I accidentally discovered this topic when troubleshooting my converter. It surprised me, so I thought I would warn others.
I have a 2021 GD 22MLE TT with the WFCO 8735 converter. For wintering the trailer, I did a blow-out of the water lines and put a small ceramic heater inside set to the mid-40's to keep condensation and temperature swings down. This required 24/7 shore power to the rig. Since A/C power was on, the water heater was empty, the water lines were empty, and the water heater power switch is adjacent to the overhead light switch, I figured it would be a good idea to throw the W/H breaker - circuit 5 - rather than risk accidentally powering the water heater with a fat finger on the switch and burning out the heating rod. The main 30A breaker was always in the on position, all of the fuses are intact.
Fast forward a month, I go into the trailer to do some work and I discover that the batteries are dead. The master switch was in the connected position, so I was expecting fully charged batteries. After some troubleshooting, I find that the converter isn't outputting any voltage. I was getting ready to replace the unit when I threw the water heater breaker back on and retested the converter output. Et voila, 13.8V unloaded at the batteries.
I did not fully evaluate which combination of breakers make a difference, but it seems at least for this model converter that circuit 5 must be closed for the DC converter to output any voltage. Perhaps common knowledge for long-time owners, but it was a bit of a surprise to me.
I have a 2021 GD 22MLE TT with the WFCO 8735 converter. For wintering the trailer, I did a blow-out of the water lines and put a small ceramic heater inside set to the mid-40's to keep condensation and temperature swings down. This required 24/7 shore power to the rig. Since A/C power was on, the water heater was empty, the water lines were empty, and the water heater power switch is adjacent to the overhead light switch, I figured it would be a good idea to throw the W/H breaker - circuit 5 - rather than risk accidentally powering the water heater with a fat finger on the switch and burning out the heating rod. The main 30A breaker was always in the on position, all of the fuses are intact.
Fast forward a month, I go into the trailer to do some work and I discover that the batteries are dead. The master switch was in the connected position, so I was expecting fully charged batteries. After some troubleshooting, I find that the converter isn't outputting any voltage. I was getting ready to replace the unit when I threw the water heater breaker back on and retested the converter output. Et voila, 13.8V unloaded at the batteries.
I did not fully evaluate which combination of breakers make a difference, but it seems at least for this model converter that circuit 5 must be closed for the DC converter to output any voltage. Perhaps common knowledge for long-time owners, but it was a bit of a surprise to me.
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