Fosmon Wireless Remote Control Outlet (mini-review)

[howson]

BOTTOM LINE UP FRONT
IMO not the best for an RV. Keep looking for a wireless remote.

WHY A WIRELESS REMOTE?
The residential refrigerator I installed does not have it's own on/off switch. The circuit the refrigerator is on consists of almost all of the outlets in the living area, thus when home (and the frig is off) I don't have access to all the other outlets as I'm working in the camper. I was hoping this remote wireless would be a quick-and-easy solution to turning the refrigerator on and off.

WHAT'S WRONG
1) When the device loses power it also loses it's programming to the remote, so no control of the device when power is reapplied without programming again. (Not hard...but keep reading.)

2) The default state when the device loses power is OFF, not the last state. That's problematic (if the frig was on, I want it to stay on should the power cycle for any reason).

3) When power is reapplied it starts searching for the remote, but only for about a minute. After that the only way to get the remote linked (and control the outlet) is to power cycle the device.


https://www.fosmon.com/15a-indoor-ou...control-outlet

[trkester]

Guessing you won't find a wireless that defaults to on for safety reasons.

Is there a space on the side wall where the fridge slides in to install a wall switch? I know on mine, there is the thin wood panel along the side of the fridge but the face frame is a little wider meaning there is most likely some space between the side panel and the actual fridge. Might be enough for a switch.

You could fabricate something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-TBL03.../dp/B00A807596 of perhaps find one that is not a dimmer and higher wattage. Easy enough to just make one though. You just need a place to put in some kind of switch and run the wire back to an outlet box behind the fridge.

[Jlawles2]

howson Don't know how much room you have, but I put one of these on the garbage disposal before our remodel: https://www.amazon.com/Garbage-Dispo...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

The small air line is much easier to route than wiring of the appropriate size to carry the amperage needed. Switch is mechanical so it retains last state.

Option: https://www.amazon.com/BindMaster-Gr...NsaWNrPXRydWU= if you don't mind walking out side to flip it on and off.

[howson]

Jlawles2
What I should have done is wire in the refrigerator outlet to it's own breaker and add a on/off switch. I've got the converter breaker that's free--just have to run the wire and add an of/off switch. (I didn't realize even consider that the refrigerator won't have it's own of/off switch). I was hoping the remote would be a quick-n-easy fix...no dice.

Thanks for the ideas!

Howard

[tortuga]

that device looks like a problem looking for a place to happen. keep your money in your wallet.

[Jlawles2]

tortuga which product?

[tortuga]

the remote power switch (plug in device).

[Jlawles2]

tortuga its a great idea, it just needs a last state memory. Unfortunately hindsight is always 20/20. While Howard is doing the testing and upgrades to his system, he needs a simple method to flip the ref on and off. However in this case, when the plug looses power, it forgets the remote (not a good thing) and it defaults to off.

Howard, I guess you could have gone with a remote operated relay. i think they have a 120v model with last state memory.

If you have a stable 12v power supply, you could go with a 12v coiled relay on 120v contacts. that way as long as you don't loose 12v it maintains state.

[Guest]

Howard,

Not sure if your running wifi in your rig but if you are there is Z Wave. A Z Wave outlet can be controlled remotely with a smart phone or via Alexa.

Jim

[gbkims]

Howard,

I guess this would be a bit much, a Z-wave hub + Z-wave switch.
I power the hub from a USB outlet
Phone app and remote internet access.

Zooz ZEN15 has power recovery settings


This is the HS3 layout for my RV's dehumidifier: (HS4 the current version)


HomeSeer HomeTroller Pi - the usual save 10% sub to newsletter.
Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch ZEN15

[Jlawles2]

howson I got to thinking about how one of my wireless hunting light setups worked. Basically the 12V relay system is built on the Bosch relay setup. Coil is 12v, but contacts are isolated from coil completely. So something like this if you look at the wiring diagram https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Wirel...7551826&sr=8-1 they pull power from the relay to the COM in the relay. You could replace the 12v power (note relay is rated for 125VAC) com jumper with the hot wire in the circuit, use the NC side of the relay (fail on if the event of 12v loss) and have a controlled setup. You could put all of this in a plastic junction box using an appliance chord and a 12VDC connector so it becomes portable if needed since the 12VDC does not need to be coach power. Use the RC industry Deans connector and you could make a completely portable setup by using https://www.amazon.com/Youme-Power-H...NsaWNrPXRydWU=. You may find other plugs on the LIPO batteries like and XT60 if you already have an RC Charger setup.

[howson]

Jlawles2 ,
The original 12v for the Dometic refrigerator is capped off behind the refrigerator, so all the components are there for the proposed setup in your post. However...as I geek out over all the cool suggestions from you, Jim ( Guest ) and Gene ( gbkims ) I could easily forget the original goal: shut off the refrigerator (at home) so I can use the other outlets in the living area as needed.

A remote 120v switch to one side of an outlet will work just fine and be (relatively) easy to implement and inexpensive.

Picture below (substitute the lamp for the refrigerator in my scenario) is from https://ask-the-electrician.com/swit...g-diagram.html

[Guest]

howson I got to thinking about how one of my wireless hunting light setups worked. Basically the 12V relay system is built on the Bosch relay setup. Coil is 12v, but contacts are isolated from coil completely. So something like this if you look at the wiring diagram https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Wirel...7551826&sr=8-1 they pull power from the relay to the COM in the relay. You could replace the 12v power (note relay is rated for 125VAC) com jumper with the hot wire in the circuit, use the NC side of the relay (fail on if the event of 12v loss) and have a controlled setup. You could put all of this in a plastic junction box using an appliance chord and a 12VDC connector so it becomes portable if needed since the 12VDC does not need to be coach power. Use the RC industry Deans connector and you could make a completely portable setup by using https://www.amazon.com/Youme-Power-H...NsaWNrPXRydWU=. You may find other plugs on the LIPO batteries like and XT60 if you already have an RC Charger setup.

You mention RC. I've ran cars and boats and finally settled on planes. Do you fly? I used to hunt quite a bit years ago but punch holes in paper mostly these days and am getting into long range.

Send me a PM and we can chat.

Jim

[Jlawles2]

howson If it's like my refer, the plug is a single hole only. You would need to do a hot leg switch which is relatively easy to do, you could even put the switch in the wall next to the refer. I though you wanted an easy way to kill power to the refer while working on the solar setup or something. With the NC side of the relay the way its setup, in the event of a 12v source failure, the relay would default to powering the plug.
Guest I punch holes in paper and mostly wild pork (those funny white tail things are skittish where I hunt). I was into the FPV drone thing a little but have not got to fly much in the past 2 years due to family and virus crap. Want to get into helicopters and planes a little but just don't seem to have the time right now. Will send you a PM.