpful!

Howard

[504matt]

I have the same wire loop on our 28BH. Has anyone received a response on the connections and the purpose of this loop?

I was able to trace the wires back toward the rear AC unit. Even with a borescope, it is difficult to be positive but it appears that they enter the AC housing. One wire appears to be connected to a larger DC wire. If this is the feed from the fuse box, it would explain one end of the loop but not the other.

If this circuit has anything to do with the AC, it probably would not be the best power source of the gateway. Electronic equipment should always be isolated from noisy or inductive loads (e.g. Motors, heaters, fans, etc. )

Thanks,

[howson]

I have the same wire loop on our 28BH. Has anyone received a response on the connections and the purpose of this loop?

I was able to trace the wires back toward the rear AC unit. Even with a borescope, it is difficult to be positive but it appears that they enter the AC housing. One wire appears to be connected to a larger DC wire. If this is the feed from the fuse box, it would explain one end of the loop but not the other.

If this circuit has anything to do with the AC, it probably would not be the best power source of the gateway. Electronic equipment should always be isolated from noisy or inductive loads (e.g. Motors, heaters, fans, etc. )

Thanks,

Hi and welcome to the forum,
I think the answer to your question is in post #9 of this thread. That is a "live" 12v wire meant to be used for the Gateway. It should not be 120vAC.

Disconnecting all power to the trailer (including removing the negative battery cable) is the safest approach to splicing that wire. Obviously to test what's actually there you'll need to reapply power.. If you know how to work with electricity (your post suggests you do) then it will be easy to verify what it is, and the circuit (by removing fuses from the Power Distribution Panel).

Please read through this thread again as anything else I'd write would just be a repeat.

Noted you're new, so also please check out the Welcome Letter to New Members at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members

Howard