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Tire Linc Prep Wiring

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  • Tire Linc Prep Wiring

    All,

    Brand new 2021 Imagine 2400BH. Came “prepped” with Lippert Tire Linc. I am getting no power to the receiver dock for the repeater module. It is located in the driver side of the pass through on the front wall. I’ve taken a multi-meter to the leads on the back of the dock, and I’m getting nothing.

    Lippert customer service can’t help because they say it’s a problem with the wiring from GD. GD won’t help, they just tell me I have to take it to my dealer. I have zero time to cart it the 30 miles back to my dealer, and wait for them to find the time to fix it.

    I’m trying to figure this out before a mobile tech comes on Friday and I have to pay a $100 service fee.

    Where is the 15A fuse for this component? Any suggestions on getting the front wall off without completely destroying it? Any other suggestions to fix this thing?

    Thanks.

  • #2
    Originally posted by AddingToTheMap View Post
    All,

    Brand new 2021 Imagine 2400BH. Came “prepped” with Lippert Tire Linc. I am getting no power to the receiver dock for the repeater module. It is located in the driver side of the pass through on the front wall. I’ve taken a multi-meter to the leads on the back of the dock, and I’m getting nothing.

    Lippert customer service can’t help because they say it’s a problem with the wiring from GD. GD won’t help, they just tell me I have to take it to my dealer. I have zero time to cart it the 30 miles back to my dealer, and wait for them to find the time to fix it.

    I’m trying to figure this out before a mobile tech comes on Friday and I have to pay a $100 service fee.

    Where is the 15A fuse for this component? Any suggestions on getting the front wall off without completely destroying it? Any other suggestions to fix this thing?

    Thanks.
    Underneath the front tongue (trace the positive wire from the battery backwards) you'll find at least one 30A self-resetting breaker mounted to the frame. It will look like the example below (but may be mounted in a keeper frame)

    Click image for larger version

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    Take a picture of the wires going to this breaker (or breakers) and look for any loose wires around this area. (If you find a loose wire it could be for the solar, so don't make any assumptions!)

    We should be able to figure this out if you'll post the pics. While I think I can visualize it, a pic of the Tire Linc mount will help, too.

    Howard

    P.S. When you get a moment, there's a Welcome Letter to New Members that I hope you find useful and informative.

    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

    Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Howard.

      I went out to get some pics, sorry the quality isn’t great, I’m working through a back injury that is making things difficult. Anyway, here we go. I’ve found no loose wires anywhere so far.

      Comment


      • #4
        You have already started in the right place by pulling it off.

        I suggest checking hot to frame not the ground in the Link. Reason is it could be a bad ground.
        Second, try checking those 2 big bulky plastic connector to see if the wires going to them have power and ground. I have seen several instances where they forget to strip the wires, or it does not pierce the insulation fully providing the necessary power.

        See if you can figure out where those power and ground wires lead to if possible. I know working with an injury will complicate the process.
        Tow Vehicle: 2018 GMC K2500 Denali Diesel
        Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by AddingToTheMap View Post
          Thanks Howard.

          I went out to get some pics, sorry the quality isn’t great, I’m working through a back injury that is making things difficult. Anyway, here we go. I’ve found no loose wires anywhere so far.
          Rats. I was hoping there'd be an unaccounted-for wire but there's not.

          Click image for larger version

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          Jlawles2 's advice is sound. Is there power on the red wires going to the junctions?

          Note: If there is 12v on those wires it would be very easy to "let the smoke out". If you're unfamiliar with working around 12vDC consider disconnecting the negative side of the battery before removing/messing with wires.
          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

          Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

          Comment


          • #6
            AddingToTheMap looked at the picture again and that is a lever style wire nut made by WAGO model number 221. I suspect that the wiring for the link base was improperly inserted or not stripped back far enough to allow for contact.

            Click image for larger version

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            Last edited by Jlawles2; 02-23-2021, 10:02 PM. Reason: picture did not upload
            Tow Vehicle: 2018 GMC K2500 Denali Diesel
            Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021

            Comment


            • #7
              So here’s what I know:
              1. The dock works. I installed an in-line 15A fuse like GD was supposed to do but didn’t. I then hooked the unit straight to the battery posts. The repeater worked like that.
              2. The black/red and red wires at the little orange lever connectors have no power. I stripped the wires up a little to make sure they had good connection. Still nothing.
              3. Behind the front wall, one of the black/red and red wires goes toward the front of the trailer, I assume toward the battery. The other black/red and red wires goes back toward the solar prep. I’ve attached a pic of the solar prep. From there, a red and a black wire goes back toward the back of the coach.
              Shouldn’t the red/black and red wire be connected at the area of the solar prep to complete the circuit? Or does it not matter since the black/red and red aren’t getting any power anyway?

              Comment


              • #8
                AddingToTheMap If you were to connect the red and red/BL wires you would create a direct short letting the smoke pixies out.

                Have you tried to go between the red wire and the frame to see if there is power there? If not, then try the red/BL to frame? Have you tried to OHM (battery disconnected) between the battery + cable and the solid red and then batt + cable and the frame? One of those should be the battery positive and the other ground or batt - cable. Looking at the circuit breaker it appears that the solid red is batt +. If you find power in the red wire by going to frame, then the red/bl is not making contact to the frame.

                We need to figure out if its one or both of the cables that are not making contact along the route.

                On that circuit breaker, is that the only one? Both my TT and my current 5er have 2. Neither was very far from the other.
                Tow Vehicle: 2018 GMC K2500 Denali Diesel
                Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021

                Comment


                • #9
                  GDRV-Brittany -- can you get us information on where power comes from for the Tire Linc Prep on AddingToTheMap 's 2400BH and how it is supposed to be wired / powered? He's getting nothing on the wires. His VIN is in his profile.

                  Full story is contained in this thread...

                  Thank you!

                  Howard
                  Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                  Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jlawles2 View Post
                    AddingToTheMap If you were to connect the red and red/BL wires you would create a direct short letting the smoke pixies out.

                    Have you tried to go between the red wire and the frame to see if there is power there? If not, then try the red/BL to frame? Have you tried to OHM (battery disconnected) between the battery + cable and the solid red and then batt + cable and the frame? One of those should be the battery positive and the other ground or batt - cable. Looking at the circuit breaker it appears that the solid red is batt +. If you find power in the red wire by going to frame, then the red/bl is not making contact to the frame.

                    We need to figure out if its one or both of the cables that are not making contact along the route.

                    On that circuit breaker, is that the only one? Both my TT and my current 5er have 2. Neither was very far from the other.
                    I’ll be honest, I can turn a wrench or swing a hammer, but when it comes to electrical, I’m firing on all cylinders just to figure out what I have so far.....you may as well be speaking Chinese lol... At this rate I’m more inclined to see if the mobile tech can figure it out because I don’t want to be the one to fry my coach.

                    It just seems this should be an easier fix. Red to red, black to black, that kind of thing.

                    To answer your last question, yes, that appears to be the only auto circuit breaker. There’s not another one mounted under the coach.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      AddingToTheMap, I've been around electrical all my life (dad worked for power company) and done mechanic work for about 40 years (about 80% of my life so far). Electricity can be quite frustrating as you cannot SEE it. Trust me you are doing just fine. When in doubt, unplug the unit, and pull the negative battery cable. This will save your multi meter. As long as you are willing and able to test a few things, you will find the problem, and when you do it will amaze you how simple the fix will be.

                      Have you checked those 2 plugs that the link is attached to for power and ground? Again did you check red to the frame or battery - directly? If there is no power into the red wire there, we need to figure out where ti goes and where it is supposed to be getting its power from.

                      Going on general wiring here not anything specific to your unit as each unit in the same model may have differences. Where possible post picture as it will help in trying to spot little things that could be causing issues.

                      Let's start at the battery, it may take a little time, but be patient as the more you explore the more you will know later should you have a major issue. Trace all wires from the battery to the branch (breaker, etc) or termination (like the frame) then from the branches to wherever you can (wires may go into places you cannot follow, this is OK for now). This will help you find if there is a second breaker and if there are any loose or non attached items. Once you know where everything visible goes, next comes the leap of faith part and may require a un hooking a few things to aid in tracing and labeling. From the breaker the wires should lead to the fuse panel / converter, the break away switch, Jacks, etc. Label them as you go. You may need a piece of wire to help trace circuits by using the multimeter in either OHM or continuity setting. The extra length of wire attached to either end will allow you to get the 2 ends close enough together to check continuity. You may need to spend a few minutes with your multi meter and get familiar with a few of the settings.
                      Tow Vehicle: 2018 GMC K2500 Denali Diesel
                      Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by howson View Post
                        GDRV-Brittany -- can you get us information on where power comes from for the Tire Linc Prep on AddingToTheMap 's 2400BH and how it is supposed to be wired / powered? He's getting nothing on the wires. His VIN is in his profile.

                        Full story is contained in this thread...

                        Thank you!

                        Howard
                        AddingToTheMap If you’re not able to take it to a dealer, then I would recommend keeping your mobile service appointment; have them look further into the issue with this possibly being an electrical issue. If you can, please update me when you have someone look at it and determine the issue. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thank you!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by GDRV-Brittany View Post

                          AddingToTheMap If you’re not able to take it to a dealer, then I would recommend keeping your mobile service appointment; have them look further into the issue with this possibly being an electrical issue. If you can, please update me when you have someone look at it and determine the issue. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thank you!
                          $230 later, I have my answer.

                          As I mentioned previously, the factory Solar prep comes behind a little plastic box with two wires (4 ends, positive and negative for each) capped off. These wires have to be connected together to send power to the Tire Linc prep. The mobile tech put them together and was gone in 20 minutes.

                          GD needs to make sure this isn’t a problem in other coaches coming off the line. They also need to be putting a 15A fuse in line with the power like Lippert requires in their installation instructions. Pics added for anybody who runs into this problem in the future. I’m glad to have the TPMS working, it’s an excellent product (thanks Lippert) but I’m not happy with GD customer support via telephone. I’ll be sending in the invoice for warranty soon. Too bad I’m still out $100 for some wire nuts.

                          Thanks especially to Howard and JLawles, we almost had it, were I just a little more confident in the voodoo of electrical lol

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I would seriously consider replacing those twist wire nuts with crimp connectors. At least tape them so the nuts can't back off (bad things flash before my eyes).
                            Tow Vehicle: 2018 GMC K2500 Denali Diesel
                            Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by AddingToTheMap View Post

                              $230 later, I have my answer.

                              As I mentioned previously, the factory Solar prep comes behind a little plastic box with two wires (4 ends, positive and negative for each) capped off. These wires have to be connected together to send power to the Tire Linc prep. The mobile tech put them together and was gone in 20 minutes.

                              GD needs to make sure this isn’t a problem in other coaches coming off the line. They also need to be putting a 15A fuse in line with the power like Lippert requires in their installation instructions. Pics added for anybody who runs into this problem in the future. I’m glad to have the TPMS working, it’s an excellent product (thanks Lippert) but I’m not happy with GD customer support via telephone. I’ll be sending in the invoice for warranty soon. Too bad I’m still out $100 for some wire nuts.

                              Thanks especially to Howard and JLawles, we almost had it, were I just a little more confident in the voodoo of electrical lol
                              Thank you for the update on this post. I would recommend being in touch with customer service about the repair. I will pass this information along to our product and plant manager so they are aware. Thank you.

                              Comment

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