Multiplus install - dc configuration and rpi

[bsktcas1]

I have a couple of questions about an install of a Multiplus II 120 x 2 on my 286bh fifth wheel.



Factory configuration

- 50 amp AC input wired to AC half of distribution panel.

- Converter plugged into the AC distribution panel, with DC being fed out to the DC side of the distribution panel.

-DC coming out of the panel, fed to the cut-off switch in the front bay and then to the DC bus bar where jacks, breaks, detectors, etc. are connected.

-Battery cables connect to this DC bus bar.




Proposed configuration

-Wire 50 amp AC input to feed Multiplus II 120 x 2. Multiplus Line 1 out to AC distribution panel.

-Disconnect converter from AC and DC sides of distribution panel.

-Battery bank negative leg through smart shunt and ground to Lynx distributor. Fuse and on/off switch to positive leg of distributor.

-Lynx distributor connects to Multiplus, MPPT, and factory DC bus bar where battery cables were originally connected.


I’ve followed other installs and have seen discussions of the DC bus bar configuration. Can I replace the original battery cable connections to the bus bar with a connection to the Lynx distributor, or should I be concerned with some additional configuration here?


I’m considering the raspberry pi for monitoring. Do I need to purchase a ve.can version of MPPT or are all of them compatible?

Thanks,
Joe

[steve&renee]

I have a couple of questions about an install of a Multiplus II 120 x 2 on my 286bh fifth wheel.



...

Proposed configuration

-Wire 50 amp AC input to feed Multiplus II 120 x 2. Multiplus Line 1 out to AC distribution panel.

-Disconnect converter from AC and DC sides of distribution panel.

-Battery bank negative leg through smart shunt and ground to Lynx distributor. Fuse and on/off switch to positive leg of distributor.

-Lynx distributor connects to Multiplus, MPPT, and factory DC bus bar where battery cables were originally connected.

...

At some point, could you post a *diagram* of you proposed configuration. And -- sorry -- what is a Lynx distributor and its purpose?

Thanks.

-Steve

[bsktcas1]

The Lynx distributor is a higher capacity bus bar system from Victron. Before I did the math, I thought the standard set of bus bars, rated at 250 amps would not be enough, since it was recommended to fuse the wire at 400 amps.
I have a hand drawn diagram that I'll post once I make it a little more legible.
Thanks

[howson]

I’ve followed other installs and have seen discussions of the DC bus bar configuration. Can I replace the original battery cable connections to the bus bar with a connection to the Lynx distributor, or should I be concerned with some additional configuration here?

I recommend you do not change the OEM bus bar wiring configuration.

To power the trailer's OEM DC circuits, substitute (replace) the red wire that went from the factory battery location with a wire from the output of the Distributor. You'll have to replace the original negative battery cable, too, obviously with one that returns to the battery bank.

Hook up the wires from the distributor in the exact same location from where you remove the original wires and everything will work like it did originally. Think of the Distributor as a "new battery" and hopefully you'll understand.

[bsktcas1]

Think of the Distributor as a "new battery" and hopefully you'll understand.

Yes, makes complete sense. This was my original thinking, but was looking for a sanity check before jumping in.
Thanks again

[Yoda]

Thanks, Joe

Good morning Joe

While my system is only 30A I am removing the shore power from the distribution panel main and running it to the MultiPlus L! and taking L2 (power out) back to the distribution panel main. I am not using the L3 out that the MultiPlus has. I am disconnecting the factory converter and leaving it in place. In a worst case if the MultiPlus fails it will be just a short task to restore factory wiring.

I am also leaving the factory buss bar and disconnect switch as is, including the stock disconnect switch. No need to change what is working. The 6awg is good for the run to the disconnect switch and run to the distribution panel that the factory put in (right at the limit though). Besides to change it out would requiring dropping the coroplast (belly fabric). I am adding a true second disconnect switch though.

BTW I am not an expert in any way. Just passing on the advice given to me over the year of planning this install and from the vast wealth of information that can be found here.

Hope this helps.
Keith

On edit.
Got looking at your picture.
In my trailer the far left 6awg red wire is from the battery. The red wire below tied to the first circuit breaker runs down and across and up to my factory disconnect switch. There is a 6 awg black wire from the disconnect switch that follows the same route back and ties in to the buss bar on the far right (isolated from main power feed), The second black 6awg wire there runs down and forward to the distribution panel. Last the white wire with red stripe on the right that joins the same connection, comes from my factory solar plug on the front of my 5th wheel. I don't understated the need for the second breaker as that wire is fused at the plug. I don't use the front plug so I am disconnecting that wire and rolling it up and storing it by the solar plug in a space I found there behind the framing right where the plug is.

[bsktcas1]

I am disconnecting the factory converter and leaving it in place. In a worst case if the MultiPlus fails it will be just a short task to restore factory wiring.

Thanks Keith!
Your comments made me think I'll probably just disconnect the AC plug from the converter and leave the DC cabling hooked up. This way, I can just plug the AC in again and not have to re-connect the DC in case I have to go back to factory. I too have no electrical background, but I don't see how this could cause an issue.

I appreciate the interpretation of the bus bar. Every little bit helps getting a better understanding of the coach works!

[bellis]

Joe:

I will echo what some of the others have said.

I would disconnect the factory WFCO. One alteration: I would run AC to an EMS (surge protection) and then into the Multiplus. I would also leave the factory battery switch in place (I did) as a camper on and off. It will give you more control over what is on and off. Then install a master battery switch. You will just have to run from your lynx distribution bus to the back of the factory battery switch. I did not go with the lynx....I wish I had.

While my rig is only 30 amp like Yoda - I have posted a ton as I went through the project. You can find it here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...estions/page11 I hope that helps you. I have diagrams there; howson and others have posted diagrams...pics and more.

Feel free to mention me or quote me on your thread if I can answer any questions you have.

[openrangeowners]

We have
been monitoring our Victron system using a RPI running Venus OS. Pretty much plug and play - we use VE bus to USB cables for the solar charge controller and battery monitor. We use a MK3 to USB cable for the inverter. Works great and can remotely monitor using the Victron connect app. RPI connects to WiFi/internet.

[howson]

openrangeowners -- I've got to get one of those Raspberry Pi's (the "RPI" being referenced) and play with this! Yes, I've got a CCGX but it would still be fun to see if I can get it to work, too.

[bellis]

We have
been monitoring our Victron system using a RPI running Venus OS. Pretty much plug and play - we use VE bus to USB cables for the solar charge controller and battery monitor. We use a MK3 to USB cable for the inverter. Works great and can remotely monitor using the Victron connect app. RPI connects to WiFi/internet.

Can you link what your purchased for the RPI?

Which model 4B? 3B? How is it connected to your devices? Does it work with Cerbo and/or CCGX or does it tie up the connections that would go to the CCGX/Cerbo?

Are you using the touch display with a case that works with it?
https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-.../dp/B0153R2A9I

I have a spare 3B sitting around atm....and am building a 4B atm for a camper related project....

Would love to see some more details....flashing the Venus OS should be easy enough....just curious how well it works.

[openrangeowners]

I am currently using a Raspberry PI 3B+

I am running it headless (meaning I no longer am using the display shown in the photos) - running headless means I just log into the Victron Portal from a computer or my cell phone. I get the same display as shown above ...

https://github.com/victronenergy/ven...ll-venus-image


https://youtu.be/50V50lISnC8


https://youtu.be/UXskvldEmiw


Personally, I downloaded the image, used Etcher to burn it to a micro-sd card, inserted card in PI (with a monitor and keyboard connected in my house). Connected it to my WiFi, logged into my Victron account and entered the Portal information of the headless RPI I just set up.

I enabled SSH on the pi as shown in the videos (generated a certificate for the pi and used an SSH application on my iPhone).

For WiFi, the camper was able to use my home WiFi, so I connected the pi to my Winegard Gateway WiFi and connected that WiFi to my house (can use the Winegard app to change this to my Jetpack) - this allows the pi to always have the same WiFi connection (ie: my Winegard).

Worked perfectly boondocking this past weekend.

I installed a USB connection to power the pi.

As for Venus OS, just plug the USB connections in to it (from the MK3 - multiplus, the VE.bus - Victron BMS, and the other VE.bus - Victron Solar Charge Controller). Everything was found automatically and worked perfectly.

[bellis]

Can you link what your purchased for the RPI?

Which model 4B? 3B? How is it connected to your devices? Does it work with Cerbo and/or CCGX or does it tie up the connections that would go to the CCGX/Cerbo?

Are you using the touch display with a case that works with it?
https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-.../dp/B0153R2A9I

I have a spare 3B sitting around atm....and am building a 4B atm for a camper related project....

Would love to see some more details....flashing the Venus OS should be easy enough....just curious how well it works.

Well to answer my own question....I don't see how this could work with the Cerbo or CCGX or Venus or Octo at the same time. It would require the inputs from each device via a USB conversion.