Moving battery to passthru and other misc wiring questions on 22MLE trailer

[BillM321]

I have a 22MLE trailer and once I install a solar system, I am wanting to install a Lithium battery in either the pass-thru or under the bed. I am trying to figure out the existing wiring and also wondering if there is a better way to do this. So here goes....



The best I can tell right now, I think the wiring is as follows:
(please correct me if I am wrong)

1. Is this a 30amp self re-setting circuit breaker ??
2. The wire from the electric jack
3. The wire from the breakaway cable
4. The positive lead off the battery on the trailer tongue
5. ?? I have no idea what this is
6. This is an 8AWG wire that I think leads back to the WFCO power center
7. This is a 10AWG wire that I think leads back to the factory installed solar wiring to the pass-thru storage area
8. ?? I have no idea what this is

I would like to install a Lithium battery in the pass-thru and also install a battery cut-off switch that actually "killed" power to everything except the electric jack and the emergency break-away.

I am thinking that wire #7 terminates in the pass-thru and I could use that (or replace it a new 8AWG wire) to get power form the battery in the pass-thru out to the 30amp circuit breaker on the trailer frame. That would basically replace wire #4. To do this I was thinking about breaking wires 6 and 7 apart from each other and crimping on new ring terminals, so that each wire had its own ring terminal. Right now both wires are connected to the same ring terminal. But once they were separate, I would reconnect wire 6 to the same place it is currently connected. Then I could install a BlueSea disconnect switch on the trailer frame right where the number "2" is in the picture above. On one side of the switch I could connect wires 2, 3, and 7 (with its new ring terminal). And then connect the other side of the BlueSea switch to the existing circuit breaker via a short run of 8AWG wire. My thinking is that this should leave constant 12v battery power to the electric jack and break-away, still leave the circuit breaker between the battery and the rest of the trailer, but then also kill power back to everything else in the trailer when the switch was turned to the off position.

Please let me know if I am thinking about this incorrectly. Or better yet....is there a better way to accomplish this? I am not opposed to replacing the whole "circuit breaker wiring mess" with something better and more protective of the currently exposed wiring.

I have sent an email to Grand Design asking for a wiring schematic, but from what I have read on other posts, I do not have high hopes that what they will send me will be of any real use.

Like I said, please correct me where I am wrong. And let me know if there is a better way to accomplish my goal.

Thank you in advance for any guidance or suggestions you can offer me.

Billm321

[ncitro]

BillM321 I have a fifth wheel so not quite apples to apples but similar. I replaced the whole mess with this blue sea fuse panel. It is not for outdoor so you’d have to extend the wiring inside but much easier to clean up and trouble shoot down the road.

Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P6FTHC...ing=UTF8&psc=1

There were a couple larger circuits that I used resettable circuit breaker on so I would not exceed the capacity of the fuse panel.

2 Piece 50A 50 Amp Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset Fuse Holder for Car Audio Marine Boat Stereo Switch Inverter Replace Fuses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T49B55F...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I did not love the idea of the auto reset ones because if something was tripping then I wanted to know so I could find that problem.

[TucsonJim]

The main difference between your 22MLE and my Reflection 297RSTS is that my breaker was located in a space on the inside of the A-frame and yours is on the outside. Both are subject to exterior moisture and dirt.

Here is how mine was configured to start with:



I wanted something that wasn't quite as susceptible to contamination. So I installed a buss bar with a cover, and then replaced all the terminals with weather resistant heat shrink.


And here are the ground connections:



And finally, here are the connections with their covers installed.

[howson]

1. Is this a 30amp self re-setting circuit breaker ??

Yes

2. The wire from the electric jack
3. The wire from the breakaway cable
4. The positive lead off the battery on the trailer tongue

Correct

5. ?? I have no idea what this is

Should be the power from the tow vehicle 7-pin cord. This is how the "trickle charge" from the truck gets to the battery. A continuity test with your multimeter should confirm. (All power disconnected and off!)

6. This is an 8AWG wire that I think leads back to the WFCO power center
7. This is a 10AWG wire that I think leads back to the factory installed solar wiring to the pass-thru storage area

Correct

8. ?? I have no idea what this is

Most likely the power wire for the TPMS "Lync" system. Again, a quick continuity test should confirm.

Howard

[gbkims]

I have a 22MLE trailer and once I install a solar system, I am wanting to install a Lithium battery in either the pass-thru or under the bed. I am trying to figure out the existing wiring and also wondering if there is a better way to do this. So here goes....

On the Facebook Solar group (solarpoweredgranddesignrv) Nickolas did an install on a 22MLE in July 2020.
He has some photos an his diagram.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2282...earch/?q=22MLE

[BillM321]

Has anybody ever replaced the factory installed 30amp self-resetting circuit breaker (item #1 in my original picture above) with something like this? It looks to me like this could be used as a battery disconnect too.

Or should I just leave well enough alone and continue to use the factory installed breaker?



Thanks,

Billm321